Manual Filament Tuning on Bambu Lab Printers with Orca Slicer!

[@ButterPockets]

Hey guys, instead of this video, go watch my other one! It's more up to date and concise. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3S5oml6rsiIhac

[@berad32000]

just started using Orca last night with my ender 3 (not truly an ender 3 anymore but still) i couldnt for the life of me find where i could edit the machine start g-code. i was using notepad ++ to manually edit in the command for my saved mesh level.... then i clicked on this video just to learn a bit more and BAM right off the bat you open up something i didnt even notice and its right there! Thank you for saving me from editing EVERY print!!

[@DrAlanQuan]

This video is fantastic. I'm working my way through the steps now, and the way the video is structured is extremely easy to follow for a complete novice. Thanks!

[@runbuh]

I'm trying to get my printer dialed in for printing my Voron parts. The closeup views of your tests make this much clearer than most. Thank you!

[@PLr1c3r]

If you're trying to make those near perfect prints, this is the chef's kiss to a well tuned printer. TY Butter!

[@DWIT3D]

Great explanation and use of the Calibration tools in Orca Slicer... one of the best slicers out there in my humble opinion! Gotta go tune my P1P's now LOL. Cheers.

[@ButterPockets]

Thank you!

[@Sevensup]

Honestly didn't know Orca slicer offered this setting...I may look into it. Great video!

[@Crappy.Consumer.Reports]

I am curious what your reasoning is to calibrating the Flow Rate after PA. I do not know enough to have an opinion except that the Orca Slicer Documentation recommends doing the Calibration Tests in order as they appear in the menu, which would mean Flow Rate before PA. Is there a particular reason you do the opposite?

[@ButterPockets]

I follow Ellis’ guide. In my opinion we mostly use EM for top surface and mostly use PA for corners. Although PA also controls the edges of a top surface because the nozzle stops and turns around. I feel like it’s best to tune PA and get your corners right first, then see what your top layer looks like (center and edges) and tune that with EM. Because PA tunes the distribution of material, not the amount of material.

[@packpack758]

Thank you. The amount of extrusion calibration has become easier

[@kylek29]

I originally did the X1 calibration before every print, but like you, I realized you only need to do it once per filament spool -- it's a common suggestion on BambuLab's forums for them to give some form of UI information on what the relevant values it determined are so we could load those into the OrcaSlicer's filament settings. I get they're trying to keep a lot of proprietary info, but it'd really help accelerate what we can do with the LIDAR if they'd provide some form of API for it. There's already a few makers working on their own open-source version of the automated scanning, so it's not like it's going to be exclusive for very long.

[@ButterPockets]

That's awesome to hear! The hardware is there and I saw a video of some guy doing his capstone project (or something with school) doing automated laser scanning PA tuning. The future of 3D printing looks good!

[@lostsauce0]

The absolute smartest thing Bambu could do now that they've enjoyed their year of supremacy, is open stuff up. They don't necessarily even have to open source the firmware, but stuff like allowing you to make your own RFID tags for the AMS and releasing documentation for their custom gcode would go a long way to encouraging people to stay with them.

[@ButterPockets]

@@lostsauce0 it would definitely be awesome if they did that!

[@parkerbrooks]

Perfect video, everyone needs to see this. You’re the man! Thank you for making us this video.

[@parkerbrooks]

could you see this with your eyes or was it much easier with the camera? I feel like all my flow tests look the same besides the extreme ones, the corner looks pretty good from 0 to 15mm, and the I also did the temperature tower which basically looked the same the entire way up lol. Any tips are appreciated, thanks man!

[@danielpreston1878]

Thank you for this. As a new person the the hobby, this information is vastly helpful and will serve to increase my print quality!

[@ButterPockets]

Glad to hear it! Please let me know if you have any questions or want another topic covered. Helps me make more videos for you guys:)

[@TomsPropertyCare]

Any particular order to calibration? Someone mentioned going down the list, temp tower first since everything else depends on it.

[@VTX1029]

Do a video on the VFA calibration

[@mikecrane2782]

I've been using this since the SoftFever fork, and the calibration tools have got better. I tried PA Line mode, but the PA Tower model is much better. My go to slicer was SuperSlicer on my other printers, so using Orca is a no brainer for me. I use the calibration tools for all filament set ups, sometimes change temperatures for different colours, and now disable the auto calibration on my X1 Carbon to save time on start of print. BTW, I'm using the 0.6mm hardened nozzle, and in Bambu Studio the profiles initially weren't that good for me, and using SoftFever/Orca was the best workaround.

[@ButterPockets]

Sounds very similar to my experience. The PA lines were such a "PAin" to get off the sheet. All the little numbers flew all over my office while peeling them off

[@Bennyco86]

Even though I knew all that, was still very good content enjoyed watchig it all. keep it up!

