$1,577 MPP Solar LVX6048: 48V 6,000W Low Frequency Inverter! w/ 450VDC Max PV Input MPPT

[@WillProwse]

There are comments below saying I should mount to plywood, and that is exactly what I said in the video. Please watch the video before commenting! Furthermore, I had this inverter up for a grand total of 12 hours. How I mounted it worked great for the video and test we did. I usually build a system and take it apart in one day, and one mounting hole was connected to a stud, so I am not concerned the slightest. And, the drywall anchor can easily handle this inverter! Not an issue. Also have some comments saying to try 2x4. We have made numerous videos in the past, in the solar shed, with 2x4's for mounting. We do not do that anymore because they are combustible. So, as I said in the video, use a thick piece of plywood behind the hardiboard. I want to test victron inverters, but distributors told me that they rarely sell them due to their high cost. MPP and Growatts sell 20X more units, so I figured that it is more helpful to make videos about products that people actually use. I know that youtubers love victron, but that is because they have a ton of cash from ad revenue and sponsors. I test what my viewers ask me to, and what they actually buy. But I do love Victron! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: [e-mail] Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

[@unionse7en]

thin layer of gypsum over plywood, would be the best of both worlds, fire resistance & mounting strength

[@WillProwse]

@@unionse7en Oh wow, I will have to check that out. Thanks

[@WillProwse]

Oh I should also mention that the lv5048 is back on the wall, and the standard mounting method I use is 6X lag bolts, all of them going into a stud!! Absolute overkill, but I can hang my body weight on it all day and it's not going anywhere.

[@FaceTubeU]

Hi will. One function you didn't cover which this inverter was specifically designed for over the LV6048 was the ability to back feed to the grid as a hybrid inverter. If possible, can you connect this to a breaker panel to test this functionality? Thanks.

[@carsonc1272]

Those drywall anchors are a lot more powerful than people think. At work I was forced to use them on a job where I mounted about 20 monitors to drywall on an articulating arm. I would have been comfortable mounting the monitors straight to the wall with those anchors but the articulating arm seemed like too much to me. In the end, all of the monitors went up and felt very firm. To my knowledge, the customer never had issues either. So those drywall anchors are a heck of a lot stronger than people give them credit for.

[@OneNut_Huey]

Crazy that I'm appointed my life where this is what I get excited about at 2AM on a weekend.

[@Roll2Videos]

Crazy I'm at a point in my life I'm watching this while supervising the refurbishment of a unit in a nuclear power plant... LMAO! 🇨🇦✌️

[@masterwrench4252]

Whoo Who! Saturday nite with Will. Oh yea, it's party time!

[@mattpowell301]

Hahaha

[@yolo_burrito]

Welcome to your 30’s.

[@jamest5149]

Glad you are using ‘Hardy’ cement board, helps insulate heat from your studs etc and a much lower fire risk using this thermal barrier 👍

[@DrDangerPuppy]

Thanks for explaining the unknown (to me) term Will uses.

[@BrianPaine82]

Been running mpp solar LV2424 for 2 years and didn't think it would last that long but still running like a champ. Power goes out and switches to battery perfectly every time. The beep they make is a sound you will never forget.

[@csbeaver]

Same Here

[@Tiersmoke92555]

Have you upgraded to something different or are you still running the LV2424? Over the last few years have there been any notable problems with the inverter?

[@BrianPaine82]

@Tiersmoke92555 still running like a champ 24/7 still this hole time. Love that there is a app to see what it is doing and change setting even when not home

[@judeg.8101]

I love his channel and I go through the comments just to see him get frustrated by all the repeat questions that he just went over. Thanks' for the entertainment!!

[@randyb620]

I was waiting for the WP version of this for my off grid car charger. I didn’t even think the standby draw would be so incredibly high. Using over 3.2kw per day is just a deal breaker. Will reconsider the 6048 for my needs. Thank you for bringing that up and making this video. It saved me from buyers remorse.

