@@ionitaalexandru7342 : whoa

@@tattoodave5969 : thanks for watching

@@geraldkincaid9625 yes - you can replace the entire valve or pieces - which ever is easier for you

*Can I test it to connector wires above

@@isinet2813 : 750 mV

@@isinet2813 400-750 mV

@@isinet2813 best to test it at the wiring harness

Thanks! ​@@thewaterheaterfactory

@@raulrivera2182 eBay

Is there a name for the gadget? I could really use something like that

@@princeandroyaltys2478 : I took it out of another valve that I have I work on Water Heaters a lot so I save all the extra parts, especially from the ones that are leaking so I have the parts that I need without having to source them

@@thomasesparza9175 glad to help!

@@thewaterheaterfactory Well, I installed mine this morning and it worked well! My heat gun only had to be applied for less than 60 seconds and it was soft enough to insert the impact socket.

Yes - just drain a little bit of water out of it first so that way the hot water doesn’t rise and come out when you attempt to remove the anode rod

Well, technically, yes, you should change the gasket. But between you and me, I never change the gasket typically it’s not needed in my opinion. I’m sure there’s a slight disruption in the seal but most of the Water Heater haters. I’m working on her so old and decrepit and on their last legs that I don’t even bother to do it, but technically you should always replace the gasket with a new one.

@@thewaterheaterfactory thank you sir.

@@peterford9369 yeah I imagine you could use C. PVC or you could use pex. if you wanted to - they are kind of expensive at $30. The nipples will be hard to remove especially if they’ve been leaking. There’s gonna be a lot of rust sometimes you can put a torch on it and loosen it up that way but it’s a slippery slope because if you put a wrench on the nipple and you shear it off, you’re pretty much screwed.

@thewaterheaterfactory Thanks for responding. Yeah, I've heard putting a pipe or maybe an extractor in the nipple before putting a pipe wrench on it, helps keeping it from crushing it. Honestly, I was thinking, the fact that it is leaking through the threads, it may actually be easier to crank it out. The water has acted like a lubricant, so to speak. I've always heard, you heat, what your trying to expand. In this case, the tank threads. Heating the nipple, would cause it to swell. Logically anyway. Wouldn't be so bad if I was still working. I'd just buy a new one and change it out. But they're so much more expensive now. I paid under 2 hundred for this one back when I installed it. Now, the cheapest 40 gallon ive seen is 400 bucks. Plus copper, I'm looking at 450 bucks. That's almost a third of my SS check each month. That's why I'm hoping I can get this one to stop leaking and maybe get another year out of it. I have extracted broken pipe threads before on car engines and some plumbing. But never a wh tank. Even 50 bucks is better than 450. Anyway, thanks for making that video and responding to many of your viewers. Most utubers don't care enough to do so. 👍👍

@@aaronhugz4277 : oh that sucks man yeah I’m not exactly sure what happened because I didn’t really find any debris. It just seemed like once I kind of cleaned it all out and put it back together. It was working better. I did soak it in a lot of vinegar so I put a bunch of vinegar I think overnight I’m sort of in that catch basin in the dishwasher just to try and kind of dissolve anything.- thanks for watching

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : yeah it’s only a temporary setback. It’s more of an inconvenience, but I’ll do what I Gotta do. I can always get a storage unit and I gotta figure it out. I think we’ll see how it goes.

Thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it. Have a great evening.

@@tmactheplumber4966 I don’t have a dog just a bunch of cats thanks to my ex-girlfriend

@@charliehustle544 : i’m sure one exists, but I’m not aware of its location-

@@jgutierrez559 thanks for watching. Appreciate the comment.

@@user-er7yr9iy2h : yeah that’s a great place to get free parts

@@Ripdizzle01 : yeah I call it the valve, but it’s technically the thermostat and the circuitboard and the valve body in the well housing altogether if you have that high millivolt, you probably need to change the valve body or the valve if you prefer

@@thewaterheaterfactory I have the exact same issue! Getting the thermopile low voltage error, but actual measurement is 650mv. Is the valve body the entire assembly where the mother board is? Is it P/N SP20867B? Great video!

@@afrothetics : you don’t have to use a torques you can use a flathead screwdriver! I appreciate the feedback though and thanks for watching!

Where do you buy the valve?

