I love your poetic photography 🌿 Your work is a strong argument for Fomapan 400 👍🌟

I don’t have my own M3 but barrow. I have the Canon 7sZ & a M6 M adapted. Can I use w/o goggles on my mirrorless camera?

Had my M11D for 10 days now and not once missed the screen. And I enjoyed not wondering if I should change to another user profile.

the m11-D in glossy would have been a hit

You have to be a purist to go for a digital M anyway. No autofocus, no video ect. The D takes the purists ethos a step further. I’d love one but it’s certainly not a necessity

I shoot with an M6 and a Q3, If i could afford an M11D i would buy one in a heartbeat! I think this was a BRILLIANT IDEA from LEICA.

I get why someone would want to buy this but 9k for less features is peak Leica fanboy marketing IMO. On top of that its done with one of the buggiest most glitchy model Leica has released. Maybe they should have worked on the M11 freezing issues or their battery shortage rather than over-engineer another cash grab. I'll stick to my 240/M2 combo till they both die.

Hi Seb The only thing preventing me from buying a Leica M is because I wear varifocals and not sure how I’d get on with the patch, how do you get on with prescription eyewear?

This reminds me of those silly episodes of the Top Gear donkeys years ago, where there so called grown men enthused over the likes of special versions of Ferrari and Porsche cars which had been stripped of all the ' unnecessary ' amenities of a modern car and sold them to the rich and famous at prices up to 30% higher than the ' normal ' cars with fully loaded extars!!!! You work it out. For what its worth, I do like these Leicas without the LCD as I still live in the film era, but Leica are no fool, and they know that this has very limited appeal so the numbers they make is very very small.

Leica owners are so bored with their money that they pay more to lose features lmao

So they removed the screen to ask you for more?

I managed to get one and think it's fantastic! I really feel more present with it, just like with my film cameras - in fact it makes switching between my MP and this one all the more fluid. I would have gotten the M10-D, but I really like the ISO dial in back instead of exp. compensation, which I don't use.

I still prefer to have a screen on a digital, if I want the film experience I use my M2. I bought an M240 in preference to an M10, I just liked the colours from it. I don’t need massive megapixels, the later Leica digitals are a tad too clinical for my taste. Btw I think the original M-D was more a modified 262 rather than 240 but that is being a bit of a pedant 🙂

Bristol Cameras do a 30.5m roll of Fomapan 400 for £55 inc. shipping. That works out at £3.05 per 36exp roll (assuming you are reusing cassettes).

Does the developer need to be at a certain temperature?

Do you have to shoot as jpeg just bought a D800 and love b&w

Would have been helpful to see close-ups of your DIY notch and the indexing tab.

You should definitely try fomapan 100.

Have you tried Foma 200? I think it’s even better. Which developer do you use if I may ask? It’s a great video, but it’s super important to mention the chemistry that works best with Foma. You can try to soup it in Rodinal but the results won’t be as good as yours.

I bought 30 meters of Fomapan 400 as well and I love it!

We all tend to settle on a favourite film stock so glad you’ve found one that works for you. I settled on Kodak Double X movie film because it worked for my style and it is capable of being pushed a fair bit when needed. I develop in Bellini Hydrofen, which I standardised on with occasionally HC110 for a change.

have you used it with any remote flash triggers ? yesturday I discovered that this camera is not compatible with my iTTL flash trigger so I need to find soulution for this issue

Did you make your money back then?

I paint my rangefinder caps silver so they are very obvious. I did this after wasting three frames with the Gs645s.

Love the video. I wondering since this video is about a year old now, has there been any further corrosion on your sensor? I'm trying to decide whether I should get the glass replacement if mine is still not showing any signs (it's an earlier sensor v11)

I've been shooting, processing, darkroom printing b&w since 1978, I have also shot (or at least post process from raw) digital in DSLR and Mirrorless. I have also experienced monochrome dedicated digital cameras, ones that have no RGB bayer array filter, no AA filter on the sensor and only gray scale settings. I can 1000% say that IF you are serious as me with b&w photography, a monochrome camera is the way to go. No color sensor, post edited can match the tones, dynamic range, inner tonal quality and sharpness or clarity of a monochrome sensor. It is pure b&w photography at its finest that I compare IQ-wise to 4x5 large format film where depth and pop are a real thing. Just like in b&w film photography, you use color filters on the lens to your desired tonal values. It is why I am considering a Pentax K3 III Monochrome or maybe find a cheap D810 and converting the sensor (eliminating the Bayer and AA filters). 36MP and a stop more light might be the way to go since the Pentax with my old Nikkor lenses is APS-C, but that is not a deal breaker to be totally honest as the Pentax is also programed internally 100% for b&w photography. If you haven't shot with a monochrome camera, you just don't know until you see it for yourself.

I love my F5 too. Its a beast and it is tough as nails.

Not sure that anybody is interested.

On the Nikon F3 you have the option to use non-ai lens :) I recently got one, as I use mostly Fujifilm for digital, and was looking for a way to try Film.

