Let's see if I can add a link... kzbin.info/www/bejne/laSVh3ihYrxjmaMsi=f7MOt9fI0FxVbaCq

No you didn't :) I did wonder about repacking the bearing with lubricant but it was already pre-greased. I read that it is possible to over grease bearings and they just get hot, thereby melting out the excess. I asked subaru and they said ' it will be fine'. So I decided not to re-grease it. Since then the bearing has done about 70k miles with no issue.

@@mikeatyouttube very interesting. i've done quite a few bearings in my day, on vehicles from the 80s to mid 2000's. i did the front driver bearing on my 96 legacy about a month ago. everything seemed fine, so i loaded her up to head to a music festival about 3 hours north of me in Trapper Creek, Alaska. the bearing exploded 20 miles south. i actually managed to get a ride and play the show (which went great, thanks for asking :-P) then get my car towed back the following day. my bearing came packed with white grease. my buddies all told me to repack, so i did, with red bearing grease. in my post mortem, it had obviously overheated: the grease was all black and smelled burned. i was watching your video because i'm about to do it again. i thought maybe the problem was that i torqued the axel nut while she was on the ground, which allowed some play in the bearing. however, the nut was still tight and the detent i made in the spline index was still there. could i have over greased it? it looked like one of the pins got cock-eyed in there, as one race had a gouge matching the pins. i think that's what caused the explosion. i thought it was because the inner races had play that allowed the pin to skew, but maybe it was because the grease failed, came out, like you're saying. lots to chew on. i've never had this happen before, and certainly don't want it to happen again. thanks for the response. if you need me, i'll be nervously looking at the parts on my bench for the next hour heh

@@CarBoi-by1lt Quite a story! Good luck with the re-do.

hmm, I don't have those files any more... however, if you download that example from the B4A site (Bluetooth Chat Example - see 2:23)...... Then add the on and off functions at 4:15 to 5:08 Then alter the btnSend_click at 5:40 to 6:20 The key to controlling these bluetooth switches is sending the *hexadecimal array as a string* - see 5:09 So long as that hex string is sent using Astream.write() function on line 108 it doesn't matter how you set up the string. Using buttons to turn the relay on and off would make more sense but since the text writing code was there that's what I used to make the smallest number of alterations to an existing example. The rest of the bluetooth setup is done in that Example file from Erel. Good luck!

It is odd, isn't it? Wow - 21,000 views - I wonder if Pylon know - and might do something to make my video obsolete? I'm not holding my breath. You may not know, but even the RJ45 connection from the battery to the Solis charger I have needs to be altered to work reliably. I think I put up a video about that. Right now I'm working on some software (web pages) that allow people to set the charge profile of the Solis charger remotely. I guess these are hardware companies and software is a bit of a mystery for them :)

@@mikeatyouttube Honestly, I'm not a fan of Pylontech. Especially since videos about servicing their batteries appeared on YT. What I saw inside was truly terrifying!!! So whether Pylontech will react in any way is of no particular importance to me. If I had to bet, I would bet on NO.

@@andrzej3511 Who are your preferred battery manufacturers? It's a bit of a wild-west at the moment and I'm sourcing batteries for another project so any views on preferred suppliers would be helpful. I'm hoping that sodium batteries become available for residential use. At least the US3000Cs I have a FePOs not tri-metal. Any views on that?Thanks.

@@mikeatyouttube First of all: I advise you to get a "divorce" from Pylontech as soon as possible! Personally, I have two proven producers, or rather distributors: EVE, Gobel, Shenzhen Qishou and Hitium (here I rely on the opinions of others)*. The second thing I strongly suggest is to consider installing the batteries yourself, purchasing cells from these suppliers and "switching" to prismatic batteries. These plastic bags at Pylontech are a kind of parody of a battery... Costs. You can build a very decent battery with a capacity of 16 kWh and a voltage of 48 volts for an average of $ 100 per kWh, and if you look carefully from the Chinese suppliers, it will even be significantly cheaper. I am not giving any addresses to them, everyone should search at their own risk. I am guided by the number of transactions of a given bidder (the more, the better) and the overall score, those below 4.9 points are eliminated, even if they promised golden mountains. I saw from your videos that you can hold wrenches, a screwdriver and a soldering iron in your hand, so in my opinion you can do it without any difficulty. So compare a properly assembled (by your own hand!) DiY 16 kWh battery and the Pylontech 2 kWh battery for twice as much (approximately)... As for which you know best what is inside Pylontech. Draw your own conclusions. * Personally, I cannot resist the impression that all prismatic cells are produced by one manufacturer on a gigantic scale, even for Chinese conditions. Only distribution is carried out under various trademarks. Some better care about quality, others sell cheaper. P.S. If you are looking for someone who will lead you by the hand, I highly recommend the Off-Grid Garage channel. The host, Andy, shows exactly step by step how to build a good battery, what to pay attention to, how to program a BMS and which one to choose. Truth be told, I learned a lot from him myself. Very cool dude!