[@sh839c]

What other unit are you considering?. I am planning my system as well.

[@davidb.5544]

@@sh839c Not sure why these cheap LF inverters have such terrible idle load but my "old" Outback VFX3648 has less than 20 watt idle load. Two of these in parallel would then be only 40 watts idle load. Other manufactures like Victron that realize idle load is an important stat that should be included in spec sheets do put them there. I'm always weary of those that refuse to mention idle load anywhere until someone has to measure it themselves.

[@Scentsational]

Its transformer loss, heat via inductance in transformer core. its a tradeoff for the robust grunt provided by LF inverters.

[@r.b.l.5841]

Me too, I went with the MPP Solar PIP LV 6048 x2 I started with just one, and later added the second one when funds were available. Same with the battery - Started with just one 100Ah 48 volt, and when I added the second MPP I added the second 100Ah server rack battery. With just one 6048 and one 100Ah battery, I could not start my large 240Volt air compressor without tripping, also could not start a 120 large chop saw, out of balance error. With two 6048 's and two 100Ah battery, no problem to start chop saw, table saw, 240 volt 6Hp air compressor, well etc. low idle consumption.

[@EastTexasHomestead]

@@r.b.l.5841 this gives me hope that the LV6548 will work for me. I have a 5Hp well pump so I assumed that I needed this LVX. Thanks for sharing

[@lielikealog]

Hi Will , just want to say i bought your book and received it yesterday . I love it . It's easy to read and understand . You're doing a great service for all of us diy do ers .

[@michaelblackstock6140]

Glad you mentioned well pumps. For those of us who have well's, finding a good alternative to a gas generator is what we need to eliminate them. FWIW, wear a hernia belt when lifting heavy stuff. I am much older than you, and learned that lesson the wrong way :-)

[@Henry-n5s]

Hello, I truly enjoy hearing and watching your videos. There is no bitterness and no arrogance behind your tone. Thank you for that and focusing on delivering an objective message. Great work!

[@XGenBoomer]

35+ years experience as a Union Electrician in NYC. I would have used at least a 3/8” or even better 1/2” toggle bolt. Been using them since my apprenticeship in the 80’s. YMMV but that’s my experience. I’ve worked on TONS of 400A services with big gear and that’s what we do ✊🏿

[@JMSobie]

That's what I use, whenever I have something chonky that has to be pinned between studs. Also my house was built in 1952 with plaster over blueboard (which enjoyed modest popularity until about 1960) so all my wall surfaces vary between 3/4" and 1" thick. A lot of these anchor systems were designed assuming 1/2" drywall but the trusty ol' toggle bolts don't mind a bit!

[@jamest5149]

A large air compression is one of the largest common loads people try and power that is a struggle ‘off-grid’.

[@WillProwse]

Good idea

[@pmeschultz]

@@WillProwse if you get compressors large enough you could harvest moisture from the air, especially if you put them in a very cold room

[@josephbrabenderiii2049]

@@WillProwse A 7.5 horsepower compressor should adequately serve your load needs. After all...you need a new toy....and you would have something to pump up your tires :-)

[@JohnMayfield-NS]

Just have to say, I'm glad to see you always wear proper eye protection. I see way too many channels that don't across many genres.

[@leifhietala8074]

You might not trust that drywall connector, but I do. They're solid. Project Farm tested the Snaptoggle-type of drywall anchor, one by itself will hold that inverter in drywall; going into a cement board, it'll hold both the inverter and you.

[@WillProwse]

I saw that video! Incredible. People underestimate their capabilities. Especially when properly installed.

[@r.b.l.5841]

Since these LF inverters are designed for starting inductive (motor) loads, perhaps a vid to cover Locked Rotor Current calculations so viewers know how to calculate how to size /select an appropriate inverter to a large motor for starting. (or avoid purchasing the wrong inverter for the motors they want to run off grid). And the case of an unbalanced starting load such as a large 120 volt motor which often trip an inverter set up with 120/240 split. Great stuff Will.

