DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN NEAR A FUEL SOURCE. The electric heat gun, or hair dryer, makes sparks which will easily ignite flammable fuel vapors. If you need to heat the Nylon Tubing to soften it, simply soak the line in hot water.

Bad gaskets

I've used it on 4 vehicles so far. It's more then paid for itself. If it's a one time thing for your own vehicle then yes buy a new line. They even make short lines with new ends you can splice on. But in my case it made more sense to buy the kit to have for multiple repairs. Also this repair takes 5 minutes where replacing a whole line would take a lot longer. So no, I didnt get screwed.

Nice! I'll know who to contact with any questions!

Thank You!

Sounds like it was in rough shape. Hopefully you can get it working again.

I looked into both. M12 would work good also. I went with the m18 because I didnt know how long the testing might take so wanted the bigger battery capacity. But either option will work

I do not have a schematic but explain where most of the wires hook up in the video.

I thought about adding a flasher but didn't see the value in that. If the lights come on when I activate and send power to them for the L and R turn signals I know the lights work. No real need to make them flash to test them. I also thought about adding a 4 pin plug to test those trailers but instead I just use an adapter I already had that goes from 7 to 4.

Howd you hook up your relay to your fuse block, your fuse block to your trailer harness?

It will come in handy for sure!

Not sure the exact connector you are referring to but they should. Most of these fuel line quick connects are the same.

@@Scottthesigncrafter I just got my kit today. It worked well. The only complaint is the squeeze gun is kinda junk and they don't give you very many of the connectors that you would typically use and a bunch of the ones that you wouldn't typically use.

Sorry I was trying to be thorough in the details so pretty much anybody would be able to build one of these to benefit them testing trailers. Thanks for watching.

I do not have any videos with the top off. But it's fairly simple to take the top off. Take the back off by removing the screws. To take the top off you will need to remove the screws and also the fittings for the plumbing. To remove the pump assembly I had to cut the wires and then splice them when I put it back together. When I did this I didn't have high hopes of it getting back in working order so I didn't film it. Start by taking the big plug out on the front, the one with the two small holes in it. I used a big channel locks. That is the tank that the dirty solvent drains into and where it is heated up to vaporize it and send "distilled" cleaner back to the holding tank. This has to be clean to heat up the fluid, mine was filled with sludge I had to clean out. Does the silver plug on the front of yours heat up when you run a cleaning cycle?

Thank You!

Here is a link to the PDF I found online. Thanks www.doverbrakeinc.com/downloads/catelogs/SYSTEM%20ONE%20PARTS%20WASHER.pdf

There are lots of ways to put one of these together, this is just how I chose to do it. I happen to have a bunch of m18 batteries already so my battery was "free". And if it dies I have plenty of backups so don't have to wait for 18650s to charge in the middle of a job. No need to buy any 18650 or other batteries when most guys already have a cordless battery platform in their shop. You would also need to put together a charger for the 18650 batteries, I already have chargers for my m18 batteries. As for the case, this one was just easy and available so I went with it. It's also weatherproof so working outside in the rain or snow isn't an issue.

I've used it on a 32' gooseneck trailer before with the box up front and remote about 10' behind the trailer to see the lights. So I've successfully used it at about 45'. This is with my antenna sealed inside the case. I'm sure you could get better range if needed if you drilled a hole and stuck the antenna outside the case.

Thank you and glad you like it. I was going to build one with the switches like you but decided to take it one step further and go with a remote setup. The remote and the cordless battery for power source make it so much more functional. Thanks and please post pictures of yours when you get it done!

This thing has been a great help with testing trailers. I love it. Post up what you end up making, would love to see what others come up with. Don't forget a bout the 12V power socket I added later but not shown in the video. Lets you hook up a power probe which was a big help in testing.

You're welcome!

I believe there is two heating elements. When I unscrew the larger cap on the front, the one with two holes in for a spanner wrench. you can see what appears to be a heating element on each side of the hole. When it is recycling, after a while you can carefully touch the front cap and feel it is really hot. As in burn your hand hot.

No, It has one that heats the bars in the distillation tank... clean out the sludge with an 18 inch piece of 1/4 inch flat metal stock about an inch wide, as best you can, put a little bend at the tip so you can scrape better. The rods may just be caked with sludge.. scrape out the tank as best you can.. wipe the threads of the opening really good so the cap screws on.. make sure you dont cross thread...

Added links in the description to the parts from amazon. Thanks

There was a bunch of crude in the recycling tank that I used a long screwdriver and water to flush out. Now the machine is working good. Thanks

Scott, Your 3 videos on this machine have been very helpful. I’m a volunteer in the restoration department of the San Diego Air and Space Museum. We have a rented unit just like yours. It hasn’t worked for months and getting a tech to come out has been a problem. My next step will now be to download the manual like you did. Great info Sir

​@Scottthesigncrafter do you have a manual for this machine?

Thank you.