@@johnj8746 still underway. If I had to guess, the green foam is a high density PU. My 64kg foam is green as well. Dropping the boxes into a hugh density foam like that is a really good call. Was very impressed with the strength of that board!

With 80 or 120 grit sand paper, it's going to take roughly 20 seconds, lets say 30 seconds to sand that foam down to level. To go and get my knife, walk back to the board, cut the foam, throw the offcut in the bin, put the knife away, grab the sander, start sanding... it's going to take basically the exact same amount of seconds to get the job done. There is no unnecessary dust in my workshop because I work with a very expensive sander/vacuum setup that keeps my workshop pristine!

My pleasure!

@@jonathanhij6625 can you clarify that statement. I’m genuinely curious. Correct me if I’m mistaken but it seems that you stated that you added MEPK to uncured epoxy? Please forgive me if I read that incorrect. 🤙🏽

Nah, you're screwed with epoxy. Gotta peel the glass off if you forgot to add hardener to the lamination. If it was a hot/gloss coat, you'd need to clean it all off. Happened to me twice! Nightmare

I imagine with Epoxy it's pretty rare to forget entirely to add hardener but very common causes for this type of situation would be: Not adding enough hardener adding too much not mixing enough In these cases your resin may ''never'' cure. If you find yourself with this issue, like Whitburn said, you're shagged! Epoxy resin and it's hardener need to be smashed together, they wont naturally bind to one another. Unlike poly and MEKP, where the MEKP tracks down the resin cells like sperm to an egg and attaches itself to the resin!

@@mjchargerSD either or, depends on the size of the job and how much time you've got!

My exact thought.

NICE SAVE!! I would like to do a test on some uncataylized poly.. just lightly dip my chip brush in MEPK and brush semi-aggressively over the raw resin to see if that would kick it off. I mean, it’s worth the experiment in small scale just to know how far you can take it in the event of a full blown disaster.

@@thirdearthsurf 100% worth trying!!

I have thought about that. My concern is that I never ''quote'' jobs I only ''estimate'' them so if the job comes to more than they paid in advance I'm in the same position (albeit, I guess more like I've taken a deposit) or I owe them money if its cheap than my original estimation.

The ''no rush'' then constant phone calls is very irritating 😂 ''Dont call me, I'll call you'' is my slogan!

Shit bag customers 😂 It's good to know I'm not the only one!

Hey hey, Most of my paint jobs end up being wet sanded to either 800 or 1200. It mostly depends on the darkness of the colour. The darker the colour, the finer grit you need to sand to. Something like white can be sanded and polished at 600 just fine, you would never spot the difference between 600 and 1200 with a colour like white

@@smallkinedings Cheers mate, I was worried that I would sand off the acrylic

The deposit is something I've thought about. I've always been worried that would lead to me chasing down customers for money twice though 😂 It is a hard job, and it'll never make us rich~ Can't be that bad though because we keep doing it!

Yes that is a pencil sticking out of my hat! Never know when you might need one!

A year is crazy!! Usually I get to a stage where I send a text that states ''if not collected by this Friday, your board will be placed into storage which will come with an additional $50 per week fee''. You would be surprised how quickly people come and pick up their boards after reading that message!

My pleasure! Glad you tracked some down, good stuff huh?!

Many thanks!

Pleasure!

Thanks very much for this info!! I'll dig deeper into that, very interesting!

The beauty of NZ consumer law is that when you bring an item to a business for repair or service you enter a non written but, legally binding agreement with that business. There is no expectation to sign contracts or anything of the sorts, the agreement is essentially ''bring stuff, stuff fixed, pay for stuff, collect. stuff''. By law, if the agreement is broken the business can recoup its losses by selling the item in for service or repair BUT, only for the amount owed to them by the customer. If I had a brand new, $1500 board in for a repair that totalled at $100. I am only allowed to sell that item for the $100 I am owed after the item has been presumed abandoned.

@@smallkinedingsI don’t think that’s correct. You can sell the board for its value but you can only keep the price of the service provided plus the costs of sale. The rest has to be returned to the customer.

