Ya, thats a tough one. I struggled with getting my table made. I’m not a carpenter, lol. I don’t think you can buy one . I was looking at a lot of table options and when I would bring a square to look at them they all had imperfections that wouldn’t matter for everything else. So building it appears the best way, but that takes some thought. I end up using a solid door blank, and some square steel fence posts from Home Depot that I bolted together to make a flat frame to support the door. Then used 4 by 4 s to make legs to support the frame and door. It worked out ok, but was a lot of work. I went with a metal frame because I found that even the best cuts of wood could have a little bend. The steel fence posts were pretty true.

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Thanks!

Hello William, I’m sorry to see this. It’s a beautiful kit that you should have gotten credit and hopefully paid for your efforts as well. I would hope that BUSA would rectify this and give you the credit you deserve. I’m really looking forward to building this kit. I will say that I had some serious fit issues in the current Stingray I am building and the BUSA support was pretty poor, which was very disappointing. Thanks for sharing your experience, maybe BUSA will see this and try to make amends, hopefully.

@JamesRCPlaneTech , thank you , I have built dozens of BUSA planes over the years for me and others , I have several videos on You tube under hoosier dawn patrol that I help start many years ago.. I was never really compensated correctly or get the credit for all that I did for this company .. The 1/6 kit was a very simple design for me ...I was told by Ron to oversize the stab and rudder control surfaces , keep the simetrical wings , and widen the gear for easy taxiing ...Ron Bush was on cloud nine when I built and completed the plane for the building manual to be printed...I did all the die drawings identifying all the stamped parts as I was building plane , instead of drawing plans first , copying die drawings off of plans , waiting months for die drawings to be sent out and Lazer cut , not yet done at BUSA then .....Mark would get the die drawings back and build stamping plates out of them , this making stamping process for parts over and over again cosistantly....David the man I replaced only knew how to build 1 kit a year with his drawn out way of buisness , I worked hard simplified the whole process of designing up to 4 kits ayear .....Ron was I thought happy with me , instead I was fired Feb 4th 2008 till this day I was never given a reason why .....after I was fired they brought back David....sorry to rant and rave , but this was my hard work and dedication to the buisness .... You can see a few of my planes , from 1\4 scale 1/3 scale and my huge 1/2 scale sopwith camel on line .I have flown and won several scale competitions in RC Scale , also finished 2ND PLACE in the world at TOP GUN worlds best scale competition in 2009 .

Hi William, I will check out your channel for sure. Again sorry for what you went through. I really like the BUSA kits. I want to build your Nieuport 17. I got mine on ebay and the seller had all the extras with it, the wheels, decals, pilot and guns, so I couldn’t pass it up. It is an older boxing because the specs on the box are different than those on the info page on their site. For example, the engine spec is smaller on my box than whats on the channel. I have a Saito 45 that I want to use. I also like the larger 1/4 scale Spad and SE5, not sure if you designed those? Again, sorry that you had that horrible experience with them. It doesn’t look good for BUSA to have done this.

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I think in general a little side and down thrust is used on most planes. Its the torque of the motor or engine as well as some aerodynamic stuff that cause the pull to the left and up. My experience is that most kits call for a little side thrust adjustment. Strangely the Stingray that I’m building now has no side or down thrust designed into it. Not sure why. I read some forums, and it appears this is just how it is. So I’ll see how it flys, and if I have to Ill have to add a little shim or washers at the mount .

@@JamesRCPlaneTech I looked into it and it has a lot to do with prop tips creating turbulence in a corkscrew shape - by angling the thrust even a little, that turbulence gets wrapped around the fuselage instead of forced across the wing. Also appears related to gyroscopic precession in turns etc. So I'd agree it's a general principle to be applied to most setups, though there are bound to be rare ones that require no angle. In my own recent testing, (Eflite UltraStik) I found I had added too much angle! The result is the need for too much aileron sub-trim, so it will be interesting to incrementally reduce the angle to find what's optimum for this plane, this motor, this prop. All part of the fun!

