Have you guys tried png file type its mathematical map of the pixels can stretch it up and down without distortion

This is the third tutorial I've seen that skips the whole mask thing. It's useless if you don't start with the first step.

best add a note about battery acid and eyes!

should probably spend more time babbling with his family.. but got there in the end

This doesn’t fix the slot. This removes a broken piece of the memory card. All these videos claiming to fix the slot but don’t actually fix the slot. Call it what it is if you want to be helpful.

2:34 🤣🤣🤣

Oooooh my god, you saved me, I actually think that my camara needed something more, thank you very much!!!!!

thankx

Picas and points are common measurements used in print. They used to be the standard but inches (or mm) are becoming the norm.

I'm currently shooting a 503 CW and a CFV 100c !! I love that combination !!

You beautiful, beautiful person, thank you so much!!

I need to print a small image to 1mx2m but struggling with the pixalating

Tis was great, I didnt notice a piece missing but I flipped the camera and tapped it a bit and the piece fell out. Easy fix.

wow all love and kudos to you. couldnt even see that something was jammed but opening the slot, holding the camera with the slot open towards the ground and giving it a gentle nudge did the trick. i couldnt even see anythign falling out, but the SD card slot works again as intended now. cheers

Genius! THANK YOU!!!!!!

Thank you kind sir. Saw the broken piece in the SD slot. Held it upside down, few shakes, few gentle taps and it came out on its own. Have a great day!

What size was the camera sensor on your family photo? How can you arbitrarily use 300 pixels per inch on a small sensor?

Try Topaz Photo AI or Topaz Gigapixel AI to dramatically increase resolution & quality of virtually any photo... You won't be disappointed

If anyone sees this : is this the only two programs that would enlarge like this ? If so totally fine and I'll go get it... but I am curious right now because I wanted to have an image that is 3500x1400 ( approx). need it to be 7550x9806 but to also have the MIN 300 DPI for printing... obviously more is great/fine. And I have no idea because I have typically only dealt with items that dont need to be more than 2500x1500. or whatnot and at that size i get 700+ DPI but I just wasn't sure what programs people are using or if I should go out and get these ones the tried test true ones.. or if there are others.. Thank you!

I am getting back into film after about 12 years of DSLR and like you "spot" was something I'd heard and seen but never looked into. I think it comes down to how much time and patience you have to devote to getting the exposure because you still have composition and timing and lens selection and all the other critical factors to deal with. You can get really into the weeds and OCD with a spot meter it looks like but you can probably get really close with the incident or reflective types too. Metering for 5 different areas in an image is probably something most of us don't have time for, but moving your shadows from zone 5 to 4 or 3 is something most of us do.

when blowing up a picture of lower resolution, play with the contrast and blur effects to make the perception of the image appear clearer. Think more like older photography vs digital

A lot of printers' software does that upsizing automatically.

oops. I forgot and I started shooting right away. ughhhh. I must have missed 3 or so shots at least I reckon.

Excellent explanation with fine illustrations consistent with all other good videos on this subject. I would like to see a video on spot metering with COLOR film.

Try to make tutorials from start im a beginner and i don’t know from that first mask came from

🥱

to start 2:22

Awesome! I had this exact problem on my Pentax K5 and by turning the camera upside down and poking around with a toothpick a small plastic piece fell out and the problem was fixed. In my case though, the card was locked inside the slot so the first part of the solution was fabricating a thin rod with a hook at the tip to slide in and unlock the latch.

I Once saw if you draw image using vectors it can infinite scale regardless image quality maybe I'm wrong

You are just describing the simplest way to apply the zone system as recommended by Ansel Adams in The Negative for small format film: Look for Zone III (well defined shadow), meter it, underexpose that by two stops and let the films latitude take care of the highlights. Works better than most other methods and is only beaten by also measuring contrast and having a second A12-back for another film, that will receive less development to also capture the full range of tones in very contrasty scenes as already mentioned. I understand some will have to read the full explanation to understand the why and how but it's here and put in a nutshell so by far the worst video on spot-metering as someone in the comments put it. 😅

I have a dslr and after trying a new adapter my camera is no longer getting any other memory cards. Maybe the golden thing in camera which reads the card have a problem.Eos 750d.What can i do?

