Yes. Same exact thing.

@@Turbo_Snail thanks for the prompt response. and not changing this can result in Head Gasket blown and then new engine?

No. Just engine leaking all over the place and possibly, worst case, contamination between oil and coolant and then possibly engine failure. But that gotta leak a lot for a long time to get there.

@@Turbo_Snail Thanks again for the response. When you say longgggg time you mean 1 year? Last year in March 2024 I had radiator leak and fully replaced in my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica (now 100,000 miles). Since then in Oct of 24 and just last week we had (P0306) Cylinder 6 misfire and coils and plugs replaced. Now the mechanic says to get rid of the car if the check engine light doesn't come because it could lead to further issues like Head gasket blown and even if we repair that then misfire can happen and full engine. Chrysler forums are full of that stuff. Can you please guide me further what to do?

Honestly, this was almost 2 years ago. I put a link in the description for a set on Amazon.

Wow. That’s a lot of labor for only a $100 part.

If they can even detect it, it would. But they are so similar and they are both from Mopar, so the chances are minimal

Well that’s a new one. Maybe that piece broke and got lodged in there.

Never happened while I was using it.

@Turbo_Snail ok! Gonna give this a try this weekend! Thanks for showing how it's done 💯

You don't have to drain if there is no cross contamination. You'll see once you're in there. The oil possibly, the coolant, probably not. But inf in doubt, change it. It might be about due anyways. The torque will be in your manual. People being different products, the plastic ones are spec'd lower than the metal ones. All other specs are posted in the video and description.

@Turbo_Snail that's the problem the aluminum one is bought didn't have instructions I've used one in my other dodge vehicle si I know it's a good one I'm just not sure if 106 inch pnds is what I used to torque down the unit to the block.

Wide range. $1100-16,1700 at a dealer or DIY for about $300ish

if you catch any spillage you should be good. remember oil and water don't mix (easy). It's really up to you to determine how much oil fell into the coolant. I would recommend an oil change either way.

I would clean it up and see whether it actually leaks. The tech probably just made a mess.

How much they charge you

The computer will adjust for you up to a point. Yes, it will work, but if you then tune on top of it, it'll be even more noticeable.

Just use some assembly fluid. Oil works but I prefer using proper lubricants for the job. You don’t want to pinch an o-ring when they get squeezed at high torque between metal parts.

It’s not for everyone. But I try to take the fear out of the process for the ones who would like to attempt it. Make sure they use Dorman and not whatever is on their shelf.

I’ve seen anywhere from $1600-2000 but I also heard of as much as $2500

I love that. Thank you. This is the only reason I still keep doing this. I’m so happy it helped.

I would recommend that. However, I’m waiting to do that for a video. I’m at 89k miles. It’ll be done soon.

That is thread locker. What it does, it keeps the bolt from rattling loose over time. Now, this is blue thread locker which is removable. If you end up using red, you will not be able to remove that bolt anymore. In regards to lubricating the gasket, yes, you can use oil as well. I ended up getting the assembly fluid a few years back when I pinched an o-ring on my injectors and I had fuel spraying everywhere. I've been using this ever since. It is a bit more sticky and will stay with the part rather than run off.

If everything goes well you could possibly do this in 2-3 hours (also depends on how through you want to be with cleaning). However, if you don't drain the coolant before hand and you don't work fast enough, you'll have to keep clearing out coolant from the valley. Another place where you might get stuck is the fuel injector clips. Make sure that you have a pick set because 2 of mine were stuck, they were on the back of the engine towards the driver side so I just left them in and tied the lower intake to the hood to get it out of the way. If you're going to reuse the sensors (I did), I would try to take the out before you remove the oil cooler. Assembly lube on the air filter box hose and throttle hose will make that easier to put back on.

2-3 maybe even 4 hours is a fair estimate. It took me 6 because I'm filming it.

@@Turbo_Snail thanks.

@@jamesrobnett3590 it would seem like a good time to replace the spark plugs and coils.

@@robtankbuster5215 Totally agree. One thing I do like to think about is after you do this once, it's a little smoother and easier to take it apart and put it back together. A pry bar is nice too for the metal bar the upper intake is bolted on to closest to the driver side. Have you done the job yet?

Actually, dry starts are not as damaging to the engine as driving aggressively while the engine is cold. I have some papers on that and was thinking of how to do a video explaining that. I’m just a terrible script writer. My videos are non scripted and i dont do well with written stuff. Also, these types of oil filters are now on pretty much every vehicle. All my newer cars at home and at work have them like this. Just look at the Mercedes videos I did. I think that’s when Chrysler started doing them as well. Looks identical.

because it is not moving smoothly, it gets stuck before you're able to get it all up. There is a little flat spot that it rests in (on the stick). When you lube it, it will just get and rest in that flat spot rather than almost get there and not rest in it. If it's for a car that is designed the same way, it will work.

I was at the Jeep dealership picking up parts and they said they keep 30 in stock at all times because they do so many of these jobs. They also do so many that they have to use aftermarket plastic ones cause they normally run out of the OEM part. Not sure where you got that info from.

Possibly, I actually just looked at our RAM Promaster 1500 and 63k miles, it sprung a leak. It's very little so I'll wait before taking it all apart.

Yes it is

I guess it’s probably a 1.5-2 hour job. It took me about 4 because I have to deal with the camera setup and framing and audio and, and, and…. My jobs take anywhere from 2-3x of what a reasonable non-mechanic should take.

