04-08 Grand Prix - Change o2 Sensor

[@hectorvelasco4086]

Thank you on it 👍

[@NexusAuto]

No problem at all

[@kylel2569]

This is perfect haha I have an 04 Pontiac and all your videos I just discovered have saved me some money for sure thank you!

[@NexusAuto]

Hey, that's awesome news to me. Glad you found the videos and they help save some money. Thanks for watching!

[@YanYalan]

Same here! Thank you for the Grand Prix videos!!

[@missychevious3137]

Good video. I started pulling a code for an O2 sensor about 2 months back. It's going to have to wait until spring before I attempt that. In the mean time I have a little Autel MaxiTrip TP-100 that stays connected to the OBDII conector. It does things that my Autel AutoLink AL329 doesn't do and vice versa as far as monitoring the system goes. It grabs codes as well. After I check the codes it will reset them. Handy little thing. Bought it at Princess Auto about 8 years ago, on sale, for I believe it was about $63. It's in it's 3rd car and works awesome. Actually that makes it 9 years ago that I got it. Anyway, I checked the code on the MaxiTrip and then compared it to the AL329. Both read the same code so I reset it with the TP-100. I think I've had to clear the code twice now. Today being the second time. I'm pretty sure with the little driving I do it should be OK till spring. Then it'll be a 3/8 drive ratchet, O2 sensor socket and a 3 foot extension with a universal. I hate getting to close to my work. LMAO Gotta say you make it look easy. Sure hope so. I've never changed one before. I've always been worried about stripping the threads. I've seen it happen a few times and hate all the work that has to be done to get a new O2 sensor in. The only problem is that I forget if it's the upstream or downstream sensor. I'm pretty sure it will trip a code before spring so Nexus time I'll write it down. LOL The memory in old age is a funny thing. You can't remember what you want to remember and you can't forget the things you want to forget. DON'T EVER GET OLD!!!! LMAO Anyway, excellent video. I'll be back in the spring most likely for a refresher. In the mean time, take care, be safe and keep up the awesome videos.

[@NexusAuto]

Thanks, always appreciate it! That Maxi Trip strikes again! It's amazing what info you can get from these devices! $63 was a great price for it. Hopefully the change goes smoothly and no stuck sensor or stripped threads. That's no fun at all! I saying I see online a lot....a mechanic is always 1 broken bolt away from a 1hr job becoming a 2 day job lol. Hahaha don't worry, I don't plan on rushing on getting old. But it's creeping up on me lol. Take care and see you Nexus Time, Sir Miss Chevious lmao

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto My dad always said you tighten a nut or bolt until 1/2 a turn before it breaks. Pretty much the only bolts I ever broke were GM exhaust manifold to pipe studs. Oh, and the odd wheel stud trying to remove the nuts). I did find that if you heat the nut until it's red (don't heat the stud any more than is necessary) and use a socket, breaker bar and extension and move it back and forth quickly while spraying it with penetrating oil they usually don't break the stud. However, I always heated the manifold after I got the nut off and removed and replaced the stud. For some reason GM was really bad for this. That was a good price for the MaxiTrip. It was about a hundred dollars off. I wish I could get another one but they stopped making them. This thing has been phenomenal. It did have a problem clearing this code but I figured out what I was doing wrong. You have to shut the key off until the unit shuts down and then start the car again. As it does it's checks, the code disappears. I'm sometimes not the brightest bulb on the tree. LOL You don't have to rush at getting old. Seems like one day you're 45 and the next you're 65. Time flies when you're having fun. LOL OK, until Nexus time, you take care and stay safe.

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 Oh, I know it. The biggest culprit to this was my good ol Cavalier. Those lug nuts would seize on all the time. It was notorious for it. But I agree with the methods to break away those stubborn nuts. Especially in our weather conditions. Haha don't worry, that clear code thing isn't a you problem. I've worked on some vehicles where you can't clear any codes with the car off, or with a restart. The car has to be at key on, no start. Then I can clear codes (looking at you, newer Fords and some Hondas LOL). All these cars have their own weird quirks. Time does fly. It's still crazy to me that I have been on KZbin for over 10 years now! You can actually see me age in my videos LOL. That's too funny. But I am in no rush to get there. Enjoying life as it comes.

[@Dopeboy2013]

Is the o2 sensor downstream and upstream i need to know so i can get the right one...👍👍👍👍

[@NexusAuto]

@@Dopeboy2013 this was the upstream sensor.

[@THA6reat1]

@0:44 Great video by tha way ... 👍👍👍

[@NexusAuto]

Thanks, much appreciated.

