You can definitely mitigate a lot of problems up front by doing preventative maintenance, but realistically if the thought of a repair bill here and there being a couple thousand dollars doesn’t sit right with you, this probably isn’t the car for you. It’s not a guarantee these things will happen, but if them happening will ruin your experience I’d definitely look elsewhere. That being said though, you’re talking about paying ~$35,000 for a $120,000 car with an M6 vs. paying $35,000 - $40,000 for a ~$50,000 Mustang/Camaro. The M6 (or any M car) will tax you more than the cars you mentioned will in the service department but they give you an unbelievable driving experience to make up for it :)

The whole point of getting this car and making videos on it was to show an actual ownership experience so that people could see how unreliable/reliable these cars really are. My inquiries in forums (which have been few and far between) are primarily to gather more information on how to take care of these cars, both for myself and for people who watch my videos. I’m not really scared about anything, I have 2 other cars that run perfectly fine if something major ever happened to the M6. Furthermore, one of my best clients is a European Car service center near me, so I have the ability to at least drastically reduce the price of any major service via work exchange. But, quite honestly, even if everything you describe goes wrong, I stand my ground that the M6 is a great value. Let’s say I blow my turbos, bend a rod, and snap an axle all at the same time. Turbos (at normal prices) are normally a $6,000 - $8,000 ordeal, ~$13,000 engine + install (can be much cheaper), and $3,000 for axles. Throw another $3,000 for a diff and that’s $26,000 of issues. I OVERPAID for my M6 because of the options and color, but factoring what I paid ($45,000) with the cost of all those failures, that puts me at $71,000. For most M6 buyers, their “all in” amount if worst case scenario occurred is in the $60,000 range, potentially even less now that the market is softening. If you decide to do the preventive maintenance instead of waiting for everything to break, you can shave another $10,000 or so off that. For a car with an MSRP of over $100,000 that cosmetically holds up very well (outside of the carbon roofs, to be fair) and is as dailyable and useable in everyday life as the M6 is, I think that’s an awesome value, genuinely. We’re in a time where so many cool cars are near their original MSRP’s even with high mileage, the M6 is one of the last hidden gems left in my opinion and these videos are my attempt to show that to the world while still being honest about what breaks. Also, let’s be real here: people don’t follow SavageGeese for accurate information. He doesn’t test the cars long enough himself to be making the claims about reliability that he does. They follow because they align with his Porsche Elitism/his affinity for extremely compromised purpose built sports cars. Nothing wrong with Porsche Elitism, at the end of the day I quite frequently make the claim that BMW is the best car manufacturer of all time. But that’s what I’ve noticed the few times I’ve watched his content and observed his audience.

If you can handle ~$2,000 - $4,000 in service if/when something goes wrong (other than massive failures like the entire engine), I say go for it. Expect to pay about $6,000 up front after purchase to replace rod bearings, fix oil leaks, and possibly service the brakes

@@EthanYorkeso your saying about 8k I will cost to replace that with labor? Damm. I wanted a 60k mile one had good service records tho

You're also a 🤡

But at least u know what to expect upto 80k with more hp than stock... Lot of these out there with half miles

I got a quote from a local shop near me called Ghost Customs that does “starry night” headliner conversions frequently. They told me $250 if the material didn’t need to be repaired, $350 if the material needed to be repaired

I’ve heard the N63 motor isn’t that reliable. The s63 seems to be a bit more robust

I couldn't agree more

@nickmartinsen8549 like most engines, the n63 likes to be well maintained. Keep in mind the n63tu and newer have far fewer issues than the n63's from 2012 and before.

@@nickmartinsen8549as long as you get a n63tu (2015 & up) you’ll be good

I love when people call cap but put absolutely zero effort in to prove their point. I currently own 3 BMWs and have had 2 others before this, 3 over 100,000 miles, and am notorious for not taking care of my things. Despite this, none of them have/had any electrical issues at all. You’re literally just blabbing talking points you most likely heard from the 9th owner of an unserviced 7 series that doesn’t understand how their “$10,000 car” can be so problematic. My E36 is just as simple and straightforward to work on as my old Mazda/Mazdaspeed Protégé’s, my wagon is just as easy to work on as my old Focus ST. BMWs, like literally any other car except a Subaru product, run fine and for quite some time without issue if taken care of properly. Their reputation of unreliability has way more to do with irresponsible owners than actual poor design

@@EthanYorke You can love or not love whatever. There is a reason German cars are expensive UNLESS you live in Europe.

Again, you’ve done 0 to prove they’re expensive. Expensive new? Well, duh. They’re luxury sports cars. Expensive used? That’s not really true as pretty much anything other than M cars depreciate rapidly as they approach 100,000 miles. Expensive to maintain? A used CVT for a 10th Gen Civic costs as much as a used DCT for my M6, replacing an engine in a WRX STI would cost you more than replacing the engine in my M6. So where is your point exactly? Or are you really just that bitter about having an inferior vehicle that isn’t saving you much money?

If you don’t tune the car first, yes. If the car is tuned, you won’t get a light for it. Light was on in this video for some fuel evap issue I’ve since fixed

catless downpipes means you gonna lose the post cat lambda sensor so in the tune they just stop that code from causing the engine light

If you can handle roughly an additional $500 a month on top of your monthly payment for the car throughout the year for service/repair, go for it. I also drive mine a lot though so that number will be different for everyone, I’ve done about 10,000 miles so far and have paid ~$7,000 for 3 oil changes, rear rotors and pads, a transmission leak, and some fuel evap issue. With just the oil changes and brakes, I’d be at about $3,500. Ultimately it’s just a matter of what you’re comfortable with, an M8 is going to run you $2,000+ a month in payment and, in my opinion, is uglier in every way to the M8 so the M6 is a good deal to me, even with its high cost of ownership.

@@EthanYorke brooo thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail, this is going to be really helpful!!

How was your experience with the E39? I LOVE those cars but frequently get pushed towards a 540i instead of an M5 because of “reliability concerns”

@@EthanYorke the e39 was amazing the usual issues tho. Proper maintenance same as the e46 m3 it will last a very long time. Water pump thermostat fan clutch and if you have the money in advance so the rod bearings also. They can take a beating and reliable. The only lemon I had was my e85 z4m it was a terrible smg and the engine gave out at like 117k . But also my own fault I was 18-19 abusing it without proper care. My own fault.

Car market is taking a huge hit rn, I’ve been seeing a few M6 Verts below $30k and even saw a Coupe with CCB’s for sale for $30k even. I hope you’re able to find one! Get a good deal, do rod bearings, rods, axles, and a diff brace and let that thing eat!

@@EthanYorke thanks man, i’am going to subscribe to you and hopefully have your blessing on helping keep the car maintained properly.