1MZ-FE Timing Belt & Water Pump // '94-'03 Toyota Camry, Solara, Avalon, Sienna & Lexus ES300, RX300

[@josephsuste1394]

The Haynes Repair Manual says “Do not attempt this procedure unless you are highly experienced . . . They obviously didn’t know about this Auto Fix video. I’m an amateur mechanic, I did it successfully. I owe my success to this video. Follow the video step by step and you can do it too. Thank you Auto Fix!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! That's what this is all about! Glad you got it done and it all worked out.

[@elwoodwilliams5665]

You did a great job!!! Very clear language & excellent lighting. The only think that I would change is the alignment of the new belt on the cams. There are 3 lines on the new timing belt. The should align with the timing marks on the front/rear cams & bottom TDC marks. The arrows on the belt should be on the crankshaft sprocket, not on the cams. This makes it easier to know if you are off a tooth during belt installation. I always mark my old belt at these 3 locations before removal so I can compare with the new belt. Also if you have the arrows on belt in wrong direction the timing lines on belt will be off 2 teeth. I just changed timing belt today on my V6 Camry & referenced your video. Thanks for a great video.

[@AutoFixYT]

Awesome, thanks for sharing this! I always want to hear other peoples input and I will definitely keep this in mind for next time. Thanks!

[@AutoFixYT]

It should be pointing clockwise.

[@nategmaycock9398]

I purchased the cam holding tool just for this job ... then I found so many uses for it on other cars after .... even modified it to use it for crank bolt removal . Well done on this job .

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah it's a pretty handy tool to have! Maybe one day I'll get one myself haha And thank you!

[@nategmaycock9398]

@@AutoFixYT I need the subaru cam sprocket tool ... know where I can find it cheap ? Lol

[@AutoFixYT]

@@nategmaycock9398 Amazon maybe?

[@frank4400]

EXCEPTIONAL VIDEO! EXCELLENT DETAILED EXPLANATION OF EVERY PART REMOVED, ITS PURPOSE INCLUDING TORQUE SPECS WHEN RE-INSTALLING AND TIPS. THANK YOU FOR A GREAT DIY VIDEO! YOU MAKE A DIFFICULT JOB SIMPLE

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@ThePoiMechanic]

What a fantastic video. I do some videos on mechanics myself and try to be as concise as possible but you are the king at that. After 20 years of being a professional mechanic I still watch these videos to do a job and this is probably the best one I've ever seen. Appreciate that you don't tell a 10-hour story of your life before getting started like so many other KZbin mechanics. Thank you so very much, you made my job very easy

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!! And I'm glad the video was helpful!

[@peterdevreter]

Thanx! I disassembled my whole engine to do both valve cover gaskets and while I'm in there also the timing belt. Long story short: a big pile of nuts bolts and brackets. This video helped me to assamble the timing cover side 🎉

[@AutoFixYT]

Nice, glad it helped!

[@danielkastrup8437]

Nice to see the "serpentine belt twist" method of checking/adjusting tension. I've known about this since serps were introduced, finally, I actually saw it demonstrated. Kudos & props given !

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks! Not many other ways of checking the tension unless you have special tools

[@elgatogordo9523]

Just what I needed to replace the timing belt for my 94 Lexus that I just bought recently for an excellent deal. She needs some TLC! Tires, struts, oil change, tune-up, and other miscellaneous items. Looks a lot easier than replacing my wife's 2006 Honda Odyssey timing belt. Thanks for the video!

[@AutoFixYT]

Good luck! These are fairly easy to work on. You just have to have patience and make sure it all gets done right.

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@AutoFixYT Will do! Those timing marks can get tricky. I was off one teeth on the Odyssey at the crankshaft. With a little patience, it all came together 👍

[@AutoFixYT]

@elgatogordo9523 yeah always spin it by hand several full revolutions. This is an interference engine so if you run it with the timing belt off even one tooth it can cause damage

[@nhcGlovehats46thst]

​@@AutoFixYTThe 1mzfe is a non-interference engine your thinking 3mz

[@AutoFixYT]

@@nhcGlovehats46thst you are right, that's my bad... Oops

[@tomhiggins7780]

Super pro job! The explanations and camera views are great. No wasted viewing time.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@kamalabbady6778]

This videos is comple guide for timing belt, camera angle is real good and clear, keep up the good work, love your videos

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@gregbailey3710]

This should be the first video when you search. Great job, thanks a bunch!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!!