[@KathyWidener-w3e]

Which sensor is it you sat 02 sensor. Bank 1 or 2 sensor 1 or?

[@NexusAuto]

@user-hx9bs9ns2r this is the upstream sensor, which is bank 1 sensor 1, off memory

[@familygoogleaccount428]

What code was it I keep getting p0054

[@NexusAuto]

I don't remember which code it was, but P0054 is an o2 code. Could be the sensor or wiring.

[@Dopeboy2013]

Nexus what size socket for the o2 sensor I only need the sensor socket....👍👍👍👍

[@NexusAuto]

It has been a while, but if I remember correctly, it is a 7/8 socket.

[@mrbreezeet1]

Is this the same for a 2001 Grand Prix SE, with a 3.1 L motor, or is mine different?

[@NexusAuto]

It's fairly close, but still different to the 2005 3.8L.

[@mrbreezeet1]

@@NexusAuto Thank you I haven't really checked it out yet I'm just trying to get everything figured out before I go into it Thanks again

[@NexusAuto]

@@mrbreezeet1 no problem at all. I'm all for doing research beforehand. Honestly, you can't go wrong with that!

[@GhostLeadTV]

Hey Bro i need your help , i have a grand prix 2005 , and when i start it it starts shkaking and after it turns off , please i need your help

[@NexusAuto]

That's hard to say without being there to test it. There's quite a few causes for that. So when you shut the car off, does it still run and stutter for a little bit? Is there any check engine light? Even if there isn't, if it were me, the first thing I would do is get a scanner and scan for issues or codes. That can sometimes help narrow this down significantly

[@Brownguy504]

Thanks for sharing. My grand prx shifts well just boggs like it's getting to much air. . I wanted to change the o2 . What you think

[@NexusAuto]

No problem at all. The O2 is worth looking into, but I would actually look at cleaning your throttle body, if you haven't yet. That's a very common problem with these cars (and a lot of newer cars too).

[@drtb69]

How many sensors did it have,? 4? upstream , and downstream front amd rear?

[@NexusAuto]

There is only 2 sensors. Unlike newer cars, which have an o2 sensor for each bank, the 3800 engines only have one that works for both banks...1 upstream, 1 downstream

[@mikebias7186]

More access if you can raise the car and get underneath I think

[@curtishickerson2646]

Nah. I just did it the exact way he said to, and it was far easier from the top. I had tried it previously from the bottom, but it just doesn’t work. The sensor is pointing straight up, so you can’t even access it.

[@mikebias7186]

@@curtishickerson2646 ok I just remember trying to change number 6 spark plug that sensor was a pain. It was also on a lift I could stand under

[@NexusAuto]

@@mikebias7186 I find it much easier from the top as well, as Curtis said. With a lift, it may be a different story. But when on your back on jack stands, it is tough to do. I had very little issue from the top. Great question! And thanks for the response Curtis

[@valleyalley1438]

Hey sir where is bank 1 sensor 2 and if i change this will it help my fuel or is my cat bad or is it a leak

[@NexusAuto]

Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the one after the catalytic Converter. If it is bad, it will help fuel economy and idle. However, it may not be the issue, as it could be a broken wire/connector, or a bad car. Even a leak can be an issue...all depends.

[@valleyalley1438]

Thank you very much i have an 08 grand prix getting 10 to 13 mpg i dont want to put any more money into it

[@NexusAuto]

@@valleyalley1438 I hear that. Any money saved is always a win. Hopefully everything works out for you and get that mpg up.

[@k.i.i.3699]

The OBD two reader is saying that the HTR is not ready. I’m thinking changing this sensor will fix it? And I’ve drove 300 miles so it should be ready by now if there wasn’t an issue. Will I need to replace both of the sensors to fix the HTR issue or just the upper one?

[@NexusAuto]

It may fix the issue, but what was the error code that you got?

[@k.i.i.3699]

@@NexusAuto I’m not getting an error code. The check engine light isn’t on either it’s just that when I hook up the reader to my car HTR indicator is not ready yet and hasn’t been for the past 300 miles. By the way the EVAC isn’t ready either. And I can’t get my emissions passed because those two aren’t ready. All I need is one to become ready and then I’d pass emissions. Any suggestions other than changing the sensor?

[@NexusAuto]

@@k.i.i.3699 Sorry, have been away for the past week. Did the issue get resolved? Or do you still need assistance? How full (or empty) is your gas tank?

