A simple and cheaper way to remove the axle seal from 14 Bolt and similar full floating axle hubs

[@reneramirez8904]

I'm currently in the process of replacing axle seals. Thanks for the information. I did one side and fought with it, now I'll use this technique for the other.

[@09Youba]

I have a Chevy 3500 1993 I hope I can do this on my truck. I haven't taken the hub off yet. Thank you for the video and all of you expertise.

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

Good luck!

[@itsme78932]

I just did this job on my 2008 1 ton dually, what a pain! The huge rotor and hub come off as a unit, weighing probably a total of 60-70lbs. The hub is set back pretty far into the rotor (probably 5-6" deep) so getting to the seal is very difficult. The only way to separate the hub from the rotor is to pound out the wheel studs. Easiest way i found to replace the seal in that situation is to use a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end. I first pilot drill a small hole into the seal, thread the screw into the seal and usually with one or two whacks with the slide hammer the seal pops right out, super effective.

[@ACA332]

Thanks, this was extremely helpful.

[@Reliable1102Intel]

Thanks for the video. I have heard that some chevy owners have had to sleeve the housing as the leak(s) reappeared and it was due to wear on the seal areas. Speedi sleeve and Redi sleeve have been mentioned but havent seen any video demonstrations for the suburban yet.

[@clallred01]

Great hint. Ive done two without this hint and it was rough.

[@youngsjoshua]

Just picked up a 14 bolt for a swap and one of the seals is bad. Thanks for the information.

[@SteveSnowman]

Makes Pure Sense. And yes, it does help.

[@mrcrazyg777]

I changed the seals when i put disk brakes on and i flipped the hub around in the old drum after i popped the wheel studs out and i put a 3/4 open end wrench under the seal rim and hit the other end of the wrench. Popped out on the 2nd hit

[@205_bowties]

Thank you

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

Glad it was helpful!

[@d10dozerman2]

Great idea and very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.

[@nolaw4740]

Thanks for that bit of info, it may come in handy one day. BTW, I'd like to get a set of those wheels for my 07 1/2 GMC Sierra, what wheel are they? Thanks for sharing.

[@aaronbishoff8695]

What is that rear break disc kit?

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

TSM. not sure if they are still around. Here was a writeup i did for it (pre-KZbin channel): www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/1999-k2500-suburban-tsm-disc-brake-change-how-to-with-pics.139117/

[@codymoncrief8478]

About to do this tomorrow. Just stumbled across this coincidentally

[@vinman1029]

What is the torque on the bearing nut?

[@shortbox209]

after seal is out the bearing pulls right out?

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

The inner tapered bearing/race will come out, but you'll need a press/punch to get the outer race out.

[@mark8012]

Nice and simple. Are you using a 1999+ axle that had slip on drums? If you are - what rotors are you using?

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

Yes. It's been a while so my memory is a little rusty, but as I recall, the rotors were off a late 80's GM 3/4 ton truck fronts and the calipers were from a 76 Cadillac Eldorado (to get the E-brake)

[@mark8012]

Chris Bruno thanks for the info - Did you have to machine the back of the hubs? I’ve got the same set of parts and am starting my build with the 78 caliper and an ARB. Just need to get the rotors now.

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

@@mark8012 I used a kit from TSM. Actually the whole write up is here: www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/1999-k2500-suburban-tsm-disc-brake-change-how-to-with-pics.139117/#post-594968

[@jbarrette1189]

Hi Chris, Did I see a disk brake set up on that Full Floater? What kit is that and where did you purchase it? I have been looking for a kit but can only find it for the older 14 bolt full floaters. Thank you.

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

Hi JB, yes. This is from a 99 K2500 suburban with the drum that comes off outside of the hub (can remove the drum without removing the hub). I bought the full kit from TSM: www.tsmmfg.net/ including the Cadillac calipers withbthe ebrake. Unfortunately, I never had good luck with those calipers and found myself ditching the calipers for non-e-brake versions at one point. The rest of the kit was well designed and built, though a little overpriced for what it included.

[@jbarrette1189]

Thank you for the info!

[@MrCstone1]

Can't you take out the outer bearing put the hub back on and thread on 1 hub nut and give her a good pull and out comes bearing and seal? I forget lol

[@fast68chevy]

no the outer bearing only will fit out the inside of the hub. everything comes out the inside back of the hub.

[@SOU6900]

What year is that Suburban?

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

It was a 1999. I have since sold it and moved on to a 2007 2500 Sub.

[@SOU6900]

@@SlideruleRacingProducts Looked like an old Square Body one a bit

[@FranManGarage]

Thought this was going to be a trick.... breaks out a seal remover. LOL

[@SlideruleRacingProducts]

A useful tip/trick should never start with "buy a new tool" - it should be about technique or process. Which is exactly what this is.

[@recompense3score10]

Thanks

[@Catrik]

So basically, how to remove a seal: use a seal puller.

[@victoroneill7924]

This is NOT the easiest or best way to the replace the axle seal. I tried it and couldn't remove the seal with the exact same seal puller. The best way (and the way the Chevrolet shop manual says to do it) is to drive the inner bearing race out with a drift pin and push the seal out (don't forget to drive the race back in). I just put the hub on a couple of 2x4's turned on edge on my garage flood so the seal could fall out. They make a tool for pulling these big seals but it costs over $100.