[@1337penguinman]

One of these was the first timing belt job I ever did. Brings back memories.

[@AutoFixYT]

Nice, they're not that bad. There is easier for sure, but there is also way worse haha

[@sreginkc]

Very well laid out and edited. I will be using this when I change mine next month. Well done!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@tektech1065]

Valuable info, and very well done video! Thank you for the many valuable tips. Good tip on the powerful impact for removing crank pulley. In the past I made a V shaped tool out of two 14" pieces of steel to block the pulley while I used 1/2" breaker bar to get the bolt out. Strong impact is much easier, but it must be top power as you said. Before removing my old belt I made small white markings (w. White-Out) on each of the toothed pulleys and on the edge of belt, then removed the belt and transferred the markings to the new one. Then put in new belt to match all the markings. It was easiest way to make sure timing was correct. Thank you again!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! Yes that's true you can mark the belts and then transfer the marks. I've never done that but it's a great safety measure like you said!

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@AutoFixYT if you put the engine at TSC the marks all line up and they will match with belt. That seems like the best way.

[@AutoFixYT]

If you line up the factory marks on the cam and crank sprockets, you can't go wrong.

[@LargeAlbatross]

just a note: 13:15 this is not the correct timing mark to line up with the indicator on the oil pump. the correct mark to line up with the indicator on the oil pump is on the back plate of the crank sprocket. once that is lined up, then the dot on the crank sprocket itself will line up with the bottom line on the timing belt if there is one.

[@AutoFixYT]

Not true. The crank sprocket dimple is the actual timing mark for TDC for this application

[@keithcress1335]

Great vid! Just what I needed. Thank you.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@keithcress1335 awesome!

[@Dansk55]

A good idea to change the cam and crank seals. Great stuff

[@AutoFixYT]

Agreed. This time I decided to leave them be since they weren't leaking. I know, probably not the best choice but... There's no turning back now haha

[@MrRyanpdx32]

Best video thank you for not talking extra!!!!!!!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks!

[@marcusdoolette1547]

I subscribed just on the basis of this video. Really clear instructions and great filming. Good stuff. Thanks.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you very much!

[@theamerican7080]

Well done, and well edited! I'm sure this added several hours to the job. Thank you!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! Yes it definitely took way longer haha

[@euonymus1980]

Wow! You deserve to have thousands of more subs! Lots of time and effort in how you put these videos together. Well done!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you very much!

[@beneficialhomebuyer]

What an amazing job you did on this video. Thank you very much.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! Glad it helped!

[@The3speedautomatic]

Excellent! Excellent! Excellent! That's how you make a video! Thank you so much! You just saved me a lot of money by doing it myself! I am subscribed! Thank you again!!!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! That's awesome! This is what it's all about.

[@cliffordhanson3209]

Thank you for the video, happy labor day weekend

[@scottyp.644]

Awesome video! Right to the point, good pace. Excellent

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you very much!

[@JalenRose02]

What a nice wagon there Ironically I'm planning to do some timing and water pump replacement when money comes in for my rolla this year.

[@nickaa827]

This is great. Looks like it's very similar process to my 99 Solara 1MZFE.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes, same engine, same exact parts, same procedure

[@michaelsmagic13]

Dude. Excellent video and explained everything clearly including tips for people!!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@someguy9675]

Great Video! I have a question: I tried to do this job before once and failed, because my side engine mount is different than yours ( I have a 2000 Solara convertible.) Mine is a "V" shape instead of the O shape on that vehicle (shown in the video at 6:09) , and it is bolted to the front of the engine just behind the base of the V and you can only access the head of the bolt from the side by going between the mount and the timing belt cover. I couldn't back the bolt far enough to remove it after 1 hour of turning the bolt 1/16" of a turn at a time because the bolt wants to move in between the upright portions that form the "V", preventing me from being able to reach it anymore. Any idea what to do there, or have you encountered this style of engine mount on another vehicle?

[@AutoFixYT]

I don't really understand the situation because I've never seen a setup like that, but hopefully you were able to figure it out!

[@MrTarzan2day]

Thank you and Thanks to all the comments! I had to use a 1" impact to get my crank bolt off.

[@AutoFixYT]

Wow haha must have been very tight!

