@@SubterraneanRalph lol.. thanks. All hand made. Hope I gave you some good ideas. The best thing so far is the gorilla buckets, I haul up over 120lbs of dirt in each one. Amazing the handles hold steady. Thanks for watching.

@@jagboy69 some good ideas for sure.

Then ya got a good one. Lucky you!

The heater in this video was brand new straight out of the box. The company tried to tell me it was dust. Bunch of BS is what it was. After I moved the t-couple closer to the flame, the heater has been great. It was just when it was running it would draw the flame away from the thermal coupler, it would cool down and shut down.

@jagboy69 I have no problem believing that especially with a new unit, but I recently fixed one almost identical and it was just a dirty pilot office but it was several years old and was restricted enough flame wasn't touching thermocouple

@@seymourscagnetti1413 Thanks. I'm still digging! I've hit the worst layer of rock and clay. Very slow going!🫣 Thanks for stopping by!

@@ctoomuch Maybe.. but lubrication and cooling fluid isn't really required when machining aluminum. I kinda think chip evacuation is more important at these cutting speeds. Cutting dry ensures you dont have a clumpy mess and preserving the life of the 8dolllar saw blade is pretty low on my list in this case.

@@NoferTrunions Nah.. same thing. Blasts right through it. Keep in mind, you aren't getting a precision cut here.. It's a skill saw at the end of the day.😜

@@jagboy69 I've got a Walker Turner 14" wood & metal cutting band saw and I'm going to do circular saw since better finish. I've but to cut about 3' of 3/8"

@@NoferTrunions It's gonna zing right through 3/8" material. Cover up and go for it! I used a cheap carbide blade and do not mount the blade backwards or the teeth will break off. lol

@@jagboy69 Of course when cutting trim roll or flashing (or vinyl) definitely backward teeth. ....wonder what the transition thickness is between forward and backward teeth?

@@NoferTrunions don't know.. good question.

nope.. just get the right spec.

Probably! Hasn't changed the way it oils my table.

110lbs!

I never had a chance to write one up. It's actually not that hard. Just like a woman, let the VFD think it's controlling everything, when you are actually using the factory lathe switches to run it. Look close at the controls on my machine, you will see it.

lol.. It's thicker than 1 inch!

ولكنه قطعها امام اعيننا فيجب علينا ان نتقبل ذالك انه العلم

and they are stupid expensive.

sorry, I don't know for sure. If all those Chinese boxes run on the same frequency, it should work.

Did ya take your photo? Go back to the way it was originally, try it, then do it again. Put a VOM on your down on the remote box and see if you get any power there. It might be the remote board.

@@jagboy69 thanks. I think it might be the board. I ordered new one

​@chrisholt6136is this work

any cheap blade

@@jagboy69 a blade from r metal? Thought u said plywood blade or sum

@@MrBigdaddy88069 no just a cheap wood blade. Not a plywood blade. Spin it in the normal direction if you were cutting a 2x4.

So just tell em I want a wood cutting blade any tooth numbers not trying to bug u just need help bad I got a lot to cut and any info will be appreciated

@@MrBigdaddy88069 28tooth should work. I used a 10dollare Diablo blade from the home depot. Clamp your work and let the saw do the work. Don't force it. Cover up, the chips hurt when they hit you.

Arizona sculpture supply store. The wax I use is their 2ab150 j Mac wax. It costs more than the bronze! I reclaim my wax and filter through pantyhose. All the best!

It would help first to know what you are dealing with. A contactor is a switch designed to do the heavy lifting connecting power to something. That big switch can be controlled with a small wire. That small wire is doing its job through the remote. I don't know how someone else wired their setup, but mine works great using contactors. This crappy little Chinese remote will NEVER be able to switch this kind of electrical load. If it can, it won't do it for very long before letting out the smoke.😮

who was that? I'm still around.. and still digging. lol

@@jagboy69 kzbin.info/www/bejne/anSsmqyvqqehhsU

It's still working good for me!! It's picking up 100lb buckets of dirt like candy!

@@jagboy69 Mine is a 'Giant' brand and is rated to 1000lbs. I have mine mounted on a gantry crane that is 10ft off the ground so anything you lift is directly above you with the original controls. I personally don't want to be under the suspended load of a China winch!

If the weight of the concrete, the lift, amd the cars exceed the boyancy force, it won't float. Simple math my friend!

I don't even think it's so much the blade. I like them, they are cheap and have a thin kerf. Best of luck! And COVER UP if you try this. Those chips really go flying!😮

Sharp tin snips?? 3mm is pretty thin stuff. How about a jig saw?

7grand? what planet are you living on. Yeah I agree the chiller is not worth the money.

@jagboy69 I said for the Setup... Meaning the TIG and cooler.... On second thought, your probably right because I bet it's closer to $10G

@@trevordeemie674 I paid $2400 for the invertig and 700 for the cooler with the torch.

@@jagboy69 I thought they were way more than that... I thought they were priced like Miller

Thanks Angel! Glad to hear you're nice and dry. The problem I have here with my hole is I do not have access to the back side of the walls and floor. I could if I removed the entire floor in my garage. So the method I am employing here is called blindsided waterproofing. It's pretty tricky to do correctly. Thanks for watching!