[@mzbrookz9072]

My 06 grand prix is throwing a fuel trim bank 1 code...would that have anything to do with the upstream 02 sensor?

[@NexusAuto]

There are a few causes to a fuel trim bank 1 code, but the 02 sensor can be one of the causes for sure.

[@mzbrookz9072]

@@NexusAuto Just out of curiosity...what could be another reason for the code?

[@NexusAuto]

@@mzbrookz9072 It does depend on which FTBank1 code you are getting..P0170, P0171, etc. Best thing to do is search google 'Grand Prix P01xx(put the code you're getting)' and there are sites that will tell you. But you'll be surprised on how many things can affect your fuel trim. Aside from the o2, it could be an exhaust or vacuum leak, poor fuel pressure, old or not enough engine oil, exhaust issue, misfire, ignition issue, etc. There is a fair bit of stuff that can pull up a fuel trim code. Also, it does help if you have more than one code, oddly enough. As that can help narrow things down a bit (for example, if you have a P0171 code and a P0201 code, then you have a bad injector on cylinder 1). But that all depends if the car even put that code up.

[@nathandunn6974]

I have a p0030 on my 06 grand prix 5.3 gxp!! That's upstream?

[@NexusAuto]

That is bank 1 sensor 1, which is upstream

[@robelaraya6396]

Is it the same process for a gxp

[@NexusAuto]

I haven't checked it on a GXP, but to my knowledge, it is the same. But I am not 100% sure. Same part numbers, so I believe, generally, it should be the same

[@robelaraya6396]

Nexus Auto ok thank you, also It feels like my car is misfiring but I haven’t had any codes for that, I’ve just had the o2 sensor and code p3400, the car also is vibrating like crazy sometimes, any idea?

[@NexusAuto]

@@robelaraya6396 the p3400 is likely directly your fault. p3400 has to due with a fault in the cylinder deactivation system for the 5.3L. check this link for more details www.yourmechanic.com/article/p3400-obd-ii-trouble-code-cylinder-deactivation-system-bank-1-by-jamahl-walker Engine vibration is a direct symptom. Considering you have that code, that would be the first thing I would look at.

[@garybennett8775]

Will that sensor make it run rich ?

[@NexusAuto]

Yes it can. There are other things that can cause a rich idle, but bad O2 can definitely be a cause

[@ThomasHuber-q1e]

Almost every time I've had to change an O2 sensor on a vehicle, I just taped the cord to the extension so the cords out of the way

[@NexusAuto]

For sure, nothing wrong with doing what works

[@missychevious3137]

Now that sounds like a good idea. I've never thought of that before.

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 You should definitely think of that by now LMAO

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 but honestly, a nice little workaround here.

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto OK I will. LMAO

[@dashawnacarter334]

My boyfriend has a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2, and this car has just about 240,000 miles on it. Just 2 days ago, we noticed that an engine light came on, so we went to Auto Zone to use their scanner tool for a diagnosis. The printout shows diagnostic trouble code PO420 (Catalyst System Low Efficiency - Bank 1). The printout shows a MOST LIKELY SOLUTION of Replace Catalytic Converter(s) with new OE Catalytic Converter(s). As the gentlman in AutoZone handed him the printout, he suggested we check the 02 sensors before we look into replacing the CAT. Wanting to do the labor himself, what would you suggest we do? Should we just replace the 02 sensors, or replace the CAT, or replace the CAT and the 02 sensors?

[@NexusAuto]

Ideally, it would be best to have the o2 sensors tested first. The can be checked for proper voltage and functionality. However, you need a multimeter and an oscilloscope to do that, and I know some people dont have those, especially the scope. If you are just looking to replace a part to see if the issue can be fixed, definitely go for the o2 sensors first. they are the most common failure, and easier to do. Keep in mind, changing the car or sensors may not fix the issue (for example, the wire for the o2 sensor may be damaged or corroded). But the o2 sensor is where to start

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto I have to agree with you. In my years I've only seen 1 CAT go bad. I know it happens it's just not common. I'd have to say, in my experience, 95% of the time it's one or both of the O2 sensors or their wires. One day I'll tell you about that debacle with the bad CAT. Concerns the same shop I'm having the trouble with over the aftermarket resonator they put on my car. I couldn't stop laughing at the "mechanic" when he explained the situation to my friend. He was so full of BS that his eyes were turning brown.

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 Same here. Cats going bad on vehicles these days are a rare sight. They are more likely to get stolen vs going bad LOL. Definitely looking forward to hearing about the bad car story, Sir Miss Chevious!

