Why not seal the plaster with a permanent finish, something like varnish?
@LunarburnStudio27 күн бұрын
Depending on the quality of the plaster you are using you could do that, but just know that the wax will stick to the varnish so you will need to use a release of some sort so you can clean off the mold afterward. I like leaving the plaster bare and soak in water. The water in the paster create a barrier and wax from sticking to the mold, it also keeps the mother mold cooler, chilling the wax coats faster.
@MoBoykaaАй бұрын
When can I stop mixing? What is the viscosity value for every 500 ml? What is the wetting agent and is it necessary? I watch all your videos. They are great.
@MoBoykaaАй бұрын
@LunarburnStudio
@LunarburnStudio27 күн бұрын
Im not sure I understand the first part. When I first fix my slurry I like to let it mix overnight to let the silca fully wet in. As for before each dip, I like to mix for 5 mins and then make sure the mixer is off before dipping. To test viscosity, I use #5 zahn up amzn.to/3Zk5eLN Im looking to have the slurry run smooth for 14-20 secs. wetting between coats is not necessarily but can be help reducing pin-holing is your slurry is too thick.
@LunarburnStudio27 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and keep asking questions.
@MoBoykaa24 күн бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio Thank you for helping me I am a master student I have coarse sand sio2 and I get fine sand by sifting it about 180 microns which is equivalent to 80 mesh. Are there any problems with that except that I will get rough surfaces I mean when I make slurry. Any advice
@MoBoykaa24 күн бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio Last question I really need help can I use Aerosil as it is currently available?
@CaveRealmsАй бұрын
My break happened before burn out what should I do to fix it?
@LunarburnStudio27 күн бұрын
Depends on how many dips you have on. if your on 5-7 dips of less i will fix with slurry and chopped fiberglass. It closer to the last tip and its a complicated brake, I will finish dipping the individual pieces and burnout, then reassemble with slurry and glass or refractory paste like green-patch.
@Dawna-y2cАй бұрын
I want to see the grow room 😄
@gastonoyarzun40842 ай бұрын
Bueno tu vídeo me puedes compartir información sobre la estructura con que retiras el crisol del horno.
@gastonoyarzun40842 ай бұрын
Fotos o dibujos
@LunarburnStudio27 күн бұрын
It is a unique solo pouring rig that was designed by @Chicagocrucible. www.chicagocrucible.com/custom-foundry-equipment It is dependent on having a overhead gantry/crain.
@markadams26672 ай бұрын
2024 Carnival of Fire was amazing! Thank you for putting on one hell of a good show! Drake & Sabrina thank you so much for the invite! 🔥❤️🔥
@natemclain2 ай бұрын
Your videos are very enjoyable and informative! You can certainly tell you have 3 decades of experience because you point out the details that others gloss over or fail to mention to mention at all. You have the heart of a teacher and you’re good at your craft! From one foundry guy to another well done! 👍🏼 👊🏼
@BobbyJ5292 ай бұрын
any plans to do workshops? would be cool to learn from you directly.
@LunarburnStudio2 ай бұрын
I dont have any workshops scheduled at the moment, but I do do them from time to time. Usually connected with conferences, iron pours and visiting artists gigs. I have considered offering an in person master class at my studio, maybe in the future.
@jurgitamartisiene82003 ай бұрын
Hello, when and how you removing the cups, thank you.
@LunarburnStudio2 ай бұрын
I typically cut my cups, gates and vents off with a grinder with a cutoff wheel. But I have also used a hand saw with a metal cutting blade for small delicate cuts or a carbon arc for heavy hard to reach gates.
@crazy_octopus3 ай бұрын
Hi man, thank you for sharing the technology. I'm from Ukraine. Have no adbond here, or any colloidal silicate binder. Can advice something in this case? And also no fused silicate flour, only simple, raw silica flour, is it suitable?
@LunarburnStudio2 ай бұрын
Unfortunately, it is my understanding that ceramic shell is dependent on the colloidal silica, but I will ask the chemists at my supplier if there is a work around. As for a substitute for Fused Silica, you can also use Alumina or Mullite. Alumina (Al2O3) and Mullite (3Al2O3·2SiO2) are both oxide-based engineering ceramics, commonly used in high-temperature applications.