[@Ki113dbysw0rd]

I'll add that I know the drywall anchor you're using and they are very good, metal bracket that flips up behind wall and the bolt goes into that metal so it is very secure. If it comes down, it's bringing a sizeable chunk of wall with it.

[@trumpingtonfanhurst694]

Mount is fine and you totally explained it. Don't let these things bug you.

[@markb8486]

I have two of the LV6548’s in the off grid cabin. They have been working great. Very similar installation to what you have on your wall providing 240v split phase power.

[@JMSobie]

Seems to me that paralleling these two for 240, while having the higher capital cost, would still save you the standby consumption of the center-tap transformer. Most of our house is gas-fired (nat.gas is cheap in Michigan, grid electricity not-so-much), and our only 240 load is central air. However! I also have several multi-wire branch circuits and for safety reasons each hot conductor MUST be on opposite phases, so if I ever do get this house on solar (or a generator backup) I will have to use 240, like it or not.

[@smith0426]

Is the 6548 able to monitor your homes consumption, and limit its output so it covers your load but does zero export to the grid?

[@MrEvadmullek]

Hey Will, Again, before you hang your Hardy Board, Frame the outer edges with 2 x 4's... Then run horizontal 2x4's that align with your heavy mounting brackets on the LVX6048 Inverters. This makes the install secure and very appealing to the eye. Not only does the frame look good, but an air gap prevents any heat from getting to the supporting wall. Good Luck Folks

[@ojohnny5]

The 3/4 inch connectors do work and keep the wiring fixed and stable.😀 Thanks for the great video.

[@LithiumSolar]

The transformer is probably on the top due to the heat it produces and that heat rises. I like that it has vents on both sides, seems like a pretty well-thought out design. Thanks for the internal overview. But holy cow, that idle consumption is crazy. My AIMS 10kW idles around 150W and I thought that was high... Doing some rough math, the LVX6048 is idling 22.5W/kW so for comparison to my AIMS, that would be 225W. Also, I've been trying to get my hands on one of those LV6548 to play with, but seems your viewers bought them all out... 😂

[@WillProwse]

Oh good point on the idle! And the comparison to yours. Yes, it's excessively high. Might be good as a cheap LF option if it's only run a few hours a day, then being turned off the rest of the time. I did have a sungoldpower lf inverter but I can't find it. I think you did a review on that one.

[@WillProwse]

Yeah those 6548's are so sweet haha they should have a ton of inventory soon

[@LithiumSolar]

@@WillProwse Yeah the SunGoldPower 12kW idled at 227W, or 18.92W/kW. I'm not sure that's a valid metric to compare, but at least it's something. That one had a fan that ran constantly though regardless of load. Did the LVX6048 have an always-on fan? The AIMS 10kW does not. And yes, I saw the LV6548's were shipping in late February, but I have batteries coming that don't want to wait LOL. Not even my contact at MPP Solar would sell me one...

[@robertmeacham6632]

@@LithiumSolar the fan is on constantly on my LXV6048

[@paulmoore9679]

@@LithiumSolar Did you try to to determine the source of idle current draw?

[@captainobvious9188]

You know what’s fun about LF inverters is to listen to it after the grid uplink has been off for a while and your turn it again. You hear it slowly sync to the grid frequency like two instruments coming into tune together before it reconnects and goes into bypass again.

[@ReflectedMiles]

Sorry to hear about the Plaid lemon denial. They don't have a choice if you meet the legal criteria for it, so I'm assuming that's where they are splitting hairs.

[@goodcitizen4587]

Maybe Elon could launch this lemon into space on an upcoming Falcon Heavy mission.