[@arkekklesia]

hey, i just got my p1p and saw this. it worked wonders! thank you!

[@collegestudent6071]

Bambu Studio does save calibration profiles for filaments. Don't know when they implemented that though since I've only had my X1C for 2 weeks.

[@ButterPockets]

It was a few updates after I made this video and I even made a follow up video on it :)

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

But did you do the auto calibration on textured PEI or did you do it on Cool Plate/Engineering Plate?

[@ButterPockets]

When I used auto calibration I would do it on a cool plate/high plate with the filament in the first slot. Then swap the plate over so it's saved for the first slot. That's my understanding of how it works. Although I have tried the auto calibration with the textured plate I have from Honey Badger and it seemed to produce the results I would expect from the auto cal.

[@andii2k8]

Great video! Do you usally print from Orcaslicer or do you only calibrate there and implement the calibration settings into Bambu Studio somehow? Thanks.

[@ButterPockets]

When this video was made you couldn’t even access pressure advance in Bambustudio. Even now though, I typically use Orca if I need a highly tuned profile. If I need a quick print or prototype I’ll use BS and the auto cal.

[@k_DEDb07]

this was super helpful. thank you. is that everything I have to consider when setting up a TPU filament profile? i expected it to be a lot more difficult and time consuming. I want to try a few different TPU brands on my P1S. i haven't been printing very long. I think I'll give Orcaslicer a go. keep getting the impression its a decent option from people on youtube

[@ButterPockets]

It’s very straight forward, the same steps apply to any type of filament. I like Orca slicer specifically for Bambulab printers. It’s basically Bambu Studio with more options, and who doesn’t like more options?

[@santiagoferrer8630]

Really good content! Big thanks for sharing

[@myv6mustang]

Thanks. Used this for my .8MM nozzle.

[@tha_factory_of_fun]

This was super helpful thank you

[@michaelvanscoyk746]

Thanks for the video, if I did this and tuned the filament but dont uncheck the auto calibration would it overwrite my custom values or fine tune them? I just dont seem to trust that its actually using my numbers as the saving of the filament doesnt seem so straight forward.

[@Jacob-pr5cd]

Do the calibration tests work if you have other profiles selected? IE 0.16mm, 0.12mm, etc default Bambu profiles or does it have to be .20mm?

[@ButterPockets]

I would run them all at 0.2 to save time then it should all be valid for those other layer heights.

[@bcaswelch]

Thanks for the vid. When do you do the temp tower? I’ve been doing temp, flow, then pa, I’ll give yours a go

[@ButterPockets]

I personally don't run temp towers. I will run a PLA filament at 215 or an ASA at 250 and depending on what happens just adjust from there. But I find that those median values almost always work what really needs to be adjusted is cooling and layer time. If stringing is a problem or flow rate is a problem temp can help - but drying filament, retractions, and slowing down can help instead. CNC kitchen has some good tests on temp vs strength and that's where I think it plays a bigger role, as well as matte vs shiny finish. But if you're going to do a temp tower Id run that first, then PA, EM, and then potentially PA and EM again in finer steps.

[@firworks]

So from this it seems like there's very liittle benefit to going with the X1C over the P1S if you don't care about the touch screen? You can buy the hardened gears and nozzle for the P1S and likely acheive similar or better results with those simple built in calibration tools in the slicer. I've been really on the fence thinking about buying a P1S but worried that I'm cheaping out and that I should just wait and eventually buy an X1C instead. I also know that the bed doesn't go as hot on the P1S but I think 100C should be good even for PC-CF.

[@ButterPockets]

With the bed being different I’ve seen a lot more people have problems with the P series bed than the X series bed. I don’t know if this is fixed or wasn’t really as big of an issue as it seemed. But I’d be weary about that.

[@briancarrollii9990]

X1C lidar is useful for making sure you have the correct build plate on (it saved me once) and the spaghetti's detection / unslect object while printing helps a lot too.

[@GreyTileGaming]

Solid video, keep up the great content!

[@astrofordummies8157]

How do you keep the Bambu from shaking so bad I can’t complete my temperature test due to shake.

[@ButterPockets]

I have it on a really stable shelf. Go to your local hardware shop and buy a stone paver, should be like 4-10$. You can also get a rubber mat to go under that as well. You could order like a bar mat on Amazon or any other kind of rubber vibration damping material.

[@AnnaVannieuwenhuyse]

I noticed you measured the height from on top of the mouse ear. Is that accounted for in the measurement you read out?

[@ButterPockets]

That's actually a really good point! Since the k value only changes every 1mm then the 0.2mm of the mouse ear shouldn't change which millimeter (or k value) you pick!

