I think the indicators better setup are nice. I’d rather have the indicator on the dishing arms though so it told you how off center you were that way and don’t fall off so easy. If I didn’t already have a handful of those 2” stole mhc indicators I’d probably steal them for my lathe as well. I do like the brake rotor one, but my adapter that bolts the indicator to the brake caliper mount more convenient.

@@leafydialupking1 I had to pause at 13:25 and go check mine, if you look behind the arms it's hinging off one bolt so the arms assembly can be rotated side to side by hand 😁 I'll keep the disk rotor gauge as well. I paid $150 AUD for mine

I didn’t realize that titanium based alloy names were different than ferrous alloys with what the numbers means. It was far enough out that our XRF claimed no match but maybe it was some other alloying element that threw it off.

@@leafydialupking1 It's probably just a poor quality grade 5, if i had to guess. If I had to weld it, I would be concerned, but for this application I doubt I would ever know the difference.

Yeah I was sure to have a long distance between the output of the heat gun and any direct surface to prevent that.

@@leafydialupking1 yeap I was using about 2 ft box so it would get hotter

Sad if true, this was new this spring.

I never looked into swapping to Schrader, the needle is fine for me.

Mine only made that knock when the piston was about to be fully unscrewed.

According to restackor it has a lot less of an effect than I would have expected, which is why I just use like water for everything. It’s only a few percent difference and mostly at low speed, so it’s really within the noise of predicting the tune with restackor.

@@leafydialupking1 I think you're right about that. I have one 220mm and a 240mm. I had the oil in the 220mm replaced with Fox 5wt R3 (should be equivalent to 15 cSt), and a slightly thicker oil in the 240mm (about equivalent to 25 cSt). The 220mm became slightly less noisy and a bit smoother on high frequency bumps, and the 240mm became significantly less noisy and definitly smoother on high frequency bumps. High speed compression does not appear to be affected (outside of high frequency small bumps), low speed compression did increase noticably on the 240mm, but much less than I expected.

@snokefilmmedia and it makes sense that it only effects low speed when you think about how the shim valved dampers work. They’re opening a certain amount based on the pressure created by the restriction of the low speed needle valve. The amount they open is dictated by how much flow it takes the make the spring force of the shims equal the force created by the pressure differential. So the higher weight oil really should only have an effect before the shim stack starts to open and the again once the shim stack can’t open further and you start to hit choke flow. This is ignoring any potential effects the viscosity could have on the port walls and on parts of the damper it has to flow through that aren’t part of the valving, like the port to the reservoir or the outer tube in a twin tube damper.

I used to buy from zenni but they didn’t do polarization and tint the last time I bought from them. These glasses are clutch for riding because they’re polarized, and lightly tinted amber so they usable is blazing sun but also at dusk. They make the from the sun into heavy shade parts of the trail way easier to ride than a typical sunglass or clear lens.

Yeah it really sucks. It also kind of sucks that if I just lied at how they broke they’d have given me a new pair without second thought.

I don’t think the name was anything special. Just gotta look for 5200 chainsaw handles on aliexpress.

I still think it’s suspension direct.

@@leafydialupking1 Thank you! This video is awesome. As a guy that has a YT Tues that uses a 10x3.5 shock this is one of the only ones on the market. I’m tempted to pick one up to play with.

They sell these panels. They fit pretty good. Body work looks fine but it was my first time painting a whole car so the paint work leaves something to be desired.

Yes. Worked great

It’s way better than JEEP. And that was the alternative for a happy wife.

It’s really not a bad shock and really doesn’t seem like it was meant to be disposable. If they just sell parts for it, fix the design of the main piston like I ground it, and sell it in standard metric sizes I think they’d sell a lot of them.

Haha, it has, twice (3 times really) now since I said that on video. It ran great last year. My knee has almost healed enough from shattering my tibia in September on this bike that I’m almost ready to hit the park with it again.

I forgot to even measure the size of the eyelet because the included spacers worked fine with my gambler. Besides having to add an extra 3mm shim of each side I’d the top connection for the silly wide connection there in the gambler

That sounds like it working as intended. If you want it to be easier to pull the starter you could put a 58cc cylinder on it if it’s a 52cc, this will reduce the compression ratio. You could also stack an extra base gasket or two under the cylinder.

It’s just a shock filling needle. I got mine on eBay. You cannot service the shock without it.

I did not measure them. Any matching size orings comparable with mineral oil will work. I used redline like water, but that was lighter than what came out probably a 5wt oil would match the original.

Well they aren’t really any better the right way around. And backwards is really only going to affect braking and rolling resistance.

@@leafydialupking1 yeah, rolling resistance and braking, two extremely important factors when designing a tire.

They’re all using mineral based oil, so any fork oil should be ok. I used redline like water, but the factory oil is motorex 5wt, which iirc is the same as sram (fact check me on that).

⁠@@leafydialupking1i’ve got the privilege of looking into a RUX from a factory rider, they’re running 2.5W oil

@@gabriellacrimantimakes sense to me. Unless you’re over 180 the factory rebound valving is too slow, so the lighter oil is probably their solution.

I didn’t even consider trying from the bottom. I took the fender liners out to fluid film it and the filter was staring at me.

For sure. But it’s really easy to wipe out too. As long as you take the fender liner out/partially out. If you just jam your hand around the liner I think you can still do the filter, but no way can you wipe the funnel.

I was shocked. My 3.5eb f150 has a funnel and doesn’t make a mess, but the funnel has never had oil in it, ford just got that one right by accident. This one looks intentional, lol.

Broken how? Did you over tighten it one way or something?

@@leafydialupking1 I just got it like that, without knob and sealed with plastic at minimum compression

That spreadsheet is called restackor there’s a basic free version but the one I was using there was the paid version.

Yes. You could reduce the eye to eye and compressed length by the same amount putting a spacer on the rod inside. You could make a 205x55 shock this way starting with the weird 210x61 size.

It’ll definitely cut faster.