Is there a technical reason why you put the switch on the opposite side of the PCB as compared to the other components?

Awsome review. Well worth the time spent watching. Will be buying myself a T48

Lol ppl take this seriously

Quick question, you are using 32k ROM's (27C56) how are you dealing with the size of the ROM? Are you Quad writing the ROM (duplicating the rom 4 times) or are you writing zeros for the empty space. I know on the regular XT-IDE Lites you have to Quad out the ROM, but this device is so simple it might not need it.

I really, very much, appreciate you're generousity in taking the TIME to share your discovery. You are a kind man.

Sooo grateful for this video!! At first I thought “there’s no way this would take 2 hours!” but those damn screws on the inside took me about an hour to fight with lol. The rest was all downhill haha. 🙌🏽

@teigemaddrell1769 Agreed! No way this cheap plastic tool’s going to be effective on a very tight tire (eg. GP 5000) and slightly larger rim combo, specially a carbon rim but same for alu. The tire in the video was obviously not a tight tire - by the way it snapped easily back on. Save your money.

I was so worried and I did it!!!! I took it apart and back again and it works awesome thank u so much!!!

The only video that show the same issue but the pitch sound from my psu is lower than that and most people can't feel it , i do cause i know is there after i get close to the power supply, man you are a legend, i have a question: do i have to change the power supply or there's no risk using the one i have with this pitch noise?

Great tutorial! I just finished replacing my rollers and the only thing i couldn't get back in was the 7th screw. But since it's in the middle screw, I'm gonna say it's not that important. Machine works beautifully. You did a wonderful job explaining and pointing out what pieces had to come out, etc. Thank you so much! I'm so happy I don't need to buy a new machine!

My friend did have a clone Arduino Uno and in probably 1 month of normal use it just died on him. It used to overheat before that

Does it let you know if a cable is GETTING faulty? Or is a '2 green lights' indicate that the cable is 100%?

Why power flags never used in this example? When are they necessary?

Thanks so much. 90 mins but $$$ saved. Those instructions were superb.

Appreciate the time you took to make this. My drive isn’t working and I need to do something about it.

I spent last week trying to change a flat - first time this season - changed 5 or 6 last year. Now for some reason I pinched 4 straight tubes, and my local mechanic showed me this. So now I own one and I needed your video to show me how to apply the leverage. THANK YOU!

I may be 5 years late, but I’ve watched both of your m5stack face videos and I gotta thank you for helping me with uiflow and convincing me to buy a face kit 😂

Love the little ratchet screw driver. Yes please the SER mini PC..... I love that

Hi

You're nuts man, lol

I "thought" I brought a great deal on AliExpress for the T56 with adapters. Turns out it was a supporter pack (adapters-only!) - duh! So... may question is, I know you said as a general rule of thumb, don't mix adapters, but that was really aimed at the older/white programmer and the T48. Are the adapters for the T48/T56 interchangeable? i.e. Now I've seen your video - am I good to buy a T48 and still use the adapters I accidentally brought ? [UPDATE] I think those that use the zif socket will work. As it happens, I need a TSOP56 adapter (not got) and that seems to be unit dependent T48 or T56 ONLY as whichever version I get will use the port at the bottom with the pins (using a cable), and since the ports are very different - it makes those adapters which use the port, unit dependent.

these wifi modules have antennas and there are areas under them (keep out area) where there should be no paths and copper pours because signal will be blocked. Best place for them would be with antennas on the pcb edge. You use too many wires in the schematic editor. It would be much clearer with net labels and buses.

Nicely presented! Thanks

This was ok to do but when finished with everything I went to turn it on, and it makes a noise and then the power button started flashing red. What did I do wrong? I followed everything just like he said and when I did not get it, I went back just to see what he said. Please help!!!

Thank you for this amazing and detailed tutorial! This saved me buying a whole new machine and even though it took some time, every step was so thorough and helpful. THANK YOU!!

Thanks!

Wow. Thank you so much. I been wanting to learn PCB design for years. You just helped me reach my goal in less then an hour. Thank You So Much!