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto I was going back through some of your responses tonight for the halibut and came across this one. I just had to respond. Last night I was watching a video on youtube about a guy stealing CATs from a junk yard. They caught him hiding in an SUV and got a fork lift under the vehicle and raised it way up in the air. He was still there when the police arrived. He tried to BS the cops but it was a little difficult to do when all his tools were found in his back pack....including the reciprocating saw (saws all). I couldn't quit laughing. Let me know if you'd like the link to it. I'm pretty sure I bookmarked it Take care. Until Nexus time.... Cya

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 ahahahaha oh, please send that to me. I would love to see it! Lol

[@CharlieArtistry]

Hey love, I'm back! 🤦🏻‍♀️ (06 grand prix gt supercharged) Okay, I had a shop Change my downstream 02 and now I'm throwing a p0054 code. It says heater resistance bank 1 sensor 2. Is the 02 bad? I did some research but honestly don't know what to do anymore. Some said the upstream could need to be changed now. Any suggestions?

[@NexusAuto]

Hello, and welcome back! Wish it was under better circumstances :/ This is a tricky one, as there can be a few causes. Without being there to test it, it is hard to say. But i'll give my opinion on it. If p0054 showed up only after changing the downstream O2, then I would start there. P0054 deals directly with this O2 sensor. It can be something like the new O2 was defective, or they did not connect it properly (I have seen when mechanics accidentally forgot to plug something in...human error). Or the wires for the O2 sensor could have damaged during the install...it happens. Also, there is a fuse for the O2 sensor. It is the underhood fuse box, fuse number 14 if I remember. Check that too. Now, if all that checks out, It can either be a bad Catalytic Converter, or as you mentioned, the upstream O2 could be bad. It can be other things too, like a vacuum leak or fuel pressure issue. But it would be weird for those to randomly show up. Shouldn't be ruled out, just very very rare. So we are looking at the Cat or Upstream O2. Without being there to test, I would lean on the Cat. There is a possibility that once the new downstream O2 sensor was installed, it detected an issue with the Cat that the old one could not detect. It could be the upstream O2, but that would normally throw the P0053 with it. So possible, but not likely. But before all that, check that fuse and the new O2. If it were me, that is where I would start.

[@CharlieArtistry]

@@NexusAuto 😊 Thank you. I did check the fuses. They're good. I haven't seen the underneath of the car yet to check the wires or anything. I'm really hoping it's not that cat but with my luck it probably is 🤦🏻‍♀️

[@NexusAuto]

@@CharlieArtistry hopefully it's not the cat. Fingers crossed for you. Hopefully it turns out to be something simple.

[@CharlieArtistry]

@@NexusAuto Thanks hun. As soon as I can get the car in the air I'll let you know what I find. 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@NexusAuto]

@@CharlieArtistry Sounds good to me! Keep my posted.

[@castriums4227]

My car is making the most annoying rattling noise underneath that seems to only sound when I rev gas or my car is idling for awhile...any ideas? No one can tell me what it could be. The mechanics here wanna charge an arm and a leg just to check out the car and unfortunately dont have it to give to them. I was told by a nice older gentleman it could be my o2 sensors since my car EATS gas. But it could be a more serious issue like my Catalyic converter going bad and the part alone is hundreds of dollars no ones given me a price under 1200 to fix this if that is the problem.

[@NexusAuto]

Unfortunately, this could be a multitude of things. Everything from an loose Catalytic Converter heat shield, to a loose exhaust manifold cover, to a loose mechanical part, to a loose honeycomb inside the Catalytic converter. . It can be an o2 sensor, but an o2 sensor doesn't normally create a rattle noise. Honestly, for me, in a situation like this, I would pop the hood and try to locate the noise. If that doesn't work, I would jack up the car and prop or safely on jack stands, run the car, (it'll get hot under there) and try and locate the issue under the car. My first *guess* is a loose Catalytic converter heat shield...very common on these cars. But unless I see it, I have no way to know that for sure. Sorry I couldn't help further.

[@castriums4227]

@@NexusAuto this helped tons! We had a family member who actually owned a grand prix and he was like " the heat shield is loose" lol! He also said we might have a whole going to the converter since the code pops up saying that something is low on valve one or whatever. The guy who checked it wouldn't give me the code itself so I could search around. It was get it fixed with him or nothing. Headed elsewhere to get it checked today. Thanks for the advice!