@crazy_octopus2 ай бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio thanks for responding. I have an idea to try, what is called here "liquid glass" (Na2O(SiO2)), i guess there's should be something like this in US, instead of coloidal silica. What do you think?
@LunarburnStudio2 ай бұрын
Even though the chemical makeup seems similar, Liquid Glass and Colloidal Silica behave differently and are not interchangeable. Liquid Glass is a soluble compound, while Colloidal Silica is a suspension of particles. Liquid Glass has a fixed chemical composition, whereas Colloidal Silica’s particle size and distribution can vary depending on the manufacturing process.
@crazy_octopus2 ай бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio ok. So I'm in search) thank you
@phoenixforge59443 ай бұрын
Hi, Do you have a video on cores for lost wax?
@LunarburnStudio3 ай бұрын
Not yet but I will put it on my list. Thanks for the suggestion!
@johngreen15374 ай бұрын
IWOULD LIKE TO SEE INDIRECT OR BOTTOM FEED SPRUING
@Metalfusioncowboy4 ай бұрын
Awesome , thanks for taking the time to teach
@errolbalcos5594 ай бұрын
is there any alternative of slurry? like plaster of paris mixed with grog? i live in the southern part of the Philippines its hard to find a components to make a slurry.
@LunarburnStudio3 ай бұрын
There are a variety of investments you can use for metal casting, ceramic shell is just one type. Plaster of paris with sand or grog has been the staple for a 1000 years and has been used to create amazing castings. I know it can be frustrating when you see a new material on the internet but have no access to it. My advice is to embrace what you can get locally and focus your energies on the objects/art you are creating and focus less on the process. So if Plaster is what you have access to, go for it. Just remember with plaster, gate and vent more.
@errolbalcos5594 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for your videos i learned a lot. I have a question. Since i dont have a kiln, is it okay to heaten the shell using a blue torch before i pour the melted bronze?
@LunarburnStudio3 ай бұрын
Yes, absolutely, also the shell does not need to be crazy hot. 400F if its a solid/thick casting minimum. Alot of my castins are 3-5 mm thinck and my shell temps range between 800-1200 F
@WhiteBelleStudios5 ай бұрын
Where did you pickup that solo pour shank? I sure could use one
@LunarburnStudio3 ай бұрын
www.chicagocrucible.com/ Lloyd makes them to order so I dont think you will see them listed on his website, so you will need to email him and request one.
@gregvonheraud-parker77395 ай бұрын
I think the world must have banned styrofoam cups I cant seem to get them anywhere. Not even on Temu or Aliexspress. Can you sujest another method?
@gosgra5 ай бұрын
Have you ever seen an ANKARSRUM Kitchenmixer-System? It supports to mix the slurry by using such a piece of wood or something, fixed to the barrel. By the way- thanks for your nice videos. 👍🏼
@LunarburnStudio3 ай бұрын
I have not, but thats an interesting idea. Just a reminder, you dont want to mix too fast. the spped should be just enough to keep the slurry moving. If too fast, it creates friction that will heat up your slurry and dehydrate it. Just keep an eye on it.
@joselisboa75786 ай бұрын
Good
@DeadCat-426 ай бұрын
Someone gave me a few kilns, do these molds need to be fired or heated beforehand?
@LunarburnStudio6 ай бұрын
Yes, the ceramic shell needs to be first heated to evcuate the wax then to 900C/1600F to vitrify the shell. After this is a good idea to let cool and inspect for cracks and then patch. When you are ready to pour, preheat the shells to around 1000F.
@aminbalaghi94006 ай бұрын
Where can I find dry indicator color ?
@LunarburnStudio6 ай бұрын
I get mine from REMET.com
@farhadmr30616 ай бұрын
Excuse me, thank you for cooking a mold made with sodium silicate glue, what temperature and when is needed, thank you.
@LunarburnStudio6 ай бұрын
Not sure for sodium silicate glue, but for ceramic shell I burnout to a tempeture of 900C/1650F.
@arthurgoss48616 ай бұрын
Hi the caloidal is it caloidal silver mixed with distilled water , please clarify . Regards and thank you for great info much appreciated 👍
@LunarburnStudio6 ай бұрын
Colloidal silver is not the right material. You need to look for "Colloidal Silica". It typically come already suppened in the water base liquid. To my knowledge it is not something you can make out of common materials.
