1/24 Airfix Typhoon: Part 1

In the first episode of this series, I construct the cockpit and engine of Airfix's Typhoon 1b. This kit offers new challenges in a large scale as things that were before able to be hidden are blatantly obvious. Fit issues with the engine build almost put this build off track before it really starts.

[@jamesdarby5462]

Superb and helpful video. I have been "sitting" on mine for about 5 years, almost too afraid to build it, in case I balls it up!!! Despite being a very experienced modeller, this is a scary proposition. You have inspired me to get started. Many thanks.

[@darronhedges5873]

Going from \48 to a \32 Mustang i realized how much you can get away with 'scruffy' scratchbuild work on smaller scales,\24 you have nowhere to hide.Looks great,as usual.

[@johnmclean6498]

I have always been fascinated by this aircraft and its powerplant. You have the engine looking first class with your skill and patience. BTW, the "tail" issue wasn't caused by overstressing, but rather by the elevator balance attachment shearing unexpectedly causing flutter and failure. It was a simple re-inforcing and re-design which solved the problem. Something like 28 aircraft were so lost, most of the unfortunate pilots lost. Looking forward to more of your build.

[@robbo1068]

A really great start....lots of detailing, scratch-building and informative commentary. Regardless of the fit issues you are doing a stellar job so will look forward to the next episode/s.

[@rukinsoonawala714]

The avionics' decals are all supposed to go on the back of the glass for the three dimensional effect. I used them on Tamiya's 1/32 A6M5 and they laid down like a dream and the cockpit looked absolutely fabulous OOB.

[@voodoonights1671]

Lovely start . Looking forward to the rest of this.

[@greybeardmodels]

That's a great start. I'm nearing the end of my build. Everything you found, I found. Its a great kit to build but you need to be experienced and on top of your game. I added the Eduard Cockpit detail etch kit and also the Airscale Instrument Panel kit. Good luck with the rest of the build.

[@BrettG64]

Some great work there, MG. I'm really digging all of the extra work on that engine!

[@TheModelGuy]

MG will be my new gang name moving forward. You heard it from Brett first :) Thanks!

[@Superm0ix]

It's looking fantastic!!! The effort is totally worth it. I can't wait to see the next episodes

[@LsScaleModels]

Thank you for the inspiration. Excellent work. Looking at my model after applying some of your techniques, It's Looking fantastic. Look forward to viewing some more of your builds.

[@mtacoustic1]

Dekal?? Oh! DEE - Cal! Love Tiffys! A real bulldog of an aircraft.

[@mtacoustic1]

One of those po - ta - toe / pah -taa - toe things!

[@kurlybitz]

It is pronounced dee-cal. www.dictionary.com/browse/decal From “decalcomania” which is derived from the French word, décalcomanie.

[@tomcline5631]

When you were talking about the clear control panel piece,I've built some semi truck models,1\25 scale and a couple 1\16 scale ,that had both decals and glass for the dash,and the instructions were very specific about putting the decals in the gauges and then placing the glass over them. I'd imagine it's the same concept here. Lots of this shit crosses over,so hope this helps in any future builds. Had to massage the clear pieces edges a little but worth the effort! Especially since you don't have to wait for the product you use for glass look to dry. Some of that stuff takes forever to cure. I remember the testers clear maker stuff, it knocked your build back like 36 hrs for it to dry hard enough not to deform. I tend to remove locater pins or drill out the locater hole. The issue usually comes up on the engine halves and on the suspension on those semi trucks I build.

[@TheModelGuy]

This is the opposite thought, the clear piece sits behind the instrument panel so adding the decals in before doesn't work, unless I was supposed to make a plate for them to sit on

[@tomcline5631]

@@TheModelGuy oh well hell. That don't make make much sense does it? I misunderstood you,but really that seems kinda weird. Oh well cool build so far,love the extra details,look forward to the rest.

[@basmoleman1488]

I recently built the Tamiya 1:32 Corsair and indeed encountered the decal-clear part solution you described. I thought it was very odd but decided to go by the book. That turned out awesome. So what happens is you stick the coloured side of the decal to the back of the clear part. Then you glue the clear part into its frame and done. It looks fantastic because the clear part works a bit like a lens for the decal print. I can send you some pics if you're interested. Downside of that build is that I screwed up the primer and realised it during weathering. I'd rather learn my lessons on cheaper kits.

[@SprueFascinationChannel]

That's coming along nicely.

[@paulmillard1130]

Hawker was expert using 1920s tube frame technology just like on the Hurricane but they should have moved on to aluminium sheet construction at this level .Flying one of these would be akin to a rodeo rider .A model I wanted above all others in 1/48 and I maybe one of these 1/24 but the extra work involved as I know Airfix would let me down Ive been making them over 50 years . You are doing a nice job of this you have more patience than I.