[@NexusAuto]

@@castriums4227 no problem at all on the advice. Hopefully it all works out and it is nothing major. And I hate when mechanics do that. Funny thing is, I always send people pdf reports of my scans. It actually works out better for the client and ultimately leads to more business in the future. Sucks that he won't give it. Hopefully you find somewhere that does. Good luck! 👍🏾

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto Scan tools today are pretty inexpensive (saw a good Autel one yesterday for $30) and very easy to use. Some places will either lend you the scan tool or do the scan for you. Tell the guy who won't give you the code to go rub salt in his a** and have it checked elsewhere or buy or borrow a scan tool and get the codes yourself. My last scan tool (an Autel AL301) came with a book that lists all the codes. The code pages are about 80 pages or I'd scan the pages in and send them to you. Believe me, I don't loan that book to anyone. I keep it locked away and if someone needs a scan or a code I'll do the scan and/or tell them what the code is. That guy sounds like he doesn't get a lot of business and needs the work. I'd check him out thoroughly before ever going back. He may just be one of those.....people. I hate having to say that about a mechanic but sometimes it has to be said. I met a few of those....specialty people in my 30+ years in the trade. They can't be trusted. What they lack in ethics they make up for in bull sh!t.

[@jonmo2694]

I'm thinking about cleaning my O2 sensors first.What do you think? Also did you not feel the need to use sensor safe antiseize on them?

[@NexusAuto]

If you feel comfortable with it, and don't mind the potential of doing double the work (if the cleaning didn't work), the you can definitely try. Cleaning it would be similar to cleaning a MAF sensor. They do get a ton of carbon build up, so not sure if that'll do the job. But nothing wrong with trying. The o2 sensor came antiseize on the threads....you can see it in the video...the black stuff inside the cap that is screwed on to the threads of the new o2. I didn't feel the need to add more antiseize, but if you want to, nothing wrong with that either. Even with sensor safe antiseize, just be sure to not get any on the sensor area, and you'll be good

[@kingavery8918]

Question do you know what size the bolt it that holds the cam gear in place. I just made a video so you can see what I'm talking about

[@NexusAuto]

I checked the video out. From what I can pull up, it seems to be a 1 1/8" socket. (which is roughly slightly smaller than 29mm, like 28.5mm). Hope this info is correct.

[@kingavery8918]

@@NexusAuto oh I had found out it was a 30mm. Thank's

[@NexusAuto]

@@kingavery8918 Damn, that's big. Different to even the info I could get. It's not mentioned in the service manual, which sucks. Glad that you got it figured out.

[@kingavery8918]

@@NexusAuto right I sure was getting annoyed trying to figure what size it was too.

[@kingavery8918]

@@NexusAuto now I'm having another problem the car won't turn over when I try to start it and it's not making no clicking noise either. I'm at a lost.

[@haniffdaniel4929]

Hi, I just changed a 02 sensor on 06 pontiac a couple days ago and the check engine light is still on. How long will it pull the p0133 code?

[@NexusAuto]

Assuming there is no other issues (like a bad wiring harness), it normally goes away fairly quickly. It may take a few miles of driving for it to go away, but it shouldn't take too long

[@captpike6651]

Or try removing the negative cable and resetting the computer

[@missychevious3137]

@@captpike6651 That's a good idea but it doesn't always work.

[@thewave561]

Sorry my question is not related to this video. I’ve replaced the cable for the abs sensor, but the MPH light is still on. Do I need to replace the wheel hub or is there a simpler solution? Thanks, appreciate your help!

[@NexusAuto]

Hello. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Did you mean the MPH light, or the ABS light?

[@thewave561]

Nexus Auto no worries! Now I feel dumb. I did further research and found out that the mph is supposed to be displayed. It also switches to kilometers 🤦🏽‍♂️ as always thanks for your assistance and response!

[@NexusAuto]

@@thewave561 No problem at all. Glad to hear it wasn't an issue. dont worry, these things happen! Better a simple mistake vs a costly issue! Thanks for the support as well! Really do appreciate it!

[@ethanhammack5311]

I bought the socket but it seems too big for my sensor on my 06 Grand Prix

[@NexusAuto]

There is different sized sockets out there. For sure got the right one? What size?

[@B-S1999]

Gotta question are both upstream and downstream sensors the same?