@apichitkonkean62527 ай бұрын
Where can I buy Remet Dryness indicator?
@LunarburnStudio7 ай бұрын
Remet.com
@FDB_artist7 ай бұрын
Hello!! I'm really loving all the great info you are releasing!! Thank you so much!! I tried to open the links for the Dipping Charts but they seems not to work anymore. Can you help with that? Thanks
@LunarburnStudio7 ай бұрын
Its a basic chart allowing me to note day/time of each dip/ It is also helpful to note temp and humidity of the the room.
@jaredmallard99867 ай бұрын
I have watched this a few times trying to learn as much as possible. I have a question though. Could you share your thoughts on how the recipe could be modified to make a suitable mixture for casting into a mold and having the ceramic as the final product rather than casting metal into it?
@LunarburnStudio7 ай бұрын
Interesting question. Id say reversae the process. Because the of the nature of the material you wont be ablto to just pour it in solid, it will crack as it dries. Instead try to slush the slurry in and pour out. then pour in a fine grain stucco/sand. Using a blower or airhose dry that layer. once dry repeat to desired thickness. Let me know how it works out.
@rezaemami17 ай бұрын
Is it possible to add chopped fiber glass to the slurry at the first place to prevent cracks? If yesm how?
@LunarburnStudio7 ай бұрын
I wouldn’t do that. During burnout the fiber glass will melt out creating voids that will fill with metal and interfere with your detail/surface. As for the cracking how soon does the cracking start? are you doing a slurry only coat your first dip? Are you cleaning your. Wax for dipping?
@curtokay80468 ай бұрын
where do you buy youre sand at ?
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
I get me colloidal and silcas from Remet.com
@numbskullskills8 ай бұрын
thank you for your knowledge on this subject, iv done sand casting, yrs ago, i want to try this i have a couple questions for you on your batch you talked of water how much of that would i maybe need to start with. iv looked for the products and found them but who do you get yours from. ill be making half what you do so i can just buy a 5gal bucket instead of 50gal. again thank you for passing this knowledge on.
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
I get my materials from Remet.com When you say water, you mean colloidal correct? With the AdBond II my mix is 1 part colloidal 2 parts fused silica flour.
@numbskullskills8 ай бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio ok 1/2 the water you talked about was to freshen it. sorry guess i should clean my ears, at least pick the grass thats growin. thanks wish me luck
@MacyFoster-nc2wi8 ай бұрын
When using certain tools with wax, should I keep them just to using them on wax? or is it possible to use them on other projects? I know with the wax residue it could be a problem but I was just curious!
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
I try to keep my tools separate for different tasks, but there is always cross over and thats fine. just heat them up and wipe them down before using them for something else.
@MacyFoster-nc2wi8 ай бұрын
What's your process of fixing your gating if it falls apart in the dipping process? I've been having trouble keeping mine together!
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
It depends where in the process it brakes. If between the first 1-5 dips ill fix with slurry and fiber chopped fiberglass cloth and continue dipping. Much after that Ill continue to dip the parts separately and fix after burnout. But its really on a case by case basis. But if your gating is consistently braking away from your patterns the problem is probably how your welding your wax parts together.
@MacyFoster-nc2wi8 ай бұрын
This is such a cool process! Is there a specific type of wax that you prefer?
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
You can use a vairety of waxes but I prefer Microcrystaline wax. I use Premiere Bronze from Remet.com
@Yasmana14758 ай бұрын
Hi. Would you mind making a video on Patination? will appreciate it.
@LunarburnStudio8 ай бұрын
Its on my list. Finally getting back to making new videos. Thanks for the suggestion.
@glowpon39 ай бұрын
I've been watching metal melting videos for a while, and this one shows so many good hints I hadn't heard. Excellent description on carburation and checking temperature. Thank you so much. ^,.'.,^
@borisouedraogo74799 ай бұрын
Hello ! I don't have shellac ,what substance can i use to mix with alcohol,instead shellac?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
Some of the colloidal companies also sell wetting agents. I worked in a foundry in Texas and they used a diluted mixture of "Mop-in-glo" a floor polish/wax. Not sure of its chemical breakdown.