[@fauxque5057]

Florida has a lemon law. I'm not sure of the criteria but it's spelled out very well. The car has to be repaired for the same complaint X amount of times to qualify

[@ReflectedMiles]

@@fauxque5057 The applicable law in this case is Nevada NRS 597.600 and following. Four repair attempts or 30 calendar days out of service.

[@SetchiPaunda]

nice they placed windings at the top so that heat does not cross over circuit boards. Great idea

[@T.RockTx]

The NICE thing about the LVX 6048 is that it works WITHOUT BATTERIES! If your batteries go south, you’re still in business. Also, you can be up and running without spending a for5une on batteries.

[@WillProwse]

It is advertised that way, but I think it's smart to have a small battery for a buffer to reduce stress to the components

[@davidcichowski1490]

Oh I've been waiting for this review for a while. Thanks!

[@Patrick_Cashman]

After watching this I'm glad I bought an LV6548. Thanks Will. Your channel has helped me a lot.

[@grahamkearnon6682]

Nice to see the rats nest of wires have been cleared up, as an electrician it was bothersome. A good clean presentation goes a long way, thanks for your honestly. Cheers

[@deairreoh]

You should make a video building a small system to solar charge small ev transportation like your ninebot or ebike OTG like going camping or something! Love the channel 💙

[@dylan-nguyen]

They should have a server rack one It looks close in size imo Then you could have an 8u rack with inverter and battery all in one!

[@antonwearsakilt5209]

It would appear that some unistrut would be highly recommended. To anchor this to the wall.

[@charlesrichards5389]

That would help airflow/cooling too.

[@keithbrookshire]

Excellent idea. I was going to suggest mounting a horizontal plank with lag bolts and then mounting the inverter onto that. The unistrut is a better idea.

[@charlesrichards5389]

@@keithbrookshire Yeah, I was going to suggest French cleats until someone else mentioned that wood violates code. I'm sure there is unistrut made using the same principle (so a heavy object can be hung on a lip then bolted down).

[@WillProwse]

That is a fantastic idea.

[@roberts.5861]

Excellent overview. I am new to all this conversion for solar. Setting up all our off-grid power hungry items very soon. Well pump first then the 4 tiny homes..!! Thanks again..!!

[@PhysicsViolator]

Still running my pip 5048 mg to this day with 0 problems 😊

[@michaelreilly3100]

There $1200 now! On my Christmas list! Will definitely check out the 6548

[@paulmoore9679]

Inductive load: a pool pump motor would be a great inductive load for testing your inverter. Another point is look at the approach for high frequency DC-DC switch mode power supplies. They have a very small inductor and have small output ripple at with large current loads; in general the output inductor is implemented to reduce the current transients. If you store charge in the output capacitor, and switch at high frequency you avoid the conduction losses in your output inductor. Additionally, you don't have to dump the energy stored in a capacitor but you do for an inductor or else it will find a path and cause something to reach its breakdown voltage. Just some thoughts . . . hoping to hear more ideas, even corrections.

[@gattaca5911]

I like your going into detail on snags/frustrations/preferences and following up on them.

[@del-marrentallandscapesupp615]

Uniestrut would be the professional choice for mounting any heavy equipment , hundreds of bracket shapes and full nut bolt sizes. Hope this helps ,keep up the top notch work.

[@stuartornum]

The GivEnergy Hybrid inverters are the best in my opinion. They have excellent API integration which means hooking up to Home Assistant is a breeze. You don’t have to use their batteries either, although they are very well priced

[@rsachoc]

Not available in the US though, is that correct?

[@antibrevity]

Thanks for the video! In some places you sound a bit under the weather so I hope you're feeling well.

[@dan9372]

Uni-strut would work well for you to secure the equipment to more than one stud. Uni-strut and 3/8" spring nuts.

[@petergravy6893]

I've been running a MPP 8048MAX for almost a year now and generally very happy. I use it in battery mode mostly and it powers my whole house. I restrict the battery power output a little to ensure a long life. It switches from battery to mains(utility) without any issues with computers to airconditioners. Greetings from Perth, Western Australia. Thanks for all your interesting videos.