I have a couple of times in the dark! lol This is a pretty high risk job so it's gotta be done right the first time.

How you been brother???

​@@jagboy692 teenagers keeping me on my toes. Might be needing a secret escape tunnel like yours soon... You?

is the up contactor clicking??

@@jagboy69 yes I even put my hand on top of each contactor to ensure they were

@@dickiedentonii6124 Then the remote and contactor side of things is fine. Did the winch go UP before? If so, it's gotta be how you wired the up to the contactor. Pretty hard to mess that one up. Remember, IF that UP shutoff switch on the winch is engaged, it would prevent it going up. I'd look there. Be sure that switch on the winch isn't engaged.

Yup. Mine is doing fine. No limit switches. When I shut down for the day, I usually unplug it. Wise man once said, Trust no cheap Chinese electrical products.

Are you sure you have the right contactors??

@@jagboy69 thanks for the reply I appreciate it. I built an elevator for my grandparents to get from their car in the garage up to their house above it. Works great when it works but these boxes keep failing. I really would like to find one of good quality but having a hard time.

@@Kitch940 Slick idea to help out the grand parents! I wonder if your contractors are staying electrified and cooking the cheap white box. Your limit switches need to be removing power from the terminals on the sides of your contactors after they take it up or down.

@@jagboy69 double pole 120v 30a contractors wired up like you did. Maybe I should but everything on a switch because it always is powered on and never gets turned off. Shouldn’t matter but could help.

I have been working with a company for a water proofing solution for my concrete since hitting my seasonal water table. I haven't given up yet and this is stupid expensive so it must be done right. Thanks for checking in!😉

Take a peek at my channel and you will see the difficult blindside water treatment solution I am working on. The sika stuff I showed in the video sucks. It's really an old idea and systems have evolved immensely in just the last 10years. I have a new product that just hit the market in september in testing right now. I am having some small growing pains learning the system, but when it works, you can't tear this stuff off concrete with a tow truck! It's seriously that good! My initial tests looked bad on video and in order to be fair, I am working with the manufacturer to give them a fair shake at what looks like a game changer in this market. Stay tuned and thanks for your comment. I'm not a concrete guy, I just play one on youtube. ;-)

@@jagboy69 I've looked at your project and it looks very interesting and challenging. I have used many different sheet systems over the years and will say that Sika A+ is up there with the very best. Given free choice I'd use it over anything else. The reason being that it offers the best seam to seam bonding. We now heat weld all of our seams together so effectively they are vulcanised and nothing will get them apart. If you create a system that is a complete envelope If you are going to be putting chairs on the ground to support your reinforcing how will you peel off the tape on the PMH 3040 under the chairs and get the concrete to bond? I think you are putting too much emphasis on how well the material bonds to the concrete which is largely irrelevant. For a waterproofing solution to be effective the most important thing is that water can't get between it and the concrete and that all comes down to sheet to sheet joins, internal/external corners and dealing with penetrations. Even if the sheet were loose laid with zero bond it would still be 100% effective if you get the details right. Try taking some of your very sticky stuff on a piece of concrete as you have but then submerge it in water for a week or two... see how well bonded it is then? I'd be interested to see how it deals with submersion What are you going to use as a blinding layer that the membrane will be applied to?

@@Darryl-du2pw While I can appreciate the idea of a completely sealed envelope, I know my track record. I'm a belt and braces sort. All it takes is one screw up on my part and water gets between a membrane and the concrete, it will eventually find a way into my E-type. As you know, ALL concrete cracks. The issue is where is the actual leak and that's impossible to determine when the water traveled down a wall 15feet. If the material is bonded to the back of the wall, you can bet the leak is right where you see it. I have done submersion tests with the OY material with no change in bond strength. That HDPE they use is very difficult to puncture while I can damage SIKA A+ with an ink pen. The bad news is actually getting PMH3040 is probably not going to happen. I refuse to get tangled up with importing a container again, that's a major PITA! OY only wants to ship using FEDEX and the shipping way more than the material. So I am trying a stateside option.

A blinding layer isn't required any of these HDPE membranes. It gets laid directly on the soil.

@@jagboy69 The problem with the systems you like is that they rely on tape to seal seams or on an adhesive on the back to seal the seams. Either way, they are going to require strong continuous pressure with a pressure roller to seal them tightly together. That will be very hard to do up against uneven soil I've waterproofed many basements and never without a blinding. The membrane needs to be mechanically attached to something otherwise it will be ripped off the wall when you pour your concrete. Even the technical data for the PMH 3040 you have mentioned requires mechanical fastening on vertical planes. You can't mechnically fasten into soil. When we do A+ we generally shotcrete the wall, trowel it flat, apply the membrane with mechanical fastenings and washers using a Hilti gun, detail over those fastenings and at junctions etc. then formwork, then detail and starter bars in the blinding layer and then shotcrete. I would never install a blindside system up against soil

Yes, brass is easily brazed with a flame. You just can't use a tig torch to braze because it gets too hot.