Unless you take into account that the filament is going to run out, it could ruin the print if you do that. You’d need a prime tower and at least some amount of consideration. A BL printer would probably handle that a bit better by being able to purge during the switch. Just using filament runout isn’t a perfect solution either. A small commission on a link I don’t even have doesn’t make me tout something that’s “pointless”. It does have a point, it just might not suit you. I think it’s worth at least showing off for people to decide if it can help them.

I do too 😉

AMS and MMU units are amazing <3

It’s very straight forward, the same steps apply to any type of filament. I like Orca slicer specifically for Bambulab printers. It’s basically Bambu Studio with more options, and who doesn’t like more options?

That’s really smart. It would have been cool to see a cutter integrated in as well.

I am an engineer haha, I think I’ve mentioned it a couple times in videos. I’m a practicing electrical engineer. Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. I always try to put the stuff I review to some kind of use rather than just show it. The explanation for “butter pockets” is actually in the description for my channel and I left it as kind of an “Easter egg” which you happen to be the first person to ever ask haha, I’ll paste it here: “so you know how waffles have little holes and when you spread butter on it kinda fills the holes? …. Well those are butter pockets!”. Kind of became a joke with my friend group and it became my discord name and when I started my channel we decided let’s run with it. Helps to explain the logo too

@@ButterPockets It's been a while since I saw one of your videos pop up, so I don't doubt you said you were an engineer a number of times and I just forgot. Glad to hear we are of the same cloth even if we are different fabric (I hope that made sense) as I am an IT Engineer. It's funny - Before asking I looked on your channel using the KZbin app on my Fire Cube, and the description trails off at "You'll see the latest 3D printer, tutorials". It didn't occur to me that it chopped off the rest with no indication it did so or ability to see the rest. Amazon versions of apps like KZbin do have their own quirks, so it's good to know of one more and to check my computer first next time. 🙂 If you are working on an affiliate link, I will hold off on buying one for now as there is no rush with the AMS ability to switch roles (I would rather not waste a slot on an almost finished roll if I can help it though which is why this cheap solution looks good to me).

I think it’s a night and day difference over the MK3. Although for a print farm that could be a different story because the MK3 is slow but it’s reliable. Compared to the X1, uhm, I mean it’s hard for me to really like “compare” them. I use both of them just about every day. If I want to print something *right now* I use the MK4. From clicking “print” to it starting is significantly faster with the MK4 and I know it will print it and complete the print. The X1 tho, I mean I have 2 AMS units and I need that color change ability for stuff I sell. I wish I had an XL and could try that out. I don’t know if I can speak from a print farm perspective but if I was going to start one I definitely wouldn’t do it with bambulab printers. I’m not exactly a “ermagerd Chinese printers blah blah” (I am part Chinese, not sure if I’ve said that publicly) but it is a legit concern for a business. I know there is LAN only mode and maybe if the printers just never touched the internet it would be okay. But have you ever seen what it takes to replace the gantry in an X1? That’s a nightmare. I also really don’t believe the X1 is as well engineered as it seems, there was some really questionable choices in that machine. But, from a hobbyist point of view I’m not sure any of that matters. My friend and I are about to start on our own printer design - that’s the path that makes the most sense for us if we want a farm. So my answer is just “it depends” I guess? I don’t like to think in black and white terms because everything is grey IMO. But I’ve always believe much more in Prusa over BL, even if people call me a “fan boy” over that. Ultimately Prusa seems like a better company, a more reliable printer, easier to work on, etc. But it’s “slower” (not really), smaller, less flashy, etc. Hope that helps? Haha. I feel like a just rambled. The thing is too, that was my answer a year ago and it hasn’t really changed. The market is flooded with new users now because of BL and the general advancements in 3D printing. There’s more off the shelf printers now than ever and people can get into the space so easily. Prusa is always gonna be the Honda/Toyota of the market if you will - ask a car mechanic “what’s the most reliable brand” and they will probably say Honda/Toyota.

@ButterPockets wow, alot of effort in tgat response, I really appreciate it. I think your comments are objective and well informed. Thank you.

You either need to invert it with a “!” On the pin and/or add a “^” (especially on the tap pin) which is a pull up resistor.

@@ButterPockets Thank you. In the meantime I got the end stops and all engines working as they should. In the endstop_pin line I first forgot the reference to 'EBBCan'... So now I'm a bit further along, but I'm stuck at the PROBE_CALIBRATE again. On the GitHub website I read that I had to do it manually, but it's not clear to me how...

@@jefgeraerts3603I’d consult with the voron discord if you get stuck. But the tap GitHub should guide you.

@@ButterPockets Ok. Thank you for the advice

It’s great that they updated it, but I hate that my video is already out of date!

