Ya, I don't blame you. It's pain!!

Thanks 😊

What!? That can't be right. What a pain!

Thank you, that's really kind of you to say. I agree, some design choices are questionable. Also, Wait until you find out the process to install the fog lamps!!

Ah thanks 😊

I personally have found the standard front fork setup perfect (for preload, sag etc), however the standard rear spring on the AT is quite weak. If you want to get proper rider sag without full preload, you should have a stiffer spring in the rear.

Ah nice!!

It's probably because it's too cold to start charging. The environment is too cold or the surroundings area is too cold.

You don't need to remove the wheel if you can spin it. I would suggest using a cloth to cover the plastic wheel and then use a wrench or something to move it. But please be careful!

Yes, a low seat on the lowest setting will be fine for you. Keep in mind, the tall wind shield does obstruct your view a bit, especially if it is dirty from road grime and bugs splatter.

@@Captain_Tipsy thanks man this is OEM SEAT i can get in HONDA Dubai?and tha price plz

It's a heavy bike, but nimble when moving.

You would need to adjust your suspension to accommodate extra weight so set your suspension to a "hard" setting. Meaning righty tighty setting. You'll probably need to start from zero, so lefty loosy your rear suspension all the way down and then righty tighty to all the way up. Do that on both rear suspension setting points. Now you establish how many turns it takes to go from full low settings (zero) to the full highest setting and then find a balance. For example if you lefty loosy all the way down then go righty tighty to all the way up, you get 15 turns or clicks. To accommodate your suspension with load I would set up my suspicion to 9 or 10 clicks. Hope that makes sense.

Thank you, Ill give it a try. @@Captain_Tipsy

Nice!

To adjust preload on your bike. If you are carrying a pillion or luggage, it might be best to adjust your suspension to harder settings.

Absolutely, that's what I use on long rides. It's most fuel efficient.

Just like any other piece of machine. It needs calibration to work efficiently, essentially improving fuel mileage.

Thanks for the update. Pinned.

Hold a throttle 100% open while the engine is off ?

@@user-rp5pe7pd6g Yes.

Where did you get that info from?

@philipmccarthy8726 the World Wide Web 😊

Yes, I've ridden it. Not good on ass. Very thin padding.

Thank you 😊

Next to the battery, just enough space between battery and bike body.

@@Captain_Tipsy thanks for that, would that outside the battery case cover wedged between the frame.

Yes. Managed to squeeze it in just right.

Hi, For power, P and engine braking, EB: 1 is high, meaning lower the number higher the power output. Traction, T: higher number is better traction. Press the left T button to cycle through traction settings. Press and hold to turn off traction completely.

@@Captain_Tipsy Thanks. I’m still trying to figure out the relationship between power and traction and how the three modes (P + EB + TC) can be optimized for normal tarmac conditions.

Lower Power number is how quicker your throttle feels. 1 would be very responsive and jumpy throttle. 3 is what I like to think is an fuel efficient setting. 2 is mid range. Traction control number is how much you want your rear wheel to spin freely. For example if you turn off your traction control you can spin your rear wheel whilst holding front brake. If your Traction control is on 7 you wheels basically don't spin freely as much. I'm Probably doing a poor job explaining this. For normal Tarmac, I run 3-3-7 settings. It's "fuel efficient" compared to other riding modes. If you want more power run 1-1-6. If you want rear wheel spins lower T setting

It's Traction control. Press it to set it to 0 and let the wheels spin!

Good point. Here have a read here: www.dirtrider.com/what-you-need-to-know-about-africa-twin-suspension-chassis-and-everything-else-3-3/