[@aaronandrew8068]

This video is perfect education

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@livetoinspireall2755]

Great video Cris. Are you the same Chris Fix that has many DIYer educational videos? Thanks for these great videos; you have saved me some cash and I learned alot!

[@AutoFixYT]

I am no ChrisFix, but I am a big fan of his work!

[@AdrianoPereira78]

This video made me decide to buy a Lexus ES300 here in Brazil 😂

[@jimharper6073]

Good video.. I hope I don't have to go that deep into my ES300 but your video answered a question I had... I took out my CKP crankshaft position sensor and found a lot of iron filings attached to the magnet end. Yes a lot. Enough where it may be the problem I've had for sometime.. While you're in that deep you may want to check.

[@AutoFixYT]

Good luck to you! And yes definitely clean that old well before reinstalling. Mine looked to be good though.

[@markallisonmc]

Excellent video

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@trisa9625]

wow big job that was awsome

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks!

[@antoniowade3318]

Excellent video. Very informative. 2 thumbs up

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@chuckdavis3587]

Very nice video and commentary. Do the arrows on the timing belt need to face away from the engine (front)? ref 23:51

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! So... yes and no. Here's the deal... these timing belts are not directional. So the arrows are there to show you how to put it on if you want to line up the lines on the timing belt with the timing marks. I did not do that because to be honest I totally overlooked thaf step and i just went by the timing marks on the engine. So although nothing will happen if you put it on "backwards", it is more useful to put it on with the arrows facing away from the engine because that will allow you to line up all 3 timing marks with all 3 lines on the timing belt.

[@usa9477]

Thank you 👍

[@nathanield.4527]

Fantastic job! Great lighting and camera angles. Where did you order your headlights from? The headlight looks nice and clear.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! Many people have asked for a link to those headlights... but it seems as though they have been disconinued shortly after I bought my set! So unfortunately you'll just have to keep an eye out if they ever get restocked. Just search your Year Make Model followed by black housing headlights. So for me it would be 1996 toyota camry black housing headlights. Hopefully something good pops up.

[@abyssalsoul6216]

I purchased a Lisle brand harmonic balancer 22mm socket part number 77110. It is heavy as hell and runs about 26 bucks on Amazon. I then used my feeble Sears electric 1/2 inch drive impact ( bought in the 80s) and removed the crank bolt quite easily on my 06 Sienna with the 3MZ engine.

[@AutoFixYT]

Awesome! Whatever works to get it off safely!

[@Jame6999]

That socket is the business 💰

[@stephen2220]

Should I replace the thermostat as well? My Avalon has 150,000 + miles and has never been replaced but it still works well. I figure since I'm replacing the timing belt et al. I should replace the thermostat as well? What are your thoughts. Thanks

[@AutoFixYT]

If you have not replaced it in that many miles, I'd recommend replacing it. You're already working on it, the coolant is already drained, and it's cheap. If you don't, it will fail when you least expect it haha From experience I recommend buying an AISIN thermostat, that is Toyota OEM just not branded as Toyota. They work the best and last the longest. And they're not as expensive as you think.

[@stephen2220]

@@AutoFixYT I totally agree! Is the correct Aisin part# THT-019 ? Thanks again!

[@AutoFixYT]

I'm not sure what the exact part number is but rockauto.com will have it for sure.

[@stephen2220]

@@AutoFixYT Thank you.

[@AdrianoPereira78]

Video muito bom! Parabéns e muito obrigado!

[@roadtripholidays]

Great video! I was wondering at what km should I change the timing belt of the 2003 Lexus ES300. Thanks in advance.

[@AutoFixYT]

I'm not sure what exact number Lexus required for the ES300, but you can refer to your owner's manual for details. If you don't have one Lexus has them available on their website, just look it up. Even though it has the same engine, they recommend different intervals sometimes for different vehicles.

[@roadtripholidays]

@@AutoFixYT Thank you! I'll look up the manual. Cheers!

[@jackeroo75]

What tool can I get to pull the cam pulley? This is the one where you are underneath the passenger side wheel weld.

[@AutoFixYT]

You shouldn't need a puller for the cam sprockets. You do however need one for the harmonic balancer/crank pulley.

