Well at least its a rarity but I can only pontificate on so many of the same games year after year, at least there's some visual commentary so its not completely soulless.

I'm assuming you mean the Netrunner ones? I can't remember 100%, I try and avoid extracting from PDFs as you lose some quality but if they didn't provide it in another source then thats probably what I did. You can do this yourself in Photoshop by opening the PDF as a file and selecting the appropriate images.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean when you say the "foil gets a little off" but certainly the sharper the cutter the less likely the laminate will will experience friction and/or similar problems. Also make sure the laminator is as hot as it can get and if necessary do two runs through to ensure the three layers are as bonded together as possible.

​@@DicevsCards I meant that during cutting (and I'm using Kadomaru pro corner rounder and Fiskars 5446 paper trimmer, so IDK if it can get sharper), about 1mm of foil gets disconnected from the paper so it gets visibly more matte on the edges. I will try with 2 passes through the laminator. Previously i run it only once, but it was very hot (running for like 15 minutes before use). It's Tracer A3 laminator, supposedly a little above the Amazon Essentials one.

@@DicevsCards BTW, what model paper cutter are you using?

Hi, I found it in US letter size at a.co/d/0ix9uCDg or the one I bought last was A4 at amzn.eu/d/0hiKBNme

Ultimately I didn't trust that I could adequately predict the cost of ink dependant on what printer you have and where in the world you are. The costs that are more predictable are of course the laminating sheets and the paper, which if you're using A4/US letter size will fit 9 cards on per sheet. Honestly I wouldn't have even felt confident in giving a range cost for the ink so your mileage may vary. There is also the assumption that you could you use a home/office grade printer that can print on specialty media that you probably have access to anyway for your personal needs, but maybe I can do research in the future to try and nail down some indicative costs. Ultimately if you're on the fence and the shipping costs for a printing company aren't exorbitatant then thats always a viable option (and of course comes with the least in the way of trial & error obstacles) but if you want more control of what you're doing and what you need then this may be the way to go.

@@DicevsCards It seems that it will cost around EUR 242.28 before printing. (including if you're getting a legit monthly subscription from photoshop for just the 1 month).

If there was I would be a extremely happy camper. A satin laminate would be at the top of my list for upgrading this process assuming I wanted to play with them unsleeved of course. If you're sleeving then there's no real need. Just FYI if you are searching there are many, many terms used for this type of finish alongside satin, you've also got semi-gloss, lustre, silk, pearl and so on. If you do find some please do post about it here 😉

@@DicevsCards of the things I've found people talk about Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer Matte on forms. maybe you could try that? Other than that not a lot of specifics I saw other than acrylic sprays or wood working stuff which should work on paper

Thank you kindly, glad you enjoyed it.

Haha can't believe I missed that one, I would call it `one person proofing quality` 😀

It really really was and because of its age I just respect the hell out of it.

Greetings to you, I am glad you liked the video, I'm sorry the hot laminate did not work, did you ensure that the laminator was as hot as it can be and that the sheets were suitable for heating? I have never used cold lamination as I can't see how it could possibly bind the materials together as well as a heat press but I've been wrong before.

Yeah I was a big fan of Decipher, they were foremost in my mind when it came to CCGs in that period and as an extension to your point they didn't just lazily take advantage of the fact that they had three hugely popular IP's to play with. I remember Fight Klub feeling like the last hurrah, alas I never followed it that much but still bad luck can't rid of us these wonderful games as each have a continuing committee keeping them alive.

@@DicevsCards FK was such an odd duck. I had a strong feeling it was doomed from the start, and it certainly was, but it was still fun to be a part of the ride. I wish there were a way to reprint their old games. Star Trek, Star Wars, LotR, the holy trinity of excellent card games, imho.

it can still be used as any energy type but in the rare instance that a card references a printed type of resource then only the specific resource mentioned can be used.

Excellent, thanks for the update, I'm still seeing some games played at local stores so thats good to hear.

True that is one way to play multi-handed online and I believe they are all licensed, much like those found on Tabletopia and some of those that are found on Tabletop Simulator. Each have varying degrees of automation which may make life easier with the difficulty that comes with playing multi-handed.

when the left part of the brain thanks for the right part for their beer 😉

You're very welcome.

That's ... what that was...

@@Nex41354😂. If only he only told us exactly how to do it. If only he saved us from using the wrong materials.

One of these days, hopefully soon I'll drill down in to some more detail......and also go through what I've learnt since posting this video 😉

@@DicevsCards appreciate this video good sir! I’ve honestly just been going to Office Depot and asking them to print my Shadowverse Evolve proxies. I’m still trying to find the right paper choice. Last I chose was 12 pt Gloss Cardstock Cover and no laminating. It looks and feels a little less than close so I give it a B- grade. Maybe I’ll try laminating it next time. They only offer the 5 mil option and I don’t know if it’s gloss or matte laminate. If it’s not matte then I’ll have to opt for purchasing my own laminating equipment. What options do you think will give me the best results?

lets see Paul Allen's card......

It is so good, you might want to check out Star Wars Unlimited if its readily available where you are, might scratch some of the itch for Destiny. Its funny I saw the two player starter set for Destiny still in a physical store the other day, I was quite surprised.