[@NexusAuto]

They are different. The O2 sensor themselves look similar, but have different ranges internally, and have different plugs as well

[@daniel-ku4em]

Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1. Any idea??? I just had a new flexpipe AND catalytic converter installed. First time my engine light has ever came on. Pretty pissed for a 400 dollar repair

[@NexusAuto]

Hmmm. You got a P0420 code huh? That's a tricky one, since it is generally associated to many things. But considering it just came up in conjunction with your new flexpipe and Cat install, it may be related to that. The first two possibilities in my head, before we get into any parts, is either 1. If your old cat was in a bad state, then the change in air flow quality and quantity can be throwing off the ecu, and it may be pulling a code until it 'relearns' your new exhaust flow from the new Cat, or 2. Was the Cat installed an aftermarket Cat, and one made for the car Or was it a generic one? If both of these are not the issue, then I would be checking to make sure the flexpipe and car are bolted nice and tight, and check the O2 sensors to make sure there is no broken/frayed wires.

[@daniel-ku4em]

@@NexusAuto i would like to hope for the first one, car drives like its brand new now so from when i had it to now its defiantly a diffrent drive. Ive cleared code twice but it keeps coming back. And for the "type" of flex and car, i have no idea i wasnt told about them or able to take a peek after install. Tomorrow at work i will unhook the o2 and plug back in and see if it can reset anything.

[@NexusAuto]

Just from what you're describing, it may be just a matter of an ECU relearn. Sometimes, disconnected the negative terminal on the battery for a bit (I say half an hour to be safe) be expedite that. Clear the code, disconnect the neg terminal, then see if the code comes back if you reconnect it. Hope that helps too.

[@46singledad46]

I have a 2004 Pontiac gran prix super charger .got it new . Currently has 231.000 miles. The steering issues turn to the left the rac.is tight at times. I was told its the rack and pinion .here in new England 15 yrs in the elements .my mechanic told me it's not worth fixing .he said taking a chance if the bolts on the sub frame are rotted.you wont be able to bolt it back up.then you'll have to junk the car. Should I attempt to fix it. Tuff call.i know it's still available dealership.

[@NexusAuto]

Absolutely tough call, and of course, without seeing it personally, I could not say for sure. What I can tell you is that it all depends on how far you want to go. The sub frame is aluminum and will not rust...you just have to worry about where the bolts mount up. If the bolts snap, they can possibly be drilled or extracted out, depending on how bad it is. I mean, if frame is rotted enough that it may fall apart from just removing a bolt, you may already be on your way to getting rid of the car, sadly. But while there is a lot of rust, it is very rare for it to be bad enough that the bolts break or seize, especially with the application of rust penetrate or a torch to heat up. My car is parked up and no longer winter driven (it is now my summer car) but it has seen 13 Canadian winters with road salt and elements similar to New England and I was able to drop the subframe no problem, Every car and situation is different for sure, but it is possible. Did the mechanic look at is and see how the frame and bolts are holding up?

[@46singledad46]

@@NexusAuto no he didn't

[@NexusAuto]

@@46singledad46 ok cool no problem. I would say it is worth lifting the car up and taking a look at the condition of everything before jumping to the conclusion that it'll be rusted out. Always best to assess.

[@46singledad46]

@@NexusAuto thsnks

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto Not much of a mechanic if he didn't check first. Not all cars are created equal so you can't base an opinion on other cars. You have to check before you give an opinion and the owner should be there to have a look himself, not just take that particular mechanics word for it. He may try to hide his stupidity by confirming his "diagnosis" so he doesn't look like a blithering idiot. Best case scenario is to take it to another mechanic and have him lift the car and check. The first mechanic may be right but it's insane to make a diagnosis like that without first checking.

[@franciscog8783]

Hi I have a Pontiac g6 2008. This is regarding the fuel needle..today the needle was at full then it started dropping slowly, on the computer it said "Check fuel cap" so I did, was tight, no gas leaks from what I can see. Then later on I restarted the car again, held at full then it started dropping again and stopped at 1/2 and stayed, "check engine cap" came on for a split second then disappeared. (Tank is full). Any ideas what could be the problem?

[@NexusAuto]

Hi. There is a few causes to this, and no particular order to which is more likely to be the cause. You can be looking at the gas cap (cap may be tight, but the seal may be worn and leaking), fuel level sensor, fuel pump, the car computer/bcm(this one is possible, but unlikely). The easiest and most cost effective thing to do is buy a gas cap. It may not be the issue, but it would suck to start pulling apart the car and fuel tank, only to find out it was the gas cap all along. It is also relatively inexpensive compared to the other alternatives. So I would start by replacing the cap, just in case. If you replace it, or are confident that it is not the issue and want to move on, I would recommend checking and replacing the fuel level sensor, and if that fails, the fuel pump next. There is a variety of issues that can happen, but these 3 are the most common. Hope this helps

[@franciscog8783]

Nexus Auto Thank you so much for the speedy reply. I'll look into all of that, much appreciation!

