10 years ago I paid $3600 for it new. $3000 sounds good. I don’t even know if they still make this model stove where you could see what they go for these days. I bet a lot more.

@@Timbers25 yeah, they don’t make the model anymore. The newer models are between 6 & 9k. The one they are selling has a soap stone front. But thanks for the info and quick response!

@@jeffp7958 no problem. Soap stone just retains and radiates heat for a long time after the stove burns down. At those new prices I’d buy the Tula for $3000

Cool That will be helpful!

Coyote 1 I bought the spinner and the adapter kit from Tru Turn. Its called an “A style prop hub”. The part numbers you need for the FG-19R3 are the prop hub “TTH-1000-A” and the hub adapter “TT-0716-A”. Expensive but they look gorgeous on the Corsair!

MrSpecter228 I’m not Mattias but if your asking about my Corsair I ended up taking the engine out and putting it into a high wing Stinson. It just wasn’t powerful enough for the Corsair I have. This is a pretty heavy model. Maybe the Top Flite kit is lighter. Make sure you have enough exit cooling out the back of the cowl. These little radial get hot.

@@Timbers25 Sorry I was checking a lot of videos at once and I mistaken. Thank you for the feedback. It seems the TF corsair will get lighter. Did you had any problems with it? (except lack of power) For the cooling I plan to cut the back of the cowling and make scale vents that opens with a micro servo like it was make on the real on to regulate temperature.

MrSpecter228 I ended up buying the new timing ring and intake manifold from Morris Mini Motors. It runs much better now.

Wayne Novotny right where Racine Ave and Loomis Rd (Hwy 36) intersect.

@@Timbers25 I take it the building isn't there anymore??

Wayne Novotny it’s still there it’s the hardware store/liquor store now.

@@Timbers25 Ohhhhh, ok! lol

PeenutButterJelly glad to help!

genhydro I flew it all last Summer and it was lacking power and it kept getting worse. I noticed one cylinder had low compression compared to the other two. When rotating the prop slowly I could hear the #2 cylinder leak air into the exhaust. So I burned out an exhaust valve. I ended up replacing that cylinder along with a new piston, rings and new valves. Now all three cylinders have good compression again. I’m waiting for Warmer weather and the snow to melt so I can run it again to see how much power it has now that all three cylinders work. I think I overheated it by not having good ventilation. I have since fixed that.

@@Timbers25 thanks so much for the reply - lots of talk about design issue with fuel flow to cylinders - uneven heat and potential for damage - now fixed in recent version - licensed from Ray English - maybe you have the older version - cheers - sounds like a new one on the way for me - good luck!

genhydro I haven’t heard of any new version of the FG-19R3. All of those Ray English mods were done to the FG-33R3 and FG-60R3, those are the engines that came out with an update I thought. The same type of updates are available from www.morrisminimotors.com. He sells a new intake and a new timing wheel that fix a lot of the problems with the uneven cylinder temps on the fg-19r3

Its a nice plane I like it. Some of the landing gear parts are cheap, but overall good plane.

Galo Villagomez Phoenix makes it. Its called a Stinson Reliant

Sarah Bourdon hah nice!

GOASTRC Heres a video of me flying it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGWbameNiN2GY9U. I wasn’t impressed too much with the power but It has enough power to fly the plane scale like. Loops and rolls hammerheads cuban 8s, those kinds of aerobatics. Its not powerful enough to climb vertical or to power through anything too demanding, but for a scale plane it has good sound and enough power. I would be very careful with cooling though you are going to want to build a baffle system with plenty of air coming out the back of the cowl. You will want to make sure that its tuned a few clicks rich when flying. Lean out till the engine rpm drops then richen back up the other direction till the rpm drops and find a spot in between but more on the rich side. Remember weight too. The engine is heavier than a single cylinder so maybe practice seeing how its going to affect your plane before you purchase it and find out you need tons of lead in the tail.. my Stinson here actually needed more lead in the nose so it worked out well.

Thx Tim S. About what I expected with tuning and effective cooling being paramount. Same, same with engine cowl and absolutely love radials so no worries. Have taken all components out of box and weighed, added engine weight and i'm in the same flying weight range. Difference is another wing and fuselage like brick BBQ. Plan A is to get engine run in soon, build kit, fly and post results by end of year.

