Yay, you used a tool that is unnecessary. Just use a piece of once fired brass and a sooted bullet. Not really that hard to do. Doesn't cost you a dime that way.

Man I am coming back to reloading and vids like this DID NOT exist back in 96! So thank you for sharing your experience and expertise!! Actually never thought of swapping between bullets .. just trying everything to get one type to shoot well!! So this video is still relevant!!

In Harry Potter, the wand chooses the Wizard. In rifles, the bullet chooses the barrel! Good video. Basic and easy to understand without the complex variable & BS you get in some. One point I would like to add - the throat grooves are usually tapered. I use a Sharpie pen to mark the bullet & then check the lands engagement. This results in a scratch mark od about 3 mm. In other words, the tool used in the video is actually pushing the bullet about 2 mm into the lands. That is about 79 thou. While it is correct that the first measurement is a relative number, it is still 79 thou into the lands. If you want to avoid the bullet touching the lands, you will need to reduce that 79 thou to your cartridge length.

I found this video from a linked article. You say “remove the decapping rod and expander from the Type S dies. An expander IS NOT needed when using a bushing die.” this has left me a little confused. Can you explain how it sizes the neck without the expander?

My first couple shots are always very tight...

If I don’t have the ability to make a modified case from a fired piece of brass, what would be the best measurement to use on a fired piece of brass to compare to a hornady-produced modified case so I can ensure proper bullet seating?

I am relatively new to reloading, I'm NOT a comp shooter, but a hunter who want to shoot the best he can! I use all the same make of good quality brass when reloading. I batch load in 50's, neck sizing up to two firings. I then anneal and full length resize so as to chamber easily. I am thinking of purchasing a Forster bushing bump neck sizing die, so as to retain as much of the fire formed case as possible and to work the case less! I would be interested to hear your thoughts on the matter.

You’d be better off with an all copper bullet like a Barnes TTSX or a Hornady CX type bullet then any Berger or ELDX that are way to soft and tend to blow up in close quarters.

I agree...i have a half shot out 22/25 barrel.. can't find the lans... shoots any seat depth and shoots it very accurate... Different seating depth doesn't change anything in that rifle....i use a lee culit crimp die to achieve a uniform start pressure and set free bore travel at 0.010...works very well...just my 2 cents

just one advise. always relase presure in torque wrench when not in use. spring inside wrench can deform and torque value will not be correct.

Close, .1 mil at 1000 yds is 3.6 inches not 3/4"

I noticed you pause the ram at the top when seating. What's the reason for that?

I see this is an old video, but I'd have to say it's the best I've ever seen on this subject. Hope this comment will reach you as I see you may have left YT ? You are very good at getting the point across without a lot of BS in the process. Just found you, but will watch everything I can find that you have done. Nobody better !!

Fantastic video. I’ve spent years and a significant amount of money to get into this. I bought excellent equipment and listened to knowledgeable people. Up to this point I’ve been doing the vast majority of loading on my Dillon 750 for blasting ammo but the priming arm has finally caused enough issues that I’m done with it and I’m re-evaluating my workflow on that AND getting into loading match grade 308 and 338 Lapua on my single stage which up until now has only been used for 50BMG. It’s frustrating that each time you think you’ve got everything you need… you learn that you need an another item… a case comparator, bushing dies, a mandrel, annealer, case prep station.. and on and on. I greatly appreciate the “we shoot at a high level… this is what we do”. My MRAD in 308 has been shooting the 168SMK loads at half MOA. Can’t wait to take the 169s out to distance and especially the 285 ELDMs

Very very good video I follow all those same rules now here is my question of the day what are your thoughts on inside and outside neck turning

How do you accurately set up the WFT trimmer to start? I know I should keep a dummy case set aside with correct cut, but what if I don’t have one. Thanks!

Still the BEST

I tried cutting a rectangle out that was slightly larger than the beam. After testing I think the specs given are baloney and you get a bigger beam than they say.

