Impressive. Hard to believe so much work and skill for what most people see as just a decoration.

Good vid. Understood completely what this conveys, I'm activating the double boiler now!

Just so great!!!

Thanks Anton!

Wonderful tutorial! For sure make the like and subscribed!

Is there a way to preserve this kind of glue? If there is, can you please specify the ingredients to use and the amount needed as well

Hello Anton! Super interesting process. Is any reason to use pearwood or this can be done with another wood? When I see the color left by logwood on the water I think maybe it can be done with red wine as well...

Excellent video.

Hi Thanks for your video. Don’t you need to check neck stop time to time?

Really Nice thinking , love your process , thanks for sharring amazing work and art beauty

👏

Magic almost! Extremely interisting. Someone commenting on purfling said, it was a "gentle imbrace". I'm only an 80 year old novice, only after observation I think purfling enhances the plate tone,(much like a bass or treble knob). Look at every electronie speaker, and notice the special material that is used to attach the diapraham to the edge? I've only hand-crafted 3 violins, & I set the depth of the channel half the thickness of the plate. Just my small thoughts.

Thank you for sharing

you explained everything. Great. Thank you!

Very interesting. Good work. I’m a maker but never learned this

Hi Anton , very helpful video . Just out of interest, do you use the damping to raise grain before fine sanding on the back and belly as well ? Best wishes Ken

Very relaxing and enjoyable video, thanks Anton!

Great video, what is the name of the tool you use on 13:05? thank you

Lovely. Thanks. I’ll get one perfect one day!!

So what is the break angle of the strings at the bridge?

Perfect. Dear master.gra8

Can you please tell me what kind of glue do you use for gluing? the name of?🙏

I’m an amateur guitarmaker, I had not seen purfling dyed and made before. Thank you for sharing this detailed video. I truly appreciate your skill and knowledge.

Thanks for the video and please make some more if you can.

👏👏👏👏👍👍👍 excelente !!

Anton, What a good, informative and beautiful video. You know and love what you do. Thank You for sharing with us.

hey Anton, I like your ground and varnishes. I would love to see some detailed videos about them.

Very helpful. Many thanks.

what e fantastic explanation!!!!!

Thanks for the video, very informative

Is the tannic properties of the pearwood not high enough to use simpler ebonizing techniques such as soaking in vinegar and steel wool? I assume the wood chips you are using is to impart tannins rather than colour. I’m pretty sure that same wood species is used by sailmakers in the traditional tan-barking process.

Thank you Anton for this video! I also make my own purfling and it is good seeing how you do it differently. The steaming is new for me. Thank you for that tip. I use green pear wood or plum wood and a shooting plane set up. I use poplar veneer for the center. Also, a violin maker friend told me to use yellow glue (aliphatic resin) so it is easier to bend the purfling after it has dried out. I got my dye recipe from the Weisshar book (sp?) and it is fewer steps. Logwood extract and ferrous sulfate and water. No pre- treating needed. I appreciate your attitude towards the little variations that make a violin look beautiful! Thank you again for all the work you put into making this helpful video! All the best, Scott Marckx

I just found your Chanel! Wow- I am making my first violin and this is very helpful! It’s also a very relaxing video to watch- I can’t wait to check out your casein glue video. Cheers from western Canada 🇨🇦

Thanks for this video, is awsome that some people share this work. Very helpful

Before you say it yes i know that you should never use water on any violin repairs or changes, as shrinking will occur but if the timber is allowed to dry out naturally maybe its ok.

Anton why dont you simply drop the timber into a hot water container for a few minutes or a hot bath and pour in boiling water,drop a teaspoon of oil into the mix,There is a 1s time for everything and i jumped in feet 1st. One of my sons has recently bought himself a few Violins and has been taking lessons, for around a year now , But he is an adult, and i have also cracked open an old violin for 1st time ever , sanded it down and removed layers of old varnish ,but it looks brilliant,showing all the grains of the Violin front rear and sides flowing and looking great, i removed the Neck and seperated the peg including all the other bits .As Also being an x carpenter i knew my way arounf different timbers, and never realized the appeal and beauty involved in Violins untill now.Chris from London.u.k.Thanks for your informative video.

I often wondered how this was done as it wasn’t painted on but stumped as to how it would be made as it is very thin or narrow. Thank you for sharing.

Great instruction, am building a violin from a kit ($36 from China, for beginners). This kit is quite good in that the wood is all real and of fair quality.

This a perfect example of a craftsman passing on their knowledge, you make it look so easy, my mission now is to achieve the same on my project. Brilliant video. Can I ask where did you get your knife from or is it homemade?

Is there any undercut of the sides of the dovetail joint to lock the neck into the body? I have a fiddle that the neck came off of. A luthier told me that the sides of the neck joint need to be undercut and not plumb; yet I have never seen any evidence of that in any other publications or videos

Thanks for the very detailed videos. They’re helping me work on a similar project. Are you going to post more?

Thank you for a detailed demonstration in this part. You measured precisely all the points etc, but I fear you could have been more accurate marking out the tilt of the centre line of the neck root though as it seemed it ended up with a little more tilt than maybe intended (0.5mm tilt = 2mm shift at the bottom?). I look forward to seeing the rest of your videos as I need to finish off another violin I had started a few decades ago (I continued to work with instruments, setting up & repairs & refitting necks too). I've prepared the ribs on the form, carved the top of the belly & the scroll & peg box but still need to do the back etc, so getting a refresher with technique (& maybe fresh technique ideas) is very welcome. Thank you.

I understand why you are trying to make your bridge more symmetrical in height, however, the higher the bridge, the smaller (more acute) the angle is of the string passing over the bridge & the greater the force on the belly it would be. Is that considered & factored into your decision to raise the 'treble' side as the A string (on viola) has the highest tension of the four strings? Yes, I know there is a sound post that side taking a lot of the strain under the belly near the bridge whereas the bass side is only supported by the added strength of the bass bar. I see some violins (& violas) where the neck is tilted, being obvious in the tilted angle of the scroll & peg box. To me that is either warping of the neck or careless fitting in the first place.

Very informative, i use the same method for my guitars. Have you tried other kinds of wood beside poplar?

Thank you very much for sharing, can i use any purple vegetable (like beet) instead of using the campeche wood ?

Would the same glue up technique apply to glueing in a cello neck?

Helder en duidelijke instructie. Goed camerawerk. Mooie uitdaging. Ga ik natuurlijk proberen/ doen.

The points are not seen. It seems like more work than others do. You didn't show us how it fit. I wanted to see the fit. It looked like one line was angled and the other was almost straight.

can use maple to make purfling?

Brilliant your a breath of fresh air