[@NexusAuto]

No problem at all Thanks again for watching, and good luck

[@gloccboyla2178]

Is this one for the heat? Idk which o2 sensor helps control the heat in my supercharged 05 Grand Prix

[@NexusAuto]

When you say heat, are you talking about interior heat, or engine heat?

[@dustin3700]

O2 sensor has nothing to do with heat or the super charger.

[@jsthebestperiod131]

Is this the upstream or downstream sensor? Thanks

[@NexusAuto]

This video covers the upstream sensor. Downstream has to be done from underneath. It is just after the catalytic converter.

[@mcdavidhome100]

How did you know that particular o2 sensor need replacing? What was your car doing?

[@NexusAuto]

I got a check engine light. The car was actually running with no issues, but bad o2 would affect the fuel economy and eventually the the operation of the car. When I hooked up my ODBII meter, I got the code. The engine code will tell you which sensor it is (it will look like this, sensor 'x', bank 'x', the x being sensor 1 or 2, bank 1 or 2). I looked up which sensor it was, and it led me to the sensor that I replaced in this video. That is my actual chronology of my investigation. Hope that helps.

[@mcdavidhome100]

@@NexusAuto ok thanks. I'm having issues with mine as well. I pulled the code on it and at the local autozone and it's a p0420. Catalyst System Low efficiency bank 1. This video helps a bunch. Thanks

[@NexusAuto]

@@mcdavidhome100 no problem at all. Glad the video helped out.

[@mcdavidhome100]

How long did it take for your check engine light to go off after replacing sensor?

[@juliobahamundi7062]

How did i replace the oxygen sensor if when we start the engine the fans dont work?

[@NexusAuto]

I dont understand the question. How did you replace the Oxygen sensor? And what does that have to do with the fans? Please clarify, and i'll help how I can

[@amberjackson5379]

My car is reading bank 1 sensor 1 is running lean. What exactly does that mean?

[@NexusAuto]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. 'Running Lean' means that there is not enough fuel getting into the engine, so the Oxygen sensor at Bank 1, Sensor 1 is seeing that the exhaust fumes are not right. There is a few things that can cause this, including simple things like needing a tune up, to more complex things like a bad fuel pump.

[@edlopinski2396]

Great video and very explanatory.....TY

[@NexusAuto]

Ed Lopinski thanks for watching!

[@QMoney221]

I have a 04 Grand Prix GT... The temperature gets high after a few minutes of driving... It doesn't overheat but the temp is way higher than it should be... I changed the thermostat, checked the radiator flushed the system and still the same problem. What else should I do?

[@NexusAuto]

It could be a few things, and it is hard to say what without testing it. But I can give a few possible suggestions. 1. It could be the water pump starting to fail(spin slower)2. You may need a tune up. If there is an electrical system issue or emission issue, the car can work harder, causing it to heat up more than it should3. Air in the heating system. These series III 3800 are specific with the flushing of the coolant. Some of the system is pressurized. If done the traditional way(drain out fluid, purge with water, refill, to sum up), air often gets trapped in the system and the car runs hotter. Interestingly, you will also find it does not heat up well in the winter(if you live in colder winter climate area). There could be a host of other things, but these stand out as the likely possibilities for me based on the work already done.

[@moozery]

Nice video, it really does look a lot worse than it is. Did you notice a difference afterward, like with fuel trims or anything? (if you monitor that sort of thing) My fuel trims are super rich so I'm looking to change my O2's this week, hopefully it helps.

[@NexusAuto]

Thanks a lot! Appreciate the comment. I don't monitor fuel trims, actually. But I can tell you that there was a noticeable fuel economy increase(no exact numbers, but the fuel went longer per KM/mile) and the idle smoothed out. I have no doubt that it will help stop some of the fuel dumping that you are getting. If you are running really rich, then there could be other issues, but this should help, regardless. Thanks again for watching my vids too!.

[@missychevious3137]

@@NexusAuto Just a quick question. When you fill up the tank on your Grand Prix, do you notice that the gauge sits on the full mark for a while and then drops pretty quick to the 3/4 mark for a while and then drops normally for the rest of the tank?? I've noticed the fuel economy has dropped and hoping the O2 sensor is the culprit but I never noticed the gauge doing this before. It may have been and I just didn't notice it. I'm just not sure. What's your take on this. Is it just a normal thing with the Grand Prix?? I've had other cars do this and it was just because the top 1/4 of the tank was smaller than the bottom 3/4 of the tank. I've never really looked at the tank on my Grand Prix to see if this is the case with this one or not and with all the rain I don't think I want to crawl under to find out. We had a nice white Christmas and it started raining the next day and hasn't really let up since. The last 2 days it's been more of a mist with a tiny bit of rain mixed it. Just enough rain to really aggravate the HE double tooth picks out of the security cameras. LOL Until Nexus time....