Its quite clear that this unit is way over my head. Couldnt see his screen and dont understand why those parameters are saved.

As a new reloader, this was very helpful. Thanks.

Solid info

Thank you. Now I understand.

Ok so if you just subtracted a thousandths and called it good, doesnt that only work if the brass had zero spring back and stayed exactly where you put it? Dont you need to subtract another 2 thou for springback?

usually you push them both foward , without overlaping the rail , cause of the recoil . I would back the front one one notch

I've been watching Sam for years and he is the best.

They are old Booger Boolit boxes. How did you acquire those?

Thank you so much for posting this video - really excellent & greatly appreciated! Cheers!

I use the Hornady lock-n-load die bushing in my Hornady Iron press and jam it against the Remming lock ring which holds 100%

Your method is fine for about 300 yards but that’s about it. Your method does not guarantee alignment of vertical stadia to center of rifle bore. If you’re a serious long range shooter the alignment of bore and vertical stadia are critical. Set focus at 25yds, set up a mirror at 12.5 yards, look through scope at mirror and rotate the scope in loosened scope rings until stadia crosses through center of bore. Now vertical stadia and rifle bore are in alignment. Now set up a plumb-line and move rifle (on sandbags) until vertical stadia and plumb-line are inline with each other. Now adjust your bubble level on your scope so it is showing a level bubble. Now your system is aligned perfectly. Note: Even though the scope body, regardless of cost, was “precision CNC machined” it does not mean any of the external flat surfaces are parallel or perpendicular (depending on where you’re referencing from) to the vertical stadia. Some may be dead on but there’s no guarantee. The current rage for people that have a scoped rifle is “long range”. Many gun clubs are lucky to have a range past 200. Even in the military, 600 yards is considered “medium range”. Thank you AMERICAN SNIPER for making it macho to say “I shoot long range”

Put the comparator on the fixed jaw of the calipers. Don't knock it till you try it. I was amazed at how much more consistent it was.

Great video, thanks for sharing. Lots of good ideas to help organize my own set up and get more precise.

Where can I find these targets?

Thanks. I’ll get the ballistic

Ordered on in February of 2024. Nice but the 24VDC transformer has failed. Contacting RCBS to see if they will honor the warranty since selling out to Hodgdon Powder three months after I purchased it from Vista Outdoor Sales who owned RCBS until May 2024.

I tried to give this to Hornady.Apparently it wasn’t wortanything. Here’s what I do. 😄

Fajna maszyna do przycinania łuski czy była robiona przez Pana czy kupiona w sklepie?

Great video! Thanks for taking the time to present this topic so well . I do have one question about one of your closing statements,. I believe you stated if you thought you had a suspected barrel issue to try a sierra matchking bullet first. Why Sierra matchking? I’m just curious.

where can i get a perfect piece of aluminum for my scope leveling?

I like to take a baseline on a new barrel, measure lands with inverted flat base bullet. Track the wear. I went to a pocket size note book for all this data and loads. Keep it with the rifle.

I also measure headspace of gauge case and cases that I am loading. Allow for the difference if significant.

Excellent work… I’m subscribing.

Hate to sound like a broken record - but WOW! Nice job and very helpful. Thank you!

Did I miss something? Is this channel not running new content anymore?

We use the lanyard that comes with the Kestrel to indicate wind direction. Let it hang down and watch it move with the wind. Then turn the Kestrel and take a capture.

Hello . Another great footage. I had a tech question in regards the savage 12 in 260 remingtion. Same one that you have. Did you have any suggestions on making the bolt more smoother on feeding the projectile in the chamber.? It seems to be more rigid regardless using resize or new brass . I did change the stock on the savage to a boyds stock. Ive made some adjustment by the actuon screws .

When do you mean by 5000 off the lands?

Great video sir.

I have learned so much from your channel, but my wife will NOT let me shoot from the living room window no matter how important I tell her it is.

Please explain "the McDonald's straw trick"... thanks...

Where can we get the tritium?