Sorry, sold it last year for $10.5K.

@@chargerr4807 Fair price. I would've bought it.

Awesome! I haven't watched that film since the 80s! :)

Yes, very hard to watch now, but back then, 1981, those old 70s cars were worth nothing, so they will usually smash up those cheap cars in an episode. The 80s cars were new cars, and more valuable, so they were used for glamorous scenes. :)

LOL, hard to say with the grainy video. I bet its a real dude in there! If you check the chev that flies over it, that driver ducks down flat on the bench. With a tiny budgets, and no tech, they musta hired real people!!??

Hmmm... I noticed on mine that if there is a large variation of individual voltages, it wouldn't charge either. I manually charged each cell to be about 5% total variation, and then the charger flashed green. Its complained once since, but after leaving it alone, it went back to green. I think the internal circuit tries to even the cells out if possible. If you have a charger with external leads, and if that is the issue with your pack, then you may be able to individually charge those ones that are out of range and give it another shot. But if you have warranty, that's even better! :)

@@chargerr4807 Greenworks made me go thru some troubleshooting hoops, but they are sending out a replacement battery for free. Pretty glad I ordered directly thru them, it wasn't a difficult process.

@@copycat923 Awesome! Manufacturers hate batteries because they are such liabilities, so you have a real win there! Go Greenworks!

LOL, they all became good friends, went back to the precinct to put in a Hulk Hogan VHS tape, drink some Labatt 50 and smoke some Player's. :)

Leaking Nitrous Oxide tanks

That kit was about $400 when it came out, but I haven't seen it available in years. But checking Amazon, there are lots of good kits but requires a bit more wiring and fitment to do.

LOL, I hear ya! Its hard to say where the paint will be going, as I am neck deep in rusty metal at the moment. For my build, I am really liking the beat up, patina look so far. But as long as I can address the rot, then there is limitless potential! But if I could get a line in a real DK41, that would be a dream!

No there is not much space, unless they build a bigger battery pack, or use higher capacity cells. Some snowblowers have a double battery system for this reason.

@@chargerr4807 I have the 2 stage 80V greenwork and it come with same dimension battery as you but they are 4Ah, so I guess they use double capacity cells. They are also much heavier then the 2Ah. I have been using it for 3 years, summer (mower, weed eater, leaf blower) and winter and I have 2 of the 3 battery that are not working anymore, one I can still charge it manually with my DC power supply, I put it at 82V 1A and its able to charge it 100% and it work fine in my blower (But still red light on charger), the other one also charge on my DC power supply but it does not discharge, the blower detect it as bad as soon as I start it, so I'm guessing this one have a bad cell in it :(

@@hyksos2 Thanks for the info, I'd be curious to see what it looks like inside. A 4Ah battery doesn't exist as far as I know. Yes, the Chinese put those ratings on them, but they aren't real, so I wonder if they re-arrange the shape to fit double the battery, or maybe they don't use 1860 type, and use a thicker type? But yes, if the charger will not charge it, then it probably has a cell out of range. Ie, the variation between cells is greater than a certain amount. On the battery I have, one of the cells seems to be weaker than the rest, and it makes my charger flash red sometimes, but if I use the blower, and drain it a bit, and then charge it again, it works, so for sure there is a bad battery in there. Do you have the ability to take it apart?

ok so I opened my bad one, it have 20 cells, 17 are at 4.07 volt, 2 at 3.89 and 1 at 3.2v :( The cabling is also much different they now use flex PCB on the side for the load balancing connections, seems much cleaner. I'll see if I can replace only the 3.2v cell ... never did that kind of stuff

@@hyksos2 Yikes, yeah, that 3.2V will kill it. But sounds like they are normal 18650 cells still? So... they are rated at 4Ah? Wow, I have some high quality batteries out of a work laptop, HP, and they are measuring at 3Ah, and that's the highest I've ever seen. You can try the Amazon 4Ah, but I understand they aren't actually measuring that high, but give it a shot, hopefully I'm wrong. Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

How did you make the connection that MBCluster was run by me?

@@chargerr4807 I understand my replies are disappearing - but where can those videos be accessed?

@@mutleybird MBCluster changed owners a few years back, including all IP, hardware, KZbin account, videos, etc etc. Not sure where all the videos went? Shoot me an email at [email protected] to chat.

@@chargerr4807 Sent an email 2 days ago. Did you get it?

Yes, I'm working on improving my narration skills. :)

LOL! No rust on this car. But I have seen worse on old Dodges.... :)

@@chargerr4807 no not rust. Ford didn't weld the floor pans in correctly in the Fox body 81-82 cars. And the seat fell through the floor. That's Ford quality for you. 81-82 Mercury Crappy too.

@@charlessmith3758 Wow, I didn't know that. I guess its exclusive to the Mustang, as I see lots of older 70s Lincolns with bodies still in good shape. I'm a Dodge guy, and I can vouch for the crappy metal they put in there, but at least the welds are pretty consistent.

Igloo could custom design one with lights!

Awesome information, and thanks for the part#, I will look it up! If I can make a complete gearbox out of this old one, it will come in useful as a spare one day! I had a sneaky suspicion that the diff is found elsewhere in another model but had no means of knowing. Thank you, and god bless social media! :)

Great idea! here are many kits on Amazon, just buy the front or rear wheel of choice. I would recommend 500W 48V kit, and then get the biggest battery you can afford, say 20Ah, and you are all set. Jus ta bit of work to put it together, good luck!

Thanks for watching! These cars are available at all price points, depending on condition, you just have to move to America. :)

Sorry bro, sold.