[@zpinacz]

Very informative, will definitely try this myself, thank you!

[@Mr.Titanium1911]

Great video! Would you recommend printing the temp tower before or after these two calibrations?

[@ButterPockets]

I don't print them! Usually the default temp ranges are just fine for me and I really only use about 3 brands of filament and every roll of the same type works well with the same temp!

[@caramelzappa]

I highly recommend the Andrew Ellis method for flow tuning over Orca's built in. You can get much more accurate results by testing specific flow %'s. In your own example, the smallest step available for adjustment is a 4% jump! This is HUGE when you consider like you said, most fillaments are between 95-98%. That's only a 3% flow difference for the entire range! You jumped out of that range in one step with the Orca method. I get much more accurate, repeatable results by simply testing 94%, 94.5%, 95%, 95.5%, 96%, etc You also say the PA tower is "better" than the PA line test, but do not qualify this with a reason. I don't find this to be true. I tend to get the same results with either test. The tower takes longer and requires measuring and the simple formula. Its advantage is looking more like a "real" print. The lines test is much faster and gives you your value, but scraping off the lines can be annoying depending on your build plate. It's personal preference, but they both work great. Andrew ellis has the Pattern tool, which takes a bit of setup to adapt your start gcode to, but it is also my prefered method. It prints quickly like the lines test, but gives you "real" corners to judge from. No formula needed and peels off the plate in one single piece easily.

[@ButterPockets]

That's why I linked his site in the description. Do you have a way to make his test work on an X1? I never got it work for me. That's what I use on my Voron, but I stick with the built in one for Orca slicer on my X1. My qualification for why the tower method is "better" is that its easier to remove and give you more intuition for corner sharpness. I should have mentioned in the video, but I would recommend running any of these methods multiple times with finer steps, exactly like Ellis recommends. I've spoken with him on Discord and learned a lot from him, so I totally agree.

[@caramelzappa]

@@ButterPockets Setting up his flow squares in Orca is the same as any other slicer really. You set your flow to 1 in fillament settings and then set what you're testing per object. Objects mode (Make sure advanced is on) and scroll down in the quality tab until you see flow ratio. You can also use orcas calibration tool to generate, and then just go to each individual object and change the flow manually. The printed label wil be wrong, but it will work properly. I'm looking at orca (I was previously on an older version of softfever, when he first introduced his cali tools) and pass 2 is actually more accurate than it used to be. So that's great! But you still don't get 0.5% incriments which I prefer for best results. I think you are totally right that if we just set flow to 1, and then go directly into pass 2 most people will get good results. As for the ellis pattern test it did take a good afternoon to troubleshoot start Gcode that worked for it, but this does work for me: pastebin.com/RYPCSWQi This is for an X1C, not sure if it would work on the P1P but I imagine it would since lidar is not used.

[@ButterPockets]

Thanks a lot of the gcode, I can maybe add something or make a second video for his pattern tool, that's exactly what I've been wanting to use. That's actually what I was referring to for setup, not the flow. I do agree that less than 1% steps would be really nice for pass two, but honestly for *most* cases those 1% changes are fine. It's also my understanding that pass 2 changes by 1% so if your current setting (after running one pass) is 96.8% then you'd be changing 1% from that so it gets pretty dialed! I really like the suggestions and I'm glad you could share

[@caramelzappa]

@@ButterPockets Right on thanks for making the video, we need this kind of info to be more available. Do let me know how that start gcode works for you.

[@ButterPockets]

Will do. I definitely plan to test it after I film my MK4 video and plan to make a video to show everyone. Definitely going to give you credit for the find!

[@mikehagan2783]

Great video! I noticed you don't have all the lines in the front of the build plate. Care to share what you changed in the start gcode?

[@ButterPockets]

That's the automatic calibration, which you should turn off to do this tuning!

[@rayge]

Ok so with this in mind is the x1c any better than the P1p? I have 2 x1c machines so it would be great if I can get spend less lol

[@ButterPockets]

It's up to what you need your printer to do! I know you can print enclosures for the P1, but having a fully enclosed printer from factory might be worth it. Especially for PLA the P1 makes a lot of sense. If you print Nylon, ABS, or other temperature dent I've materials I'd probably learn toward the X1.

[@ivyr336]

Useful video, since there is very little documentation on how to tune with orca.

[@unlock-er]

thanks. I don't follow where you went after you did the fine tuning of getting that -2 and -3. where and how did you use that number into the calculation to fine tune the max flow rate? Thanks

[@ButterPockets]

At 5:48 I have the equation shown. Ratio_old*(100+modifier)/100. So the -2 or -3 would be the “modifier” in that equation. You are essentially multiplying your current flow ratio by .98 or .97 (or 98% and 97%). At 6:02 I show where to enter it in the filament settings.

