Great video👍

"Hint" on the Astra was the lady owner goes "I have to keep topping up the water. They said it's the clutch.." Yeah.. No. In her defence, she's not into cars & I doubt she knows what a clutch or a waterpump are. In their defence.... erm, nope, I got nothing. Then again, Electrician chucks in his Vito tuesday - DOE fail, other stuff plus tracking is out. He went to a tracking crowd first, they go "Your wishbone bushings are focked, we can't track it without fitting all new arms / bushings first"... Except the DOE fail sheet never mentioned bushings or arms, just tracking, as I pointed out. They'd have mentioned bushings.. Gave it to a pal who does tracking, he tracked it (no parts required) - I fixed the rest of the stuff, off it goes for re-test & passes flying colours. Spoofers Peter - spoofers abound. There's no end to it. I'm becoming cynical, lol.

Yes.

True and correct, I generally apply sealer with a normal silicone gun through a 2 or 3 mm hole. I also try to allow it fall from around 1 inch from the contact surface. This generally gives me a nice round application of sealer. Sometimes this doesn’t work out perfectly but does normally work out perfect. Cheers mate 🙏🙏

I had them sitting around for a while but this is my first time encountering them. I really do think that they just try to complicate things by introducing this kind of stuff. What would have been wrong with a good old fashioned 21mm head bolt 🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️ Anyway tell me you first name again as I simply cannot remember it, I don’t like not knowing & thank you for responding to some of the comments. They really were accurate 🙏🙏

He moved the axle stand to the compressor towards the front of the engine

I’ll have to employ Bastogne to manage my KZbin channel 😂😂😂 Great responses by the way 🙏🙏

Great to hear from the car's owners. Your wheels are famous now 😂

Thank you so much Paul, I really appreciate your custom & trusting me with your car. Hopefully you had a lovely holiday, thanks again 🙏🙏

Its at start of vid. 150k i think.

Thank you so much for you help, I would be lost without you 🙏🙏🙏

Brilliant mate, well done and thank you 🙏 🙏

Hi Thomas, it is a strange crank pulley design but a great time saver, thanks mate 🙏

😂😂😂 it is actually in an unusually easy location. Well done Ford 💪💪

Hi Paul, a scantool doesn’t do any magic. It just erases faults after the faults have been repaired. So if the faults aren’t repaired first then the scantool cannot erase them 🤔🤔 Has the car been involved in a collision or are your repairs under the seat good enough. You need to look at live data and figure out where the problems are and then you will be able to erase them 😉👍👍

I only removed the lower section from the steering rack. There is only 1 bolt holding it on 👍

Yes, I done show what I would class as the easy stuff 😉

It is impossible for me to say, but as in this video the egr cooler fails very commonly and the over heating causes that kind of noise 😬😬😬

Off hand I cannot remember but I’m guessing around €300 or so 😉

It should be relatively easy to remove the rocker cover just to take a look in and see how what happened. See where you go from there 🤞🤞

This exhaust pressure sensor & pipe do dictate boost pressure. The sensor fails very often and there is a revised one available for it now. I find the best way to clear them if blocked is with heat and compressed air. It could save a lot of time for you 🤞🤞🤞

Well done mate, that is exactly what this channel is about. Trying to help each other out. You also sound like a very capable man on fixing cars 💪💪 I’d give you a job any day 🙂🙂

Unfortunately it could be anything, from no fuel pressure to a crankshaft position sensor or just a broken wire 😔😔

Hi Paul, well done mate that sounds fantastic. I’m delighted my little video helped & thank you so much for the really good comment 🙏🙏🙏

Is your car manual or automatic??

@@kennedysgarage3281 auto. Succeded after draining about 2 batteries worth of charge.

@@bakakun well done mate 💪💪💪

Did you check your exhaust pressure sensor pipe and intake manifold pressure sensor? There could be a software update available too. The fault conditions for this fault to set are fairly specific. The accelerator pedal position needs to be zero and it needs to see the fault for 5 seconds iirc before it logs the fault. It also needs to see the same fault twice on two separate ignition cycles before it brings the mil on. The abs, city brake etc lights can come on first when the first P0101 fault is logged. Egr flow shows as zero for both egr cooler bypass and egr when the vehicle is on overrun in the condition to set the code. The code won’t log if there is a passive regeneration taking place ( which with this fault occurring can cause the dpf to block quicker as it in itself will prevent regeneration taking place once the eml is ill7minated.

