06 FORD 500 ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT VIDEO

[@TheShelltrack]

I've seen this done without dropping the subframe. You just gotta turn the wheel to the right to move the inner tie rod end.

[@PaulHaileyLimited1of1]

Good job and well made video, cut straight to it and made it simple, thank you

[@PaulStringini]

Okay, 6 months ago I bought a alternator from rockauto, and it appears to be garbage. And so I'm looking for the video I looked at when I swapped out the alternator. And I'll tell you what, dropping the subframe to me as an insane complication. It wasn't easy, but as I recall I somehow finagle that out without doing any of that. Maybe that makes it easier, it was quite a finagling, but this is not what I'm looking to do tonight, thanks,

[@danielalvarezzayas8065]

I didn’t have to remove anything I just lifted the car took of the plastic cover and moved it as far back as possible and then took of the alternator. It took me about 2 mins to just play it’s way out

[@jenilee8703]

Hey, there a first time for everything.

[@jasonhurbough9105]

Found this video when a random guy in an oreillys parking lot asked if I could help him change the alternator on his car because he couldn't find it. Immediately upon locating it I told him sorry. It's a bit much for an impromptu job when I don't have my tools on hand and just the loaner ones from the O'Reilly's tool cart.

[@chipdiamond7576]

Helpful video, just got done doing it myself today, the engineer behind this abomination should be tarred, feathered and publicly flogged. I did mine on the ground with a jack and jack stands. Mine came out without removing the tie rod or doing the subframe drop, that wasn't the hard part for me. The worst thing was installation, getting the threads started while holding the weight of the alternator in that tight space. I put one of the studs separated from the nut on the top and sort of hung it on that one so it wasn't as hard to hold it in position getting the bottom ones threaded. The other PITA was getting that 10mm electrical connection off, I ended up doing this after the alternator was unbolted and rotated it around so I could see what I was doing. Also had to buy a serpentine tool because none of my ratchets would fit in that space.

[@sheraleeann405]

As a female doing the job alone as we speak i can't get past the belt part bc you dont show that part bc you said i should know this.

[@spitfireknls]

Note: I hope that car got an alignment after lowering the subframe. That changes caster with the least movement. Also it can be done without lowering subframe; I've never had to lower the subframe doing those alternator's. Unbolt tie rod end Unbolt brake line bracket Remove retainers for shield Pull shield back then remove 3 15mm nuts from alternator. Slide alternator back and Iike a puzzle block flip it to where it comes out over the loose tie rod. No need to loosen subframe. Good video though

[@fasteddie8782]

I can't FUCKIN believe I bought a Ford...and now I GOT to do this to replace a FUCKIN alternator..THAT WAS WHY I HAD CHEVYS FOR PAST 30 YEARS..NOW I REMEMBER..EVERYTHING WAS A FUCKIN HASSLE TO CHANGE..I JUST CHANGED BRAKE LINE 2 MONTHS AGO..I'VE ONLY HAD CAR FOR 4 MONTHS.THANK YOU FOR VIDEO...NICE SHOP..OUTSIDE IS MY SHOP...WTF

[@georgehawkins1609]

Thanks for the video, I am replacing my 2005 ford 500 tomorrow. Your video is awesome and the subframe drop of 3/4 to 1 inch is a great time saver.

[@omarb2021]

Is it in the place same on the 2005 ??

[@redsreelz7521]

You can do it without lowering sub frame

[@stevenbarrios5470]

Awesome vidio it helped on my 2005 mercury montego it was a great technique and time saver . Listen to this video this guy knows what he's talking about. Thank you

[@greatestskills7447]

You dont have to partly lower the frame. I just did mine. (On the ground with the spare tire jack) Remove the tie-rod end then turn the wheel fully right. Remove the plastic cover from the car its tricky but it does come out even harder to get it back in so pay attention how it came out. then slide the alt off the studs dont have to remove them. and pull the alt out. Other than that follow Ron's sequence wires MUST come off before Plastic cover comes off. There Is enough Clarence with the tie-rod end removed and then turn wheel full right Very important.

[@shawkygabriel1614]

this is an addition you can use to ease on your self the pain of taking the old part out. Yes you don't have to but it gives you some more room where you fit your hand in specially that you don't see the most of the screws you dealing with.

