@@مجيدعمادمجيد-ص8ه v6 3.3. It’s in the title. Thanks for watching

Yes. That’s what I would try. But before doing so check the other wires also, blue as well to make sure they aren’t live when it’s off. If not, tap it into the other and see how it goes.

@@surefireservicesinc it should keep it in memory mode and start regularly without a full boot. But depends on your head unit.

@@FloydSquire check your wiring. It’s possible it’s either shaking loose, not grounded well, or you have your acc and power wires mixed up. (Red, yellow and/or blue)

@@mr.incredible3318 back up camera is a different video cord so it won’t matter. You can still try this.

Make sure the acc wire is connected. Acc wire is usually yellow or possibly blue and that is what works with the key.

@richirich1 Thank you. I watched the rest of the video and you explained it. Much appreciated.

So by cutting this wire and disabling power as soon as key is off, does it result in the android head unit having to do a complete long boot-up each time they key is turned on? Or does the sleep function still work for short intervals in between ignition cycles? Thanks

Check the red and yellow wire. See if they are crossed. They should line up with the red from the unit to the red with the car. Pins might be in order. ACC wire controls the on and off with the key. See what your units manual says.

It work ok over a year until yesterday. Don't make no sense

@richirich1 pull the battery cable off for a few it fix it....

If it works fine don’t worry about it. These Chinese made radios don’t always line up given they are universal for so many different vehicles. I wouldn’t stress it unless something is malfunctioning

Well I’m a little autistic in that way. Haha I’ve opened everything up just because I want to know what it does . Haha but it’s fine. Everything works I’m still testing (only one day installed ) so let’s see. I will go to a VW garage and ask them. 😅😅

@@ClemsonTiger75 you’re welcome. Yes if it’s pouring out depending on which way you turn then it’s more than likely coming from that place in the center and rolling left or right. Very common issue. Hopefully changing that o-ring resolves the issue. Just make sure there’s little to no air left in the system. Good luck!

@@richirich1 Update: You are the man. Your solution has worked so far (okay - I'm the type of guy that has to be completely convinced, so forgive me). It's been 3 weeks, and I have been so nervous about this. I was afraid I would damage my roof and never be able to make it work again. But today, IT WORKED. I'll up date later after I replace all of the interior and watch it go up and down. Many thanks. You have a friend for life. I should also shout out to my son, since he showed me your video, and helped me get the cylinder out of the car so I could fix it. He had to return home so I was on my own repairing it, but so far so good.

Very happy it helped! Shout out to your son!!

@@carlingas666 connect the yellow wire to the ACC and it should fix it.

@@stevelowry9127 glad it helped.

@@rzrian2386 you have to connect the rca plug and the small wire next it to a power source behind the radio or you’ll have to tap the wire to the reverse light wire in the back.

@@rzrian2386 glad it helped! Like subscribe if you don’t mind

@@MarkTruskolaski-bw4vf did you cut the yellow to the Canbus or the one in the main harness? Check the pins to each wire and make sure they line up properly to each specific wire on the factory side. I had to reroute(jump) a wire to the factory side because the Chinese head unit one was off a pin.

@ I cut it from the canbas and then it had no power at all so I splice it back together and back to always on lol yeah Ill check there wiring

@ I just read I should cut the yellow from the canbas and connect it to the red acc. Does that sound right ?

@@MarkTruskolaski-bw4vf could work, give it a try. Should turn on and off with the key.

Check the fuse on the unit. Also the memory wire is hot. I have unit that’s always behind or ahead of time but I don’t worry about it.

DFW area, Texas

Yes. I believe so. It kept hitting the side so I had to prop it up a big to get the leverage I needed.

These worked well. But there won’t be a next time for me lol! I was doing this for someone. Not doing again

You’re welcome.

@@nork_ger8234 so with these it can vary based on model but you usually have to connect via Bluetooth and WiFi or use a third app or the tethering app on the Android radio menu.

Yes you do. It sucks because you can see them. But not enough leverage to actually get them out. The other is directly in front of it plug and 10mm facing the firewall. It’s a bit easier but takes some maneuvering to get to the 10mm and pull out

@@piteee1159 both

@@richirich1 that's interesting cuz I only found it on passenger site. At the driver site I don't have anything. Is it normal in Volvo?