@borisouedraogo74799 ай бұрын
Thank you for your answer
@chrissilliker86339 ай бұрын
Hi Eric. Love the channel. The one thing I would love to see in more detail is the afterburner on your burnout kiln. I want do do some casting but im worried about someone seeing black smoke when i burrn out a shell lol and calling the fire department.
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion, Ill put it on my list. Glad you are finding my channel helpful.
@deucedeuce15729 ай бұрын
Anyone ever try just straight drywall plaster? I thought it would be a bad idea, because of the cracking problems and also that I don't think it's waterproof after it hardens, so it can melt. That could be a good thing though if you're casting a complex part and want to be able to clean out the shell material from hard to get to areas. I just worry that it's just not a good, reliable medium for making casting shells. The person that made the video showing it didn't seem to have any problems at all and he was making pretty decent sized parts (over 50 cubic inches if I'm not mistaken).
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
There are a number approaches but if you are looking at a plaster as your main ingredient, you are talking a variation of standard investment. I do realize there are some DIY'ers that have tried a layered approach using plaster but that is chemically different than ceramic shell. The challenge of plaster is that it does not like to release its water content in a timely way, even in a kiln burnout and cure times can take days. But if drywall plaster is all you have, I would mix silica sand into it to help it withstand the thermal shock of burnout. It will also strengthen.
@jessbakerjess9 ай бұрын
great informative video Eric,thanks for making it! with out me digging around for other suppliers,would you say REMET are competetively priced too?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
REMET is competitive price wise but not sure if it is the cheapest if that is what you are looking for. I find their products and customer service to be super consistant though.
@coupdegenie519 ай бұрын
👍
@AnnetteWood-w8g9 ай бұрын
Have you ever put two skulls together in a gating system?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
I have done two skulls at the time I think the largest one I did was 4 skulls, but at that point, the shell gets unwieldy
@AnnetteWood-w8g9 ай бұрын
Do you have example video where the added wax at the skull entry point? When you add the Dulip of wax?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
Unfortunately, I don’t but that’s a good point that would help in the understanding of that technique.
@AnnetteWood-w8g9 ай бұрын
Did your skull cast have the recessed eyes or did you carve it out?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
There were some creative alterations to the original human skull to make it castable in one piece
@brianaharris62159 ай бұрын
Whenever your attaching to your sprue, do you ever have issues with your pattern being to large or heavy so that the sprue doesn't support it?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
If the pattern is too large and can’t be supported by one gate, it probably needs more gates to feed the metal appropriately across the pattern
@brianaharris62159 ай бұрын
Is using Styrofoam cups a preference or a best practice? Can other cups be used in the process or is durability an issue?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
As for the cups anything combustible is fine. And they can certainly be all Wax. I prefer the Styrofoam because of evacuates that much quicker. There is something said that it’s not great for the environment but there’s so much other nasty stuff out there that it’s a drop in the bucket.
@brianaharris62159 ай бұрын
After fixing the seems do you ever alter/modify the shape of your casting so that it works with the overall project? If so, what issues have you encountered?
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
I’m not sure I understand your question
@bosnwifey79839 ай бұрын
The explanation you have about why you use the square sprue in the gating is excellent. Thank you for explaining that.
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
Glad you found it helpful. The round ones certainly work, but I find the square one give me more consistency in my castings.
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
I see from your profile that you are in OK. You must be one of Jenn Peek's students. Thanks for watching and for asking questions!
@bosnwifey79839 ай бұрын
@@LunarburnStudio I am she talks about your helpful tips all the time. We are preparing for our first try at this whole process.
@bosnwifey79839 ай бұрын
As I prepare for my first attempt at this process for a ceramic shell, I am impressed by how easily you can make changes to your mold before casting the metal. I've only ever cast from sand; the clean-up process can be a lot. This takes longer, but I would instead melt wax than grind to fix a problem. Especially where if I still mess up, it is easy to remember and start again.
@LunarburnStudio9 ай бұрын
Sometimes we just have to work with what we have, but if lost-wax casting is possible it certainly gives us more flexibility and control.