Traditionally that’s what shells manufacturers use, but the high brass is not necessary, just a tradition/marketing choice.

It would definitely be helpful! Also agreed, mine is a Pre-82 model though. Would it be compatible?

If I was comparing point of impact, perhaps. This was to show two commonly available at Walmart loadings side by side.

Yep, that’s exactly what I did with mine! Depending on how much accuracy you want, I’d check out the barrels offered by BoreBuddy first before a CMMG one. They install the exact same way, but in my experience the bore buddy options have way better accuracy than the CMMG. The first CMMG one I got I had to send back because the accuracy was that bad. Currently I have 2 uppers-one has a CMMG 16” 22 barrel in it and I use it for plinking and run and gun training. The other has a borebuddy match barrel and will do one ragged hole at 50 yards. Video below ⬇️ kzbin.info/www/bejne/enfIpKeQbaesjpYsi=lTpLKWEzAJvwpzcZ

borebuddy.com/product-category/barrels/ These are the barrels I recommend highly

@thereloadingcraft oh wow that match barrel is great. Maybe I'll have to up the budget a bit then. Looking to do a 16" trainer as I have a plethora of ammo and would like to get the wife and kids fluent on the platform. So you're saying I'm good with the barrel only option(s) then, correct? Just use the cmmg bolt parts and ill be square? I appreciate your time and efforts, buddy

Yep, you can use the CMMG conversion bolt parts, just swap the conversion nose for a dedicated AR-22 bcg nose, add a barrel, charging handle, and mate to a lower. I also have the BetterMag adapter in the lower so it can use M&P 15-22 mags, but you can run standard CMMG mags in a standard lower. I’ve also got the BoreBuddy bolt weight kit in, which helps a lot but isn’t mandatory. Let me link the build video here quick (although the build video is of my other upper with the CMMG barrel, I go into more of the BCG details.)

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZy7hKt6ncRgfpIsi=XaBeJaD308udf0cK Here’s the other build video I did a while back, this may help

The main ports are horizontal. This is a hybrid brake/comp. The big brake ports are horizontal to help with recoil, with smaller holes on the top to help with muzzle rise.

1,000% AGREE when it comes to 'standard' ammo. But if you have a not so popular caliber, as I do (41 mag).. reloading is cheaper and has a better selection of loads.

@@Eric-gi9kg I agree totally with you there. Even with the increased Propellant/Primer costs, loading for .30WCF, .300 and .338 Win Mags or the very hard to find 38-70 Winchester I've got, the cost savings is still at least 50% less than Factory Loads in those and many other calibers. I used to teach an Intro to Reloading Course at our local Shooting Club/Range til CoVid stopped us from offering the class. The biggest investment is in your equipment. Though it's still possible to do the shoebox approach to Reloading with Lee and Lyman portable tools and presses. That's how I got into Reloading back in '78 with a Lee Loader in .38 Special (It's still kicking around in its original paper box somewhere in the attic LOL). I quickly graduated to a Single Stage Press, and I still reload on a single stage. Mainly because, as often as I shoot, I still don't shoot enough to invest in a Progressive Press. It would take the rest of my life to get a return on the equipment investment, and that was something we discussed in the very first class in the classes I ran. One of the discussions highlighted that for the most popular calibers in America today, 9 Para, .45 ACP and 5.56/.223 Rem, it's not the cost savings, but the reliability, consistency and accuracy your aiming for, which in those calibers, is negligible in the current market. Lke you, I enjoy the process of reloading almost as much as I do shooting. The attention to detail required to craft the perfect load for whatever gun I'm loading for satisfies my inner Autistic/OCD kid, like no other activity. You can tell a dedicated Reloader by looking at his/her manuals. By each caliber's load data chart, there will be copious handwritten notes in the margins or notecards taped to the pages. One thing is for certain, Reloading is Addictive LOL.

