Lose the low budget background rock music and it will be golden. Maybe at intro and exit but not during the monologue.

Good job man!

Great video and I will be tackling this on my 04 SX-m outside with a 2 wire setup! I was just wondering how you remove the old sender from the outside? Did you pry off with a screwdriver after removing the 2 bolts? Thanks

Odd question here.. I'm looking to build a short transmission without the tail end on for my model A which I'll make an adapter for a clam shell to run the torque tube on. So I have a T170 from a ford F150 1985 (3+OD) and I want to know if a main shaft from a T176 (from a Jeep J10, CJ7, J20...) will work in the T170 ? thanks

Bro can you reach the oil filter from that opening?

Hey Chris I need help with my motor for my trim on my Volvo penta. Where do I test the positive wire to the battery?

Chris thanks for the video. I bought the same kit a few years back same vendor, but too scared to attempt it. This video helps. My kit had a seal change rod seal yellow not red. What type grease did you use? Also I understand this can be done on the boat without undoing hoses? new subscriber now thanks

Thanks! Your video helped me figure out how the float and metal cage go together, after not noticing before taking it apart!

Where did you get your throttle cables from

Used the same kit. Your video helped me to change the leaking o rings. The one smaller urathane o ring was the hardest to install. Put it all together and no leaks! Thank you.

Hey man, appreciate your effort. But you left a lot of steps out for those of us that are trying to do this the first time...i needed to know where to set the float but you left that out and you showed it at wrong angle

Too less details.. 😢 I can See, some Parts arent used, but thats Not clear which and why

IF you are a saltwater boater, you should remove and maintenance your outdrive every couple years no matter how many hours you have. Saltwater is so hard on them. Great Video

Thank you for taking the time to video the whole assembly learn a lot champ 👍

Thank for this video. What tool did you use to remove the upper stearing swivel shaft ? I can not find any press to remove it.

Hey Chris, my kit didn’t come with a spec sheet. Do you recall the float spec for the 4.3 mercruiser?

I have the similar throttle, after I open and clean and put them back together, my shifter doesn’t able to find N, and it’s very loose when push forward or backwards. Do you think I need a new control box? The reason I open it because boat won’t idle when put on reverse and it took to much force to put it on reverse before. Thanks

Hi, congratulations for the video. What code does the anti-corrosion cable that you insert before the trim sensors have? I can't find it, in the drawing it only shows the cap code. Thanks.

I know it is a Long time you posted the video, but does the remote control have like a throttle tension adjustment? I have the same control, but you need a lot of Force to increase throttle. It could be the cables, but it could also be an adjustment in the control. Any chance it could be the last possibility?

Can someone tell me if my trailer is leaning back would I still be able to attach it to the ball hitch. Just bought a new boat and the boat and trailer are leaning back kind of higher then where the hitch would be

My condenser now is leaking, will use this video to help replace it myself. Mechanic trying to charge like $400

Chris, thank you for the very helpful video. My question is this. My Seloc repair manual for my 2005 Volvo Penta SX-M outdrive states that after installing a new or rebuilt trim cylinder, I should fill it with hydraulic fluid if it wasn't pre-filled PRIOR to the self-bleeding process. However, I haven't seen any video stating that this is necessary. If not...great! If it is, how in the heck to I get fluid into the trim cylinders? The only way that I would guess that it could be done would be to compress the cylinder as much as possible. submerge the two openings for the lines into a container of hydraulic fluid, and pull out the rod to draw the fluid into the cylinder. What is your recommendations?

I used a retention pin like used on the pin for a hitch, only much smaller and they the wire ends push right out of connector

Why does the title say TR6060 but when the video starts it is a T56

I think how you made that outdrive dolly was the best part of the video hahah! Saved yourself hundreds of dollars. Thanks for showing how its done, next summer I'll have to take both of mine off and do the maintenance.

Do yourself a favor and buy a dozen 4"x4" x2' and build a proper stack when moving your boat.

What is that little white L-shaped ruler at the 7:00 mark used for? I found one in the glove box of my new-to-me runabout, and have held onto it just because I figured it was specific to a watercraft or its engine somehow. Thanks

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Would you consider rebuilding my Volvo 280 DP

the reason your y pipe was a little different than the diagram is becuase you actually have a sx-mHP transom, because your motor must be an 8.1. dealing with that now myself

Thanks, this was extremely helpful.

What is the last wave spring you installed called?

What socket size is that tail nut, the one you are removing at 2:11

This isn’t a T56, it’s a tr6060

Late to the party but this video is great. Thanks for keeping it no-nonsense and brief.

Great video, thanks! I was wondering how did you get the broken screw out?

Atwood also sells this updated version.

Great video! Always a good idea that after drilling or enlarging a hole in a fiberglass boat hull to apply a thin coat of 5 min epoxy or polyester resin to seal the bare glass layers. Always better safe than sorry.

Thank you

Hi i will like to buy your old throttle control lever?

This was helpful for me, even if only tangentially. My trim sender on the port side was pegged as up. In my case, it was the Amphenol connector for which the wires corroded off of the sender-side pins you show popping out with the various tools. I wasn't sure what was in the connector, but looking at what you had done and the bridging of the connectors, it seemed to me that this was JUST a connector and not some sort of circuit breaker or fuse holder. I went ahead and just did heat shrink solder connections to just connect the cables together without the Amphenol. It now reads correctly. Yeah, it's not optimal, but I can always cut the connectors and solder a new one in later.

Brother that's so ghetto. 😂😂😂😂

Great video, helped me troubleshoot my issue with ease. Thank You so much!

Hey there it’s 2023.. I’m painting the bottom of my 25 foot day cruise (3000 pound weight); there’s no issue lifting my boat from the bottom with a block like you did with that much weight? Newbie here.. the hill will hold?

This is NOT the easiest or best way to the replace the axle seal. I tried it and couldn't remove the seal with the exact same seal puller. The best way (and the way the Chevrolet shop manual says to do it) is to drive the inner bearing race out with a drift pin and push the seal out (don't forget to drive the race back in). I just put the hub on a couple of 2x4's turned on edge on my garage flood so the seal could fall out. They make a tool for pulling these big seals but it costs over $100.

Chris, where did you ordered?

Do you have a video for the reinstall (specifically the bleeding?)

is that connector for assisted driving ? not fuel injection ? i still trying to figure out if my acadia 09 fwd slt had assisted steering don’t want to buy the wrong rack did the new one you buy have the same connection in that you unplugged? do you have assisted steering ?

Hi Having some issues getting the power valve out of the top part of carb. It is not staked over nothing restricting it just wont come out if the bore. Any ideas. Thanks.