[@cheetosaregoodttv3762]

Hey brother man, watched your video and did everything as you did except I was struggling with the cam shafts and harmonic balancer. Ended up accidentally turning them all individually (which I think messed up some kinda timing) I’m not hearing any clanking or ticking or anything but I marked all the shafts and old belt with the new. Got everything back put together and went to start up, car cranks but didn’t start, took everything back apart and tried to confirm the timing belt was aligned properly with the engravings within the shafts and the covers and everything looked good, put all together and tried again.. didn’t start again, put the old belt back on lining up all the marks from before and gave it another go, car started but it ran like absolute poop. Very high idle, still overheating and car wouldn’t go faster then 5-10 mph, didn’t have any of these issues before only the car was overheating. Doesn’t make any sense to me, from what I can tell the belt is aligned properly with all the marks and all the marks are all aligned TDC. Any advice on what to do? The car starts and runs now but it struggles to start and when it’s running it idles very high (around 1800-2000rpm) and shakes a bunch. Again, no ticking or mocking so I believe valves and pistons are good. Just not sure what’s going on

[@AutoFixYT]

Don't worry about the fact that you spun the cams and crank individually. It doesn't matter as long as you put them back at TDC when the belt goes on. Also, spinning them by hand will not do any damage to the valves even if they hit. You can't spin it fast enough and hard enough to bend a valve, at leats not on that engine. On some yes, not on that one. So first thing i would recommend doing is to check all the vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. If you are sure those are not a problem, you have to be 100% sure that the mechanical timing is set right (as in the cam and crank sprockets on the timing belt) but it seems as though you checked it countless times already (but that doesn't mean you didn't make a mistake several times, trsut me, I've been there before). Another thing you can do is put a scan tool on the car and watch live data. Watch MAF data, upstream O2 sensor data, cam position and crank position data, misfire data, timing advance (sometimes called spark advance). There are so many things you can watch live to see what is happening. Hopefully you're able to do that. With OBD2 cars, scan tools and live data is a must for diagnosing certain engine issues. The fact that it shakes a lot, to me that means it has a misfire or its so out of time that it's causing a misfire. High idle is usually caused by a vacuum leak or excess air entering the cylinder. That can be caused by the timing being off too. There fact that it's overheating however, makes me worry about the head gaskets. Overheat for? How bad did it overheat? And is it actually overheating or is it the coolant temp sensor that is bad and reading high? What is the computer getting for information on engine coolant temperature? If the sensor is not reading right and the computer is getting false readings, it will cause it to not start and run like it should. When coolant temperature is low, the computer will dump fuel in to make it warm up faster. When it's hot it will enter closed loop and will start running off of the O2 sensors and MAF sensors mainly, as in its self adjusting. When it's overheating it will pull back fuel and timing. I hope this helps!

[@ManojKumar-mf5sv]

Hi, I did my timing belt successfully after watching your video. The instructions are pretty clear. I just have 1 question. How to torque the crank pulley. I have got 230nm impact wrench. I just tightened with it. And tried to torque it using breaker bar. But the crank moves along with the breaker bar. I am not sure whether that is tight enough to hold the bolt. Do you think it should be enough torque?

[@AutoFixYT]

If you tighten it with your impact wrench then it's going to be just fine. Don't worry about it. If you know your tool well, doing it by feel is ok.

[@ManojKumar-mf5sv]

Thanks ​@@AutoFixYT

[@ManojKumar-mf5sv]

Thanks ​@@AutoFixYT

[@sleestak284]

Hi, awesome video i was wondering how similar this is to an older 3vzfe engine? My water pump went out and the cost to get it to a mechanic is too much, worst case it's going to the junkyard anyways

[@AutoFixYT]

It's fairly similar. Just pay attention to the timing marks and you'll be all set. In the end it's just nuts and bolts that need to be removed and put back. Imprtant part is like i said timing marks, proper tightening of fasteners, and to make sure all belts are on correctly. You got this! Don't scrap it for just a water pump!

[@sleestak284]

​@AutoFixYT cheers for the prompt response mate, your vids have been a godsend in fixing my camry hopefully I can get the pump fixed. Thanks very much

[@sleestak284]

@@AutoFixYT Hey man, so my old car died must've over heated and blew its headgaskets. I'm thinking of getting an old avalon with 1mz and thanks to you I would be able to work on it. I was hoping since you're familiar with this engine do you what are its common fail points? I know of sludging is there a way to check if its too bad? Cheers.

