@@wolfgang6028 the heater pins (not the coolant sensor) I measure 15.3 Ohms on my old thermostat assembly. Check the scale setting on your meter. Good luck

@ thanks very much for confirming, this is helping a lot in my troubleshoot course. Since I see no ohms near to around 15, I can only hope that it’s not the dme shooting every thermostat I connect

@@NikkiHamilton-n5z Sorry, did the video before I had a tripod. Needed two hands. There really isn’t much too it, scarier than it actually is.

@@DanBower-j9h Sure thing, follow the manual when in doubt

@@bertjesklotepino I miss the simpler days 😞

@@bertjesklotepino I had trouble bleeding through the bleed valve. I never got coolant to bleed out. Pulling a vacuum worked. I changed the crossover tube which I think made an air bubble at the impeller so basically the impeller was just spinning air and could never move the bubble. Good luck

@@mcmcminicooper thanks, that makes sense. My brother has a car like this, and he asked me to put in a new thermostat for him. And so i did. Before i did so, the car heater did not get warm. And the fan kept running after switching off the engine. And it even started running prior to starting the engine. NOW after i replaced the thermostat and with a new sensor, the car heater gets hot again. BUT the fan does not seem to want to start. Maybe, just maybe the temperature of the coolant was not yet hot enough for the fan to start..... Or, i mixed up the cables and accidentally switched 2 connectors (although it is highly unlikely because i did take a picture., but maybe i did....) The fan worked prior to the installation of the new thermostat, al be it that it kept running and started running even with a cold engine. I have seen videos in which they say it is the fan that is broken. What do you think? And, if i did mix up a connector, just try to switch em around to see what it does or??? If you have any idea, it would be greatly appreciated. Thx for these replies and in advance for any other reply.

@ I’m not in town but will check once back home but I don’t think those two connectors can be switched because they are keyed. The engine fan will come on if the AC is on regardless if the engine is cool. It is blowing air over the AC coils.

@@mcmcminicooper First of all: I apologize for writing you a book. But i really do appreciate your responses. Muchos Gracias Right. I did not realize that the fan would come on if the AC is on. Have to check this out. As for the 2 connectors.... I have seen a guy replace his thermostat and for to make it easier he pulled the wire harness out of the way. As in: all the spark plugs and connectors. From left to right, basically. He marked some with a dot, to make sure he would not mix em up. 1 of my connectors was marked as well, and i took a picture. And i did put it back where it was on the picture. But it looks very similar to the other connector close to it. And i have no clue if you can switch em. If they are keyed, then no way indeed. But if not, they might have been switched around by other people. (since i put it back where it was on the picture)... There was a leakage some 300 miles ago. The plastic tube behind the engine was old and had ruptured. So, my brother took it to the garage and they replaced this pipe. That is the only time i can imagine that they might have switched the connectors. BUT, i will check if they are keyed to make sure if it is even possible to switch em. They do look the same. 2 wire connectors. Anyway, if it is possible to switch em around, i can not imagine that this would damage the fan. But could it prevent the fan from kicking in at the right moment? I think it could. At the moment the fan does not start spinning, not low and not high. (but have to check with AC on etc.) I really hope this fan has not died on me , because that is another 200 euro or so. And, there is sludge on the oil cap and in a breather pipe ontop of the engine, which to me says that there is a leak somewhere. And if that is the case, i wonder if it is worth replacing the fan. Btw, this is gonna sound stupid, but what about switching the hoses that go to your heater in the car. What would the problem be if you switched them around? No heat in the car? I forgot to mark em and put em back on the way i remembered, but i could have made a mistake there.... This will be all, sir, for sure. Otherwise i would start to look like a troll. Btw, i did not see the x ray portion of the vid. Cool stuff. Wish i had the tech to do that kinda stuff.

@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf Send me a link for the aluminum version please.

@ that’s for the n18 but they have one for the n14 and n16 as well

@@LucasGstreet maybe I’m confusing it. The way I believe it works is the thermostat opens and closes when the wax heats up or cools. So it’s a mechanical thermostat. The heater in the thermostat is there to heat the engine coolant only when it’s cold to get the engine to nominal temperature. Once the coolant gets to the ideal temperature the engine likes running at, the heater turns off. I also think if you turn the heat on in the car and if the engine is cold, the heater in the thermostat turns on too to get heat faster in the car. The 12V comes from a relay that is controlled by the ecu. Hope I’m not confusing things

@ I replace a new thermostat in 2012 mini countryman and still the same problème the water rises from the reservoir and still cold how i can know that the termostat open ?

@ the water rises in the reservoir and STILL. COLD coolant?