[@unlock-er]

@@ButterPockets yeah, I did the first one and got +5, so I chucked that into the formula. What I didn't really get is, you then printed pass2 @6:10. how did you set new value into pass2? when I did pass2, it came up with what you've got in the vid, but that's because you got -5 from the first one. Since I chose +5, shouldn't it be 0 to +7 instead? and if yes, how can I set that up? Sorry if I sounded confusing cuz it's because I am.

[@skrie]

I had a great time doing calibration like this and being able to save the values in my Filament profiles thanks to Orca Slicer. The only thing I ran into is... I had this big bag of 3 meter bits of coloured filament to play with. It was the most garbage filament in the world , so I really wanted to run calibration. But guess what. You can't run calibration on a 3 meter bit of filament. Someone needs to make a very very tiny sort of calibration lol.

[@rnaparts]

How often do you run the bed leveling (default is every time)?

[@ButterPockets]

I run it every time I switch build plates. If I keep the same one on there I don't run it.

[@Guardian_Arias]

Bambu also knee caps all filament not from their store. The Bambu printers can handle a volumetric flow of 15mm³ and yet by default anything other than bambu's filaments have a default value of 5mm³ What this mean means is not only is the printer going to print 3 times faster with the correct value, but you might actually get even cleaner prints when the printer is allowed to move based on set speeds.

[@ButterPockets]

I’ve found 19mm3/s works with all the brands I use!

[@Todestelzer]

Never saw 5mm3 as a standard on my X1C for non Bambu filament. Only TPU profile is below 5mm3. And the max flow is around 20-25mm3 with ABS for me.

[@tha_factory_of_fun]

I just installed orca and was attempting to do the pressure advance calibration with Asa, no matter what I do the tower breaks loose on the build plate . Any suggestions?

[@ButterPockets]

Check out my pt2 video and use that method.

[@ShiftKoncepts]

When you send it to print, are you doing auto 'Flow calibration' as well?

[@ButterPockets]

Nope! Doing that will invalidate the results. This is to replace the need for auto calibration!

[@TripasGarage]

Great video!

[@MihaiDesigns]

Cool one!

[@ButterPockets]

Thanks, that means a lot!

[@pierrediedericks5385]

Thanks for the awesome video ! Just a quick question, I completed the PA test and enabled and edited the PA value, busy with the Flow test now, but on the device screen I see the K value remains the same ? Is this normal ?

[@ButterPockets]

I’m actually confused what you mean by device screen?

[@pierrediedericks5385]

@ButterPockets When you are in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer, on the Device ribbon that you are directed to as soon as your print starts.

[@ButterPockets]

@@pierrediedericks5385 that’s what I thought you meant…hmm I don’t see anything about k value there. Feel free to email me (my email is on my channel) I’m interested in this!

[@pierrediedericks5385]

@ButterPockets Will be sending you an email 🙂

[@pierrediedericks5385]

@ButterPockets For some reason i cannot find your email address 🤦

[@StoneCut]

Good video, thanks! What do you think of the method of measuring cube side length?

[@ButterPockets]

Tuning pressure advance and flow ratio in this way is mostly cosmetic, but should result in "good enough" dimensional accuracy. Measuring with calipers can lead to inconsistancies because every layer is going to be a slightly different width due to tolerance stacking from the filament, the extruder gear, the idler, the PID tune, etc. I would recommend if you need more dimensional accuracy use the "shrinkage" variable in the filament settings in orca slicer. Hope that makes sense!

[@StoneCut]

@@ButterPockets Yes, that makes sense. Thank you!

[@crashkg]

Just out of curiousity what is your extrusion multiplier for Atomic vs Prusament for PLA?

[@ButterPockets]

Atomic is around 0.92 and Prusament is more like 0.98. I find Atomic always needs lower multipliers.

[@nicholasherbst9821]

once you do pass 2 on flow rate, whats the formula to use to get new value???

[@IcarusAerial]

I'm new and feel stupid for asking, but whenever you get a filament dialed in with manual settings, does leaving the ' flow calibration' check box checked when you go to print override your manual calibration? Or is it okay to do both?

[@ButterPockets]

It overrides it.

[@boboscurse4130]

I'm trying to print some Sunlu which is currently unusable. I did pass 1 for the flow calibration and -5 is the best. When I do the formula it comes out to .9025. That's not crazy is it?

[@ButterPockets]

Nope not at all

[@jerryy101st]

I just did the PS calibration and overall was good maybe in the button is not super sharp like in the top in this case, do I need to make any adjustment or I just leaved this way???

[@ButterPockets]

You stop when you're satisfied with the results! My next video is going to cover an even more in depth tuning method!