[@davidw9403]

😂😂😂 yea, just cut the power steering belt y'all. I'm kidding great video! That top bolt on the PS pump is really hidden up there.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeaaah… whatever works lol

[@maar5725]

Thank You ‘ your work very excellent , except removing power steering pump belt ,,, you should’ve press the pump bracket firmly ( strong ) with the pry bar till you remove ( free ) the belt without damaging it . I did it several time without damaging it .

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you! I've done it several times too on other engines. This one refused to come off. The pump was completely bottomed out so that was my only option. Maybe someone put a belt on that was too short.

[@maar5725]

@@AutoFixYT very excellent

[@tonyaulet7220]

Installed belt on backwards. Arrows go towards the fender

[@AutoFixYT]

I did not know that, thanks for the comment!

[@mackmch]

Good video, but its different for the '93. 1mz started for the '94& up models. '92 & '93 v6 is the 3vzfe...

[@AutoFixYT]

Oh true, my bad! I'll change the title. Thanks for the comment!

[@mackmch]

@@AutoFixYT No problem. I own (2) 1mz's as well. Again, good video! 👍🏽

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks!

[@mackmch]

@@AutoFixYT Side note: Not sure if you're aware - The first generation Highlander 130 amp alternators are a direct bolt on for '94 1MZ on up, for those with a aftermarket sound system. A noticeable difference from the standard stock 80 amp alternator, but it'll do...

[@AutoFixYT]

@@mackmch Good to know!

[@Ch3kThat]

Is the 3.0 L V6 in the 2002 Toyota Highlander also the 1mz-fe engine?

[@AutoFixYT]

It is. And if it isn't then it's the same family of V6 so it will be very very similar.

[@TheIgnoramus]

I just got everything I need, (96’ Avalon 79k mi.)plus head gasket seal. Just cleaned the MAF and throttle body with success. have to replace the engine mounts too. Never been a mechanic but wish me luck. Any help or recs would help. (Houston area)

[@AutoFixYT]

Head gasket seal? What do you mean by that? That sealer in a bottle that you add to your coolant?

[@choppstr]

Good day. I have an issue and a question. I was installing the water pump and when i got to tightening down the nuts, one of them just broke off. I wasn't cranking hard on it. So my question is will it be an issue if that nut is not there or the stud be replaced? Let know asap please, Thanks Lance.

[@AutoFixYT]

Well, as you can imagine, there's a reason for it to be there. I would replace the stud. But... If you want to take a chance on it and not replace the stud, just tighten the other ones and hope for the best, and maybe it won't leak. If it does leak, you'll have to take it back apart and fix the stud.

[@choppstr]

@@AutoFixYT That's what I was leaning towards is to replace it. I tried to get it out but I'm not sure what to use to get it out. I definately don't want to break it off. Any suggestion?

[@AutoFixYT]

They make extractor sockets that you can use. You can also weld a nut to it and then pull it out that way. The welding method takes practice and experience to do it right. The extractor socket is easier but the sockets are expensive.

[@Jay-pp4pk]

Thank's man 👍👍👍

[@AutoFixYT]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@austinluu4780]

Great video!! Just what I needed!!!(:

[@AutoFixYT]

Awesome, I'm glad it helps!

[@bme7491]

Glad I'm in California where our engines don't corrode and rust. Bolts and nuts come out with no sweat.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah, it definitely is nice!

[@natevanlandingham1945]

Use the bolt type pullers and thread into the holes in the crank pulley and press against the center.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah that would be the best option. Unfortunately I didnt have one.

[@rebuiltmags5832]

My new timing belt does not have lines on it for timing marks?

[@AutoFixYT]

Some don't, that's ok. You don't need them. Just need to make sure the cam and crank sprockets are lined up, and that you leave all the slack on the tensioner side.

[@paulcamalin5236]

Hi, Could you please answer this question. Two spacers fell out of the car when I was replacing my sienna water pump and the timing belt. I found them under the car. I do not know where they go. The hole is about 5/16 of an inch. You can look at my profile picture in the ABOUT section to see the picture of the spacer. Thanks!

[@AutoFixYT]

Well there's one washer/spacer behind the timing belt tensioner. It's a flat washer that spaces it out from the block. So that must be one of your two washers. The other one, the one in your profile picture, i have never seen before. Looks like it has a sleeve on it. I've done a few 1MZ timing belts and haven't come across that washer on any of the different vehicles that I've done the timing belt on. So I can't help you with that one unfortunately.

