Haha, thanks man

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Really most of the tuning for a cam takes place in the carburetor on one of these setups.

Its a really good setup! Stay tuned.

@Scramspeed I'm subscribed and waiting anxiously. Don't leave us all hanging, lol.

@@tomislavzarak5233 Im sorry for the delay! Please bear with us.

Thanks!

thanks for watching!

With boost, you run at a richer Air/Fuel ratio than you do with a naturally aspirated combination. With nitrous, it is desirable to get as close to the peak HP NA air/fuel ratio as is prudent. In both cases: Timing is the amount of spark lead before TDC. Combustion happens much faster (and bigger) with boost or nitrous, and the spark doesn't need as much lead to light the intake charge is it does in an NA combination. If you give a boosted/nitrous engine the same timing as NA, the combustion takes place before TDC, which is how you blow head gaskets, shatter pistons, bend rods, and put windows in your engine block.

You have to pull timing as boost goes up or it’ll blow up.. lol

This is the first yar with the lower horsepower. That's also a flywheel rating, not rear wheels.

I don't, but if its an aftermarket tach, it is pretty simple. Simply attach the gray wire from the 6014 to the tach RPM input wire. If its a factory tach it gets significantly more complex and is vehicle dependent.

Tony: Glad to help! I think you'll dig it. I absolutely do remember. Good times!

Happy to help! Be sure to check out our other 6014 videos if this one was useful.

It has to be Windows compatible. It can't be a Chromebook. It does not take a lot of PC horsepower to run. You don't need an expensive machine by any stretch.

I run catch cans off of the valley cover on my car, but either way is fine if you have the room. As far as just breathers, it depends on what you're doing and what kind of shape the engine is in. Making a mess of your engine compartment is one thing, putting oil on the track is something else.

Thanks appreciate you..don't mean to ask 100 ?s lol... I know basic sbc sbf carburetor stuff. But new to ls engines. One thing I have learned in life is to ask the people that know. Instead of just guessing..any tips on underdrive pulleys on a budget? Trailblazer torque converter 4.2 for a budget stall ?. I m running 4.8 w.700r4 05 mustang. Spirited street. Might run on drag strip a few times just for fun...thanks again

@@Nathan-i6m I probably wouldn't mess with underdrive pulleys. There are undersized balancers, but they're not really a budget item. The water pump pulleys are also not readily changed. Alternator overdrives are available, but I've tested my car multiple times and the alternator makes zero difference in ET going down the track. I don't know about the viability of going the budget route for a torque converter and how well it would work out. A lot of times that method trades so-so 60' for a lot of slip and heat down track. A good converter, set up for your combination is some of the cheapest ET you will ever buy.

I got use to the old sbf 5.0 .there still $50-$75 steel or aluminum...I guess there's a chevy underdrive pulley conspiracy. Or something 😅. I couldn't find any reasonable for sbc or ls..thanks man

Its a cool looking car! We love the wagons.

Lots of guys have success with blow thru and MSD 6014, bearing in mind the hard boost limit that the MAP is capable of. As far as the Edelbrock goes, that's not a good reason to run the wrong carburetor. So much of how the combination performs is because of the carburetor, you'd be cutting your legs off before you got started. On a turbo LS, a new, good carburetor is not a meaningful expense, especially given the performance differential.

Send me the carb for my sbc and you go buy a new e85 carb that’s a 850cfm would work way better with the turbo plus you’d hook up a sbc friend 😂 giving is friend ship

Thanks man. Georgia's only like 12-15 hours away! haha. If you want, send us an email at [email protected] and maybe I can figure out a way to help you.

It's a big deal, though a lot of people do like to have a tuner to blame! 😄

@@Scramspeed I mean it was that guys fault 😂

I responded to your email. Thanks

Hello: If you attach your computer to the box and use the MSD view software, you can see the timing curves in the application.

​@@Scramspeedthanks for replying. I don't have a laptop yet. Not much on tech stuff. But I'm trying to learn. I was wanting to start with the preset settings on the box. Curious what they were.thanks again

@@Nathan-i6m If you look at our previous video on the software tuning, I go through the preset tables (kind of quickly, but you could freeze frame). kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4uUnaKVrpxmp9k

​@@Scramspeed thanks brother exactly what I was looking for

Thanks man!

Thank you! Let us know if we can help!

Doing the same here .

Awesome! We can definitely help. Let us know!

Sorry to hear about your luck with the EFI. We can make it work. Let us know how we can help.

No, they do not. The MSD will hold on to your tune.

Awesome! You'll like it. If we can help, please let us know.

You're welcome. I hope it helps you!

I will take a look at the newest software. That would be less than ideal. You need to be able to pull the data down to look at it. If it does that, its just going to send whatever is in the computer to the box when you plug it in.

Ive had mine since 2016 without issue. My business partner had his for a similar length of time before selling the car. No issues. Power Tour , Drag Week, autocross, road racing, and used as a daily driver. I'd say they're pretty reliable if you wire them correctly.

@@Scramspeed thank you so much for your time I've seen a couple of KZbin videos that said they're not reliable and you should use Daytona speed sensor instead can't afford the only do it once I need as much reliability as possible as this will be turbocharged they were saying that the map sensor inside the box is not accurate is this true

@@brawler3475.0 These boxes are really reliable, and the MAP sensor works, BUT like I said in one of the other videos, if you exceed the capability of the sensor, timing reverts to the base map, meaning it takes all the retard out of it. which is a good way to blow stuff up if you're running a lot of boost.

@@Scramspeed thank you so much for your time I'm just trying to get the best bang for my buck and the most reliability that I can

@@brawler3475.0 I'm just saying, my 6014 carbed LS is the most reliable 9.0 @ 150mph quarter mile car I've ever had.

Check out our other 6014 videos if you get a chance, as there's some good info there. It depends on what heads you're using, but typically on our dyno, they don't see meaningful gains past 32*.

Thanks man! Hope it helps you.

Thanks for the information! I believe the 6014 is potted, so that woudn't be a concern, but we also prefer to have the box inside the car.

thank you!

Can you email me at [email protected] and I will try to help. Thanks!