how long has it been since you did a 100 hour service on it? that happens with those if the main air seal has gone bad. Those can be particularly terrifying to disassemble when stuck down.

wow, this was a long time ago. yes, avid compatible bleed kits should work. as for the top screw you're referring to, that had to also be removed, but because the knurled flange on the Avid adapter is such a large diameter, it couldn't spin in far enough on that caliper. Hence the mill work. great questions. I should have made a better video during the process instead of just after.

​@insightbike ha! Thanks for the reply even though this was from 3 years ago. I've been putting off my breaks after they seized past year finally said I'd look at them and happy you put this information up! Thanks a bunch!

have you checked the cog or charinring wear, or made sure the jockey pulleys aren't broken or too worn? also, skipping can result from misalignment. Actually dealing with mysterious skipping on two AXS derailleurs now. sorry man, that can be such a headache.

@@insightbikethanks man. My chain was inside-out but I also spent a lot of time afterwards fastidiously checking the status of each jockey wheel and appropriate lubrication, as well as thoroughly checking for stiff links as it was a brand new and freshly waxed chain. I took a while but it almost never skips any more. But also I learned not to change up to the highest gear so quickly. I’m used to riding a fixie so maxing out the torque in the wrong gear has become a habit 😂

Thats still directional. Direction the chain faces not turns (clockwise/anti). I get what you mean, but the meaning is pretty clear when you get a directional chain one side faces in direction, the other out direction, installing it any other way isnt "better or worse" its wrong.

@@geroutathat hehehe you're right that is a kind of direction, and it seems like it's all semantics at this point but it's important to understand the difference. Imagine you have your chain installed, and you draw an arrow on the link at the top of the chainwheel pointing towards the front of the bike. Obviously the side with the arrow is "out" and indicates "forward". You can take the chain off and install it so the arrow is pointing backwards, but still facing out. For these chains it would make no difference. It *only* makes a difference if that arrow is facing the frame, regardless of which way it's pointing. Sorry to nerdsplain to someone who clearly already knows this, but I think it's an easy mistake to make from the wording of the title.

yeah, this isn't the whole bleed, this is stage one, the purge.

The sound is indicative of deteriorating performance. It's time to get an overhaul, new damper and IFP seals, new damper oil. The noise is a symptom but will only get worse.

Well said!

@@insightbike The biggest change from that "rider's perspective" rule of thumb I've seen was DT Swiss' front hub labels - they started doing them backwards. I thought I'd lost my mind the first time I built a front wheel with the "backwards" label. Bothered me so much (you know - OCD and all) I called them and asked about it. The rep told me they started doing that so that when a racer wins and is posing next to his bike, everyone can read the DT Swiss hub from the front. Oh brother....🙄

@@biknjak geez. I’ve had it with DT Swiss. Also, there was a thing with Fox’s U-cup air spring seal where the seal label was on the bottom. I saw a handful of forks come in where the label had been installed on the top, so the u-cup was just burping all the air into the Lower of the fork… lol.

​@@insightbikeHaha! I'd say the biggest thing that melts my mind is the lack of accurate "standards" - which seem to be loose, at best, between different manufacturers (frame sizes in S, M, L/inches/centimeters, for example). Also the mixing of SAE and metric - sometimes on the same component!

@@biknjak 😂 the abundance of “standards” is ridiculous. Nothing is less “standard” than bike industry “standards.” Fox likes to use both imperial and metric on their shocks as a squirrel catcher. There’s just some engineer back there ROFLing at the mayhem. That’s what gets me thru. At least some guy somewhere is laughing at all the useless 27.5” front wheels sitting in somebody else warehouse.

Just stay on top of your battery maintenance, which is really infrequent. Carry a spare AXS battery. Carry a spare CR2032 as well for the shifter. It's pretty dang nice, though I can't afford that stuff.

well, one of these days you'll need this trick. Probably for a stranger.

You're welcome!

It doesn’t appear so.

I hope you didn't have to switch it mid-ride!

@@insightbike yes I did, I could only shift 2 gears at a time (both up and down), it was getting on my neeves. Good thing I have a multitool with quick-link opening function.

He said that

Thought I made a follow up to answer that. Going to have to find another blown axle. Anyway, once you get the parts out I used red-loctite on the quickrelease insert. Make sure not to apply any loctite to the axle itself.

Oh man, when the air seals go out they need to be replaced. They just won’t hold air. Replace the air seals. I might have a video on it. The RP23 uses the same air seals kit as todays DPS. Easy to get the parts. But if you hear sloshing in there that is a damper problem.

If you’re in the USA you could send it to me if you’re unsure how to do the work.

I appreciate, I’m from the Philippines, but its so far from my country, and I don’t know how to fix it. I need some help to solve my problem thank you so much.