I own that lens as well and agree it’s certainly one of Nikon’s best ever made and legendary status. I’ve used in on my Z9 and the rendering is fantastic. I recently bought an F5 and can’t wait to see how it and other lenses perform! Thanks for doing video on a legendary lens! Nice images!

Don’t forget about the Nikon F6. Most people do.

I also prefer 24. For me 36 is too much for separating rolls of different subjects and also for scanning. I prefer to shoot a specific subject or situation and have less frames on the roll. And also when scanning a prefer to finish a "job" or a "project" faster with shorter rolls. We shoot a lot less frames with film anyways.

Does f6 have any advantage over f5?

Too heavy for me. I have the F100 which is 90% ish the same as the F5 but lighter. I do have the add-on battery pack for the (very) rare occasion I need the extra capacity. The one thing I miss with the F100 over the F5 is the ability to leave some film leader sticking out of the film cartridge after rewinding.

Nice video, being an F5 user myself I agree with all your points on this super flexible and ultra reliable powerhouse - Truly it is the only camera you need for film and fantastic value. Add to this the possibility to use 'modern' lenses (with VR even) and the only negative is the weight - tip for this use lithium batteries (much lighter than alkaline) to shave some weight off.

Great bit of kit but i will stick with my 70-200 f/2.8 vr

Hi,great video, what is that thing on the front suncap?

The counter is accualy for the amount of rolls it has shot. Not the frames is has shot.

앉아서 주절대기만 하는 제일 재미없는 리뷰스타일이네

This really is a dilemma. Your points are well made, but as I don’t do my own developing - I do my own scanning - the cost of developing a role via my local lab is the same be it 24 or 36 - £5. This impacts on the cost per exposure which in itself is a relative cost, but over the course of say a year does become of interest. At say 2 rolls/month the cost over a year is £120 then the number of exposures is 576 vs 864 for the same cost. I tend to shoot Ilford XP2 which is on average £8/24 and £9.50/36. So applying the same maths, over a year 24 exposures will cost £192 vs 36 exposures costing £228. Add the developing then the costs are £312 and £348 respectively. Yes, it may take a bit longer to use a 36 exposure, but the cost does have a fairly major impact on my film photography costs. Interestingly the difference is £36! This little exercise has scared the s**t out of me😮😂

I have 3 rolls of super g 1600 in my freezer. I really need to see if they are still good and then find an excuse to use them.

Doesn’t really bother me. I shoot 36exp (I gave up bulk rolling) and rarely end up wondering how I’ll finish the roll. I can’t remember the last time a film was in the camera for more than two days. The only time I worry about finishing a roll is with my PenFT half frame. That gives 72 on a 36 roll, it requires careful planning to finish a roll in a reasonable time frame.

Still the best digital M for me

I landed mine 3 years ago this month, new from B&H - just over $6K. Gorgeous portraits; no regrets. Thank you for rekindling my excitement!

I've had an MP since 2015 and it's a very nice camera. I've certainly got used to feel of the battery cover. However, on both my MP and M6 they work loose over time. So I find that I need to check it's not going to fall off from time to time, as it'll cost about £1000 or something silly to replace ;) You are right about the meter, it does need a little bit of a press to wake it up. I think the issue with the meter not working until you wind it on is more about the grey disc on the shutter curtain. The meter uses that to gauge the exposure and if the shutter is not cocked it's not physically in place. I've always found the meter to be pretty accurate, but as film loves light I always err towards overexposure. However, use an M6TTL more than my MP for two reasons. Firstly, the shutter dial is bigger and easier to set. Secondly, I can rewind a film in a few seconds using the crank. The MP takes forever and is not a particularly pleasant experience (although, I have knocked the M6 crank which required some pliers to enable the camera to wind the film on again!). I find the rapid load really easy, just drop the film in and make sure it is seated. Pull the leader PAST the middle of the three prongs. Check it's lined up OK and just shut the back (no need to fiddle with the film and risk damaging the shutter curtain). If the red dots are moving, you're good to go!

I have owned Leica M film cameras since 1975, every model except the M7. I bought a new MP in March 2024 just because I had not bought a new M since 1995. Your review and the issues with the half press and battery cover are absolutely ridiculous. If you don’t want a meter or being able to turn the meter on, get an MA or one of the classic Leicas like the M3, M2 or M4.

Had my Mp since 2003 and a m4p …never once thought or had an issue with that battery cover … had a couple of m6 as well .. sold em off .. again.. no problem with that pesky battery cover ….

I recently got the M9 Monochrom. You need to get one when you find a good deal. just make sure the sensor has been replaced. Just subscribed. Cheers

I’m not surprised that cost you only 40 quid mate. That focusing ring is as dry as a kookaburra’s crutch …

I don’t normally use those pre-AI lenses on my digital cameras only AI. However, I have an F2 with both dp1 and dp11 metering heads then I can use both types on film. They are great with film.