@ yes that What happening

@@LucasGstreet I am puzzled. I can only guess the water coolant impeller is not spinning

@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf I’ve been tracking my analog water temperature gauge for a while. It reads about 5-10 F higher than the temperature sensor at the thermostat. I’ve been think of installing a potentiometer (variable resistor) in series to Marshall temperature sensor to tweak the signal. I’ll do a future video on this. Good luck

@ quick question? I also have a volt gauge and the signal wire needs to be connected to a switched 12v plus. But I’m wondering if that also needs a 1amp fuse on the wire since it needs to be tapped into a switch 12v plus even though it’s the signal wire?

@ Doesn’t hurt to add the 1 A fuse. If it’s signal, it’s probably limited in current anyways

@@MilosDjStanojevic Not 100% sure I understand the question. The thermostat is opening and closing is a mechanical device. The sensor is for the computer which basically lights the warning light if it exceeds high temperature or if the engine doesn’t heat up fast enough. I had the thermostat stuck close (overheating) or stuck open (engine not warming). Good luck

@ then what role does the thermostat heater have ? when does it turn on?

@ great question. I thought it turned on when the engine was very cold. The Mini engine runs very inefficiently when cold and I thought if the coolant was below a specific temperature, it turns on the heater to speed up the warming of the engine. Once the engine gets to a temperature, the heater turns off. Since cold out, I’ll test this to see if this true. Look for a future video. Thanks for the question. Good luck

@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf That ground is good. I’ve not had any problems with the gauges. Always double check using an Ohm meter. You should be less than 1 Ohm for a good ground. Body to battery negative.

@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf Later in other projects, I saw a good ground on the fire wall. Can’t remember exactly but it was an obvious ground to body. Good luck

@@dogdazed84 I had that same question earlier after making this video so I measured the temperatures at the propane tank just to be sure I don’t blow myself up. I made a video on this but spoiler alert at 50F ambient, I measured about 17F (68F) higher at the tank. Since I only use the heater when it’s cold in the garage, I’m probably ok with it being this close. Good luck. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpS9daSOgZesq9E&si=QSl9oXbNyvNNIBOS

@@tm5346 I have not had either of those codes reappear since clearing them. Crossing my fingers that it was a one time fluke. Good luck

@@mcmcminicooperyes x them no doubt! Happy holidays thanks for the videos

I've taken that center console off so many times I got tired of filming it. Sorry about that. Here is an earlier video in replacing the lighter with a USB charger port that may be helpful. Good Luck kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2rCioNnbb5nldk

@@karakarlos the brand new thermostat assembly I got from Rockauto (not OEM) really acted up since I installed a couple years ago. It was really slow at opening. It wouldn’t open until 220 - 225 F then it decided not to open and the overheating engine light came on. After a couple of hot engine temp, it became stuck open and temps never exceeded 180 F (never worried overheating in the hot summer months). Then this year, the first outside temperature drop to 32 F, the thermostat started working again. It sort of fixed itself. I’ve monitoring the engine temperature with my analog gauge and the OBII port. If I run the heat, which draws the heat from the coolant, the engine never get to temp fast enough and I get an engine code “not reaching temp”. At other times, engine get to 215-220F thermostat before it opens and temp drops to 200 F and engine temp stays level. So it is sort of opening and closing “normally”. It’s as if the thermostat needed to be temperature “shocked” to get it working properly. Sorry for the long reply. Good luck

@@mcmcminicooper Thanks for your reply. Indeed, I think the thermostat is blocked due to overheating. I have ordered a new thermostat and will check afterwards that everything is OK. After changing the pulley, tensioner, water pump and thermostat, if the engine continues to overheat it will probably be the cylinder head that is faulty. I keep my fingers crossed 😅 Bye

@@maliknexus warning light was able to be cleared and never came back after I replaced the MAF sensor.

@@tm5346 I’m finding Mini we’re not designed to last over 100k miles. I call it the Harbor Freights of cars

@@King_jordan97 I have no experience with reinstalling air bags. Sorry

@@mondrauljernigan5366 MAF is the easiest to check first. Good luck

Thank you for videos again

@@sindalgraff Is there normally a screen to keep leaves and bugs from getting in when the flap is open?

Nothing like that, seemingly the cabin filter does that job. Strangely on the Mini part finder diagram it does identify an air duct and water deflector that fits in the engine bay side but I have no idea how it would be installed behind or around the battery. I only discovered this information as my wife said her car kept steaming up. Upon investigation it transpired the actuator had failed and the flap was stuck in the cabin recirculation position (flap covering the aperture on the battery side)

@@RogerBlair Awesome, I grease maintenance every year now.

@@ptegler Thanks, when I first got notice of this it didn’t say the reason but other comments hinted to windshield seal also.