[@spitfireknls]

@@shawkygabriel1614 yes then u need to check ur alignment

[@zachbojorquez5286]

@@shawkygabriel1614 what a joke more room the dam part falls right out

[@marydaviesstark]

All you need to do is remove the bottom 2 studs and turn the steering all the way to the right to get clearance to move the alternator out from between the tie rod boot and inner fender...

[@marydaviesstark]

Also just tilt alternator facedown (pulley).

[@SandCarServices]

Ok

[@redsreelz7521]

I've changed 2 this way. No sub frame or tie rod remove

[@monkeyman341]

are the electrical wires difficult to disconnect?

[@bosince8825]

I changed my alternator today it literally took me 5 hours. DIY is hard. And I use the proper tools.

[@russellboughton5392]

Did you have the car on the ground? makes all the difference in the world. You notice that when it is higher, a person does not have to be a contortionist.

[@mathewedwards9069]

Bo Smith, first time I did my 500 i had a similar experience. I've now replaced it 4 times and can get it done in about an hour total time... Ive had problems with the charging system that I haven't been able to resolve so the damn thing had collected dust for over a year now

[@briarhash5147]

@@mathewedwards9069 When replacing it 4 times what brand of the alternator did you repair it with

[@willyirvin4640]

Thank you sooooooooooo much for doing this video. Very helpful even when you couldn't see your hands but you were detailed enough that it made it possible to find everything

[@tomfowler9577]

Hey Ron. A huge thank you for this video!! It really saved me lots of time and frustration. Just wanted you to know it is appreciated!

[@kennethwyant9813]

I can confirm there is no need to do anything more than disconnect the tie rod end, and turn the wheel to move the inner tie rod out of the way. The trick is to remove the cover, and alternator separately. If you try to remove or install both as an assembly, there won't be enough room.

[@jasoncurtis4738]

You dont have to move anything out of the way or disconnect anything to get the alternator out of this car. I just pull it right through the gap your arm is in. Once you get it off turn it to where wheel is facing down then twist it as you come out. Its easy and not a pain.

[@adrianlimon7974]

The alternator pulley? Thanks in advance!

[@KDMEDIC]

Agree

[@monkeyman341]

do you need a special tool for the tensioner?

[@cliterianipples3585]

Hello, Someone replaced alternator for me but they didn't put the shield back. He says it not needed. Is that true? After replacing old alternator...car starts but no turn over. Would that be an alternator issue?

[@SandCarServices]

The shield is there to protect the alternator from excessive heat from the exhaust. Yes it should be there. But can be run without it, just might experience pre mature failure down the road. I'm not understanding your last question, car starts but no turn over? If the car starts it both starts and turns over! But the answer I would give is that an alternator usually wont stop a car from starting unless it's bad and the battery is dead. The alternator job is simply to put electricity back into the battery.

[@omarb2021]

Is this the same on a 2005 Ford Five Hundred ??

[@SandCarServices]

I believe so. But dont quote me

[@-HAYABUSA-]

You don't need to drop the frame. After taking the tie-rod off just turn the wheel in the opposite direction all the way and that will pull the tie-rod out of the way. Comes right out

[@SandCarServices]

Once again!!!!! Not if the alternator is an aftermarket with larger housing!!! But ok

[@-HAYABUSA-]

@@SandCarServices Aftermarket could change things. Just saying what saved some time with that style. But ok

[@jblazeangel6969]

What's a splash guard you got an electrical unit at the bottom of vehicle just to ensure water doesn't get into it

[@johnc8109]

If you are replacing the alternator make sure you buy the new unit. I own a 05 Mercury Montego 3.0 Premiere fwd which is the same as a Ford 500. I bought the rebuilt and had to replace it 2 times before I went back to the parts store and bought the new unit and got my money back for the rebuilt one. On the plus side it only took about 30 minutes to replace compared to 1.5 hours to replace it the first time.