Hi, thanks for the tips and the comments. I did some machine shop stuff in high school and my first job was at a tool and die shop . But I don’t remember the details on the 123 blocks, thanks for pointing that out. I bet finding a clamp to use with them would be helpful, lots of tricks and methods in building. The Smoothie was a great kit and it flew really nicely. I can certainly recommend it. It was a fun build. And the price isn’t too bad. Good luck with it, if you choose to build it. Thanks again!

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Nice, those are awesome kits. Im still a little intimidated to start this one. Good luck with your B-25!

Thanks. I have the same P-51 kit and the spitfire that I purchased from Ebay

The kits are very well done with a lot of balsa blocks. To keep it lighter, cut out material from the inside and lightening holes in wing ribs, ect.

I also have a Royal DC-3/C-47 kit that i purchased from an estate sale in southern California along with a bunch of rc stuff, a package deal. The C-47 fuse was started.and i have done some more work on it like repairing some nose damage and sheeted the fuse. Nothing else has been constructed. The kits are pretty muck straight forward, just follow the instructions and refer to the isometric plan views and you will be fine.

Thanks for the tip, I have seen this as well on some of the forums that these build heavy and to lighten it up where you can.

Thanks! Ya, always best to save what you can.

I would like to know what the trimming tool was also

hi, that is a trim tool by Harry Higgley Sullivan RC sells them online, its kinda expensive, but is really nice. here is the link: sullivanproducts.com/product/jft001-jims-film-trimmer/

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Thanks! Ya, sorry, it took so long I had to do time lapse, so its hard to see some of it. Ill try to slow down some next build..

Awesome, thank you! Yep, pvc is fun and easy to throw together in a variety of ways. Also get the foam insulation tubing for pipes, cut it up and its good for padding. Good luck!

Thanks! Much appreciated!

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Thanks! It was a lot of work. Glad its done!

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counter clockwise is the way they typical run. Look at your prop. That will show you the direction the engine needs to turn. The engine may be able to start clockwise but they are not designed for that. Good luck!

@@JamesRCPlaneTech thank you so much! I just got a dynaflite p-40 tiger shark so I gotta learn as much as I can quickly 😂

Nice! Good luck with the build, great kit!

@@JamesRCPlaneTech thank you!! Your help was greatly appreciated

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@@JamesRCPlaneTech ... you're welcome 😊... 😊

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Nice! They made great engines

Thanks, I like any basic mechanical or drafting pencil, sometimes the old school wood ones are just fine😁

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Yep, you have to use the mixture up between the needle and the engine first

Small adjustments, wait, small adjustments wait… it gets there with patience

Thank you so much! Good luck on your building of the plane kit. Take your time, study the plans and instructions, you will do great!

Go to the community tab on my channel, I just put a picture there of the wing side profile showing the CG.

@@JamesRCPlaneTech thank you so much

Great story, glad it turned out good after the rebuild. I find that in general these planes fly pretty good even if there are imperfections. When we were kids, our planes were taped back together, things were out of alignment or bent, and they still flew. Sorry about the OS engine, I have one that the carb got damaged in a wreck. The replacement card was around $90, but I did it because its such a great engine, runs great now.

@@JamesRCPlaneTech I did replace the carb in my 46 and still using it today and it just runs like before. thank you

Ha!

@@JamesRCPlaneTech especially if no one witnessed the incident. I enjoy your work!

Not sure, you can check their website

Thanks, yep always a learning experience

You are right about that, and sorry you crashed yours as well. Its part of the hobby.

@@JamesRCPlaneTech and I crashed the same plane again. Time to repair.

Thanks Marco, it will be fixed and flying soon hopefully!

I try pealing it off with an exacto. Its not easy. I wouldn’t use any chemicals. I think your approach with the heat gun is helpful also. As long as you get most of it off , you can easily apply a new cover.

Thanks. It certainly can be for most of us. Sometimes things happen out of your control, other times it’s pilot error, like this one.