It should do. I haven't got any 2000Cs but they are the newest phosphate technology (I believe - that's what the 'C' means). Get the 2000C manual out and compare it with the 3000C manual - available on line. If the RS232 pin-out is the same I see every reason to assume a similar cable will work.

@@mikeatyouttube Thanks. Is this the "Console" sub-heading under 3.3 Equipment Interface Instruction which details pins 3-6 and 8? If so, the entries in the US3000C and US2000C manuals are identical.

@@none194 Yes. The US2000C and US3000C manuals are the same on the Console pin out. So the cable I made would work on the US2000C batteries. A few people didn't use the correct Cisco USB to RJ45 FDTI cable/adaptor. Using the right USB to RJ45 cable is important - at least for the wiring in this video.

Some of this replay is for others reading your comment... Thanks for the comment. I looked at the pylon manual - I have the 3000C batteries so that's all the information I rely on. In the manual under "Console" it defines the wiring for the RS232 protocol. On the other side of the page it shows the pin-out for the CANbus protocol. In the RS232 side, the Tx is pin 3 and the Rx is pin 6 (pin 8 is ground). On the CANbus side, pin 4 is CAN-high and pin 5 is CAN-low. It is possible that your batteries are configured differently. For the purposes of this video, and the use of the Cisco USB to RJ45 FTDI cable I need the RS232 protocol. (only mention this for other people reading the comment). So I think on the RJ45 connector (cat5 ethernet cable) I need to wire up pin 6 and 3 and 8. Although it's only conventionally, an ethernet RJ45 patch cable is usually wired orange/white,orange, green/white, blue, blue/white, green, brown/white, brown from pin 1 to pin 8, 'may' be wired with any combination of colors so long as they match at both ends (well - usually). So maybe that's where things are going wrong. What is for sure is that the manual also says to be careful not to put signals on pins 1 and 2. So for the RS232 to work, only pin 3,6 and 8 on the pylon batteries should be connected at all - that's why I cut all the others. This connection will only work with the Cisco USB to RJ45 FTDI adaptor.

Not sure if you ever got your snap ring out, but if there was enough meat left around the edge, you could drill a very small hole and then use a pick to pry it. Not sure if there's enough meat though, just a thought.

Under normal circumstances, the answer is no. The sewer should be an 'open' system where air has to flow in through a vent pipe to let the waste flow. So no, no pressure - unless massively blocked or something.

Yes. The driver of this Prius said it made a big difference. I guess just stiffening up the body of a car can improve the handling significantly - you wonder why they don't install them as standard. We added stiffeners to the rear axle too - that's in another video in this channel - have a search for that.

Please feel free to add links to any of your products/ideas.

Just before I have a look at your wiring, did you get exactly the Cisco adaptor cable that I used? Other people tried different adaptor cables and they didn't work - so I suggested that step one is the exact cable I got. FYI - I'm not familiar directly with the US2000 batteries (I only have the 3000c - which have the RJ45 8-pin console output) so I'm guessing a bit with the US2000 RJ11 connector - nevertheless it's only RS232 protocol... just thought - there are parity and stop bit settings required in RS232 - that would be in the adaptor settings - worth checking. Also, just checking... in RS232, the TXD at one end of the cable must be wired to RXD at the other end, and RXD to TXD for the other wire, obviously. (This is different than CAN-BUS for example) Will do a wiring check for you.....

I made this video which might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJjKlHyqZdtqoNk

I put in a direct youtube link in the comment below above but if youtube blocks that then the string you need after the v= in the URL is JggcIt0v7jw Let me know how it goes - either way - and if you have suggestions to help others.

That does sound correct. If you use the screw-terminal break-out adaptor you can do some experiments to be sure. I don't believe you can do any damage - it will either work or it wont. Have you tried using the MultiSIBControl software? I have that running and I can monitor all (3) of my batteries simultaneously by connecting to the master only. (Also, what charger brand did your installer use?)

@@mikeatyouttube Thanks I'll have a look for that software. I thought it was only BatteryView that would work. It's taken 4 weeks in total to get Pylontech support to give me the software..... Just so slow dealing with them. I have a Solis hybrid inverter. Cheers

@@chrisshave7129 I have the Solis charger - (not the hybrid). The UI on the hybrid I think, is a bit nicer than the plain charger. I hear you with pylon, they are a bit reluctant to provide that BatteryView software - but you'll need it if you need to do a firmware upgrade. On one of my videos I do the firmware upgrade - but just fyi, my batteries are US3000Cs. For monitoring purposes this MultiSIBControl is very nice - graphs, export of data etc. I've found working with the pylon batteries to be "a bit of a journey" so good luck with everything.

Certainly the owner of the car says it made a noticeable difference and other commenters on this video said the same thing. I understand your scepticism - but I think regular cars flex a lot more than we think under normal driving conditions. I can only assume that the mechanical engineers 'know what they're doing'! Why not give it a go? (And let the community know what your results are :) )

The Corechip SR9900 is the wrong adaptor. You need an FTDI to USB adaptor. A FTDI adaptor will convert USB to Serial. The battery console port is Serial RS232 protocol. Try to get the same adaptor that I used - search "cisco compatible console cable USB to RJ45". The Corechip SR9900 converts to Ethernet which is wrong. The PylonTech console port is RS232. Good luck!