I'm glad you enjoyed it! Yep thats a good tip too for deck construction, there's plenty of helpful pointers for synergistic cards over on arkhamdb.com

Aye its a privilege that not every great collectible game gets a second chance at life, glad you enjoyed the video.

Yeah I had been aware of SMASH at one point in time but this had since escaped from my memory when making this video, FYI for anyone reading this, SMASH is a pick up and play variant where you select two premade 15 card lists and mash em together and have at it. Created by fellow content creator Dice Commando, looks like the latest lists can be found at docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WyohX2qmlKN-7CdKXBuxcXBNFLXZRYc9g7BMfgSsDVA/edit#gid=1503900250

What a lovely comment and you are very welcome, honestly I can't say enough nice things about the various continuing committees out there like yours, especially those that are excellently maintained like ARH is by devoted fans of the game.

You are very welcome, glad I could shine an albeit small spotlight on the great work you guys are doing!

Any type of guillotine cutter with a rule to line up the blade will do.

It would certainly shine the spotlight again on such a brilliant game.

@@DicevsCards yes or some beeter remake i watch the new lord of the rings cards and dont much like it this from film was excelent

Yeah I've noticed more and more you have to do your research on what printer to get, which will somewhat help in mitigating the cost of ink.

Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it, I still plan to do some research on holo/foils but haven't got round to determining my ideal method yet, watch this space.

I think the only thing I was trying to clear up with this is that from the rules reference "discarding is the act of attempting to move a card from a non-discard-pile play area to a discard pile". I imagine quite a few people if not the majority associate discarding with removing from hand so this was my attempt to clarify that that wasn't the case with MC. The "unless specified" was likely a throwaway comment that catered for a card that doesn't specify where it could be discarded from. I do not believe that there is specific mention of this in the rules reference or in any rules clarification posts.

Yep its a shame games like Destiny end up gathering dust because a great game remains a great game, even without new official content And for those that want new content thats what A Renewed Hope is for.

ci grande 😉

The edges of the card would be exposed once you cut the laminate, so not waterproof, no.

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I'll try and answer your questions in order: I only advocate the use of glossy paper, the advice then is to use matte laminating pouches if you are not going to sleeve your cards or you can use gloss if you are going to use matte sleeves. In my opinion gloss laminate and gloss sleeves are way too reflective for me to enjoy a card game with, however if you do not have a problem with that, then use gloss laminate and gloss sleeves as colour retention and image definition is at its most optimal in those instances. I have never felt the need to use perfect fit sleeves for these as I am not trying to protecting them, undersleeving is in my opinion a necessary evil not a benefit to shuffling or handling. Undersleeving and not using laminate is something that might be worth exploring but the intention with this guide was to make the best proxy I could that did not require sleeving. What I found in answer to your last bullet points is that no matter what GSM paper/cardstock that I used on its own did not reliably mimic the flex of most mass produced cards. With laminate what you are ultimately doing is mirroring the three layers of said mass produced cards, in so doing the binding of three layers gives a similar resistance when holding, flexing and shuffling the cards. I think when you refer to 300 GSM paperboard you are talking about uncoated cardstock but you should be able to find photo paper at that GSM, that may be worth trying. Just to be clear though the only reason that I am able to use a lower GSM is because the laminate adds to the overall heft and thickness of the finished product. I do hope this has answered your questions, feel free to follow up if it hasn't.

First, thank you for your answers. Now I know you don't want to undersleeve I understand why you laminate your cards. I would like to know why you prefer this option. Because I think it is important to have the same flexibility as a real card, and undersleeves give you a choice. Do I need an extra layer with this paper GSM or not? I hope you see my point. Now, as for glossy paper, I tried : - Koala double sides Glossy 120 GSM Color are medium. Definition is good. It's almost regular paper thin, so you need to double it with a real card like a land (Magic player here). The good point is that we cannot detect the proxy from the side when shuffling. - HP glossy 200 GSM Great color. The definition is a bit blurry, but like all other glossy non-mat paper (except for Koala 120 GSM). The proxy still needs to be doubled by another card. The issue is that it can be seen from the side due to its thickness. - Epson glossy mat 189 GSM Stunning color and precision. The proxy needs to be doubled by another real card, but it feels less flexible than the 200 GSM. This contradicts intuition. I think it's due to how mat and reflective glossy are processed. The card can still be spotted from the side as you need to double it. - Epson Glossy premium 255 GSM Great color, but a bit too pale for me. That means black is not black enough for me, but you can see more detail than with the HP glossy. 255 GSM is very thick, and you still need to double it with a real card. The proxy is really too visible from the side. Something you said confused me : "With laminate what you are ultimately doing is mirroring the three layers of said mass-produced cards, in so doing the binding of three layers gives a similar resistance when holding, flexing and shuffling the cards." Even if you laminate your card, the GSM/thickness of the paper should be considered. You linked 180 and 200 GSM. How does-it feel the same? Thank you for your time. My quest is to find a paper not to thick who would not require to doubling by a real card (with or without undersleeve/laminate).

How did you cut your cards?

Thank you and definitely there is more to come.