[@josephdisandro9483]

I'm dizzy watching this

[@ronlangridge2322]

Pain to get at the electrical "quick disconnect" plug. Ended up removing all three studs. There is enough cable slack to allow rotation of the unit and get good access to the connector. Also, even with the wheel straight, frame not lowered, I still had no difficulty removing the alternator. Perhaps it was due to me having just the one side of the vehicle raised. The suspension may have been lowered due to the weight being on the drivers side of the vehicle.

[@SandCarServices]

+ron langridge yeah the electrical connector can be a pain if they get stuck and remember some of the alternator cases are smaller and some of them are larger. The particular unit I did already had an after-market alternator in it and the case was too large to squeeze through the hole without the subframe being lowered

[@redsreelz7521]

You dont have to lower sub frame or remove outer tie rod all you have to do is wiggle it out. It's a tight fit but can be done

[@SandCarServices]

Not if its an aftermarket part with a oversized case as was with this one.

[@candlestyx8517]

Not all alternators are the same. different brands have different shapes/

[@jb6574]

Just did this job on a 05 ford 500..no need to undo the tie rods..just turn the wheel all the way to the right and you can wiggle the alternator out..also taking those mounting studs isnt necessary

[@omarb2021]

I have a 2005 I need done .. Is it the same ??

[@jb6574]

@@omarb2021 if it's a Ford 500 then yes..if the alternator is bigger than the stock one than you might have to undo the tie rod

[@Makingbread714]

Do I have to move the axel at all??

[@ronwilliams9382]

Fermin Ruelas no you dont

[@shawkygabriel1614]

Not at all. this is a bigger project than what you need.

[@jb6574]

No..this job isnt as complicated as it looks. Plus theres no need to undo the tie rod or take out the bottom mounting studs..at least for an 05 fivehundred

[@SandCarServices]

I get that a lot. But if the alternator is an aftermarket with a larger case, you have no choice.

[@jb6574]

@@SandCarServices that makes sense

[@aseamin40]

Stupidest fucking place for the alternator smh smh Always Keep The Alternator on Top! It’s such a hassle doing all of that with no lift.

[@stevenbrewer7314]

How to replace the starter?

[@slpreyes8418]

Steven Brewer did u ever get to change the starter? I'm tryna to replace mine

[@tonycotta6602]

Good video can save you some time when you remove the steering arm just turn the wheel all the way to right no need to remove fastners on sub frame thats how i do them on the ground it shortens the in tie rod inward gives you all the space you need . It's about 1 hr time hope it helps those out their doing this job .But for those of you that can not take off the belt stop what your doing it just gets harder .

[@kingconfusion2295]

How tough is a starter replacement on these vehicles?

[@russellboughton5392]

easier that the alternator. has to be.

[@ngzcaz]

Is this the 2 wheel drive version or the 4 wheel drive ??? Ford flat rate is 7 plus hours on this for a 4WH unit.

[@mattclapper955]

Helpful video!

[@QthAgR8]

And where did u get that alternator from. I got a brand new one from O’Reilly and put it in and my check charge system light and batt light keeps popping up still I read these cars only work well with the ford alternators only. I have tried a ford alternator yet but hopefully that does the trick. The brand new one I got from O’Reilly is in now but wen they checked it there saying my alternator putting out to many volts which is causing my check charging System light to stay on. I’ve read online that aftermarket alternators don’t communicate well with the computer on these cars. My battery is also brand new and is 100# wen checked. My radio works and lights and blinkers and stuff but my dash went out and that batt light shows. Ac only works wen the car ignition is on but wen I start the car the ax stops working. We found a 05 ford 500 at the junk yard wth the alternator still in it but we don’t kno the size wrench or socket to use to take the screws off. Please let m know what’s going on.

[@briarhash5147]

same thing going on

[@MattyMind]

Really not looking forward to doing this especially on the ground my only hope is to get over to my buddy's shop and get his lights replaced in the shop so he can do my alternator while I work on his new lights LOL awesome I think the plastic shielding is there to maybe cut down on the amount of dirt and kick up from the ground since it's so close

[@JamesWelbes]

"If you're capable of taking out the alternator I shouldn't have to show you how to take the belt off" OK next video then.

[@vindief0p]

You should know how to take a belt of if your doing the job guy

[@JamesWelbes]

@@vindief0p so you're not allowed to do anything unless you already know how to do it... Ok that makes sense.