This is the fault description and setting criteria for a CX5 DTC P0101:00 MAF sensor circuit range/performance problem DETECTION CONDITION • When the following conditions are met, the intake air amount is out of the specification (fluctuates with engine speed) for a continuous 5.2 s. MONITORING CONDITIONS ― Battery voltage: 8-20 V ― 60 s have elapsed after engine was started. ― Engine speed: 1,000-3,500 rpm ― Fuel injection amount: 0 mm3/st ― Charge air temperature: below 60 °C {140 °F} ― Desired EGR valve position: below 1 % ― Desired intake shutter valve position: 53 ° ― Intake manifold pressure: below 200 kPa {2.03 kgf/cm2, 29.0 psi} ― EGR cooler bypass valve position: below 1 % ― Regulating valve target drive duty value: above 55 % ― Wastegate valve target drive duty value: above 60 % ― OCV: not active ― The following DTCs are not detected: • EGR valve position sensor: P0405:00, P0406:00 • EGR valve DC motor control system: P0404:00, P0488:00 • Intake shutter valve control: P2101:00ÅAP2118:00ÅAP1589:00 • MAF sensor: P0102:00, P0103:00 • IAT sensor No.2: P007C:00, P007D:00 • MAP sensor No.2: P0107:00, P0108:00 • Intake shutter valve position sensor: P0122:00, P0123:00 • BARO sensor: P2228:00, P2229:00 Diagnostic support note • This is a continuous monitor (CCM). • The check engine light illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while the DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in the PCM. • PENDING CODE is available if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle. • FREEZE FRAME DATA/Snapshot data is available. • DTC is stored in the PCM memory. FAIL-SAFE FUNCTION • PCM restricts engine torque. • Inhibits the EGR control. • Inhibits the auto DPF regeneration control. • Inhibits the compulsory DPF regeneration control. • Inhibits engine-stop by operating the i-stop function. POSSIBLE CAUSE • MAF sensor/IAT sensor No.1 connector or terminals malfunction • MAF sensor/IAT sensor No.1 loose • PCM connector or terminals malfunction • Air suction or restriction in intake-air system • Exhaust gas leakage from exhaust system or clogging (EGR) • MAF sensor malfunction • Turbocharger malfunction (turbine wheel and/or compressor wheel damaged, stuck) • PCM malfunction

Thank you for the information. I do have one more issue with it that I found: On the live data when the car was idling, most of the data was within parameters except one, which was over the limit. The "Turbocharger Compressor Inlet Pressure Sensor A" which, according to the tester the range should be between 0 and 100 kPa, on idle it was sitting at 104 kPa, so red colour. When hard accelerating on the motorway, it was going to 200+ kPa

@@Telorayou the last reply was a fantastic & well explained response 💪💪 That intake pressure sensor A normally sits at 96kpa at idle. Just under atmosphere pressure, due to the turbo changeover flap being closed under 2000rpm. It then jumps up to around 200kpa or so once the engine speed goes over 2000rpm and the trap door opens for the larger low pressure turbo. The only time I have ever been caught with the P0101 is with hydraulic tappets getting soft and not opening the intake & exhaust valves on time 🤔🤔

Admittedly I am not an engine builder. But strangely I regularly end up in this position. I really wouldn’t be a fellow to be taking training lessons from but it works for me. Hopefully the walk through helps though, just to show what is involved. Cheers mate 🤞🤞

The internal holes in the cooler have gotten slightly bigger and square rather than round in shape. This is supposedly going to resolve the issue 🤞🤞🤞

@@kennedysgarage3281 Very interesting, thanks. My original did 170k kms or 105k miles. So quite likely the new one will have enough life until the rest of the car needs to be scrapped.

@@Vorrester fingers crossed 🤞🤞🤞

You are most welcome, hopefully it helped you out 🤞🤞