@@cranborile if I don’t leave it on during install then I wouldn’t get instant gratification of it working. But seriously folks do turn off the printer for install I am a professional…..lazy person.

@@toycoma98 I haven’t even touched the firmware yet. I will look into it but I am not sure the dongle would need an update but you never know.

I finally got around to doing the firmware update and its very easy and the read me file has all the information you need. However all you do is go to the anbernic website and to the firmware section then download the firmware and extract it. Then you run the software for the controller once its running you hold down L3+R3 on the controller aka pressing in the analog sticks and while doing that you plug in the controller and the software will see the controller and you can update. Now for the dongle you run the dongle software in the same folder as the main firmware download from earlier and once the software is running you hold down the pairing button on the dongle and then plug it into the computer and the software will see the dongle and you push download and boom its done. Much easier than other firmware upgrades I have done in the past.

@@RDUBTutorial so all I did was tell bing AI image generator to create an image using 4 only for colors in the Roy Lichtenstein style then say I want a chicken. I then put that into hueforge and just used the grey scale it auto loads as a base and assign colors to it till it looked close then change depths a little bit till I was happy.

@ thanks. So I don’t really have to worry about color blending as the colors will build on top of each other. Is there a minimum number of layers you used for each color in order to cover the previous one? If the order of yours was black white yellow red. How many layers of white to cover black and how many of yellow over white- OR does HueForge figure that ?

@@RDUBTutorial yeah hueforge figures that out and that’s what the depth sliders are for in the software. It tracks all that stuff. However for this specific print when i went into the slicer I made the black layer thicker by cutting the bottom layer off and thickening it. It changes the way you do the color changes but it works out in the end. I believe there is a tutorial for that technique but it’s not needed just for looks I wanted this print thick

Yes the hot glue it for shipping. You can remove the glue pretty easy and dont need to worry about gluing it again.

​@@bigtophomestead Thanks for that explanation, I'll move forward with my LUX install.

@@thomasphillips885 The film has been modified from its original version. It has been formatted to fit this screen. Some parts of the film have been edited due to content and time.

@@bigtophomestead 🤣🤣 Spot on sir😎

Yeah I bought on the first round of pre orders. I am no one special so LTT would not send me one early or anything.

I was about to say this....

@@Cookieanimations-y2k Me like COOKIE!!!!

@@Mr_XXX513 not yet but I am sure it would handle it fine as along as the nozzle itself can handle it.

@@CordellMyers-rw1ps sadly most of them got ate by hawks but now we have 80 meat birds and 50 layers which is more than what is in this video.

Yeah I was trying to cut it down for time. However when I got this I was just winging it as the instructions were not live on Biqu website. Its been working fine for a while now.

@@bigtophomestead Before they posted the instructions...which now are posted and still aren't clear on where to put grease, I was talking to Luke in the comments of a Facebook post. He's one of the BigTreeTech employees. He ran the product launch Livestream and he explained to me how to apply the grease. My Panda Claw wasn't working well on my A1 and then he told me I should use the bearings that are included because they have a different inner diameter I guess. My A1 is down for a broken Eddy sensor but I plan to give the Panda Claw another try with the included bearings this time.

@@DigitalHDx yeah I think ended up using the bearings that were already in the X1 instead of swapping them out as I didn’t see any noticeable difference in them. I know the A1 is a different extruder layout so I am sure different complications arise.

I have not printed much since the swap but my test print was the super fast benchy and it did that just fine. Once I have a bunch of prints on it or notice any major issues I will report back.

Thanks!

@@Nastra Printed a bunch of stuff over the weekend I did not see any or have any issues. Did I see improvements in anyway, I dont think so but I dont think thats the point I think the point is not having plastic gearing.

@@bigtophomestead Thanks for the Infos!

@@bigtophomestead So it's basically just a (theoretically) better alternative if you have to swap out the extruderparts anyway, right? No need to buy them if you don't have to.

P1S has a different install instruction here is a video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5rSdKJmnaqcZ6s

I went down to one light just to see the difference and just have not gone back to two but I ran with both lights for a long while without issues but just know there is a small risk even though biqu did testing with both lights also with no issues its bambu that is warning of the issues that may arise.

No it's not. He's got 3 things plugged into the adapter when it only should be 2 or 1

@@markbaker1827 I thought the panda lux had a different connector than the stock light but I haven’t looked at it for a bit so if they are the same then I don’t see why you couldn’t just direct connect.

@@cliftonhead9665 I am not familiar with the P1S systems but I would try undoing everything you did when installing the lux and see if things work as they should. Double check all connections are seated properly where they should be as well.

So the official stance from BQ is not to have both lights plugged in as that would equal .6A however they stated in their long tests they did not have any issues with both lights plugged in. However the reason the jump board has slots for both lights is because it was not until after manufacturing that Bambu told them that .6A was too much as the original light bar itself was .6A or something along those lines. It seems to be a very confusing situation in terms of communication. Here is how I see it. If you want to "risk it" then plug in both if you want to follow the rules then just plug in the lux as it is plenty bright on its own and brighter than the standard light bar.

actually it is a problem and they only discovered it AFTER manufacturing these, they warn you on their website and in their official install video

That video warning against using both lights was on a P1 and not an X1 series If they didn't want you plugging in both lights there wouldn't be a socket on the adapter board

Both lights are not plugged in only the upgrade

They delayed the release of the Lux so they could fix that issue at least thats what the email they sent me said.

@@LestradeGames Can you post a copy of the email please. I have 2 of these on order and want to see what there official stance on this is. I have an email out to them on this subject, but haven't received a response back. There official website for this item says not to plug in both at the same time still (its towards the very bottom). Thanks for the video its very helpful and its the only one I have come across as of yet.

​@LestradeGames they delayed and reduced the lux itself to .3A per request from bambu labs. Plugging the stock in is still not recommended. The official installation video on their channel also makes mention of this

@@Nell8908 well we shall see if I fry the board then so be it. So far I haven’t had an issue arise but everyone stick to the recommendation of Bambu and don’t follow what I am doing.

@LestradeGames I doubt it causes any issues. BTT probably had 0 issues during development, but Bambu is being extra cautious I assume

I like turtles.

Tx

Glad you enjoy the content. Got some ideas for 2024 but only if we have time. It’s very busy around here as we still work regular jobs and homestead and then make cool things! Harder to do long form videos and I always forget to make shorts.

I actually didn’t sand anything. For the buttons and the button cover I just printed them at high detail. Then if the buttons were rubbing a bit too much I would change the button size my a percentage point smaller. If you plan on spray painting I would for sure size them down as the paint is going to add layer to everything and could depending on the paint as stickiness so I would experiment a bit.