[@BrunenG_YT]

Is it possible to also fine tune input shaping, like pressure advance here?

[@ButterPockets]

Not on a bambulab, but yeah you just run the inputshaper test in klipper and it gives you graphs and max accelerations. This is something I wish we could see for the X/P series

[@boboscurse4130]

How come you didn't do retraction? And if I heard correctly, you said skip Pass 1 and go straight to Pass 2?

[@ButterPockets]

I personally don’t tune retractions with anything other than watching my prints. I’ve never had to change it from defaults on my X1. And yes, pass 1 is mostly unnecessary. There’s no real benefit to seeing +-20/10/5. You might as well just start at 1 or 1.1 and let it go down in 1% steps with pass 2

[@boboscurse4130]

@@ButterPockets Thanks! I just did my flow calibration for Hatchbox PLA and both passes, zero was the one. I love Hatchbox. Now I'm more confident that I'm closer to perfection.

[@mp3llll]

Very good one, thanks ❤️

[@malcolm4k270]

hey trying to tune my neptune 4 pro with orca calibration tab doing the pressure one but it keeps saying line width too small

[@dgtlnative259]

Hi, I think the adjustments after pass 2 are obvious but at this point I just wanted to ask if I am getting it right. If I like e.g. -2 the most in pass 2 and I used 5 in the formula to get the value for flow ratio in the first step, I will do the formula again with 3 (5-2). 0.95*(100+3)/100 = 0.9785. Is that correct?

[@ButterPockets]

It’s just a percent change formula. So it’s (existing value)x(100+value from test)/(100). So if you started with a default profile and chose 5 you first did (0.95*105)/100 and got 0.9975. Then you chose -2 so it would be (0.9975*98)/100=0.97755.

[@oldwelder52]

Great video! Thank you so much for that info. Without the formula isn't .97755 just .9975 minus 2%? It's just quicker and easier for me on a calculator if it is.

[@BikeGuyFPV]

Okay, maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Got an X1C, I've got Orca Slicer, and I'm performing the pressure advance test. Yet, in the preview after I slice it the volumetric flow rate does not change. Also when I click on thr Print plate there us no option to deselect "flow calibration." Am I missing something?

[@ButterPockets]

Feel free to email me with pictures and we can diagnose together. My email is on my page.

[@MrSshagster]

Great vid

[@rawisjericho]

What do are you suppose to do with the DEVICE tab K factor? Once you make a calibrated profile are you also supposed to match the calibrated profile and the K Factor in the AMS and EXT SPOOL slots? Not sure if youre supposed to just leave it at 0.00 once you calibrate a profile.

[@ButterPockets]

I believe if you use the value in Orca it will override whatever is on the AMS slot.

[@rawisjericho]

​@@ButterPockets that seems to be correct. You replied to me on reddit too recommending these videos but I'm still having top layer issues. Is it possible to have filament to have a k factor of 0.005 or 0? When I do lines on my p1s those are the best results. Same with the tower test as its more accurate since I can measure exactly. Driving me nuts. Might just sell my bambu lab.

[@ButterPockets]

@@rawisjericho if 0 is the best something else may be wrong. What’s your extrusion multiplier set to? Message me on discord. My username is “butterpockets”. I would gladly work through it with you

[@rawisjericho]

​@@ButterPocketsI sent you a message on discord!

[@PetraStiegler]

Hey, I followed the video, unfortunately basically nothing changed on my print. When I rerun the pressure test, it looks exactly the same as the first one. Is there something I am missing?

[@ButterPockets]

Re-running the pressure test things should look the same. It's just testing the same values again. Unless you change the range of k values that it tests. Once you've selected the k value and put it into the filament profile settings and you ensure PA is enabled, when you select that filament profile it will use that value. Then, instead of running the auto calibration you'll just be using the already calibrated value. I hope that helps and feel free to email me at the email in my bio and I can help more! Expect to see another video highlighting an even better PA method this weekend.

[@anthonyaviles8665]

Im having issues adjusting the these setting on my bambu labs p1s its giving me issues with it im trying to tune overture pla

[@skyrim4713]

I try this slicer but it started z off set two high.same off set I use for prusa slicer.what ca I resolve this?

[@FilmFactry]

Would Orca and these calibrations work for an ender 3? I have both klipper and duet mainboards. Thanks.

[@ButterPockets]

I would check out the link in the description for Andrew Ellis' site. May be a better solution of using klipper!

[@jdavis2609]

Can you make a detailed video for the temp towers? All mine look the same with the majority of temps using PLA and PLA+

[@ButterPockets]

I really don't ever use temps towers and I really wouldn't suggest using them.

[@RonnieBlaze281]

what did you change in the starting gcode to the purge lines closer in? the default starting gcode my lines are right on the edge.