@onshore1ft that could be the case though thats not what ive been told, but if i can't get in touch with the customer and they won't make contact then there's not much point in that anyway. If I've got a $1300 firewire that's owed me $100 for a month, I'm gonna get my money real fast selling it for $100. Why would i sell it for $1300 (its actual value)? I can't keep that extra money legally, I'm not owed it and it'll take a lot longer to sell and for me to get my money.

Chur!

I did buy a couple of straps from Temu. They are pretty decent but a different type or rubber which tends to slip, so the mask needs regular tightening while wearing it. For $6ish buck a strap though, its worth the inconvenience

Notice my sander is hooked up to a vacuum. I am using a $1500 sander, and $800 shop vac. I spent this money specifically so I don't need to wear a mask when I sand, and don't need to clean my workshop every minute of the day. Go to the youtube search bar, and search ''sanding a surfboard''. Watch a couple of shorts and notice the dust clouds they are working in. Now watch this short again, or any of my videos and notice the complete lack of dust flying through the air. Notice how clean my shop is. Thanks for your concern though!

Appreciate it very much!! Chur!

Haha, good bloody question! Weight is the short answer, to save weight. Flex is the long answer

@ I thought so doesn’t seem like a good enough reason to me

@SamMaskery ne neither, I don't think 90% of surfers could reeeeally justify it for either of those reasons outside of just joining the trend

This is such a broad question I don't really know how to answer it sorry. Depending on the job, foam, resin type, the answer would be different almost all of those circumstances. What specifically is the problem you are you dealing with?

@@smallkinedings polly after repairs using cloth and lam resin when finish sanding lots of small pin holes and usually filling them again and sanding sometimes doesn't even fill it in. was thinking i might just try a dab of superglue in them might be easier way.

Chur mate!

Someone else said the same thing! You guys have the eagle eyes! So it looks really obvious during the repair process but once it's all repaired, wet sanded and polished, those white patches are barely noticeable. It's always a source of panic when starting a firewire repair, ''how am i going to hide that?!'' but by the time the repair is finished, it's never an issue.

That would likely work, I've often wondered about rice. I know some guys who use those silica packets that come with new shoes and stuff like that to absorb moisture. Some folks use vacuums and pumps which seem to speed the process up. I've thought about a lot of ways to dry boards quicker but I generally have more better things to do, other boards to work on than so don't really worry about one wet board. If it's wet, it's wet, when it's dry, i'll fix it.

Haha, the greatest benefit of membership of this channel is that I won't drop in on you! Everyone else is doomed!

Thanks, I will!

You can add additives to some epoxies (typically unnecessary in really high end epoxy) if you're doing a "hot coat" but its not necessary, you can do every step with the same epoxy resin.

🤙🏼

What Geronimooooooooooooo said! That was the perfect answer!

Thank YOU! 🤙 🤙

Stoked!!

Lucky! I cant remember if I went over the bertalmann or not in the filming of this but if not, we'll definitely have a look at it on a members video

So I use a non water based acrylic (MOLOTOW paints) and their clear coats too (either Matte or gloss). I have a video reviewing a repair from Rogue Wave Surf. I go into a bit of a tangent in that video on paints. Might be worth a look!

Like learning to ollie with ankle weights on! Yup, people certainly still surf these older logs with absolute skill, style and grace.

Eagle eyes! So it looks much worse in the process than it ends up. In the beginning it looks like it would be really easy to revert the entire board back to white with just a 120 sand but, in reality that would be the impossible mission. The boards don't look anywhere near that white after all the repairs are done, wet sanded and polished... Sadly.

Shot bro! I will definitely use that, I'll film it the next board I do and review it! It sounds like a very useful tip.

Logistics!

Cheers man!! Few steps on this one for sure! Usually you don't need to fix the stringer though because with creases, 98.67% of boards don't even have a stringer.

@@SamMaskery saw the kid at the skatepark yesterday and he was stoked with it which always feels good! So the wet sanding was done til 800 then polished so while the clear coat certainlynshones more than the paint, it's all pretty shiny. Being on the wax side is always a plus though

@ oh yeh course! 🤦🏼‍♂️ glad the kid liked it man!!

Definitely a collectors item that black stuff! Rubbish for doing dishes with though!

The spray foams used for things like window and door jams are generally a very low density and full of air because of the being sprayed out of a can thing. This is a higher density (56kg) poly foam, with less air in the mix as it's just a poured liquid