[@NexusAuto]

@@missychevious3137 I haven't had this issue personally, but I know a few people who have. Also, my previous 97 had this issue too. It is a fairly common issue with them. I think it may have something to do with the float in gas tank, but I never really looked into it. But it is a 'Grand Prix' thing, or more specifically, a 3800 thing LOL. I know of Impalas and stuff having similar issues. Hope the weather is clearing up a bit for you now. It has been such dreary, rainy weather. But at least there isn't any rain today. But the weather promised me sun, and that hasn't happened yet LOL. Hopefully the weather fill get better soon. But I can't complain on the temperature either.

[@mrbreezeet1]

@@NexusAuto Thanks Nexus question did you have a check engine light?

[@NexusAuto]

@@mrbreezeet1 I did at the time

[@ramerefauntleroy4881]

Is this sensor upstream or downstream?

[@NexusAuto]

This is the upstream sensor

[@mcdavidhome100]

@@NexusAuto Is the upstream sensor before the Cat or after?

[@NexusAuto]

@@mcdavidhome100 The upstream is before the cat.

[@reeseaustin87]

I changed my upstream and my check engine went off but then came back on but after a few days I got it checked and it read that the downstream needed to be replaced but it's been about a week and now it will go off and come back on then go back off...so I'm asking is this normal while the car relearns and adjust to the new o2 sensor? I wouldn't wanna spend $70 on a downstream sensor if I don't need to...help please!

[@NexusAuto]

Sorry for taking some time to get back to you. It is very possible for the downstream to read incorrectly and there is a relearn period. you may also get a check engine light when this happens. You can disconnect your battery and leave it for about 30 mins, then hook it back up. This normally resets any codes that will be present and resets the learn process. It is also possible that the downstream was bad too, but was not reading as bad due to the upstream being off too. Now that your upstream is reading correctly, the ECU now sees the downstream is actually bad too. Try resetting the battery and driving it for about 30 miles after you reconnect and see if it disappears or reappears. If it does, double check the wiring for any breaks or tears. And if that is all good, you may be looking at a new sensor

[@miomine3527]

What code came out when you knew you had to change the 02 sensor

[@NexusAuto]

This video was from a long time ago, but if I remember correctly, it was P0142.

[@frankdelucey2137]

@@NexusAuto Just what I needed know. Thank You Just gained another subscriber

[@NexusAuto]

@@frankdelucey2137 Awesome. Thanks for the sub, and for watching. Appreciate it.

[@mrincredible5492]

Saw a vid where they guy put seafoam down the 02 hole n let it clean the cat up for the p0420 code

[@NexusAuto]

I have heard of this as well, but I have never done it myself, so cannot speak to the success. On paper, it sounds like a great idea, and if the other video creator had success, it is worth looking into. My only advice, not knowing if the other video creator did this, is that I would remove both o2 sensors before doing it. I would not want to potentially fowl them. You would remove the upper for sure to put the seafoam in, but I would take out the lower and plug the hole. Maybe one day I will try it myself and report the findings, but until then, I cannot 100% confirm if that is truly a good idea.

[@smoreno1236]

thanks for the video, really helps

[@NexusAuto]

Steve -O no problem! hope it helped. thanks for watching

[@conradvoyles2977]

Great video, you know, minus the tripod and all. lol. About to try this very thing. Great call on the split socket tool. Subbed. Thx, Conrad.

[@longgamelarry964]

Size of the socket??

[@GuerillaMaab]

Size of socket?????

[@NexusAuto]

if I remember correctly, it is the standard 7/8 size.

[@samegang67]

It would really help if u can record actually doing it instead of demonstrating

[@NexusAuto]

Hmmm....I dont know...I think I covered everything except loosening and tightening the o2 sensor, which is still explained. As it is made clear, I had no proper tripod (at the time) and could not film that part because 2 hands were required. It sucks, I know, but it was what i had to work with in 2016. If I had one at the time, I would have filmed it. And to be honest, if someone watches the video and their main problem is how to operate a ratchet, then the should not be working on their car.

[@mimi9239560]

How to suppose to learn like this video.