LMAO. That video title was the first thing I saw when I updated KZbin. It was very “HARD” not to notice.

Love your video series. two small safety comments. 1) anything that is loose and can get pulled into spinning blade is a risk, suggest making sure pony tail is secured so it can't flop in front of you and possibly down onto blade. 2) when to use rip fence and when to use miter gauge. It is recommended that when piece being cut is wider than long (as when you were doing that long rectangular test piece) should use a miter gauge since the length that is riding against the fence is very short and the piece can pivot into the blade causing a kick back. I understand you are trying to verify the proper distance set of the rip fence.

Hi Maddy. I thoroughly enjoy your channel and also your honesty with success and failure as you break new ground in the development of your electric powered yacht. However - and this is NOT a criticism - I have grave concerns as to the sturdiness and rigidity of your box. To have that concentration of cells and consequent very large mass relying on plywood to not flex, distort and possibly break would be, in my opinion, too great a risk. A 5mm double rebated joint would be fine in a land based situation but in a marine environment is possibly not strong enough. On the high seas, what a rough sea can do to anything that can flex in any way can be absolutely destructive. Slamming into waves can destroy anything that is not thoroughly rigid. The box may well fit into your lazarette but will it be supported properly? Would not individual, self-contained battery boxes be a better idea? And also, in the event of one failing it could possibly be removed and worked on without having to open up the six battery banks. It also gives you a bit more flexibility with weight distribution. Just my opinion. Keep up the good work. Mark K Barge M V Sarah Ireland

I see what you did there ;-) Good vid.

I see what you did there, mermaid 😏🤣

Oh, btw, went to local hobby shop and bought set of router bits for $15. Are they long-term? Hell no! Will they do for 30 cuts I need to do on next 5 projects? For sure.

I disagree. You totally SHOULD make these mistakes. That's why you prototype. Imagine not doing those mishaps now, but with the final version! Another great learning video, btw, thanks for sharing!

I love a good clickbait lol

That's not fair! I have so much to say.

Great fit again. I was thinking, Perhaps you have all ready planned, but are you making some sort of emergency pressure reliefs in case of an unscheduled event? Happy holidays! See you in 2025.

So click-baity... I love it! I have been away from these for a while, it is good to have a quick look to see how things are going :)

are you sure that that cracked harken block is in need of immediate replacement? i cant say for sure but i don't know if that plastic is load bearing or not, that ss frame looks strong still

31:40 Follower from AUS. Your endeavor to include both metric & imperial measurements is appreciated. Just be conscience of the fact that 3 inches its definitely not 75 cm's. Really appreciate you highlighting mistakes - I agree it is the best way to learn.

okay you got me, giggling at that title like and idiot

Are you planned to stick eva foam in between the cels ? I am scared if you scratch the bleu plastic on 2 cels end the aluminium casses touch each other end you have a short. Imagen in the swels from the sea that your cels move end pierce that bleu plastic With that eva foam the cels are projected end les likely to move

OOH LA LA 😻 Grrrr... 😉 @The Digital Mermaid

Would sound easy to just grab a Tesla Battery and slap a suitable BMS on it ? 75 kWh are fairy cheap (used around 4.000 usd), up to 100 kWh available.. But, i would not want to be the one lifting it into the boat :-) and i guess its not all that serviceable eighter.

Best of luck on fitting the necessary batteries into the available space! You know, if you made the OTHER video for this title, you would pay for the whole boat?

I didnt think you had a box?

thanks and same to you

Having to account for the tooling is responsible for some of my grey hairs. Have a breather and I'll see you on the next one. ☃️

Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing

Have a great vacation!

just a small thought for your design, all looks good, i'm sure you will paint with resin etc to make waterproof, but be aware, when it gets wet or soaks up any water it will delaminate very quickly, and possibly faster with a massive weight of batteries inside, you may need to really brace the underside, i might suggest run several 2"+ frames from side to side, and maybe fill the dead space with foam but i am also thinking fire precautions, if you ever end up in a heavy swell, these puppies might well bounce, so strapping down will be essential, i think many of us will be aware of battery fires and how difficult they are to put out, so with all in mind, thickness of ply, the joints in the box etc it will not hurt you to over engineer, under engineer the solutions, and the problems may turn very much against you you can use steel rods and such across the batteries, and have them inserted into polythene water pipe (obviously to prevent shock), it could be made to quick release, but more so to act as a security bar and prevent batteries ever jumping and forcing there way through the box sides, the all that weight, it won't take much, one rogue wave, the box is fine, but maybe an additional wood frame on the sides and another skin perhaps packed with foam - the cat makes me chuckle

You naughty Mermaid , i love it.

Shaving my Box will get some interesting comments

Great analysis, thank you! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?

Do you plan on putting the batteries together in the box in place on the boat? It will be to heavy trying to get it down there I'd think. 😮

Are you going to use Fiberglass Sheets between the cells, you really should consider using them. With all the movement on the boat the cells could easily rub through the thin blue plastic heat wrap. Also will the 5mm rebate on the sides be strong enough to hold the weight of the cells above? would be better to use a 10mm board under to support the weight and direct the weight to bottom of the box.

