@@paulgorman8097 from my experience there is no danger of the timber rotting. If you hempcrete over the timbers (so you cannot see them once you have hempcreted) it is easier to plaster than when timbers are on the surface. The minimum cover over the timber is 25mm for a 50mm wide timber.

@@williamstanwix that’s great advice, thank you. Another question. How would you suggest to best insulate window reveals where the depth is limited, ( c. 20/40mm). Obviously it will need to be blended into the 150 hempcrete/studwork? I’m trying to eliminate cold bridging at the reveals? Thank you.

@@paulgorman8097 I’m not quite sure I’ve understood the question correctly, but at the window reveals you can use an insulative permanent shuttering board such as woodfibre board or woodwool board.

@@williamstanwixI was thinking more of an insulated plaster? I could probably just mix up a heavy solution of hemp and lime..🤔

@@paulgorman8097 oh I see, yes there are various downloads in my website from the different binder manufacturers and they each specify a hemp plaster mix. If your in the UK East Yorkshire hemp do a 0mm to 3mm hemp shiv that is for plastering, you just replace the sand with the fine hemp. So you might do a 5 parts fine hemp shiv : 2 parts lime www.thathempcreteguy.co.uk

No issues, I even had a flood during the build from a burst pipe, the floor dried out very quickly 🎉

The dry basecoat helps the top coat dry quicker and helps you get a good finish. If it was wet it would take ages to finish the top coat as it wouldn’t be getting hard quick enough

Me too! instagram.com/p/CQ5ZjI0sk7l/?igsh=MTd0Yzh0bWZvdmQyNg==

@@williamstanwix thank you .. nice being part of the clay family

www.thathempcreteguy.co.uk you can contact me through the form on my website.

@@dariusm7505 the machine is called a 3CM, it’s a French machine.

I just wanted as much insulation as I could. The thicker the layer the better the insulation. It’s 10 inches total glass foam but I put it down in two layers and compacted after each layer.

Simply fill and slide, maybe a little press if you need to

Hi Peter, could you elaborate on this?

I prefer a pan mixer but they are bulky to move from site to site. They definitely mix the best although I’ve not used a ribbon mixer.

@@williamstanwix i think the design of each mixer is important , unlike OPC concrete , Hempcrete is sensitive to density of compaction . a bowl that is wider would probably have less compaction than a mixer that has a tall mixing chamber as the height would result in higher density mix . high density means higher structural strength but poorer insulating properties.

StanwixLTD www.thathempcreteguy.co.uk Buckinghamshire England

The recipe for the mortar is just a normal lime mortar- 5 parts sharp sand (0mm-4mm) : 2 parts NHL2 by volume.

They are normally used for walls- www.hempblock.co.uk

@@williamstanwix thanks!

Hemp is a large but light weight aggregate, you can build out thick and fill big holes quickly without worrying it will off. It is extremely flexible when compared to normal sand mixes. It also dries much quicker than a plaster of the same thickness.

I used a very straw rich mix- 1 part clay : 1 part straw : 1 part aggregate by volume. Plaster in two thin layers wet on wet rather than one thick layer. I think it also helps that my dome is made of blocks which a pre-shrunk.

Used from Hemp-limespray.co.uk Graham Durrant is a wonderful man he sells them

Yes pls. I also have the the interest

It’s a 3CM a French machine, sold by graham Durrant of Hemp-limespray.co.uk

Yes much harder!!!

I put on 1 pass of plaster then presses the jute mesh into it then plastered the second pass over, so the mesh is in the middle of the coat of plaster. The hemp is shiv/Hurd not fibre, it’s 3mm and down.

It’s deffinately a summer job, the south side took 2 weeks, the north side took 4 weeks.

It’s a Liner FE220 from Multimarque

check out the cork lime plaster

Yes it deffinatley is check out the projects where I have done this on my website www.thathempcreteguy.co.uk

No none at all. These are handmade soft red bricks from HGMatthews in Buckinghamshire.

You need 10 standard blocks per sqm of wall which is roughly 1 block per sqft of wall. So i guess a floor area of 3000sqft would equate to something like 2200 blocks depending on the shape.

Are you in the Uk?

My website is www.thathempcreteguy.co.uk get in touch through the forms submission and I’ll try and help. I built an earth domed building which is on that website in the ‘my work’ page.

It was just a standard push along plate compactor I suppose it would weigh 150kg maybe a bit less.

@@williamstanwix cheers!

I’m not far from Surrey, I’m near Watford. But hemp-lime spray.co.uk works nationally and hempsheds is in London.

350mm plus the 20mm floor finish

Nope

I wouldn’t use the hemp blocks externally for a floor but the glass foam would work well.

No they are on lime mortar ❤

In new builds it’s usually directly in contact with the timber frame and will even aid in drawing excessive moisture *out* of the wood. Moisture regulation is one of hempcrete’s key properties.

What temperature will it get down to?

It’s a Liner FE220 from Multimarque

I have done a little of that which you ask in a new cob barn for use as a workshop, studio and small kitchen. The building has been in use 5 years. The finish in most of the building is no more than cheap, homemade clay paint, over two base coats that are similar in constitution to William's (although, based on what I glimpsed of the cob blocks early in the video, I reckon I might have used a bit more straw). It has worked well, notwithstanding the bits that reveal me to have been a novice. Inside, the plinth walls are 450mm thermalite blocks (stone skin outside) topped with mass cob up to wall plate - I used the same clay mix from skirting height upwards to cover all materials, including some concrete lintels. To bridge the interfaces, where differing materials meet, and in a few spots that I dubbed out the most, I used scrim, mainly hessian and synthetic occasionally. Clay is forgiving, if you keep your workspace tidy you can re-constitute surplus and dropped plaster - just wet and remix if it dries. I think clay could work well on bricks that aren't glazed. On a few walls I began a journey with homemade clay finishing plaster on both the clay render/plaster and on plasterboard. To my surprise they have all held up well and the the only material that I have sized, with anything other than a thin clay slip, is some of the plasterboard, on which I used PVA. That is just about okay but not the best; equivalent dings look and are a bit worse when the finished plaster is on the gypsum rather than the clay render substrate. Experimenting, I think I have learned how to size gypsum with clay slip for slightly more durability (and greener cred.) but it requires being quick, clean and organised to time everything ( like cooking a big roast with all the trimmings). However I don't know how to approach a gypsum skimmed and (perhaps) painted walls, other than stripping back to brick. Next winter I will be working on the interior of my current cob project, a house, and I am going to use a wood wool board instead of plasterboard.

@@adrianfielding4678 Thanks for the sharing your experience!

@@Shveik1000 Have you already done your plastering ?

Yes you can use it on concrete, bricks and gypsum. Over gypsum and concrete you need to use gritty primer, on soft bricks you can paint a slurry of clay and sand as a primer on hard bricks you need a primer.

Usually hempcrete is used with a timber frame although I have done one build which was structural earth blocks on the inside with hemp blocks around the outside as the insulation then bricks outside this as the finish. It worked really well. You would usually put the insulation around the outside and the thermal mass (the earth bocks) on the inside. thathempcreteguy.com/work/earth-dome-with-hempcrete-insulation

@@williamstanwix this is awesome information. Thanks so much for the reply and thanks for the link!