[@ButterPockets]

Haven't changed any gcode!

[@mehrdadhaghighi5140]

How do you do a temperature test?

[@adamjelinek4111]

Why do you calibrate the pressure advance before flow rate?

[@ButterPockets]

Because most of these are aesthetic tests. When it’s doing the top layer of your flow rate chips PA will effect how it puts down that top layer. If pressure advance isn’t dialed in the line width will change as the tool head speeds up and slows down doing that top layer. So if PA is already dialed in you will be seeing only the effect of flow rate to decide which one looks best. It might take going through them both a couple times - PA,EM,PA,EM - because they effect each other but usually the single pass is OK. Hope that explained it!

[@pkaronis1]

What do you do when you want to fine tune the flow rate the second time to -2 or -3? What is the formula?

[@ButterPockets]

It's the same formula that I showed in the first pass! Take your existing value and the -2 and plug it in!

[@jean-marclaprise7890]

the pressure advance test work for a MK3S+ with Orca Slicer ??

[@ButterPockets]

I wouldn’t think so? I don’t think Prusa has enabled the use of pressure advance in their build of marlin. I could be wrong, but I don’t think you can access that

[@nickjeffrey8050]

And now they have in lastest update on Friday 😊

[@MAXimator70]

awesome vid! subbed!

[@georgedunn7573]

So what is the next step if there is no separation in the seam? What do you change the start and end PA to for the second test?

[@ButterPockets]

There was no separation on any of them or you already found a good value on the first pass? If you found a good value already you can either use that or run the second test any way to make sure! If you aren't seeing any change through the values in the first pass something is up. Check the g code itself for the M900 command.

[@georgedunn7573]

@@ButterPockets no M900 in my code. Did 2 prints with the second print going up to 14K and no separation just more ringing.

[@jakobwest4811]

@@georgedunn7573 if the gcode from the site is not exporting M900 commands at all then the k value won't change. I definitely recommend double checking every single value on the tool because something must have been entered wrong. Did you select the right gcode flavor?

[@lucasvillalta.s]

could you share your start and end code? thanks for the video

[@ButterPockets]

None of that is needed any more. The start gcode is shared in the description but this video is now really out of date because the features I talk about are just built into Orca.

[@tenniselbow74]

great video

[@highspeedengineering1027]

Steps at 3:00... you mention 10mm x 0.02... 10x0.02 = 0.2, not 0.02. What units should we be working with? 10mm = 1cm, therefore 1x0.02=0.02, so should be we using cm opposed to mm?

[@ButterPockets]

You should definitely be using mm because the pattern changes the PA value every milimeter. So you're just checking the 10th step of 0.002 changes, so 10x0.002=0.02. Which you can see me enter 0.02 into the slicer settings.

[@ButterPockets]

You're the second person to mention this and I guess it's my southern accent coming out. I said "the steps are 'point oh oh 2' and 10 times 'point oh oh 2' is 'point oh 2'"

[@highspeedengineering1027]

@@ButterPockets Gotcha... thanks. Will give it a shot. You have gotten a really nice smooth finish on your prints, I'm struggling to get ours as good. Now that I'm listening for it, I can hear the second "oh". Great vid, very helpful.

[@txdegoable]

I'm new and confused, @5:33 you state that most filaments are 95-98 % extrusion multiplier, and you don't really need the -20 to +20 test, so why not just run the -4 to +4 right from the start and get a more meaningful test results?

[@ButterPockets]

You can! That’s actually what I suggest in the video, just set your EM to 1.00 and run pass 2 which is -10 to 0. That would save time and give you good results! In the video I wanted to show pass 1 just to demonstrate and explain. Hope that helps :)

[@txdegoable]

@@ButterPockets Yes I saw that part in your video, however in the pass 2 it goes from 0 to -9, but I think what you really want is the pass 1 modified to run +4 to -4, otherwise starting at 0 and only going negative you don't get to compare the positive numbers. In your example you used 5 even though you said you felt like 0 was the best tile, unless you were artificially trying to spoof the system by adding 5 and then going -9, but that still basically puts you back at your best tile being 0. I ran the pass 2, 0 ended up being my best tile of the 0 to -9, since 0 is factory setting I just left it alone, did adjust the pressure advance though.

[@ButterPockets]

@@txdegoable I used 5 because the default is 0.95 and in that example 5 still kept me less than 1. You almost never need more than 1.

[@RafaelCeballo]

There is another software called soft fever that seems to do the same thing. I wonder which one of the two is better

[@ButterPockets]

Soft fever was rebranded to orca slicer, so it's the same thing!