Thank you! I appreciate that.

Thanks! It really makes the front end pop.

Make sure you use assembly fluid wherever you can. Don’t want to pinch on o-ring.

Some people got the money. Its just hard to justify a $1200 repair on a $2500 car.

I appreciate that!

Thank you. I appreciate your comment.

Yes, I did, later than this video happened. Check out my other content or the Pentastar Playlist.

I have two videos on that topic. The first one I removed the plastic part and installed the shifter back into the vehicle. That let me shift anytime like what you are describing. This video shows how I put an aftermarket part back in that puts that "safety feature" back in. What happens, you should not be able to shift without putting your foot on the break. It sounds like you either didn't install that part correct or it may have slipped and bypasses what it's supposed to do. If I had small kids who I leave in the car, that safety feature is a must. However, in my case, I am okay without it. If this bothers you. Remove the gear shifter again, take it apart and make sure that part is in the correct orientation. The way this works. When you have key in the ignition, it provides power via a power cable to the shifter. Then when you step on the brake, the solenoid pushes against the plastic/metal replacement part and pushes the lockout pin out of the way enabling you to shift. Your replacement part does not properly lock your shifter back into place. Again, it's really a personal preference. Your car should properly shift without any issues, just your lockout in the shifter assembly doesn't work.

Thank you very much for your reply. You are right. I don’t have any kids in the car to worry about for the time being. However I’ll make a note to go in again and identify the part you are talking about, or check the solenoid. Thanks 🙏

I promise, it’s 99.99999% not the solenoid. I’m glad at least your car is drivable again.

I don’t think so. It’s right where it needs to be.

Wow, that is absolutely nuts. And then they'll fit another plastic one in there. Thanks but no thanks. It's easier than it looks. Make sure you torque correctly in in-lb and ft-lb. Some people made mistakes there.

@Turbo_Snail thanks for the heads up I gotta buy a torque wrench yet but I'll get it!

@frank7131989 I put a link in the description with some cheap ones that work. Can’t go wrong with harbor freight either. They have proven reliable for me.

no, I did not drain coolant or oil before starting. I did an oil change right afterwards. Now, I put about 30k miles on the car and still everything is perfect.

That's actually not too bad but this is an easy one.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks you. It means a lot.

is that why they RIPP coils keep failing?

🤷‍♂️

I understand, some people don't get it.

@Turbo_Snail other video helped a ton thank you.

Thanks

Thanks. Yeah it takes a bit of work to save $1600

Yes. I always ask Siri or google to convert. I was thinking to just do like the rest of the world and do nm going forward. I have gotten nasty comments from people who couldn’t tell in/lb and ft/lb apart and I admit it’s very confusing. The problem is, I’d need to buy new torque wrenches. That being said, the oil filter cap and the plastic intake specifies things in newton meters and cars almost 10 years old. It’s time to switch. But yes, google is your best friend doing conversions.

Thank you!

Uh. I didn’t know mishimoto made one too. I guess it was just a matter of time. Yes, this is holding up excellent. I actually just checked this weekend and it’s perfect. No difference in performance. The bracket on the back is still there and I hate removing the nut from there but I’ll keep it stock. Let me know how your install goes.

@PTSRacing I've been doing a lot of research on this and you may want to use OEM o-rings for the Mishimoto. I saw one guy in a for whose went bad in 500mi.

Oh danged. That sucks. That’s a pretty big job if you gotta do it again after 500 miles. I use Dorman. Still no leaks. I just checked before I answered. My video is about 1-1.5 years old?

I’m glad it helped :)

I did an oil change right afterwards. If there isn’t any cross contamination, perhaps it’s not necessary. If you’re close to a change anyways, I would say just do it.

I don't mind not having this safety feature in it. Some people think it's dangerous. I for one don't let 3 year olds drive my car so it should be okay. Basically if you remove that, you don't have to step on the brake anymore to shift out of park. Can it be dangerous? Perhaps? But that is up to you to decide whether this is a feature you must have. If you do, follow my link and buy a metal version of that plastic part from Amazon. It's okay enough if you want to put it in.

thank you my friend thanks to you I saved 150 dollars In Poland such a service costs I will tell you that it is safe without it, because nothing will block you anymore, and with this plastic maybe something can always block you in my opinion it is made so that the car is not stolen it is primarily a protection against car theft, or maybe it is made of plastic specially so that in case of emergency it can be broken manually because you will not break the metal one maybe that is the whole philosophy, Thank you again my friend how many people are happy with you how much good you have done for everyone it is a pity that I cannot send you a picture of my S class, because it is really beautiful maybe I will find your email and send it to you Once again warm greetings Waldek 👋🏾

I think, like on a manual where you need driver input to shift to a certain extent, you need a driver to push the brake to shift out of park. This way a passenger doesn't shift mistakenly. When you drive manual you usually pull the e-brake, however, automatic drivers often dont do that. Here in the USA, this service would be over $1000 as the dealer will not fix the broken plastic but install a complete new shifter. $150 sounds a lot more reasonable than what they do over here. Yes, I would love to see your ride. I enjoy seeing what other people do to their cars. I'm from Austria so I'm used to people working on the body, the interior and a bit on the engine. Here most cars just have crazy engine work and very little on the outside. I enjoy watching KZbin videos from Wolfgangsee where they have several meets a year, even back in the day when I used to live there. I'd love to visit and perhaps participate in such an event again. Please email me @ [email protected]