[@johnhodges8529]

Brilliant… Really effective build. Thank you!

[@gerryparker1390]

Oh oh, I have this kit and those kit issues are probably bigger than I can handle. Nice work and excellent, informative narration. While I am at it well photographed and lit.

[@mensrea2686]

Excellent work my friend

[@TheBodi91]

So far so nice! Looking for the next video , cheers!

[@bobdyer422]

Just take your time and it'll build out properly. A couple of friends have built this monster and what you complain about,they did also. The only Typhoon that is left in the world is at the IWM in the UK, BUT it was found in the U.S. in a hangar at the now O'Hare International. This "Tiffy" was missing outer fuse panels, radiator & proper gunsight. That's why Airfix got the rad wrong along with the gunsight. Airfix 1/24th is a walk in the park compared to Trumpeter & Vintage Fighter 1/24th kits. Looks good, KUTGW!

[@iannicholls7476]

Thanks a lot. I really enjoyed that. I like your format- no annoying background music; good close-ups and plenty of intelligent commentary about what you are doing. I’ve hit subscribe!

[@TheModelGuy]

I'm glad the format is popular with people :)

[@wbpsmodels3452]

This is masterpiece work! Truly amazing!!

[@gendoikari6062]

Thanks for sharing your build.. I'm not ready to start mine....still a little green for such project

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Nice attention to detail Dude! TFS 'thanks for sharing'. GB :)

[@hollowvoices1268]

That third hand confused me so much for a second there. "WHAT IS GOING ON" was all I thought lol

[@TheModelGuy]

It was a "WTF" moment during editing too...but I kept it in for a laugh. The Model Kid is always around doing his stuff too and asking lots of questions

[@nigelsmith4948]

Hi, I just watched a few of your videos and think your work is excellent and background stories are a good addition. Maybe a challenge for you, would you make an Airfix starter kit and only use the paints and brush provided to show the beginner how good these can be and what, if any, weathering/realistic effects can be achieved with supplied equipment? Anyway, nice work and keep it up

[@andidixon-keeling448]

Ij i 3jj

[@owenchristie6958]

Dude your skill is totally up their with plasmos, scale hanger 182… keep it up

[@TheModelGuy]

Thanks Owen. Make sure you're checking out the newer stuff too. I'm going to be starting a 1/24 Hellcat late this year or early next.

[@sholtham1]

Fantastic work! I like the idea of using the putty for the panel. The amount of clean-up you had to do is unacceptable for a modern kit. I built the old 1/24 Airfix Stuka a couple of years ago and I'm sure it wasn't as bad as this.

[@RaduB.]

A tad big for my taste this scale but it is looking good for the time being!

[@Carbon_1]

looks awesome already!

[@lawrieflowers8314]

This is very impressive work! Subscribed on the strength of it. And I see I've got Part II & III to enjoy - it just gets better.... On a much, much darker note, I hadn't heard about the enemy doing that to captured Typhoon/Tempest pilots. Is that well documented?

[@bsimpson6204]

Try and find a copy of Typhoon Pilot by Desmond Scott, it's a brilliant read about his time with the Typhoon in WW2

[@MrShotmagnet]

Answering your question about the instrument panel decal and placing it on the clear part, yes, that's apparently how it's supposed to go. I have a ZM Raiden, which has the same feature. I think I like the Edward sandwich method better, with a drop of clear or PVA to represent the instrument glass, but there we are.

[@meauxjeaux431]

HELL YEAH !

[@edwardquin4464]

Man, that video went fast!

[@sergetheriault3171]

Is there a good decal softener that you recommend, I'm using Microsol and it just isn't working

[@davidp7414]

How much do you dilute the Vallejo chipping fluid? Does it go on smooth? I am concerned with its’ effect on the finish (where not chipped) PS Great to hear you on PPP

[@TheModelGuy]

I believe I did 50/50. Now I use AK Heavy Chipping fluid straight from the bottle. I'm glad you enjoyed the PPP interview. That was a great time

[@peterdiepenthal4090]

From my experiance your suppost to put the decol on behind the clear panel but if the cleae panel is a little smoky you cant see the dacol

[@Twirlyhead]

"Air lines" to operate wing cannons you say. Genuine question here: was it air or hydraulcs ? Hydraulics seems more likely.

[@TheModelGuy]

I'd have to look into it more, but my understanding is they were air activated solenoids.

[@woody3590]

If I can ask a qustion from a newby lol . I have noticed you first painted it black 2:09 then silver at 2:58 then the green at 3:48 is there a reason for the 3 coats???