Nice video again! I do hope you have a good, relaxing and creative vacation!! Some thoughts:) since the mass is so great i would use thickened epoxy to glue it all, but also use a router to plane of 50 x 1,5mm deep on all but the front connecting sides and re-enforce them with glassfiber (1708) and epoxy. The same can be done with the insides but, since glassfiber can't handle straight edges, fillets are needed and thus do take up a little space per side. And times six will add up to 20mm more width needed. Inside i would a thinner glassfiber as well about 250gr/m2. If 20mm still fits, i seen the mass and movement the boat can take, i would take the time and effort. Front cover where you can not use glue, is relatively weak, and screws will wear out on thin material and repeated use. I would use lengths of thread wire 6 or 8 mm and epoxy them in oversized drilled holes and stick them in with thickened epoxy. Drill holes in the front cover, Cut them to right length and use big knobs as the nut. For the sides-front adjustable chest closures will do. In this way the front is clamped and bolted down strong and tight and you don't need tools to open the front. You might want to think k about deepen the groove of the box a little bit more to accommodate a foam strip to prevent rattling from vibration and it will make it more waterproof. As for the attachment of the box to the frame and even hull, you might need to reenforce the last one. extra ribs, and thickness. On 35degree angle hit by a side wave you don't want all that mass moving in or pushing outwards on the hull connection. But i lack the knowledge of your boat hull, or what those force do. Al i know is that on a boat some thing need to be stiff others need to flex. With this change a consult from someone with more knowledge seems to me at least needed. grtz!

I really hate to throw a monkey wrench into your design, but, shouldn’t their be plastic sheets between the battery cells, considering your making a 16S pack? What about the cells wearing against each other over time and shorting out? That’s going to add space for the separators to the design 🙄

Oh c'mon! I only came to make the appropriately filthy comments! (Then again, I'm Australian, it's in my job description.) I've only seen a bit of this video, but have you left enough room for your leads and connectors to each of the cells at the top?

🤞🏼👍🏻🇬🇧🧙🏼‍♂️ Merry Christmas 🎄🎁 🧜🏻‍♀️ have a good one.

a) I love watching you work b) I love watching your brain work c) Screw wood working, gimme steel every time, d) Kitty!!!!!!

The title got me.

Nice to see Mr Bigglesworth keeping an eye on things 😄

I worry a bit that the grooves on the sides will not provide enough support for the shelf. Could you instead, add battens on the sides to support the shelf. You will need to be sure the cabling can fit, but it looks like there is room. That way you can also just lay in the shelf since you would not need to run it in grooves.

Here for the title, stayed for the kittes and woodwoking.

I would not look at getting router bits the finished sizes, go for a smaller diameter and do two passes, the router only cuts neatly in one direction and if you have a bit the size needed for the channel it will splinter out on the opposite side, also if you then wander at all you effect the whole channel, Also you will be able to use the same size cutter for both channel and also the side rebates

I like your choice

Man watching you use that table saw gave me anxiety, Get you a finger saver! (Push stick) you can get them for $10 off the jungle website or just cut a notch into an off cut and use that, keep those precious fingers away from that meat grinder!

Just to point something out, Martina of @NerdForge recently lost a finger on a similar table saw to the best of my understanding. From what I've heard of it she was using the saw on a table much like the one you described. The point here is that it doesn't matter how it's set up. Accidents can still happen. With that I would posit the following. It doesn't matter how it's set up. There's still a chance of getting hurt and it has a lot more to do with how careful we are than how/where the dangerous tool is being used. Forethought is key because stupid hurts. As for removing/replacing cells I would suggest putting them on drawer sliders. I know that adds a bit in the Y axis but the benefit of being able to grab a drawer pull and slide that battery out to manage the cells could save a lot of time and effort. As for the mid point separation, I'd suggest cutting it in half in the port to starboard orientation. It should be able to fit in the lazarette in that size.

Really nice work! The batteries should not be swollen, I think. I have educated myself at "www.youtube.com/@OffGridGarageAustralia", just a tips!

nice channel nice title, merry Christmas

I hate American wires. But you made it 💪🏻

Excited about the next episode, I hope it fits! Have a nice vacation, see you next time.

When shaving your box, make sure you don't accidentally shave your pussy.

You might need a fan on each level if you plan to push more than 0.5C. Put the fan on the front plywood blowing into the left compartment. Drill some holes sideways in the middle walls, and let the air out in the front of the right compartment.

The title got my attention

I have a rule. When connecting a battery, if it arcs, STOP. Something is either wrong, or something with a big capacitor is connected. If I try again and it sparks still, I will not proceed before double checking everything. Before I had this rule the next thing to happen was the wire I just connected melted and was too hot to remove until I used the spanner to clout it.