[@jackprentice9498]

@@JamesWelbes hope u found out, theres a tensioner pulley on the right side of the wheel well, he points to it at the beginning of the vid. Pull that and pull the belt off

[@JamesWelbes]

@@jackprentice9498 yeah I found another video that explained that. Thanks for following up!

[@MrAgbrown]

@@vindief0p that's dumb af to say

[@anthonymack7786]

merry me? .... lol... I thing it was Volvo engineers...

[@ccvee7287]

Yeah. My daughters car is definitely going to the mechanic

[@wickedninja8599]

So all you need is a car lift that 99% of people don’t have....damn!

[@SandCarServices]

You do not need a car lift, you would need to support it on safety stands that would allow for using a jack to lower frame.

[@freebrady8789]

Lol no you can do it without a lift

[@ngzcaz]

Ok.......... just saw the header as being an 06 Ford 500.. I have a 2007 Ford Escape 4WH.. so I guess the nightmare for me is real...

[@desmondspamer5097]

Ohhhhhh boy I am already seasick.....head cams just don't work man!!!!!!

[@SandCarServices]

+Desmond Spamer sorry there wasn't somebody available to shoot the video for me. I'm just doing these to help people out you have to work with me here

[@JamesWelbes]

Yeah I can't get the belt off that's easily the hardest part of this

[@willyirvin4640]

It was definitely a beeeee-atch! Luckily I had a breaker bar that was skinny enough to fit between the metal wheel well wall and the belt tensioner

[@RJ_Cormac]

If the plastic shield was for heat it would melt or be made of aluminum. Plastic heat shield is oxymoronic!

[@no1luhrs]

Leave the subframe and tie rod alone, you can sneak it out.... cut the wheel all the way to the right.

[@SandCarServices]

Not if the prior installer put in an after market alternator with a larger case!!!! That what happened here.Thanks.

[@shawkygabriel1614]

I understand that you can get away with the subframe in place but not the tie rod.!!!

[@dewaynepearson3878]

@@shawkygabriel1614 I didnt take tierod loose it was factoru

[@SandCarServices]

Won't work that way with aftermarket alternators with larger cases.

[@dewaynepearson3878]

@@SandCarServices Most us rebuilders use the core?

[@FltWilliam]

Thank you very much for this video! I had to replace the alternator on my sister's mother in laws Ford 500. It took me about two hours to do it from start to finish. Hehe of course I don't have a lift. :) You saved me a ton of time and headache! I would have been ripping my hair out otherwise. Stupid Chilton's book doesn't say anything about dropping the sub-frame down an inch and there is no way on God's green earth that the alternator is coming out without doing that. Bless you and have a Merry Christmas!

[@shawkygabriel1614]

Just a little correction or let me say confirmation, the nut size you need to use to take the top nut off is 13mm not 10mm as he mentioned unless it is different from car to another.

[@SandCarServices]

yes, bolts do change depending on different factors. Thats why I dont like giving bolt sizes or torque specs.

[@paulthesoundguy1]

And it’s a plas

[@juanitalatney1431]

You can't see what he's doing

[@72fordmaverick]

like a boss

[@patrainsford8399]

Way over kill!! All you had to do is turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to get the clearance you need to get it in/out!

[@greenunity970]

Pat Rainsford is this true?

[@digitaldeath1876]

Yes it is true I done it myself

[@DFranco91]

All the way to the right or the left??

[@no1luhrs]

Yes you are correct. Leave the subframe and outer tie rod alone you can sneak it out easily

[@corir5372]

0

[@dondavis9249]

He made it alot more complex than it really was should have just not made the video then if u wanted people to go to your shop got mine out with have the steps

[@paulthesoundguy1]

I never got to finish watching the vid.....got sick from all the head swings...... Next time use a tripod and spend just a few more minutes to make a better vid.....

[@russellboughton5392]

the head swinging and the light bar in view was all you picked up on? go troll someone else. He did a great job. got me through my 2007 500 replacement.;

[@SandCarServices]

Thank you. If he returns any and all information learned I will give him a full refund. Oh yeah he didn't pay me. Oh well. But seriously if you notice I have used the head mount again.

[@detech8149]

stupid ford design