Jos Haas Yes it is. The FG-19R3 doesn’t fit wel under the cowl so I had to purchase a larger cowl and custom paint it. I purchased a larger cowl from Fiberglass Specialities

It’s called the Tula and it’s made by Hearthstone. You can find Hearthstone dealers all over the US. I bought this one in Wisconsin. Installation was easy, just hook it up to a 6” single or double wall pipe that connects up to your triple wall 6” chimney pipe. I like the stove. It will burn for maybe 3-4 hours using Oak or another hard wood. Can’t use too big of pieces or it will overfire. It kicks off a ton of heat, almost too much. Make sure you install it in a large room otherwise you will be at 80F in no time. Thanks. Here’s a link to a store that sells them: chimneysweeponline.com/hstula.htm

Tim S Thank you Had to say again- it’s just amazing

Thomas Bogner well I’m not much of an expert at sizing the engines for the planes. I bought the fg-60r3 because the Topflite P47 was a 55cc plane. The FW190 is also a 55cc plane. Adding 3 pounds difference is a lot, especially when its hanging off the firewall! I didn’t know the two engines had that much difference. Have you checked thr diameter of the engine vs the inside diameter of the cowl? Need to mAke sure the valve covers are going to have room. Have you found anyone in the forums who has tried one or the other? For the siZe of my plane the FG-60R3 has lots of power. I’ve never had any issues with takeoff and everyone comments how fast the plane is. So I’d probably stay with the 60 unless you feel like doing some engineering to shoehorn the 90 in there. It would help if you had the plane built ahead of time. Then you could hang 7lbs off the front and then 4lbs and see where your CG ends up. Maybe your FW190 is incredibly tail heavy and putting the larger engine on would be a benefit them vs adding a pound of lead in the nose.

Lighter is always better.

ballsdead1 Sure thing!! Yes sometimes mine will start on the first flip and sometimes I need to reprime, no big deal. Glad I could help.

Sure thing! I’ve actually had them fire on the first flip but yes most of the time I have to prime twice.

407ForRent I buy it on Amazon.

sml123ism The collector muffler is made by Keleo Creations which is now owned by CH Ignitions. www.ch-ignitions.com/product-category/keleo-rings/ . The remote ignition shutoff module is called a “Opto Kill switch by RCExel”. You can Google and find them at most hobby places online. Ebay has them too!! Heres a link to that: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F361132570801

I just videoed doing the small part and not the door handle. The concept is exactly the same though. I think I mention that in the video.

Ronald Lukowski Open the throttle to full, then take a fuel bulb and hook it up to the vent line and pressurize the tank until you see fuel move up the line to the carb, or if you can't see it you can hear it most of the time. I do this on my FG-19R3 and my FG-60R3 and it works every time. If it still doesn't start you may have your low end needle too lean, or the carb barrel not cracked open far enough.

Thanks for the quick reply what are your high and low needle settings? I Have a 19r3 also.

Ronald Lukowski No problem. I haven't checked and I'm not near the plane right now. All I did was start with the factory needles to what it says in the book. If it won't start keep richening up the low until you can get it to start. Then go to full rpm and adjust till you get the best RPM and go rich again a few clicks. If you go too lean it will die quickly so you will know. Is this your first time running it? You sure you have the plug leads on the right cylinders?

Tim, I'm so glad to hear from you - this is my first Saito 4 stroke. I did break it in some on the bench (after I found out about the cylinder order) but I could choke it with my finger. Now that it's on the plane I can't get at the carb and I'm having a heck of a time getting it to start. I sure appreciate your help!

OK got it to start, but no luck keeping it running. Basically has no power. Seems to not be running on all cylinders . I have ignition wires 1 to 2, 2 to 1 and 3 to 3. #3 head gets very hot other 2 just warm. keep checking the plug connections. seem to be easy to come loose. High speed needle about 1 1/4, low speed 7 1/2. Any suggestions?

Geoffrey Gillen glad to help!

Mattias Lund I couldn't get the plane off the ground last week. I decided to remove the 9oz of lead in the cowl and use the full gas tank as my means of balance. Going to try again soon. I'll post a video if it flys. Yes it does sound good and that is all that matters!

Make it electric rather than yet another underpowered misfiring land crab.

Mattias Lund I did! Broke it in yesterday. Ran 1 liter of 15:1 gas through it at super rich settings. I'm going to put it in a Giant Scale Planes Corsair I bought from a guy who didn't have time to build it. I think its now called a CMP Corsair, and Nitro Planes carries them.

Rick Schaber yah! Little 19cc one to put in this Corsair I'm building

Devidas Patil glad I could help!

Phil Murray glad it worked for you!