@@piteee1159 depends on the type of seat belt. Driver side might be a 3 stage instead of 2 like the passenger

@@ivanuremovic1199 do you have you headlights on set to auto? If so, turn them off to see what happens. It could be staying on because of that. Possibly in the advance menu settings there could be a delayed shut down option you need to adjust. Is it draining the battery or just annoying it’s remaining on?

@@richirich1 As far as I see battery acts the same as before, so there's no drain. My lights are on auto, but I tried changing to "ON" position and it's the same thing. I tried accesing developer options menu but I don't know the password for it, and there's nothing about shutdown in car factory settings. I even asked seller about password and they said that they don't know it.

@@ivanuremovic1199 try pw: 126

@@richirich1 Actually I just stumbled upon forum where I found that password is current yyyy.mm.dd format. It actually worked and I unlocked developer options like this.

Thanks brother! Glad it helped

@@erwan7 thanks man. You should be able to swap them. Computer ECM no but airbag yes. However, Volvo can make it difficult and some models may have it assign and you have to have advanced computer to change it. But in my experience so long as they match up and part numbers are the same with no deploys it should be find.

@richirich1 thanks for the info. I think it applies to all s60 p3. If it worked for you it'll work for me

Happy it helped!

If it has the electronic brake and looks similar then it should work

Happy it help. Like, subscribe

@@jonasv369 yours is more advance if you have ac controls on your Android radio. Also, confirm which side you snipped. You snipped the aftermarket wire side, not the factory side?

@@richirich1 i did cut aftermarket side. But now i joind wires i cut, unplugged cambus. Ac, steering wheel buttons, working and no power draw.

@@TrevorM1992 no. The canbus controls the radio working with the lights, reverse, steering wheel switch etc.

@@richirich1 That makes no sense because when you buy an aftermarket stereo like a JVC or Alpine, they dont need a canbus.

@@TrevorM1992 this isn’t JVC, ALPINE 😂 This is China my guy 😂 🤷🏾‍♂️

It's possible. You'll just need to suss out the pin out/wiring diagram for the head unit. I mean for basic operation, all you need is B+, ACC, GND and L/R speaker wires. The (well... my) HU harness has all of these. I've got a 10" Chinese head unit that looks like it came off the same shelf in China as the one in this video (just slightly larger screen), and it never came with a CANBUS device like we see in the video, and hasn't needed it. However I am also having issues where it sometimes doesn't turn on/off with the ignition. ACC wire is currently connected through the CIG lighter circuit which seems to have improved the problem but it still occurs occasionally, usually after a day or two of functioning almost perfectly. Cutting the main yellow B+ wire cuts the power to the unit when it wont turn off by the key. This leads me to believe their is a software bug which is preventing an internal switch from activating/deactivating the internal power (so a software controlled switch isn't getting the memo that you've turned the key off and the software keeps providing power to the unit via the B+ wire). It has to be that. OP, I'm almost willing to bet you were still battling this problem after making this video? What I am finding is you think you have a "win" by changing something and it works, then a few days later, the issue returns with nothing being changed. It's like a time based bug in the software which reappears after you have cut power to the unit and then reconnected it again (resetting the time and date again). My unit also refuses to remember the date and time when I manually input them, but it remembers all my radio stations and other custom settings. Just about ready to explore options to flash the unit with a different OS to be honest.

This is about a parasitic draw of power when the care is completely turned off. What you are experiencing if the car is off but head unit is on and working is simply you have a bad battery with low voltage. If you leave the lights on white car off or listening to the radio and it draws the battery down then that’s just a bad battery. A good battery can hold charge at around 10.8-11.5 volts continuously without draining down If just sitting with the radio on. If the battery drains overnight with the car off then it could be you have something drawing the battery down and in that case this is the video for you

​@@richirich1 thanks for the help, my head unit has a fan for cooling, i tested all wires and after disconnecting the fan wire the parasitic draw disappeared, still not sure why the fan was drawing so much power but its solved.

That’s good to hear!

nah

I bet you wouldn't have wished for your mom to be doing it to your friend though.

@@QuizGameTVV yes saw it was constantly hot so I snipped it

Happy it helped! You’re welcome. Give a like and subscribe if you see fit.

Check your ground wire. Made sure your red and yellow wires line up with one another

No

Man, super happy it helped. Option to buy me a coffee is in the description if you still want to.