best idea yet for removing decals safely. I worry about heat guns around fiberglass as they get much hotter than steam and heat is the best way to remove a decal. Great idea!

I had mine into a repair shop, but they did not tie the cord properly and the handle came off, how can I put it back ,I just need to find the end , push it THROUGH and tie it better !! But the whole thing VIBRATES LIKE CRAZY , I. ALMOST CAN NOT HOLD ON TO IT !!! AND, the repair guy sprayed the whole inside with carburator fluid !!!

Perfect! Thanks :)

I know this is sold but I really think I’m gonna look for something like this. Can’t pay $125,000 for a new truck.

What groove? You didn’t show it just mentioned it. Can’t fix based on this video as can’t see how you wound it up and caused tension from the spring

Are you afraid to put the price?Just put a price what's up with that

How much

GOOD JOB Well Done

Well done, a very nice build. I like your attention to detail and it shows in the final product. A bike and job to be proud of.

Thank you fixed exactly what I needed to fix!

Genius, thanks for sharing. I like this idea better than a heat gun.

Wow, this is the best decal removal method on YT

Thank you!!!

My 82 Wagoneer has a factory plate in the floor… which is amazing

Wow everyone should see this

Hi John where did your aftermarket parts from?

I have a 95 sweet water pontoon boat 28year old boat 4 inch decal been on there I covered the 4inch striped around the boat with a new stripe because I didn’t want to deal with trying to take off old one you are a genius 😂 this is awesome for plenty of people who want to remove decals I thought of heat gun or blow dryer but never tried it thank you for sharing enjoy your motor home

Masterpiece ever. Beautiful truck …….Since 2009 ford is garbage. Great

I can’t recommend a penny. They have been copper plated zinc for decades. As we all know, it’s dangerous welding to zinc, or welding with zinc right at the weld. You can easily burn through that very thin copper plate to the zinc. Just go buy a few small pieces of 1/8” thick copper. I use it extensively during welding.

For anyone looking to do this and wanting to use things you can quickly pickup at a nearby hardware store: -Heat gun - plastic razor blade with holder (you need a sharp, stiff tool that won't scratch) -GOOF OFF... NOT goo gone. You can find it in the paint section as a paint and adhesive remover. Remove the decal or graphic with heat and the razor. If they are cracked this will take longer, but if they aren't they will come off in large pieces if you don't use too much heat. I found that the hotter they got the more weak they were and they would just rip. If i got the decal started with the razor and heat, and was able to start peeling it, it would take the adhesive with it, but everywhere that required the heat and razor left the adhesive behind. Fold a rag into 4s. Soak with goof off and hold it onto the glue for a few seconds. Scrape with razor... it came off like butter. It leaves some glue balls but they seriously just wash off when you wash it with a mild abrasive. Wash, dry, and buff. I bought a gallon of goof off and used about half of it on 4ish decals. Some were small and some were large. The goof off does evaporate and you still need gloves and good ventilation... also its flammable so keep away from heat gun. The more the rag is soaked the easier the glue comes off. I watched so many videos telling people to by graphx remover, some special 30$ tiny spray bottle of remover, or rubber wheels...i spent like 26$ on the gallon but you can use goof off for so much stuff. Mineral spirits and acetone didn't hold a flame to it... because my step dad thought he knew better and wanted me to try it. I already owned a heat gun but the are cheap. The pack of plastic razor blades was about 6$ and i bought my stuff at ace... which is more expensive than just about every other hardware store. For about 50$ and 20 minutes in a hardware store you will have all you need. Obviously, be careful with the heat gun and don't burn your gel coat or paint. It took me about 3 hours and 15 minutes to remove all of the 4ish ones i had to do.

😍

What is the name of the wheels?

Nice restoration, love the color ❤

Everybody's so set on making it stock but if you don't have a good base to go from yeah it gets crazy expensive. I kept mine stock cuz it was in great condition when I bought it and I only had to fill in a few parts. But I love it with people take one that's totally roached messed up and just make it their own. I think you did a great job. I would love to get one. That's pretty roached and just kind of make it into a custom design with the 125 or 140 nice work. Thanks for the video

Thank you!

I have found when they are cracked (the stickers) they are still a pain to get off.

Fantastic!!!!

Excellent video and correctly showing how to fix the slack! Unlike most videos that get it wrong. Was a bit quiet at times though, but helpful and simple explanation.

Did you use a petcock?

Beautiful bike, thank you for the great video! I am completing the exact same project: year, condition, engine kit, finally convinced myself to abandon the very fine factory levers, throttle and switches… My question is, what brake cables did you use to connect the new levers to factory brakes? Also, any tips on the battery and bulbs? Thank you again, great bike, and great job.

This is the best method I’ve seen

Wow - incredible work. Congratulations.

How do you handle controlling the fan when you require heat if your relay is not activated then the furnace will be on but there will be no blower motor that could cause problems?

So I was the first to expose the Internet. See this seems like others are finally catching on kudos

Thank you!

Great idea! I just bought a steamer. Great job buffing it out and bringing back the shine.

Cool bike, I want to do a motor swap also as you have given me much inspiration. I have the same bike that is in similar condition like when you fist got yours! Could you provide a link to where you purchased the motor. Thanks!

Yea tips where did u get parts,?

Awesome!!!!!!

Nice cheater hole! I wish i had one on mine.

Thanks. That helps.

Thinking about doing this. I assume your compressor is using 120, since the white wire is tied to your neutral. Is it fair to say your contactor is switching both the hot and neutral on and off together? My air compressor is 240v(no neutral), and I wonder if it's possible to safely make this a 240v by trading the neutral going to the contactor for the second hot from the other leg of my 2 pole 20A breaker. Of course I would have to tap the sonoff's power into another breaker, unless the sonoff can operate at 240v also.

Great video! Just started work on my 64 CT200. I purchased the exact same Lifan 125 kit. Your video has/is/will help immensely. Thank you!

Wow I never thought of that! I have taken countless decals off of farm equipment when I worked at the dealership, all with a heat gun and a razor blade, it was awful! This looks sooo much better! Thank you for sharing!

Thanks for posting , I had been working on my funhauler using a heat gun and plastic scrapers . It was working but taking forever. Tried the steam cleaner and it was much easier and way faster. My rig is 20 years old and all the decals were pealing and badly cracked. Looks so much better now after the buffing .

CT200-130224 is the serial number on the one I just got!

Oh I wanna take after this and do what you did with the aftermarket and modern accessories! beautiful breath of new life!

Great job mate , but cant see indicators with lights on ? Beware of that i had to put my old indicators on as well so people could see em 👍🇬🇧

Wow, looks like I'm lucky to find one without rust

Thank you!