[@paulcamalin5236]

@@AutoFixYT Thanks for the reply! In fact I found 4 of them in the process of changing my timing belt and pump. They fit nicely in the timing belt cover. Wonder if it has anything to do with that. I left out anyway.

[@ashley192277]

I have a 1998 Camry V6. How often do I need to replace the timing belt? Thanks in advance.

[@AutoFixYT]

I believe it's every 90k miles. To be sure, you can check your owner's manual. If you don't have it, Toyota has them available for free.

[@efil4kizum]

is this fairly similar to what is involved with a Gen7 Corolla?

[@AutoFixYT]

Same principle but obviously a 4 Cyl not a V6

[@roltyd22]

Did you have to tighten the bolt through the ps pump pulley when put the belt back on? Great video!

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes you do

[@lucasmills1246]

Does this apply to a 2003 highlander with a 1mz?

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes it does

[@lucasmills1246]

@@AutoFixYT hey, I'm really sorry about that. I saw it in the description after the fact, and I went ahead and ordered the continental kit from rock auto. Sorry for hitting you with an unnecessary question.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@lucasmills1246 No worries! I wanted to put it in the title but I reached the max number of letters lol I guess I should put it in the thumbnail

[@noahlamontagnebadiou7073]

Would you know how to go about doing an EGR valve delete?

[@AutoFixYT]

Well you just take the EGR components off and plug up any holes. You'll just have a CEL. But in my opinion it's not worth it unless you're going for a maximum power build. The EGR recirculates exhaust gases into the intake so that it can take in less oxygen, therefore use less fuel, and be more efficient while you're just cruising at low throttle inputs. Also, this helps reduce cylinder temperatures which is a good thing. However, at full throttle and during the warm-up period the EGR should be closed at all times, unless it is not functioning properly. So what I'm trying to say is that with a properly functioning EGR valve, there should be absolutely no power loss from the engine. The EGR will ONLY recicrculate exhaust gases when you are not asking much of the engine, and when it's already at full operating temp. Otherwise, it closes. On those cars it's vacuum operated. So the more throttle you give it, the more it closes. As far as I know, anywhere over 75% throttle it's closed and the car is breathing 100% fresh air. Hope this helps!

[@noahlamontagnebadiou7073]

@@AutoFixYT Awesome ill just leave it for now haha. Thanks!!

[@b10nary]

Nice tutorial especially the angles. You should have changed the cam and crank seals while you were in there to get them out the way

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks! Yes that would have been a good thing to do, which I usually do, but this time I decided to leave them alone if they weren't leaking. So that's what I did.

[@teddiazjr.6223]

What would the torque be on the crank shaft pulley bolt

[@AutoFixYT]

For the 1MZ it's 159 ft.lbs. For the 3VZ it's 181 ft.lbs.

[@jackeroo75]

Do you have the link to the gloves?

[@AutoFixYT]

@@jackeroo75 My gloves? I buy those from Harbor Freight.

[@jackeroo75]

@@AutoFixYT thank you very much!

[@Jame6999]

Curious why you did not use the lines on the belt to match up with the camshaft and the dotted line for the crankshaft? Also saw the arrow points towards the engine. The 3mzfe arrows are AWAY FROM ENGINE

[@AutoFixYT]

Doesn't really matter how the belt lines up as long as the cams and the crank are in time. The belt is just there to hold everything the way you position it.

[@danielrumbo343]

I save this video

[@AutoFixYT]

👍

[@nolanodonnell9943]

I've been trying to get my harmonic balancer bolt off for about 3 hrs now. Tried the impact (450 ft lbs), breaker bar trick, torch, etc... no budging. Any ideas?

[@AutoFixYT]

Ok so... If all you have is a 450 ft lbs gun, that's gonna be way to weak for that bolt to break free. You need big power for those. Like big big power. Preferably pneumatic on full air pressure. I used an 700 ft lbs gun at 125 psi (rated for 90 psi, so it had more than 700 ft lbs of power, probably close to 850-900 ft lbs). So get yourself a powerful gun. Even if it's electric, make sure it has serious power with a large battery attached (more amp hours will provide more reliable power). Also of you're gonna use heat, keep in mind two things. The first thing is you should replace the bolt after you heat it. You can get away with reusing it but it does weaken the bolt overall. The second thing is the best thing you could use for heat is an oxygen acetaline torch with a fine tip. Heat up the center of the bolt until you get a spot in the middle that's glowing red hot. Then immediately put the gun on and it should come off easy peasy. Try to avoid heating up the harmonic balancer with your flame and if you do hit it with the flame, you might wanna consider replacing it. If you don't have access to an oxygen acetaline torch, use map gas with as fine of a tip as you can find. And try not to hit anything else with your flame. Heat up the bolt head since you can't heat up where it goes I to the crank. Hope this helps!

