@@THEMilkSHAIKH yes it is

You'll most likely need to drop the exhaust, at least partially, but you should be able to leave the control arms attached to the knuckles and just drop the subframe as is. Oh also the sway bar will have to come off as well.

@@AutoFixYT thank you very much

Yeah kinda true haha

That's weird, the link to the product must have changed. I updated it and now you should see the one I actually used in the video.

White smoke from the exhaust is a cause of burning coolant usually. But don't confuse it for steam in cold weather. Steam is normal. It dissipates into the air. Coolant burning smoke is thick and lingers, looks like the car is puffing out a cloud usually. A leaking valve cover can cause smoke only in the engine bay when it gets on the exhaust and starts burning. At that point it will look like oil burning smoke and will smell really bad like oil as well. Opening the hood you should see lots of oil everywhere if that is the case.

That sounds like an issue you were having with the LEDs you purchased. I've never heard of that happening. I've had many brands of LEDs, and so many people here in the US convert and never have that issue. As for blinding others, I think you missed the entire point of this video. You blind others when you don't do it right. But done right, they should work like factory! I have successfully converted many cars that look like they now have factory LEDs. This video was meant to help others achieve the same results.

@@raceforpride check Amazon for thr pricing

@@freebehindbars8654 more important on halogen but yes.

Yes hahaha thank you 😄

Awesome, I'm glad this video helped!

You do realize this video is 7 years old right? Lol things have changed in my videos since. But thank you for the input. Glad it still helped though!

Yes there are signs. Basically when the ball joint is old and gets worn out, don't keep driving. The most common ones are going to be creaking when turning, you'll feel it in the floor and the steering wheel. That's the ball joint socket rubbing dry on the ball joint ball part of the stud. Another sign is play. When you check your vehicle over, if you find the lower ball joint has play and allows the knuckle to wiggle up and down, replace it as soon as possible. That's an air gap in the ball and socket joint which is supposed to be tight. A torn ball joint boot can lead to both of those issues, so if you see a torn boot, replace the ball joint even if it's still tight and greased up. It will soon go bad from debris and water getting in there.

@AutoFixYT Thank you very much

Thank you!

Awesome!

Thank you! I love LEDs and I think upgrading older cars to LED headlights completely changes your driving experience at night. BUT... you have to do it or otherwise you're just wasting your time and money, and getting frustrated at the bulbs. So that's why i made this video, hoping to share some knowledge with people that want to make the switch but are afraid to because they don't know how to do it, or people that have tried and failed and can now try again successfully.

No, my lights are installed correctly and adjusted. Other people that don't know how to use LED bulbs correctly are the ones blinding people (including me). Check out my other video on correctly installing LED bulbs and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Lol

That's crazy! If any of the circuits are not good anymore, you'll have to replace the GEM or get another one to piece one good one together

@@kidicarus2637 no issues at all

It's ok to do it by hand. The only thing there is that it can start pulling tension off of the tensioner, therefore can create slack on the other side and unsync the cams and crank. But if you ever see in any procedure on any engine that it says to go the opposite way, go by that. The process was designed with that step in mind and everything will be ok. If you ever rotate the engine while the belt is off, that's ok too. Just remember that if the crank ever rotates easily and then stops, that's because the piston is hitting a valve. Don't force it, back it off and adjust the cam to make space for the pistons to finish their travel.

It is recommended to replace the head bolts, I would personally not reuse them. If you install ARP studs with nuts, those are reusable.

Nice

I can't show a video but there are multiple ways. 1. Flush the braking system manually like bleeding the brakes until fresh fluid comes though the calipers. Then find a dirt road and hit the brakes hard so ABS can engage, do this 5-10 times. Then go back home and bleed brakes again. Repeat this as long as it takes until you have clean fluid in the ABS and no air bubbles, and your pedal feels good. 2. Use a scan tool that can communicate with the ABS module.

@@AutoFixYT Thank you for your reply. Can I use the bleeding method with a transparent hose that has a non-return valve? I saw a video on YT, a guy sucked the old fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir with a syringe. Then he added new fluid to the maximum level. Then he started at the farthest wheel and put a transparent tube with a non-return valve on the breather. The other end of this tube was placed in a bottle of brake fluid. He unscrewed the bleeder and pumped the brake 17 times until clean fluid flowed through the hose. He constantly checked the fluid level in the expansion tank. Then he turned off the bleeder and moved on to the next wheel. My car is old but I don't want to do anything that could damage the ABS. After this method, will the entire system be bled, including the ABS? Do I have to remove the fuse or the ABS relay to replace the brake fluid?

Oh no! That's bad!

Thank you!

@Love4raine no, that only applies to turn signals so they don't hyperflash. Even those, you can replace the relay and skip the resistor.

Yes.

No, all you need to is to reach the bottom of the window so just push the plastic away until you can fit a wrench in there