1:350 Scale Enterprise Refit Build Pt 18 Saucer Assembly

From TrekWorks:
This video from the the 1:350 scale Enterprise Refit covers the assembly of the upper and lower saucer halves and then mounting it onto the secondary hull.

[@DarqueJester]

As Usual Another Fantastic Video, However; I Was Really Looking Forward To The Mounting Of The Saucer Section. I Don't Have A Tenth Of The Tools You Have, But I Thought By Watching How A Master Builder Does It, I Might Be Able To Come Up With Something To Compensate For My Lack Of Tools.

[@kingscorpion7346]

so funny the way you keep putting in the clips from "The Doomsday Machine" of Commodore Decker loosing his mind telling Kirk about what happened to the Constellation...

[@HDAmodelworx]

Excellent detail and great "how too" by far. This is the best instructional series on the refit period. Well done and got to keep an eye out for the devil!!! ;)

[@PitViper329]

Nice guest spot with Commodore Decker! :)

[@paulwhomartin]

Yet another brilliant and informative film showing and teaching your viewers how to build their models to the highest of standards. Your build is looking absolutely fantastic the best build I've seen of this kit bar non, you should be very proud of your work Boyd :-)

[@TrekWorks]

Thanks Paul, I'm improving with each one of these kit's I build. I really love these ships and I try my best to do them justice.

[@kevinbirnbaum6460]

At the end of video 17 yu said you were going to show how to paint the B/C deck area. Did you forget? Thank you.

[@quigon87yt]

Great job on restoring power to the torpedo bays, looks like you avoided the Doomsday machine just in time. Kirk would be proud. :) The saucer section looks great. BTW

[@TrekWorks]

Thanks, lesson learned. Never think you know too much to read the instructions and double check everything. That mistake could have been BIG.

[@davelowry5339]

I love the clips from Star Trek to punctuate your point. Terrific!!

[@wraith20072007]

Does anybody keep trying to look around and beyond the model forgetting your watching a video and not there in person to do that...cause I do lol

[@coldmage]

Amazing job! Keep it up!

[@KuldipGillDigitalMarketer]

Rookie question, would it not be easier to do the putty work before paint?

[@garybrinker178]

Just asking...Is there a reason why most modelers put there circut boards in the model instead of in the base? Seems it would be easer to make repairs in the base.

[@TrekWorks]

It goes both ways and some choose to mount the boards in the base and others like me put them in the model if there is enough room. I use very high quality boards that have a 5 year warranty on them. I have had many of them running for hundreds of hours in my own models with zero failures. The chances of a board failure which is good quality and wired properly is very small. There are fewer wires that need to pass from the model to the base in this way as well. Keep in mind also that usually when a board fries, it will take out other parts of the circuit with it. Things like the LED's and such. That means that you'll probably have to open up the model anyway to repair it.

[@knowles217]

I have done put in all the wired and soundboard and light first before paint and name of ship make sure all wired test and soundboard before you paint and name and number then if there a problem fix before you paint and assembly Boyd

[@TrekWorks]

That's a very good idea and good practice.

[@JoshuaHall]

Quick question. What type of glass did you use for the officer's lounge? Any recommendations on a place to pick it up? I was considering a glass solution, but wasn't sure a) if I'd be good enough to cut it, and b) the slight curvature wouldn't be painfully obvious. However, it clearly worked well for you, so I'll give it a shot ;)

[@TrekWorks]

It's not really glass. It's just clear plastic I get from clam shell packaging. Thin and flexible so it will make curves if needed. If it's scratched I use a little fine auto polish compound on it.

[@JoshuaHall]

That makes more sense ;)

[@AngrySciFiModeler]

Hmmmmm. Another solution to that type of problem with the torpedo lights would be to modify the board. This could work assuming that the board is easier to access than the lights of course. What you could do is solder on jumper wires across the resistors on the board that go towards your LEDs. Or, if you can, remove the resistors and replace them with some wire.

[@davidpaschedag271]

This is one of the best one's yet! Love the little comedy in it.

[@CameronLewisTankton]

Love the comedy. Question though, wouldn't it have been easier to just bypass the resistors on Ralphs board?

[@TrekWorks]

It would have been easier to bypass the resistors for sure. But in doing these videos I always want to show new and beginner people ways to do things. Some people may not have yet learned more complex electronics knowledge and would have no idea how to perform a bypass on a circuit board.

[@legionnaire54]

what is the appliance on your workbench that powers your circuit/led testing? It has the dual, red digital readouts. Thanks.

[@B.Wildered]

Pearls of wisdom about not giving up on a model. Also, appreciate the hints and tips about putty. I’m going to give good ole Squadron another try.