And here I am thinking ladder logic is more simple to understand.

Are you collaborating online to design this, through Github or such? Whenever making a dev board for an MCU, the first thing I make is a tester for the GPIO pins. 2-legged 2-color LEDs are nice, as they can indicate direction, and 3-state, even PWM.

So helpful, thank you! Really appreciated the detail on putting it all back together!

0:38 I bought this one for $2

Keyed connectors are pretty much a must. Things must either only fit in one way or it shouldn't matter how they fit. A green LED with some logic behind it that lights up after a few (quicker) successful tests would be a great QoL improvement. So you don't have to pay attention through the whole cycle.

Wait, you're telling me it's pronounced KiCAD? All this time I've been pronouncing it KiCAD. 🤣

Did you clean it up in the meantime? ;) kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5DZoZl4f79qgKs

09:44 ECS = Enhanced Chip Set en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amiga_Enhanced_Chip_Set

This got me thinking, need to look at some ECU looms, will be a bit more complex in the sense that each ecu manunfacturer has its pinouts and then the amount of end points but its a fun engineering excersize

Are they lead free PCBs? The lead free option is more costly.

I think it’s a great idea. I only have 2 suggestions: 1) Give me something to keep all these boards in (maybe each one comes with a case than connects to the other cases, like the food containers that snap into each other?), or I can guarantee you that at least one board will get lost or damaged in some way. 2) Make it as dead-simple to use as possible. I don’t want to spend an hour trying to figure out how things are supposed to go, how I’m supposed to run a given test, or how to interpret the results. If I’m handed a mission-critical cable to test, I need the results displayed as quickly and clearly as possible. (If something I said is confusing or doesn’t make sense to you, please don’t hesitate to ask. I don’t mind clarifying or expanding on my thoughts above, if there’s a chance doing so could improve the end-result.)

Howdy man, "Building the Ultimate Cable Tester" I have nothing against to say but first let me ask just one question, what tests are you planning to run for the cable? Judging by your current build it seems like you're testing continuity only. Let me know if I'm wrong. (I have tested many cables and it's never been easy) so i want to know what ultimate actually is. If your idea is decent I'll share my cable harness testing design.

25 pair telco cable tester (RJ-21)? It needs to be able to detect miswires and reverse polarity pairs. It also needs to be able to test m-m, f-f, and m-f cables. I think Siemon MT-5000 was the last tester built for this, but they had a yellow rectangular test set before that. It separated into halves and had a master and slave end. The master had 25 LEDs that lit up in sequence and the slave had 25 red/green LEDs that lit up green for correct polarity and red for reverse. I preferred the older tester.

Connecteurs are often painful to change ; the problem with all these testers is that they never gives you which connector is faulty (which end).

Thanks!

This has been super helpful to this synth repair tech - thank you!!

Thank you it worked. Only thing I did differently was use Rufus.

HOLY SHIT MAN THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I’ve been struggling for days trying to install 98 burning multiple discs and trying a official one but nothing worked before I tried this

Ct100 is fantastic. The best thing banger ever made

Great demo project! Two things I'd suggest: When creating a copper pour to fill in empty areas, I'd not leave it floating just to have copper present, that could act as an antenna and bring stray noise to the pcb, so connecting it to some board net (ideally ground) is good. And for generating gerbers and drill files, it's good to check with the board shop being used to see if they have preferences or limitations on how to generate the files. PCBWay has a blog post "How to Generate Gerber and Drill Files in KiCad 7.0" that can be googled and it shows how to configure all those check boxes to be sure they can process the gerbers.

This is a great video, I remember 6 yrs ago moving from Eagle to KiCad and had to watch and rewatch and google a ton, but got to grips with it... however there is still a lot to learn as functions and flow improves and expands with KiCad. I am sharing this video

i would need this lol

I tried to keep the video short, so if you find that it moves too quickly, you can always adjust the playback speed. If you're interested in getting PCBs, using this link www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx?inviteid=446230 is a huge help to the channel.