@@matthunter1667 When I first started reloading, it was for the cost savings, but the Hobby is Addictive. Now, it's not so much the cost savings, but crafting that perfect load for reliability, consistency and accuracy for each gun I reload for.

It will not interfere at all, it will work in any mil spec upper, doesn’t have to be a slick side.

@@thereloadingcraft TY

No problem!

If you can find 35remington

@@crazyjoe7998 yea I reaload it for know. Got one few years ago with some ammo from family member that passed away. And all my family has 35rem so I got must of their brass so set for awhile.

@@jamespugh let me know if you need any lever revolution powder

But 30-40 Krag isn’t cheap but you could load it for less than $1 per round 😉

A lot of 22 comes that way, particularly match ammo.

Those of us who don't want 6" groups at 50 yards.

@@G19Jeeper That’s a shooter problem, not an ammo problem.

Actually as someone who’s tested quite a few lots of 22 ammo, including over a chrono, it’s not just a shooter problem. Bulk pack 22 ammo has significantly more fliers, larger SD’s in velocity, and more bullet deformation resulting in less consistency.

@@slothoner6946 no, it's actually a well known fact that a lot of bulk ammo is meant to be blasting ammo. I've done extensive testing in a benchrest gun and across the board bulk ammo is inconsistent at best. Even some boxed ammo is bad but all bulk packaged 22LR I have tested was mediocre at its best. Federal AutoMatch was the most precise but even it would throw flyers. In the world of rimfire, boxed match ammo is king. I emplore you to take your most accurate rifle to the range this weekend and shoot for groups at 100 yards and see what you come up with. My CZ prefers the old Eley Primed Aguila 40 gr for cheaper stuff, SK match is quite good for about $10 and Fiocchi Winter is the high end stuff at $1/rd.

Hopefully you got a decent lot of them, I know I didn’t 😕

What do you mean?

Yep! Personally I will stick to my AA’s or STS’s or Remingtons, all low brass. Thanks for the comment! 😎

The heaviest of crimps won’t fix bad neck tension.

Thank you!

Some sizing dies don’t have a long enough extraction stroke to fully push out high brass shells. You’ll have to pull them out manually the rest of the way, or use a dedicated collet type sizer.

@@thereloadingcraft Thank you

No problem!

Assuming you’re using the same wads, be careful. Federal hulls are straight internally, while Winchester and Remington are thicker at the base and taper thin out towards the mouth of the hull. Techncially speaking the Winchester and Remington hulls have less case volume, and your wads (assuming you’re using wads made for straight walled cases and not tapered wads) might not be seating all the way down as far as they’re supposed to go. Does that make sense?

@@thereloadingcraft yep. I know I'm using straight wads. I didn't realize that they had different shapes. That explains why it felt like I was over filling them.

That would most likely be the cause, then. A simple swap to tapered wads ought to fix it just fine.

@@thereloadingcraft thank you

Happy to help! Thanks for watching!

If I could actually find some in stock I might haha

Haha, third time is a charm tho 😉

Exactly!

I’m assuming the same, depending on how they’re made. Probably less machining time for sure.

You can either oven cure or air cure with Alumahyde.

@@thereloadingcraft so I can jus let it sit in the sun

@DonnelWilson-sf8hn yes, that does help. Otherwise I think the non-baked cure time is 10-14 days to full hardness

Haven’t tested that yet, but I guess there’s only one way to know!

Print off one of those clips you did for your drills, spray it, and then maybe clip and unclip your drills on it 100x vs a non-coated and check wearing?

Yep, and it was easy to see the impact variation too. I was very dissappointed

Alumahyde 2 is an Epoxy that can be either air cured or oven cured. Rust oleum is typically either an enamel or acrylic enamel. Alumahyde is more abrasion resistant and much more chemical resistant than a regular rattle-can style paint like most Rust-Oleum’s.

@@thereloadingcraft right on

Haha, I may have to run a sheet off on our plotter at work and see how I do 😜 It’s absolutely a fun one to shoot, and thanks for watching!