[@nolanodonnell9943]

@@AutoFixYT Thanks man! Just got it off, borrowed a buddies Milwaukee impact. Got a new harmonic balancer as well and going to replace that since I had it pretty hot. Hopefully the rest goes smoother. The Camry has been a good car to learn on.. I only paid 200 bucks for it so there's that too.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@nolanodonnell9943 Haha wow $200 that's junkyard price if not less lol And nice! Yeah most harmonic balancer bolts are very very tight so you need serious power to get them off. I'm glad you got it though!

[@nolanodonnell9943]

Finished the job. Thanks for the video! Couldn’t have done it without it. Yeah, it’s a nice car for $200 and a few parts. I feel a lot better now getting the water pump/coolant leak handled and getting new belts on. Now time for tires and an alignment and it should be ready to go

[@AutoFixYT]

@@nolanodonnell9943 Awesome! They're great cars and like you said a very good learning experience. They're forgiving and somewhat easy to work on. Keep it up!

[@tbskirk]

Good stuff

[@AutoFixYT]

Thanks!

[@jamesstark3892]

The belt should have 3 marks on it. They match with the 3 timing marks on th pulleys, to ensure you don't skip a tooth.

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah, that is true. Not all belts do, but some do.

[@iblanco1970]

On the video not saw the CKP sensor was.

[@AutoFixYT]

No need to touch the crank sensor for this job. But if you do need to change it, it's at the bottom near the crank trigger wheel.

[@iblanco1970]

@@AutoFixYT Ok, thanks

[@vanessawu4327]

When r u going to do the same job for your Corolla? 😊

[@AutoFixYT]

I want to but other projects keep taking priority. It's not due for another timing belt for 50k more miles (or about 6 years) so if I make a video I'd be replacing something that doesn't need to be replaced. I still really want to make the video because people keep asking for it. But this car is mu daily driver and I have a full time job and a family so it's not easy to find time.

[@benlelavith8789]

Thank you🙏 Subscribed!

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@truthsearcherforever3211]

Lol 😂😂😂. For anyone watching this just a reminder the reason why band rip was bc he had to loosen the bolt that holds the power steering pump. To allow the power pump to go down and give more slack to the belt. They are two bolts you need to loosen

[@AutoFixYT]

It was already loose. The belt was too short. The new belt worked just fine

[@truthsearcherforever3211]

@@AutoFixYT suuurrrrre 🤣🤣😏

[@marielopez2276]

I’m in SC is there anyone close who can fix mine had a so called mechanic do it and it won’t start, from jump I noticed they didn’t connect the ground wire in it’s right full place I need help

[@AutoFixYT]

Well the first thing I would check is the timing marks. That's what's gonna determine whether it starts or not. That small ground cable won't make a difference. Although it should be plugged in, it won't make it not start. So check the timing and make sure the cam sprockets as well as the crank are all lined up at TDC where they are supposed to be.

[@sociedaduniversall]

for when the 1mz-fe valve seal change video

[@AutoFixYT]

I don't change valve seals by myself. If they have to be done I send the head to the machine shop and have them do it.

[@angeladave5435]

I got a 94 toyota camry wagon the timing belt broke can I set the timing on the cams 1 at a time before I put the belt on

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes

[@chalochalo3375]

You could have at least shown how you removed the camshaft sprocket bolt. The sprocket bolts on my 2002 avalon doesn't even budge despite using the earthquake xtreme torque impact on it

[@AutoFixYT]

I did show how, I used a breaker bar and almost broke my back instead lol

[@nikkafka2379]

I'm about to start this project, not looking forward to it. I've only done dual cams so t hi is should be easy

[@AutoFixYT]

Yes this is actually an easy timing belt job. The only tip I have is to make sure you break free the cam bolts before you take off the belt and before you set the timing, if you are planning on replacing cam seals.

