Does the repair boot just create an umbrella over the damaged existing boot ? No sealing required ? Sylvania, are you currently still a home inspector ?

What is the common diameter of the pipe itself ? Just what to know what size hole diameter of the repair boot .

Know someone who had dryer venting out of soffit for literally decades, zero issues. Of course, it was kept cleaned out but you have to do that with any venting solution you decide on.

But he doesn’t tell you when you do it on the outside a route can go right through your footer and cost water to come in on the inside anyway so do it on the outside doesn’t help eventually it will still leak roots go through everything

You're not wrong about trying to correct the source but drain tile systems do also fail and this repair you point out is necessary. Drain tile is there to divert water as you say, so calling it inferior is not relevant. It's not there to prevent, it's there to address when/if water does get in (which is will eventually). Yes prevention is the best action but if you're buying a home that was neglected for years before you owned it, don't say drain tile repair is not good. I bet most of the wall damage you point out was there before the drain tile was repaired. It looks pretty darn dry in there now, so I'd say it's working pretty good.

Block wall foundation are bad to begin with

This may indeed be a "backwards" door, but depending on what side this door faces, an OUT swing door prevents wind/rain from getting inside the house. These doors are also made with security in mind as the hinge pins can NOT be removed. Out swing doors are also required by fire code in some states, for garages, and for public buildings. I'm getting ready to install an out swing door from our garage to the outside because heavy wind and rain seep into our garage.

Every house i work in now has spray foam there. Its a pain when trying to drill for silcoxs or anything for that matter because you cant see any wires that may be in a bay.

Would you recommend xps and stuffing the rim joist with mineral wool Insulation?

Hello JUST STUFF IT WITH FIBERGLASS THEN BUY CHEAPEST THINIST STYROFOAM CUT AS CLOSE FIT AS POSSIBLE THEN CAULK WITH CHEAPEST EXTERIOR CAULK 75% savings

900,000 square foot house??

That is a cool share!

No

What’s your solution. Build a new house?

You sound like you don't know what you are talking about. Do better

Can you put plywood over the spray-in loose insulation? We are desperate for any kind storage.

I feel like pointing out how you dislike a water management solution and not giving any other solutions does not properly inform anyone who watches.

Unbelievable ! Lazy asses!😮

Unbelievable!

😮😮😮

😮😮

🙀🙀🙀

Wouldn't that make the area near the air gap smell of sewer gas?

No way! This was done by someone who does not like heights. Otherwise 10 minutes with a knife, caulking and 2 nails would have fixed it. At least you caught it! A guy who does their job? Here's one.

At least as a home inspector you are looking on the roof. Other than public speaking, heights are phobia's many have. Thanks for the effort and info.

What if the hose doesn’t have enough slack to make a high loop? Is there a way to extend/add to the existing hose and attach it to the garbage disposal?

what about for brick homes what should i use? rockwool?

Florida no outswing door = no insurance...They want outswing for wind/hurricanes. Outswing have different hinges, different threshold, etc...but they do make them.

This is a classic vapor barrier scenario, not a fiberglass specific issue. Lower cost solution is to use faced fiberglass cut to size, with the facing stapled and tucked as with any fiberglass install. The facing on fiberglass is generally around 1 perm. EPS offers nothing, you'd have to use XPS specifically (blue board as mentioned, Foamular, etc)

May as well seal all the soffit vents so no moisture comes in on a humid day!

I hate how home inspectors act like they know stuff. You've never worked in any trades or construction, you don't know shit.

Did I miss it? What did you use and how did you repair it?

Up in Defiance! Toledo, my old neck of the woods.

How long ago was this done before the wall looked like that?

You need more education man. There is water coming from underneath the slab. Just shows you aren't an expert

Some inspectors allow 3ft to each side, basically like you said. By getting rid of the vented one in the middle it should be fine. The window being so close is definitely a concern as well on that house.

Great…but I thought this video would show me how.

Looks like open earth crawlspace-- that is driving the humidity.

Half ass video… do your research.. take u 6 months before you put it together

Soss hinges

Cold-climate-liver (love it). Stack effect is real (and powerful). Vapour barrier is difficult to install as a defence at the rim joist (ten tubes of acoustic sealant later). I'm still assessing whether well-installed spray-foam will work better. As the house flexes from warm-humid to cold-dry I'm fairly certain cracks have been opening that I cannot see. Part of the problem is we over-"air condition" in hot weather and over-heat in the cold. We've only had a few decades to see what happens. Also...properly installed exterior insulation if you are doing a new-build (but investigate HVAC air exchange). In most districts these things are code where I live. If I were able to build a new house, I'm interested in insulated concrete forms...but you need a competent contractor. I'd also be happy with a tiny cabin and a wood stove, windows that open in the summer. Where I live it takes a century of shameful neglect before those things decay. I am fond of modern cooking/laundry appliances however..so get your electrical together..

So if your only answer is to do it from the outside , how do you guarantee water wont come up through the floor from hydrostatic pressure you cant! You did not mention the bottom cores of the block are drilled to relive the pressure. And you are dealing with the water at the source which is under the floor. every situation requires different answers. If you do not replace footing drains, digging the outside can wreak havoc by always having water sitting next to your foundation. Always hire a Basement contractor who deals with structural issues, that you can trust, do not trust some video where the person is not well versed in waterproofing like this one.

You have to seal those with vapour barrier and sealant OBVIOUSLY. It is a MASSIVE pain in the a$$ however, and it's really the only place where spray foam is a no-brainer.

What does it cost to correct this issue? I have this situation in a house I am buying.

That's a new one double grounding on the neutral screws 🤨

"That aint right." ....that other inspector.

That fiberglass is not installed properly. If fiberglass is used properly there is nothing wrong with it. It's not cut neatly and when you use fiberglass you must always use poly. The poly stops the air transfer.

i notice mine is galvanized metal, are those acceptable too?

This was quite helpful. Thank you!

air flow is good, that is not your problem. your problem is that you do not have vapor barrier on the inside of your insulation like you do everywhere else in the house, the air moves right through as warm, moist, air and then condensates into actual moisture once it leaves the zone of the heated house inside of the insulation. you should cut a piece of poly for every joist spacing and acoustical seal it into place. I seriously cant believe you are an inspector. Styro is a good idea but I would still do batt insulation first so that the wood can breath instead of placing styro foam directly to the wood, that will lock moisture up against the wood with no way to escape.