[@TheModelGuy]

Yes, The black is a primer so the paint has something to stick to. Then the green is the base colour of the engine and the next black coat is chipped away to simulate wear and tear

[@billbrowning3021]

Looking good! It looks like the artificial horizon decal is on upside down. Shouldn’t the vertical bar in the middle extend from the bottom of the instrument?

[@TheModelGuy]

I almost shit my pants until I referenced the photo again. When you are sure, but then you have that little doubt "Did I lock the truck?" images.app.goo.gl/zgGaxggZLRJNpchHA

[@billbrowning3021]

The Model Guy Sure enough. I certainly would have screwed that up. References for the win...always. Looking forward to the next one...

[@frankceeko4596]

It is upside down !!!

[@TheModelGuy]

@@frankceeko4596 it's not. Look at the link above.

[@frankceeko4596]

@@TheModelGuy I've looked up some photos of it and you are right. Still it's an odd looking ADI

[@TR_TenSeven]

It's almost 2 years later so you probably already know this, but... When it comes to threading the HGW seat belts it help a lot to thread the belts thru the buckles while still attached to the PE fret, especially in 1/48 scale, then cut the buckles from the fret. This method makes them much easier to work with as they are far less fiddly.

[@TheModelGuy]

It's two years later, but the 1/24 Hellcat I said I didn't want to do is nearing the bench. Maybe starting January.

[@TR_TenSeven]

@@TheModelGuy I'm a new sub to your channel, looking forward to seeing what you do with that big Hellcat. A couple of guys on Large Scale Planes forum have done that kit with impressive results, with your skills I'm anticipating more of the same.

[@garyhiggins6718]

Hi Model Guy, if you want to build it as a restoration job, why not have some modern bits and pieces lying around in the hangar groundwork?

[@macnutz4206]

That engine was so finicky and unreliable, I would expect to see evidence of constant maintenance.

[@garyhiggins6718]

Rather than the coarse milliput, try using the much smoother MagicSculpt.

[@dr.doppeldecker3832]

The HGW seatbelts are much easier to assemble if you leave the buckles on the photo etch fret and cut them out after you inserted the belt;)

[@TheModelGuy]

That's good to know. I got them for my 1/32 Corsair and Zeke

[@shannonlewis1737]

If you put it backwards you’ve just the shot your self in the foot.what did you do it with you’re references.

[@davidhack1974]

I wish Airfixwould do the Hawker Tempest V ,Amuch improved version of the Typhoon.

[@calebfitzgerald2163]

Dont stop please

[@TheModelGuy]

I won't! There will be a slow down the first week of April as I am moving and will be closing up the bench for a few days. Shouldn't affect releases much.

[@calebfitzgerald2163]

@@TheModelGuy are gonig to get more 1.24 models to go with the typhoon

[@TheModelGuy]

@@calebfitzgerald2163 it may be a while. I only had this kid because a coworker was selling it for $80. Normal cost Canadian is $220.

[@otterformosa2968]

Will you build a Airfix F6F5 1/24? :D

[@TheModelGuy]

If I had one sent to me. Or significantly marked down. This was $80 Canadian, normally $220

[@otterformosa2968]

@@TheModelGuy $80? Where where!!!

[@TheModelGuy]

Otter Formosa I bought it from a friend

[@otterformosa2968]

@@TheModelGuy are you on Face Book?

[@TheModelGuy]

@@otterformosa2968 I am! robbiethemodelguy

[@bobvagene3001]

Dr. Deckal and Mr. Hyde

[@gsxrdave1974]

has the tamiya putty got a smell to it please ?

[@TheModelGuy]

Yes. It’s a lacquer so it has a smell

[@gsxrdave1974]

@@TheModelGuy thank you i'm looking for a plastic filler with no smell or very little smell have you any suggestions ?

[@FMChimera]

DEE- CAL

[@TheModelGuy]

Like I've explained before. It's not pronounced "Dee-cal" in the Maritimes and the East Coast of Canada. There are also plenty of places in western Canada and the world that say it the same way. That doesn't mean you are right and we're wrong. Relax

[@moisteroyster7760]

Whats a deckel?

[@TheModelGuy]

How Maritimers/Eastern Canadians pronounce decal. Or some Western Canadians.

[@johnjones4825]

The rest of the world that speaks and pronounces English correctly says it that way.

[@TheModelGuy]

@@johnjones4825 what is the right way to speak English? Do you know any Scots? Newfoundlanders? Brits?

[@moisteroyster7760]

Idk aboot that

[@johnjones4825]

@@TheModelGuy I'm of Scottish origin, speak South African English. Our English teacher said that we should "endeavour to speak the Queen's English". I suppose every nation has their quirks of pronunciation, my comment was a little tongue in cheek....oh, and I also say "dekal".

[@stevenartmann2642]

Clean up on this kit is a bitch, not a bad kit so far though