Next week! Thanks man

man, been so busy workin on bikes I haven't finished it. I promise. Give me a month.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/goKzdpmErrN7oNksi=cDZp7gxytXCwWzGK next part, third part coming soon

I had a customer's bike and just kept pushing buttons to see what would happen. good results! Thanks for checking it out.

do the blips take the 2032 batteries as well? seems like a good way to have multiple back up batteries in a pinch, and I assume you can use the blips alongside the regular shifters correct?

@@pauleichner8831 I have no idea what type of battery is inside the blips, they were replaced under warranty, in two years I will try to open them and I will be able to tell you, in any case you can use them together with the standard control

I think you ought to get that fixed as soon as you can. There's is the off chance that the first few strokes the oil can actually impact the damper circuit and damage it. but that would be a severe situation. The other factor is safety, rebound control will be limited and you might find your shock trying to buck you. Feel free to reach out. My turn around time in house on these is about 2 days. - Eric

From what I've seen all DpX2's IFP depths are 38mm/1.5". I haven't had a single one that is different. Sorry for the late reply!

Thank you!

have you found a fix yet?

@@insightbike Replaced the battery under the left hood. Delete, update, reinstall,,, I might have done it wrong😂 according exact spec but getting them all to blink/sink simultaneously relied on me holding down both, right and left small sink buttons at the same time so it was just a bit fiddly. The group is so good so often, by the time I need to tweak it, I have forgotten and would also need to update anyways.

yep. But that's not stopping folks from rebeling.

So many of us wishing we had read the instructions before throwing away the packaging.

It’s a potential. But who knows. I don’t think anyone has done that.

yes, The damper stroke on these accommodates up to 180mm of travel, and basically down to about 120mm, I believe. They used to have a bottom-out valve but not sure about that anymore. So that would matter only in the last 10mm of the stroke. The damper really doesn't create a ton of pressure. The Grip series damper purges any additional pressure which is why it's so much better than the FIT dampers. If you want to do it right, and have a FIT damper, it would be good to bleed off some oil by setting the new stroke length and even subtracting 20mm of stroke before capping it off. For example, if you set the for to 120 travel, bleed the damper to 100mm travel. Once capped, extend to the 120mm mark and you won't have the excessive build up of bladder pressure.

This is true. 9 speed and lower are multi-directional.

I'm glad you found this video. SRAM has some intelligent engineers, some of the most brilliant equipment I see is coming from them. Glad you saved the ride!

I'm sorry, i don't recall which pads they use, but i think they were this one: perfectbrakes.com/bicycle/promax/decipher/HYDRAULIC/4000240 worth double checking when you pull yours out.

I'm unsure on that as I don't service X2's. Ideally it should but you might contact Enduro to be sure.

He states this incorrectly which leads to your confusion. The chain ISNT directional. There is an inside and an outside.

Thank you. Trying to handle that at the moment actually! My shop and bike school are Insight Bike Works. So it will likely change to that.

The arrow will face the rear when it’s on the bottom and face the front when on top. Another way to think about it is the arrow points to direction of travel when pedalling.

What if the master link isn't on the chain when you get it? Are you sure this isn't just the direction of the master link you're talking about? Also... you seem to be refuting the instructions on the packet clearly visible at 0:42?

You have a great riding partner there.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/goKzdpmErrN7oNksi=cDZp7gxytXCwWzGK next part, third part coming soon

This is something that I should explain in the video. Thanks for bringing it up. Not only is it in the instructions for every bleed process for brakes, but functionally it remains unexplained. What this technique does is eliminate unnecessary pressure on the bladder and ensures the proper volume of fluid for the brake system. If the lever is not pulled when the bleed port is capped, there will be enough extra volume to create issues with pad spacing, especially on older brakes. Hope that helps!

@@insightbike nice! Thanks for replying, this will be very useful.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it's a helpful video! I will do this if i lost a lot fluid as well. If I pump the lever once, and don't see some fluid at the bleed port, this is when I need to top it off but I try to avoid getting in that scenario by making sure the syringe isn't in vacuum state when I detach it. It's not always full proof but most of the time it works for me.

​@@insightbikethanks!. I always wait a couple minutes until the system stabilizes to then detach the syringe, but cant stop it from losing a lot of oil through the bleed port. I believe im not doing this the right way. Hows that you make sure the syringe is not in vacuum mode?

@@hillsidewoods you may have pressure locked in the syringe. Generally that fluid you’re losing when you detach the bleeder is coming out of the syringe. The consumer version of SRAMs bleed kit has a rubber gasket on the plunger and this can act as a bladder. Very often using that kit you’ll have syringe spill, but that’s not coming from the master cylinder. The Pro version of the kit doesn’t use the gasket. If you bleed a lot of sram brakes the pro kit is a worthwhile upgrade.

@@hillsidewoods also, to be sure the syringe isn’t in vacuum, press the plunger and push plugs into the lever until the pressure hits a wall. The syringe will regulate the fluid level to a degree. But there will probably be some back pressure and some will spill anyway when you disconnect.

@@insightbike thanks vm for the tips! Very helpful!