I was never sure about doing the calibration and then tick the flow calibration too. Phew.

I know Cura uses a different set of algorithms because it’s not based on Slic3r, but there’s just no way I move away from Slic3r based programs.

Well funnily enough they just announced an SB2209 USB version like yesterday, which I’ll have to try out soon. Looks like we will be able to pick USB or CAN at some point.

You should rip that can out and make it all over usb

@@williamanthony7224 CAN is much more robust, but that may happen

@@ButterPockets maybe over 2 miles of vehicle cabling with hundreds of device

@@williamanthony7224 there’s no maybe, what you just said is correct. It’s robust and used in the automotive industry. It might be more “difficult” to setup, but it’s a robust and tested method. USB is certainly easier, but that doesn’t always make it “better”. USB is much more susceptible to electrical interference, especially from motors that aren’t so great. This is different than say a computer and CAN is almost certainly the objectively better choice. Although, like I said, I’ll probably go USB just to simplify the eddy wiring.

Eddy USB is just better than the coil version, but it’s personal preference. Coil can’t be used as an end stop and doesn’t have thermal compensation. But if you have an EBB36 it might be more convenient to use the coil version.

Would still need the data communication right? BTT is sending over the SB2209 USB to me soon so that should get me back to 1 cable!

Mmmm okay

I’m so glad you made the original guide, I think BTT themselves might have been lost without it.

@@ButterPockets to this day I still get discord PMs asking for help because of the lack of initial response from BTT. They've improved which is good, but I agree, I think it's because it wasn't a good look for them when they released 🤣

Yeah the contact probing for beacon is very attractive. It’s my understanding BTT is looking to implement that as well. Hopefully they do!

@@ButterPockets rn everyone is trying. But so far, Catograph has a hard time, with Thermal Compesation, so it might take a bit :D

Since an SV08 is very similar to a 2.4 it would probably work well if your bed/plate are compatible. I just don’t know how it would mount to the tool head since I’m not familiar with it. If an Omron TL-05MC2-Z probe fits then Eddy fits, but I’m not familiar at all with Sovol or what probes they use.

Probably won’t be one haha. I built that a month or so before the green one actually.

Simply curious why not mesh the whole bed?

I actually think the BL touch is great, just suggestive 😂

I agree that the surface change throws a bit of a wrench in things. I think BTT is coming out with a nozzle probe version too which should address some of that! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it really helps to provide other opinions and experiences.

@@ButterPockets I still think it's an awesome option. The USB version having the temperature reading and calibration also fixes thermal drift, which I don't think you covered. Would be my choice for a non-contact probe for sure.

I did quickly on the software setup section. I probably should have covered that a little more - it’s worked for me no matter what so the temperature drift compensation is definitely working!

@@ButterPockets Nah as long as you mentioned it I just missed it! Wasn't criticizing either way. Solid video.

Haven’t had any issues with QGL! Hits my variance target within the pass limit.

@@ButterPockets Perfect - Sounds like I know what I'm upgrading to for leveling on my Troodon 2.0 Pro ;) Once again thanks for the vid and thanks for answering the question :)

I've found that beacon has the best docs and contact works super well. Price tag is definitely a buy once cry once.

I’m using Beacon with the new Contact option which allows it to function as a z stop and doesn’t need all of the paper adjustment. It also doesn’t require you to use a particular build of Klipper. Stock Klipper works perfectly with it. I’m running a 75x75 mesh and it’s amazing.

been testing Cartographer "TAP" function and also works great, it's in closed beta.

Beacon always.

Number 6 on the list of features added to Bambu Studio 1.9! wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-1-9-1

I know this is a week late, but double check the 120Ohm terminating resistors on both the M8P and the SB2209.

Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to get it working but had to purchase replacement boards to figure it out. The m8p was bad. Replaced the sb2209 with no change, setup a new m8p and everything works. Attempting to get my m8p replaced but btt and formbot have not been much help so far.

That sucks and I’m sorry to hear it. You’ve reached out to both Formbot and BTT? Which has been more responsive?

They are both responding but ignoring the info I gave them. For example, I told them the 120 ohm resistors were in place and I verified 60 ohms between can high and low and their response was to ask if I had the jumpers in place for the 120 ohm resistors.

That’s incredibly frustrating. If I can help at all add me on discord @butterpockets. I can always try and help! Maybe not with replacement parts tho haha

The address 0x08002000 address is correct because you only need a 2kb offset for katapult. You should not need a 20000 offset.

@@ButterPockets whith address 2000, can device is not detected! My board manta v2

@@borys9549my documentation is for the v1.1 which is stated on the top of the doc.

i am wondering the same. also what is the purpose of turning off the fans?

It really doesn’t matter the number, just whatever old was.