[@barms9768]

I've used those zip-style drywall anchors hundreds of times over the last decade or so. As far as anything attached straight to drywall goes, they are impressive and I have a lot of faith in them. Though definitely NOT recommended and potentially extremely dangerous, I've even had situations where I had to support my entire 200+ pound body weight on a couple of those anchors, and they didn't budge. It's always best and far superior to get straight into a stud, or like you said and use plywood (not OSB, real plywood). Or if you have access to the back-side of the drywall or the framing before the drywall is installed, put some horizontal 2x4 or 2x6 blocking between the studs at the height of the anchor points.

[@DrDangerPuppy]

What about a 2x4 anchored onto the drywall studs one each for top & bottom. Then obviously mount the unit to the 2x4s. I think Will mentioned something like this?

[@barms9768]

@@DrDangerPuppy You could, but I wouldn't do it that way. A piece of 3/4" plywood (real plywood, not OSB) anchored to 2 or more studs will do the same thing, will offer a large anchor point for various components, and won't stick out into the room as much. Most electricians mount a piece of plywood to the block or interior wall when they hang a breaker box. Same reason.

[@kb6lcw99]

Thanks for all you share.

[@Bruce-ub8dv]

I like that this has L1-L2-C-G connections. Even though I've done it a few times, I always have a pause when wiring and I don't have all the connections and have to splice wires. I know you are a sticks and bricks guy now, but could you do a video on putting an AIO system into an RV that doesn't have the Common and Ground tied together at the panel (although most transfer switches will tie them while on gen). Getting that bond for something that is sometimes plugged in / sometimes not is the most common question that I see.

[@Djhoodrich.]

After watching your videos I decided to do A DYI of solar at my house it seems so easy

[@yolo_burrito]

Those type of drywall anchors are very good. Great vid Will.

[@mikejohnson7768]

William your really increasing your profit per unit!

[@DTXGaming]

@Will Prowse. Please take the following as PSA. I've been running an MPPSolar Max 11k since last year and was always baffled that it never exceeded 100A charging from it's 2x mppt controllers (150A charging rated), while having 9x550W panels hooked up to each. So I finally decided to ask MPPSolar about it. The email I got informed me that although it can handle 450V input per string, it will limit charging to 90A @55.6V (60% of it's rated charge current) when PV string voltage exceeds 360V. The rep's suggestion was that I parallel strings per tracker to stay below that threshold - which I find utterly disappointing, given that the whole point of going 450V was to avoid paralleling. And to be clear this only affects charging current, not inverter output, which I tested successfully at over 10 kW, while charging. I think prospective buyers should be aware of this, since I didn't see it documented anywhere. Thanks.

[@blakeoelfke5724]

YES YES YES! I’m commenting this before even starting the video I’ve been waiting for this one I’ve been asking a lot about this new unit on the forums and here my main man Willy comes to bless us all with his delicious knowledge! I’m ordering one of these very soon for my tiny house project!

[@blakeoelfke5724]

Great video Will! Looks like I’m needing the 6548 and not this LVX model.

[@Coyot21]

What if you used 2 2x4's mounted to the studs in the wall allowing air flow behind the unit?

[@edwardbyrd7667]

I formed a cleat by bevel cutting a 2x4

[@WillProwse]

Yeah we did that in older videos multiple times.

[@Coyot21]

@@WillProwse Thank you for the response. I am still catching up on your older videos.

[@billjohnson3344]

If you have a 3 or 4 ton central A/C compressor you can wire this to, that is big surge load that most people would try to run with one of these with. Speculation is you'll overload the inverter - and probably need 2 inverters in tandem.

[@niktak1114]

I've been running mine since July. The high idle consumption was disappointing but that's the price you pay for a cheaper LF inverter.