She's a beauty! :)

Interesting info, thanks fort sharing! If you are in the market, this sweet ride can be yours, just check the description for links. :)

Another channel said Coker Tire remakes them !!

Hello, the Kia oil is a 70W synthetic oil, but I used regular 75W90 oil from Canadian tire, no problems. Good luck!

@@chargerr4807 thank you so much, appreciated, also how much it is 1L or more ? do you think it is good to use the transmission flush liquid like liqui moly pro-line before fill up new oil ? just simply flush old one and fill with new ?

@@TVTV-gq8oj nothing magical here. No clutches, no bronze. Just buy quality multi grade gear oil and change often (min 1X/yr). I added 2 bottles.

Yikes, but from what I hear, $7K sounds cheap! Are they offering to replace the whole unit? I was quoted $12K just to purchase the part, then its another 10+ hours of labour. I think the price is roughly $20K Canadian, so you are somehow getting a wiked bargain!

@@chargerr4807 wow, yes the whole unit. I think I'm going to have to cut my losses unless I can find an independent shop that is will to do it for $4500 or less (part is about $2800 online). I might also try and call corporate because I've had issues with my car rolling while in "park" before and they couldn't replicate the issue while it was under warranty.

Its a cute little car, the more it hangs around the more I'm growing fond of it! :) But it needs a good owner! facebook.com/marketplace/item/3285073495135351/

Because its keeping me up.... :)

Looking for $13K Canadian, or $10K USD. If in US, there is a shipping company here that'll take care of everything for you, at a reasonable price.

10k??? No way

​@@imakeituptoyoua 1982 in that condition is in fact worth around 10 grand. Them 4 eye models "next to the notchbacks" are the one's people really want.

Bought mine in ‘84 with 24k miles. Drove back and forth to Norfolk Naval Base numerous times through ‘88. All stock in scarlett red and different factory rims and it was a 5-speed.

@@Propointmedia LOL, the eighties were awesome! And some cars will always be classics! You're right about the trans, its 4-speed. I will update the title. But hey, if you want to relive the glory days, she's still for sale! facebook.com/marketplace/item/3285073495135351/

@@chargerr4807 I would’ve loved to have gotten another ‘82….. been kicking myself for nearly 35 years for getting rid of it. Turning 60 at the end of this year, so I treated myself earlier this week to a black ‘08 GT/CS w/63k….. my remedy for a midlife crisis. Lol.

@@Propointmedia Awesome! I don't think you can go wrong with Mustang....unless its electric! LOL!

Were you and Kirk chasing other guys?

Thank for watching. The documentation shows the undercoating started in 1982, and every couple years since then, so the owner just wanted to preserve the vehicle. Its a true 11K Km car. Here is the kijii ad, car is available in Toronto : www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/city-of-toronto/1982-ford-mustang-5-0-gt-4-speed-11k-original-km/1696946529

I bought it at a ebike store auction. But these were sold about 10-15 years ago online. There were a few companies making them back then. But because the battery would always die, I think people stopped buying these. Now the kits they sell have separate batteries, and is a better idea.

LOL, sometimes you just don't want to go near a black car after a good cleaning! No trim, no bling, just black. :)

@@chargerr4807 looks fantastic 👍👍👍👍.

Hello, this is a 24V motor, so electrically, you can use either a SLA or lithium 24V equivalent for power. The original battery shell is custom mounted to the bike and fits perfectly and locks into place. So if you have that, and its dead, you can gut it and replace the cells. If you don't have it, then you have to cobble something together to get it to work. Best of luck!

LOL, the internet! :)

I didn't replace the bearings myself, so i don't know, sorry.

The most common failure bearing is KBC F-602024 (30x62x16). The intermediate shaft bearings do not fail. The tapered roller bearings on the differential are NSK R50-62SD (49.9x80x15.4mm) and should be replaced. 2 of each needed.

​@@derekschulze9578 Moin. Endlich schreibt mal einer was für Lager da Verbaut sind. Ja unser Soul EV macht auch dieses Surren. Kia will 3600€+700€ Einbau und Öle haben🤯. Also doch wieder Selber machen. Die Lager Angaben sind auch richtig?

@@EdeWolf Ich habe die Eingangswelle und die Differentiallager durch jeweils zwei der folgenden ersetzt: SKF 6206-2RS1 (Kunststoffdichtungen entfernen) SKF 32010 X

Interesting, I will tend to believe it. Around 1975, all the land yachts were just parked at the dealership and used car lots, no one could afford the gas. So making some more appealing, or if a customer had a wish, I can imagine how hard a salesman would work to get that sale!

LOL, yes, the heavy hubcaps were holding the trunk lid down. :) I couldn't even put the tumbler back in until I turned the car around. But its in now and the lid shuts, a journey of 1000 miles..... :)

Thanks for watching! Rubber front 225/70/15, rear 275/60/15. Wheels are from Wheel Vintiques - 15" steel, 7" front, 8" rear. Reaar spacing I believe I used 4" BS and 8" rim, so 50/50.

Thanks for watching, my configuration basically duplicates the original config. All balance wires connect to positive terminals, so B1+ connects to battery 1, positive side. B1 is the first battery in the chain, where its NEGATIVE side connects to the circuit board negative lead. So battery 5 would be the last in the chain, where its POSITIVE side connects to the circuit board, and is also called B5+. If you need more help drop me a message at [email protected].

@@chargerr4807 Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks for the video!

As long as all the leads are connected properly, it should charge as before. Mine worked 1st time.