[@gerthddyn]

Can you cover how to read all of the other OrcaSlicer calibrations? I've read the wiki, but a better explanation would help me understand what I'm doing. I watched Stefan's video on increasing flow rate capability to improve print strength but while it is interesting it wasn't very actionable on unmodified printers like you did. Also is the print time difference just turning off the autocalibration? (also subbed thanks for the video)

[@ButterPockets]

I personally don't use any of the other calibrations, but I can definitely make a video on them if you want! I find temperature tests a little unnecessary and someone like CNC kitchen has done extensive testing on what temp does for prints. I've found that "normal" temps for filaments work and if something does it I adjust it per print, but I rarely need to adjust temp. Max flow rate and VFA would definitely be a little more useful imo.

[@BrandonKuiphof]

@@ButterPockets I agree. Please make a video on the other calibrations please! Your explanation on these calibrations make the most sense to me out of all I’ve seen. Also, is retraction something that is not normally calibrated anymore?

[@ButterPockets]

Sure. One of the other comments explained how to do what I feel is a better technique so a follow up is definitely coming! I only tune refraction if I need to. I find if stringing is a problem is probably because your filament needs to be dried more than anything.

[@gionnebunu]

also they recommend doing flow rate and pressure advance after...

[@ButterPockets]

I recommend doing it this way. When doing the flow rate test and your printer is doing solid infill it's using pressure advance on every line as it sweeps back and forth. If your PA value is wrong then you'll see bunching or gapping at the edges of your solid infill. To be even more precise you would run PA, then EM, then PA again. It's up to you how precise you want to get!

[@dniezby]

Im using 1.6.2 and for some reason, every time I open Orca none of my settings are saved. Even though I’ve saved them, named them etc. EG. Made a PLA profile and Saved it. Closed the program and when I opened it up, all that shows up is Default PLA Wtf!??!?!

[@bcaswelch]

Did you pick a different nozzle by chance?

[@dniezby]

@@bcaswelch No, that’s what’s baffling me. It first I thought it might be that I didn’t create a Bambu account because I’m not using a networked printer but that didn’t change anything either. I found a folder with all my configurations but for some reason they don’t load in. Now I’m wondering if I have to manually add something to a start up file or something

[@ButterPockets]

I think I know what you mean and if it's the same issue I have I opened a ticket on the github. If you sync with the AMS it always goes to what is selected on the printer for the AMS. You then have to go and change those filaments to your saved filaments in orca slicer. The problem with that is the default color is orange now so you have to save a filament profile with each color of your filament to have it look correct in slicing. So when you go into orca select the edit button next to filament and just switch it to your saved profile. It won't load a saved profile BT default. I hope that helps.

[@Ace01010]

.02 x 10 is .2 not .02 unless me big dumb also wish you showed how to do the negitative values aswell with the formula for the second pass

[@ButterPockets]

It works if the modifier is positive or negative. You’re just adding or subtracting the modifier in percent and it’s already so close to 1 that if the modifier you like is say -2 just take 0.02 off whatever your current number is. In my example where I did +5 the outcome is basically 1. So you can just add 0.05 to 0.95 and get 1. The key here is that your extrusion multiplier is the decimal form of percent: 0.95=95%. Those test tell you how much percent to change it so +5%. It’s very close to 1 already so 5% of .95 is *basically* just 5%=0.05.

[@dsemolian3071]

🤘BITCHIN🤘 Well done! New subbed here👍

[@mycinemax2653]

I tough with lidar, we dont need to manual calibrate anymore, especialy flow rate. I want x1c because of the lidar.

[@ButterPockets]

You certainly don’t have to. But in its current state it still isn’t quite as good as doing it manually and it’s not really robust. Something as simple as too much light can throw it off. If you don’t want to manually calibrate you will definitely still get good results though.

[@JoshBudLight]

​@ButterPockets yeah it defeats the point of the lidar. It may not get as good of a print as my voron 2.4 that i spent hours manually calibrating, as of right now, but it's close. However, I have had a few times ive had better prints off the X1C then my 2.4. Over time the lidar will get better tho

[@frozenwalkway]

i wish the bambuu printer could output a filament profile it could save into the slicer.

[@ButterPockets]

It does. Just export a 3MF file. It will save all your settings.

[@frozenwalkway]

@@ButterPockets ohh thanks

[@braddunn5983]

what about with nozzle size change?

[@ButterPockets]

I actually just changed to a 0.2mm today and my profiles seemed to work just fine. But I’d recommend running a shorter print that you know how it should turn out. If you see a bad seam then redo PA tuning and you see bad top layer then redo EM. It’s mostly based on your prints look!

[@hansherrera6969]

would this work for non bambu printers

[@ButterPockets]

Yep. Provided your firmware supports pressure advance (klipper)/linear advance (marlin).