[@HammerofThor00]

Did you leave the windows out on the saucer?? My pieces for the windows have bubbles in some and will look terrible being backlit....

[@dennoh01]

I came across your videos whilst searching for hints on how to apply wood planking to a Billings Boat (Viking) ... I have spent the last 2 days watching these Enterprise Refit builds. WHY???? .... Because they are by far the best series of model making videos I have watched on KZbin!! Excellent, excellent videos ... informative and interesting. Congratulations! Here's hoping you get 'into' wooden ship models :-) Lots of luck on your expansion plans.

[@TrekWorks]

Well thank you very much :)I have a lot of different interests in model building so someday I just might try a wood model.

[@theancientgamer8524]

LOL...ironic that you used a clip from that episode as I wanted to ask you about that anyway...any plans to rejoin that build about the Planet Killer?

[@TrekWorks]

Oh yes, I'll get round to building the Doomsday Machine Diorama. I've got some cool ideas for it. :)

[@MrChief101]

Nicely instructional, Boyd. Couple thoughts: I'm surprised you haven't made some kind of large jig to grab and stabilize the saucer during this phase. That's a lot of yanking and moving around. You make enough Refits to be able to use it many times. Have you considered placing the drive circuitry off-ship? Better for such mild mistakes that add to gray hairs. Finally, Mr. Windom makes any problem seem much, much bigger... (nice 'maw')

[@TrekWorks]

Eliot, you sir are what we refer to as a genius. I jig is an excellent idea! I will endeavor in that general direction post haste. Your right. I've got many Refits in my future and it will be worth the time. My thinking on the control boards and putting them inside is less wiring coming out of the model. Usually when a board shorts out it will take some of the lights or whatever was connected to it along with. Would still lead to cracking it open to replace whatever went the way to the electronic graveyard. I would like to start using some multi pin connectors that would allow me to build things in a component fashion and just plug them together. Then I could build the saucer etc and complete all the work on it first before attaching it to the hull. Plug and play style.

[@MrChief101]

TrekWorks You are too kind-- my thanks. My heart was in my mouth when you spoke of needing to sand the "glue seams" and I could see the saucer moving a lot...I first thought, you should put your knee on it! But this way you could also jack the whole thing up at an angle to see the edge, or anything else, better. The board thing can certainly seem to be a "pick'em"-- if you're using LEDs they should last for generations-- then wiring is the next weak link (though nothing would have prevented the "slip of memory" you experienced-- then I should go into my rant about using micro nuts and bolts to assemble large models, like they do at ILM (and I think it was the one-way, sealed-up build of the 1701 that made them start using nuts & bolts) -- you might consider having some access points, like the front sensor ring, the bridge and "crystal" assembly-- all be removable... (I agree that very little will help a saucer's edge burn out-- two LEDs in every spot...? that way leads to madness)) But having the board external seems to be the only way to fix something that the board designer did not plan. Most boards are made by pros (except mine) and should be able to handle ordinary rough-housing. It just seems like the last leap of faith to seal up ALL the wiring + board and have power and switching wires come out of the hull...

[@AussieTrekkie]

Hey Boyd, Just wondering what colour you used to paint the Hatches on the lower half of the saucer?

[@TrekWorks]

It's just a light grey that I mixed up myself using some flat white and black.

[@DarthHater100]

Boyd reminds me of Michael Bay. . .

[@stevenmcgrath5114]

The white hull now looks grey, how did you do that ? ? ?

[@PunkyWily]

Hey there 1/16th scale General Lee, be cool to see Boyd do a build up of you some day. ;)

[@TrekWorks]

I have, there are pictures of the finished model on my TrekWorks Facebook page.

[@DarthVader1033]

Really awesome work Boyd,if I may ask what is the best way to get in contact with you,I have a question I need to ask you about building a 1/350 1701 A Enterprise.I know I can send you a pm on the forum but wanted to know if you have another way of contacting you. Thanks and keep up the awesome work..

[@TrekWorks]

my email is [e-mail]

[@DarthVader1033]

TrekWorks Thanks Boyd I just sent you a e-mail asking you a few questions,

[@jasonchan9125]

Thanks of uploading all these videos. They are very detailed and helpful. I am building this model currently. However, I am having trouble of gluing the top part of the secondary hall because once I put the nacelles on, it will get disconnected with the main body. Could you tell me how did you glue it and what kind of cement did you use? Thank you very much.

[@TrekWorks]

I just use regular Testors red tube model cement. It's been around forever and it's still very good for styrene plastic model kits. Some people knock it but I've got a room full of models built with it that are holding together just fine.The trick is the area you are gluing has to be perfectly clean with no paint or primer on it at all. Just bare plastic. Jason Chan

[@jasonchan9125]

TrekWorks Thanks for replying. That helps a lot :)