[@nikkafka2379]

@@AutoFixYT there is antifreeze leaking pretty bad right by the water pump. There is no birds eye view so I am assuming it's the water pump.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@nikkafka2379 if it's coming from the timing belt area that's the only thing it can be

[@ONeal397]

What about the Highlander

[@AutoFixYT]

Ah yes, from 2000-2003. You're right! I'll have to fix that

[@dadgarage7966]

It's tempting to use the Rock Auto cheapo kits but it's not worth it. Genuine Toyota/Aisin/Mitsuboshi parts last way beyond the service interval whereas you must change the cheapo parts every four years/60K miles if they make it that far. Of course, if you're selling the car, who cares.

[@AutoFixYT]

Rockauto has Aisin kits as well as Denso and other OEM brands. You just have to look for them.

[@dadgarage7966]

@@AutoFixYT Awesome. Thanks for the insider tip!

[@Clevelandsteamer324]

Clearance engine.

[@AutoFixYT]

It is an interference engine, yes.

[@masterk5066]

You believe a shop quoted me 1700 for this smh. Timing belt power steering belt ac belt & water pump. 2001 sienna though.

[@AutoFixYT]

Expensive but to be expected if you think about labor costs, shop supplies, and of course parts.

[@masterk5066]

@@AutoFixYT yeah i guess. So I bought OEM timing belt kit with water pump & every single part needed for around 400. Their kit also was same, so 1300 labor is crazy to me it ain’t like im getting the motor pulled 💀😂.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@masterk5066 Well keep in mind that shops make money on parts too. So whatever you buy them for might be cheaper than what you pay the shop for the same part, even if they get a slight discount. Then there are shop supplies such as brake cleaner, coolant, rags, fluid disposal, and other miscellaneous tools and products they have to use for that repair. Then comes in labor. I'd estimate the labor on that to be $1100 or maybe $1200, and if it takes let's say 8 hours to do that timing belt (should take someone that knows the engine less but let's say 8) that's $137-$150/h. That's an average labor rate. Some shops will charge almost $200/h for labor. It's crazy. But those are usuallu specialized in certain vehicles. Anyway, when you break or down it starts to make sense. Hopefully. Lol. Here where I live $150/h for a good shop is normal. Any less is cheap.

[@jamesguralski5156]

You didn't change the seals?! Oh man

[@AutoFixYT]

Not this time. They were dry so i decided to leave them as is. Maybe I should have... but I took my chances lol. I'm sure they'll be ok.

[@thedreadedgman]

man those claw-type pullers sure are bum

[@AutoFixYT]

Yeah not the best but if it's all you have then I guess just be careful with them

[@Pedro-kz3jk]

👍

[@vilo3454]

Bro , you completely missed the whole point of the lines on the belt, they are there for a reason, given the age of your car and the bunch of videos on this…how could you post this 9 months ago and not watch other people do it correctly????!!!!

[@AutoFixYT]

As long as the sprockets line up, you're fine.

[@jorgemelgar3180]

i agree with both of you especially @autofixYT

[@roltyd22]

Shops here want $700-$1,200 to do this job

[@AutoFixYT]

That's a lot! I would guess maybe $500 for labor would be a fair price.

[@roltyd22]

@@AutoFixYT Yup, probably 150-190 parts,good parts like an aisin kit

[@steph1gaming]

They have a business to run. Not a charity.

[@Jame6999]

Truth is this job sucks. It's even worse with the 3mzfe as that's interference. Must be sure things are done right

[@AutoFixYT]

I think the 1MZ is interference too, I could be wrong though. But it's not that bad honestly. If it's your first time doing a timing belt then yeah it's not gonna be fun. But either way, I've done worse lol

[@precisionbay6899]

Lol nice vid but please don't remove your cam sprockets smh 🤦 water pump comes out without having to do all of that

[@AutoFixYT]

You have to remove them in order to remove the timing cover that's behind them otherwise the water pump does not come off.

[@precisionbay6899]

@@AutoFixYT that's funny I've been taking them out without removing the cover. If you remove the studs it comes right out

[@AutoFixYT]

@@precisionbay6899 Oh yeah maybe if you remove the studs... But I'd rather take off the cam sprockets to inspect and/or replace the cam seals. I guess it just comes down to personal preference lol

[@peter-pg5yc]

I just paid to have it done. why not

[@AutoFixYT]

Sure, nothing wrong with that! Whatever gets it done right, that's what matters.