[@hansherrera6969]

@@ButterPockets my real problem is orca is too slow a 10 hour print on Cora will take 20 on Orga tried copying the settings but the names are all different. I just want to make it faster any idea or some help? Thank you.

[@ButterPockets]

@@hansherrera6969 it’s almost certainly your “min layer time” in your filament settings causing it. But I’d have to like sit and look.

[@hansherrera6969]

@@ButterPockets any way you can help me would be great i can send you pics of my settings

[@petercallison5765]

For any relatively new 3D printers out there, please note that the flow test results are useless if you have not dialed in your bed leveling.

[@ButterPockets]

Well for printers like the X1 you don’t have to worry about bed leveling!

[@rnaparts]

Link to that cube?

[@ButterPockets]

It's called the voron cube and its built into Orca slicer! Just right click>>add primitive>>voron cube

[@dronedynamics5820]

The PA line is much faster and can be as accurate if you know what's looking for.

[@ButterPockets]

In the PT2 video I show an even better method.

[@abitnutz6747]

If you want to throw everything up in the air regarding speed...just buy an E3D ObXidian Hi-Flow hotend. I can run Bambu Labs PETG-CF at a max flow rate of 35 with absolutely no issues. It looks like it's running on ludicrous speed when it's on standard.

[@peterburton3095]

E3d has a serious health warning for this product.

[@abitnutz6747]

@@peterburton3095 But only in california...

[@eclypse3d]

Problem I have is even the dialed in print is not all that great, just look at the letter X and look at how messy it is, also, you should look at this a case by case basis. The X1 C I got the first prints looked like the cube on the left. I check the belt tension and ran some prints, and over time it seems to fine tune its calibrations and the prints got better over time. (arguably it could also be the printer settling). The point is my first cube I printed out of the box looked like his on the right, not the one on the left. So I would suggest you take this video as a suggestion. He makes a claim that is really untrue that the auto calibration does not work, and the values are two basic (which sure you can assume that) however what I find interesting is he went through all this trouble with the EM/PA settings, then why not edit the start Gcode and alter the PA values there to a more accurate range of what he found manually? then let the printer do its thing. Most printers if you look at Core XY(Z) with standard .4 nozzles for EM for instance run between .92 and 1.0 for the value for extrusion multipliers, knowing this and running a PA tuning you can alter the Gcode to look between those values, for instance if you do the Ellis PA print you can easily take the best 3 values and use those in the Gcode. Boom done.

[@ButterPockets]

So, to start this video is a bit dated at this point. There’s been updates and I even have newer videos on it. There’s been a ton of updates to how Bambu studio work and a ton of updates to how the calibration works. I never said it doesn’t work, I was trying to explain that it’s always going to be suboptimal compared to tuning things yourself. Of course the auto calibration works. There’s also no need to edit any kind of start gcode as now the manual calibration checks even more values. These days I do use it and it produces fine results, although I still prefer to tune myself. The point of this video in particular wasn’t to show you perfect prints, but to show you the available methodology to get there. People can take the ideas from this video (and my others) and apply them to how they print to get better.

[@BackDaws]

I just calibrated 4 of my filaments and it was a complete waste of time, all were 0.02 for alignment and 0 for first calibration and 0 for the 2nd. Seem Bambu have their shit turned on with this A1 printer. Edit: all different filaments (pla) as well .

[@Eric_In_SF]

Going to far is a bit pointless. I’ll tune things to a certain degree but I’m not gonna get in there and start dialing it in for an hour. Especially when you have filament that’ll change from the beginning of the real to the end in increments of .0001 when you start dialing in things that Subatomic level. Get it close, and call it a day.

[@ButterPockets]

That's why I like these tunings, especially what's in PT2 for PA. Definitely doesn't take an hour and most of it's just a couple clicks, but you can always tune to whatever quality you want on your prints!

[@leckomio8812]

Speaking of filament waste which is the argument here. You using those calibration test where the tower could be half the size in height and where it is ridiculous to test -/+20 or -/+15 flow rates as they are not real world scenarios. If you need those values your printer setup is wrong or faulty. I guess there waste is euqal here to BL automatic approach as the lines due waste less then then the hole tower.

[@ButterPockets]

I think it’s in my next video where I say that I wouldn’t recommend the pass1 to begin with. Set it to like 1.1 and run pass2 only. That’s also why I like to run the pattern test in a small range of known values. For PLA from like 0.01 to 0.03. Instead of two passes and huge ranges

[@MarkLevantPhoto]

hated to give you a like because it ruined your perfect 777 likes but the video was too good not to like

[@SwitchToRumble]

yOU SHOULD RUN CALIBRATION EVEN IF THE COLOR CHANGES...

[@AarenIgnazio77]

AI tuning?

[@jonhaze7537]

Bambu lol

[@Samer-3D]

Great video!