I guess you can do that, but just the replacement part is 200$. I can't assume an entire replacement would be cheap looks to be 700$-1200$ reman. If I can spend a few hours and replace the part and save 500$+ I am going to do it. Are there cheap ones out there?

I make them detailed to hope it makes other people's lives easier. Always nice having a go-by when doing stuff. Good luck and hope it goes smooth.

Correct. you are just creating another load on circuit to draw more current. Essentially negating the fact you put in a LED and drawing the extra current. Just make sure one you use mall mounting screws. Too long and they will go through your headliner. Also, make sure you put the wires on the other side. That joker gets hot.

Yes sir, no problems.

Mine didn't... Everything worked fine until the 3rd break light, I'll figure it out one day. Checked my fuze it's all good, @@HangryAngler

@@HangryAnglerwas the problem intermittent?

@@fintansky9369 No mine was all the time. I could put the old non-led light back in and the cruise control would work. THe LED needs a resistor to work. Just needs to draw more current.

Is it like a resistor would be needed on ALL break lights if they are LED for the cruise to work? Not getting a fast flash when signaling.

If you have seen one broken apart or where you did this please link a video. I have never seen this done on these type of motors. I have no idea where/how you grease sealed bearings without destroying the unit. See comment below by @diverbob8 who came to the same conclusion as me.

Both the title and vin number state 2008.

You're right. From an angle it looked like the previous generation. But it actually is a 2008. My bad. Jeje

Do you have a picture of the fork tool? I have never seen that. Always looking to make my life easier.

I just saw your two comments. Seems like you were able to stop the dripping. The bottom hole does not get anything. That is outlet. If you think of the bonnet like a normal valve tightening up stops stem leakage. Here it could stop dripping if everything is severely worn or if very, very loose during assembly. That should not be the issue though normally on a new replacement parts. Might want to put in your other comment what you did so everybody knows.

I don't have a personal remedy for that. My vehicle did not have any codes afterwards as seen in the video. Did you make sure to plug the connector back in for the steering wheel underneath after installing? Did you remove the negative to the battery before starting? I would reset the light via a reader and leave the negative off for a few hours. If that doesn't work they you can drain the ECM so it resets and relearns that may be your best bet. Again I didn't have that issue though.

He saw something. I couldn't figure it out. My gun isn't wrapped or camo so that is a good possibility.

First question, did your shower have hot water before? Second question, if the first answer is yes. Did you adjust the screw for limiting the hot water? There is a screw that I point out in the video that limits the hot temperature of your water. It is used to prevent children from burning themselves. Make sure that is unscrewed all the way so the knob turns all the way.

@@HangryAngler yes and yes

My flapper was leaking by. The plastic connector for the handle was cracked. That is why I replaced all the guts. What do you mean by leaking? Leaking in the tank or on to the floor where the tank meets the bottom?

@HangryAngler the tank is leaking near the tank to bowl bolts. Changed the bolts but it was still leaking. Noticed the gasket on bottom of tank was worn but hard to find a replacement

Sorry to hear this. I would check all the pictures you took before disconnecting parts to ensure you placed the new parts back in as it was originally. If you don't have a mm I would just send back the new parts and have the supplier send you a new set. I tried to make a video since most people don't own a multimeter to fix their dryer. If you do have a multimeter you can always compare the readings to the parts you removed as I showed in the video.

@@HangryAngler yeah I tested everything with a meter and all the parts were good. I tried every way you could hook the wires up and nothing so screw it. God takes no breaks on me.

It has been a while but I am 99% sure mine were 14mm. Yes, when I bought the package I bought they came as a pair. I would just change them out. Glad this helped you, my goal has always been to make others life easier and to know what they are getting into. Cheers mate.

I assume you are asking if you can just replace the strut and not the mount. Yes, you can just replace the strut and not the mount in the way you indicated in your comment. I didn't do that as the strut mounts were the original strut mounts and the vehicle has 165K+ miles. So instead of having issues later I went ahead and replaced the mounts. Hope that makes sense.

Glad to hear it was able to help you. I placed the motor link of what I bought in the caption. I believe if you reach out to the company they could probably supply you their part number for the belly band. I think I bought the belly band from another site due to supply. I don't have the exact information, but believe the below is what I bought. BEFORE BUYING THE BELLY BAND YOU SHOULD CONFIRM. Good luck! www.cshincorporated.com/5k002-genteq-belly-band-mounting-kit/?msclkid=e898eea1d3a714ef63a78a620250744a&**LP%20Shop%20-%20Catch%20All&Catch%20All

Glad it helped. I love Belize!, can't wait to go back.

Correct. If there is nothing wrong with your ocular assembly I would assume you wouldn't disassemble it. Mine was blurry and foggy inside. Assume mine was already ruined.

How is the difference between now vs. prior, when in use? I just rewatched your vid right now and heard you mention that it may not have even been purged for it’s time. I’m only asking because I, myself am also a major collector and user of the different variations of the vintage steel tubes and can’t find a whole lot of people online w/ decent knowledge on them. Maybe you can answer my question, but I have two model C4, one C6, and a K6 that I plan on mounting onto a few period correct specs. The problem is that the two C4 scopes and the one C6 came w/ a few very light scuffs and attached to the “.22 tipoff” mount. I want to remove the mounts, but w/out damaging or completely destroying them, like a few other people have recommended I do. They aren’t my fav style, but would rather resell or keep as vintage collectable/ emergency backup mount. If there is w/out a doubt no other way of removal, other that breaking the mount off, then I understand and will do it, as the plan is to mount all 3, as well as the K6 on the vintage Weaver side mounts. The C6 and possibly one of the C4 are going on Carcano specs I’m building eventually. Once removed “or broken” from the tipoff mount, what do you recommed I do to restore original steel tube to new-like quality, and can the C series fit on the N4 Weaver side mount?

I hope it helps.

Yeah a lift would make it so easy. That is going to be in my dream garage for sure one day. Glad the video helped out.

Didn't mean to make it seem that way. Was it the way I was recording it? Just hard trying to hold the camera and record while you do it, and makes it take twice as long.

You got that right Mrs. Fralin.

Good eye. It is the 1100, 2-3/4. Yeah he came in right when I was getting re-situated. First time ever solo filming. Only had him on camera for 10 seconds at the end. Def a big learning curve doing it by yourself.

I am unsure on that question. I didn’t do that, but if you don’t mind driving without power steering then it shouldn’t matter. You can find the part on Amazon and elsewhere. Just put in the part number. Yeah Mazda places were saying out of stock too and double the price of aftermarket.