Good point about the volumetric differences. The US pint is 16 fluid ounces and the UK is 20 fluid ounces. The US and UK fluid ounces are *almost* the same but not quite. They use to be the same up to 1824 when the UK government unilaterally changed the definition of a gallon and made the fluid ounce 1/160th of a gallon. The US didn't get the memo and kept with the utterly bizarre one gallon = 231 cubic inches and made the fluid ounce 1/128th of that. Wikipedia has the whole story.

Hi Frank, I'm afraid it's been 13 years since I made this video and I really can't remember all the details. I hope someone else in the community can help you out. Good luck. I'm sure you'll have success in the end!

You're not wrong about the probable imminent failure of the pipe to the curb. Some commenter made me feel a bit better when he suggested that that crack was caused by me when I dug around the pipe - still, it's got to be weak. Downsides include that fact that there is no curb clean out - at least I haven't dug a big hole and installed one yet, and secondly it would be a pretty big job to dig up the whole line. You'll note that this video is quite old and honestly, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed until I 'getaroundto' doing the very thing you suggest. Thanks for the reminder! :( My anxiety levels have gone up again! :) (Location is California, BTW)

@@mikeatyouttube I’m not sure what I would do to run a sewer lateral in California. I would imagine that they have some sort of additional regulations involving earthquakes…. perhaps an expansion joint in the lateral? You are correct it is not a small job….and in my area, we have to have a clean out and a vent at the sidewalk as the last available access before the lateral continues to join the main.

@@arthouston7361 Cleanouts near the curb/sidewalk are mandatory now as per code. But no boundary trap or vent at the street - interesting the OZ requires a trap. My house is circa 1958 - well before ABS was invented. I suspect there'll be lots of trouble with old cast iron pipes in the next 'big one' :( Some people put reverse flow inhibitors in sewer lines now to prevent backflow which can happen in floods and earthquakes. Although not in the video, I replaced the screw top with a rubber cap that would pop off and flood the garden before backing up in to the house. Damned good idea recommended by one commenter a few years ago.

Good question - I didn't know there was more than one. What I did, was buy a 'Cisco Compatible Console Cable USB to RJ45' On Amazon, I think a search for "Cisco Compatible Console Cable, 6ft, FTDI USB to RJ45 / Windows 7, 8 / Vista/MAC/Linux / RS232 Switch Router (Type-A)" will get the same one that worked for me.

That is certainly true! There are other videos that show people doing that.

Try this link - and let me know if it works. I had to ask PylonTech for the software. They seem to be reluctant to provide the software - probably because you can screw up if you try updating the firmware - so don't do that. drive.google.com/file/d/1G2NlLwo5v88c59AX9bG3zy1tt2mbAxwY/view?usp=sharing

Also, search for MultiSIBControl - they have some nice free software

yes it did work thanks a millon @@mikeatyouttube

have temp on cells 13 14 7 15 anyone had similar issue ?

@@pixu777 PylonTech are quite responsive - maybe talk to them and send screenshots from the BatteryView software. Also, you could always try only charging to say 80 or 90%, especially if the weather is hot.

You need the FTDI dongle to get the RS232 protocol that the Pylon batteries need. And it's important (according the the Pylon user manual) that only the RX TX and GND wires be connected (the others 'shall be null' apparently). Of course you don't need the female to female rj45 connector if you modify the FTDI dongle wiring itself. It's just that if you cut those wires and add an rj45 plug then obviously you wont be using the dongle for anything else (and you need the tool to make up the plug). Up to the user really. Other youtubers have done exactly that.

I've not made a cable for a us2000b because I don't have one. However I did make this video that might help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJjKlHyqZdtqoNk If you succeed - could you give some feedback to help others.

Which batteries do you have? Because on the 3000C's pin 1 is simply not connected to anything. For the RS232 protocol you only need 3 wires, Rx,Tx and ground. The RS232 protocol is used on the Console port, despite the fact that it's a RJ45 port.

Hi need your hellp pls

Don't think so. I think this is called a tube axle.

​@@mikeatyouttube can you suggest any banjo axle videos?

@@hankpb1 Not really. Must be out there somewhere.

Yes, indeed. I have put a rubber cap on the riser instead as others suggested. Good idea. Better to have all the mess outside in a back-up emergency than inside or under the house.

Ligle rapitat?

Yes. The Prius was never known for its stunning handling but this Strut Tower Bar made a significant difference (aka improvement) to the feel of the car - at least according to the owner. The sway-bar (anti-roll bar) was also a good idea: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKizf3mLmbWEbKs

Fantastic! I hope your project went well (or will go well). I hoped to prove that most of plumbing is not rocket science :) If you read the comments below, you'll see I defended my use of the T section - because my pipe was not deep at all. The alternative is a Y (or two Ys if you need to go in both directions) - and you need to use that (a Y) if your pipe is quite deep - simply because the rooter guy needs to be able to guide the rooting cable and the deeper it is, the harder that task is.