You start with a large image. Then you can reduce the size. So how many pixels or mega pixels do you need to make a large image. The higher the PPI closer you would look at the image. If you print at 35 PPI the image will be pixelated but the image would be much larger and you would look at it from further away. The larger and larger you print the farther and farther you stand back to look at it which requires less resolution. Billboards are 14' by 48' and the DPI to print, 15. Why because you don't look at a billboard from three feet away you look at it from where you are on the road. A 2 megapixel image is all that's needed to create a billboard size image. To learn more follow the link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipnTgoqehMt-hZY

OMG get to the damn point!!!!! geez!

Picas are mostly used in newspapers. 6 picas = 1 inch.

Hello, any tips on how to create posters on my small pc screen and even though it will look very small be sure it will be visible while in a very large format say ( A0 size)

Pica a an older printers term

Who's that hot chick walking ahead of you?

one other 'con' you forgot, the lenses use a proprietary bayonet system for BOTH hoods on the outside, and lens caps/filters on the inside; C's have various diameters, B-38/40/50/60 the CF's are better, as throughout the range ALL are B-60's and you can adapt a B-60 -> 67mm thread, common for Case/B&W/Lee 100*100/100*150 mm square filter systems for use of ND, Polariser and Graduated ND filters, as to darken a blown out sky needs them, as the only alternative is a camera like 205fcc which has 1/2000th max shutter speed,{as its a focal plane camera}, to allow use of the f 22/32 apertures to get the flare\glare under control. One other con, the mirror is BIG and the focal lengths are Tele's in 135 terms, so Mirror up and a cable release are virtually essential to get an in focus and still shot, esp. at speeds below 1/125th say, so a Tripod is ESSENTIAL kit for this format.

the feature I love about Hasselblad V's is they (in the main) are manual cameras, you set aperture and shutter and its all on dials, with a nice feel, and click detents, also the sound, of the baffle and shutter together, iconic, Zeiss glass; Yes, I did say about LF lenses in an earlier comment, but for MF! Zeiss is hard to beat, the format (6x6) and the compression and subject separation, hard to match with other smaller cameras; you understand after the first roll why they where "fashion" and glamour cameras for magasine shoots, and you get an aha moment, thats how it was done!

Carl Zeiss the best lens in hole of photography?... maybe, but consider the Schneider kreuznach and Rodenstok LF lenses, some of the most beautiful images are on them.

nice 'blad' man, fyi if you are into hasselblads, the 205fcc had a spot meter in it (the auto meter), the rest (even the 203CW's) have an average metering, and also if you want a good source for info to send people to; try Fred Newman photography, he has someone else do a tutorial on the BTZS (beyond the zone system), a modern retake on the zone system, and its process for the modern age, you can use it for digital too 🙂, but it shows how to meter using the system, for LF cameras specifically, and esp. for black and white films.

If you think Hasselblad stuff is pricey, get a Leica!

Thank you for this video - but why the stupid, funny voice??? Oh dear...

APPRECIATE THIS INFORMATIVE VIDEO! I'M A VETERAN CAMERA GUY who uses mostly center-weighted or Matrix on my Nikon, but this is a real game changer! Thanks again

Thank you very much!!! That was helpful for me! My 700D's sd slot now works perfectly fine!

Thanks, top of a sd card broke off in my d750 card slot , turned it up side down and smacked it a bit and out fell the piece.

Great! Thank for movie, i have spotmeter f. Bye

Off topic but whatever you made is so🔥🔥🔥🔥

Really interesting video that I came across today! I assume that this spot metre, like most, still metres areas as if they were neutral grey - ie zone V. So, using the Police Car example- you read f5.6 off the side of the car. However, is that a result as if it was zone V? If it was, presumably you would have to dial in, say, two stops of extra exposure to get that "grey" door white - so expose your image at f11. Is that the process you went through or did you keep the f5.6 and adjust your 1/500 second to near 1/125th?

It looks like you are using a Minolta F spot meter. If so all you have to do is find a good shadow area and click the trigger. Click the memory button and then the shadow button. Second you find a good highlight area and click the trigger. Press the memory button and then the highlight button. Then click the average button and it should give you perfect exposure levels for your photograph. Try it and see if I'm right.