@@scottswin4236 : there’s a screw on the bottom you remove that then you take a flathead screwdriver and slightly pry back at the top at the two tabs and carefully pull it out straight, but there is a ribbon cable behind it. You’re going to need to disconnect and reconnect that.

@@arnaudleseguillon6270 I appreciate the comment thank you. Have a great evening.

@@rodneyjones4987 series’s

@@adrian3heat : that’s great information thank you appreciate that and explains a lot of service calls that I’ve done where the thermocouple appeared to measure plenty of voltage, then an actuality needed to be replaced. Appreciate you watching the video and commenting. I love learning new legit methods!!!

@@thewaterheaterfactory no problem brother. I'm subscribed learning from u as well as my company doesn't allow us to do much on appliances because we would become a monopoly according to the CPUC. Subscribed 💯

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : the door switch reads the temperature of the combustion chamber, not the water temperature so if the temperature in the combustion chamber where the combustion taking place is too high, it’ll trip

@@thewaterheaterfactory ok got it thanks it said in your video water temp above 180 at 37 seconds in

Update: holes in drain and inlet hoses, rat traps acquired

@@rba5567 : you know what I’m not sure what that ohm reading is. I just know that the left side and the right side have to be equal. I wanna say it’s in the 3000 but it’s been a while. There’s a pretty good video on it. I think it’s on Bradford White,‘s channel page. I have a lot of links to Bradford White, videos on my channel page. If you want to check it out I think it’s under Recomended views.

@thewaterheaterfactory thank you for the Swift response. My Bradford White Water Heater is over 10 years old and I'm getting the five flashes and there's some dripping coming from internal. Since the water heater is over 10 years old it's probably got the Wellhead without the metal covering.

Well, usually when it’s blinking once that means normal operation so I have seen valves that didn’t work properly. That were blinking normal. They just never started up. That usually means the circuitboard is good, but the valve is bad the valve body.

@thewaterheaterfactory Ah okay thank I appreciate your help!

@@duotronic6451 : eBay

@@duotronic6451 : I pull them off of a similarly built Water Heaters so it all has to do with the opening to the combustion chamber so if it’s a Bradford White, that’s doing it on you there isn’t a replacement Burner Assembly but if it’s Ao Smith or Wirlpool, then you can use a similar one, but I have seen them on eBay Amazon

@@duotronic6451 :www.supplyhouse.com/AO-Smith-100093992-Burner-Assembly-for-Natural-Gas

@thewaterheaterfactory Very helpful !!!

@@thewaterheaterfactory Do another video with this info and a compatible gas valve. Lowes return desk has been exchanging lots of new ultra low nox water heaters.

@@yelumarketing : yeah I definitely see a lot more causes in the winter time for the gas valves. Malfunctioning always thought it was temperature related. Maybe it was affecting the gas pressure in the pipes, but it stands the reason the people are running their furnaces. So the Honeywell electronic gas valves are just more sensitive so maybe they just can’t handle you know change in pressure. It was possible for you to swap your Water Heater over to an older type of Rogers white or Ural Valve and then go with a thermal couple instead of a thermal pile. That’ll probably solve your issue permanently. Behave end up doing nothing or just reset it. There is a reset procedure. Maybe maybe write the dates down when you get to Code sevens on the Water Heater then you can cross check them next year. I appreciate you watching the video and commenting. Thank you so much. I got a lot of videos on my channel. I’d say about 85% service calls. And of those service calls about 85% of those are all Honeywell Valve related.

@@thewaterheaterfactory Appreciate the fast response! Mostly on a Sunday night! So the previous owner left a new piece in a box i know because i tore the igniter switch and replaced it with that new one he gave me. Do you think if i replace the computer not what you did cause I'm afraid of working on the pipes end of things tho i know i can just shut off the gas line still... i feel more comfortable just changing the motherboard do you think the new computer will do anything? I reset it btw but i am getting tired of reseting it aha getting up reseting does it again and reset again its becoming a nuisance also i reset it using a piece of aluminum rub on the motherboard and works every time idk how you reset it the way your doing it i found another way ahaha more unprofessional i would say.

@@elijahgoodman3140 : so you take a 9 V battery. Attach one wire to the positive one wire to the negative. After you remove the Valve Cover.. you touch the negative to the bottom prong and the positive to the top left prong then the top right prong and you listen for clicks on each prong. If you get no reaction on either prong than that valve is no good.