That tester is so easy to overlook in that scenario! You would have powered the light up fine and never known it wasn’t grounded and 100% safe

Glad you thought so! 🙏

I agree with some of your points, others personal preference. Clockwise = righty righty. No different. I like black ties for not showing dirt as quick. I like ties on both ends. I think the wrap comes together cleaner. I use the male end tie more often as a strain relief to generator handles, conduit, etc. Haven’t had any issues with glue from the E Tape but I’ll consider friction tape for the next crate I make up. Glad to see others sharing tips and helping out 🙏

NanLux makes it! Look up NL Mount Projection Adapter

Thank you I appreciate that! I sort of wish I had my personal JoLeko with me for this test because i definitely don’t have that weird dead spot in the middle. Oh well. I still love my HMI but so often lately it would be wayyyy too much output. I reach for the 900C with Leko adapter most often unless I know we need a ton of output.

I had no issues. They weren’t at 100% either but I felt good about it even if they were.

@@PancakeLighting well thats pretty cool, Ive been thinking about bringing my arri lights to set mroe and using them. Ive been spoiled by LED but it would be cool to go to something with the best color rendition

It’s pretty fun to go back to the old tungsten. When I am able to dim it from my iPad the DPs get very excited!

It’s about going with the standards adopted by the manufacturers. You could set up wdmx or some other protocol but most every new fixture has it built in. I don’t see how you’ll fight it unless you just don’t upgrade.

Last I checked, the Luminair database did not have these. I’ve been using a profile from the evoke 900C to control my PavoSlims. It works just fine. It’s been a while- perhaps it’s been added. You can also create your own profile.

Never seen a film set without plenty of “stingers” on hand.

Not sure I understand the question. If the breaker is 20A, that is the max you can put on everything tied to that breaker. LMK if that doesn’t answer your question

Great question! I use wireless CRMX to control all lights from different brands on an iPad. I have a video about it- just check my recent uploads for the Wireless DMX CRMX video.

Thanks for watching! The 650s are there for a couple reasons- two fit nicely in a milk crate 🤩 but also, it’s added value that costs me virtually NOTHING. Nobody ever asks for it but I actually find quite a few places to use them. On certain low budget jobs they really appreciate having additional sources without having to add another fixture to the invoice.

My rack was a custom build by a shop in Portland Oregon. It’s all welded 1-piece and needed to be installed with a forklift. The tubes are 6” pvc with caps from a plumbing supply store. Tubes are mounted to the rack with ratchet straps. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! 🤩

Thanks homie. That would be so cool to do a job together! I’ve been thinking the same about that little space up top. A pack of dashs, mc pros, or Luna bulbs. Perhaps a custom kit of 2-4 of all of the above would be cool too.

@@PancakeLighting ooooohhhh. A mixed kit of some Luna Bulbs, some Nxy Bulbs, some MC Pros, and some DMG Dash lights that all charge from one plug, in one pelican case would be amazing. That’s a really interesting idea.

@@shadowshapersooh. I hadn’t even thought about a charging case lol. On my typical job I rarely need 8 bulbs or 8 pocket lights. I just need a smattering of options. A charging case would be cool. I found out tho that for Luna bulbs you still need an Astera box (which I would have to purchase) 4 Lunas plus an art 7 would take me close to the price of the 8 Luna kit. I may just have to go for it.

@@PancakeLighting Oh ouch, that sucks. Would you need the art7 box if you have that Luna bulb config box for them? The one that comes in the pelican case for them?

Update; guess i didn't watch long enough yet lol

Apparently that’s the only one in the line without the pop up softbox. I’ve got my eyes on that eventual 2x4’.

Appreciate you!

Thanks Walker!

This was a first look. I’m going to put em through their paces and share more detailed info.

Light quality on all these name brand lights is not even worth going over anymore, they're all more than accurate enough

Glad you find it helpful :). Honestly, I see the 240C becoming a work horse in my van. If you can only get one PavoSlim, I’d recommend that. If you’re choosing between the 120C and the 60CL, go for the 120. I think the output would be better than being small for those rare occasions. My two cents!

It could be. Depends if the fixture supports DMX.

Thank you for the feedback. I love your lights!

I love it. I don't know your needs or what gap you're trying to fill in your 2-ton but I added a 1200B to my 900C in my sprinter. I think the build quality and customer service is top notch!

Not that I know of

Thank you! Aputure Lantern 90

Thank you!

I appreciate that Connor. That's the goal of the channel- Real info from real sets. Glad to see that being noticed :)

Thank you for the feedback- I think that’s a great idea for a future vid. Thanks!

I don’t understand what this means

Thanks! Hope it helps you 😎

I would recommend the Ratpac Satellite as a transmitter. If you want to find a budget friendly CRMX transceiver, look at the Godox stuff

@@PancakeLighting Thank you it's helps me a lot.

I do declare i don’t know what this means

That’s a good idea! Are you referring to tow plants or specifically Honda 6500s for running new 2400/2600 LEDs?

@@PancakeLighting Well, on second thought it might not be the most popular video topic for your channel, what I need as far as tutorial info. So I've assembled a bunch of classic HMI arc lights, 3x Arrisun 12+ and most recently a Desisti 2340 (and also a mixture of par/fresnel 400's, 8 I think... or 10). The Arrisuns are at the limit of plug-and-play for a 20A house circuit (which has been suitable so far) but the 2340 is a 4000 watt fixture with a bates plug and it's totally going to need a genny... AFAIK at least. I'd love to have some insights on how to go about this for an indy guy, from renting to buying, what to look out for, I'm kinda new to exploring the G/E side. I've been shooting 35mm b/w on 90's era MovieCams through old anamorphic glass since 2011 so I'm something of a unicorn here. I need the punch and point-source of HMI's also because I tend to go for that chiaroscuro hard-key look. A tut on genny selection and laying electrical pipe to and from would be super helpful to me at least... Will a 6500 put out enough juice for a 4000 watt lamp? Thanks for considering my questions!

The deeper you get into power distro, the more variables arise that can effect your decisions. For example, do you want to run your lights at 120v or 240v (if capable). How far do you need to keep your generator from set? Does your location have access to a dryer plug? There’s lots Involved, feel free to send me an email ([email protected]) that’s likely a more streamlined communication. To answer your question directly, yes you can run a 4k off a Honda 6500. You could either build a twist lock to bates adapter or change the bates on your ballast to twist lock. Same difference. You will have to choose if you’re working it to 120V (hot, neutral, ground) or 240v (hot, hot, ground). Personally I would go 240 just to keep the generator balanced and amperage lower.