[@bobolones6834]

Do you know if the inverter does any type of N-G bonding internally ? (Example: when switching from AC In to Battery/Solar)

[@niktak1114]

@@bobolones6834 I believe it does when it's not in passthrough mode

[@bobolones6834]

Thats surprising. I would think that forces you to use it in between a Main and a Sub panel only

[@bobolones6834]

Thanks for replying

[@fvrrljr]

my Mobile Solar Power book arrived today 😁👍

[@NedKLee]

PIP 5048 GK since Nov.19, Runs the whole house 24/7 not a problem. Adding a PIP 8048 Max for redundancy.

[@vhfgamer]

Dear Will Thank you for another excellent video. May I make a request? Could you please add an AM transistor radio to your testing regime? Some of us are concerned with the amount of spurious RF these inverters put out, because we're operating RF sensitive equipment. All you would have to do is turn on the AM radio to where there is no radio station, and see if the device makes the radio squeal. Then walk away a few feet and see if the squeal goes away. That would tell us if the manufacturer is properly filtering their product. Thanks again!

[@JMSobie]

I dunno about the FETs but I would imagine anything with a big-arse iron core transformer is gonna give you a fair amount of mains hum...

[@vhfgamer]

@@JMSobie I couldn't care less about mains hum. That's just 60 cycles, and doesn't bother radio transmitters up in 160-10 meters.

[@vhfgamer]

@@uncledoug9934 Yep, same here. I have a Bluetti and it vomits RF all over the place.

[@vhfgamer]

@@uncledoug9934 I tried chokes, but it didn't solve the problem with the bluetti. I suppose I'll have to pull it apart and filter it internally, but I haven't had the time yet.

[@ChrisDIYerOklahoma]

One serious "all in one" split phase home RE system for not much money. Slap 10,000 watts in PV on it (6,000w max...but, you know what I mean), 30 kWh lithium battery bank, wire it into mains with a transfer switch (or not?) and bammo...done. Nice vid Will!

[@WillProwse]

Right?! For the price, hard to beat. exactly

[@SamTravels]

Thank you for saving our Ass with this info. Sold a large system to a customer and found out we needed to refund him and take Inverter back. Keep up the good work buddy!

[@valkosel-snowboardaddictio6757]

Great video as always. Thank you for honest opinion and all skills you're sharing with us, much appreciated!!!

[@jeffreysylvester905]

Hot tub good load test. Thanks for the good videos.

[@mrscoot1]

GOOD INFORMATION. THE CONNECTION FOR +/- BATTERY CONNECTION LOOKS LIKE TO SHORT LIKE YOU SAID AND HAVING TO REMOVE RUBBER GROMMETS AROUND THE HOLES IS REALLY DANGEROUS, IF THE WIRES GET PULLED THEY COULD TOUCH THE HOLES WHERE THE GROMMETS AND DIRECTLY SHORT OUT! I WOULDN'T LEAVE IT LIKE THAT, IT WORKED FOR THE DEMONSTRATION IN THE VIDEO BUT I WOULD FIX IT ASAP!

[@centerrightproudamerican5727]

Wow Will.... you have come a long way from building little 1000W 12V systems in the back of your van

[@phillmccracken4219]

Will, you could pick up an old electric oven to use as a load bank, and make lunch at the same time.

[@tsarb47]

Thanks for the review and takedown of this! I'm using this same unit in my power/water shed in an offgrid setup with a backup generator, the EnergeTech 10kW 200AH battery (that you reviewed) and a few kW of solar panels. it runs my well pump, monitoring equipment and powers my camper when I'm down there without issue. I'm also a big fan of the onboard WiFi that ties into the SolarPower/WatchPower apps. Love this unit!

[@edwardbyrd7667]

Had one, sent it back as it wouldn’t accept the ground no matter how I wired it. My system was US normal with a bonded main panel. Santan Solar was very supportive throughout, but MPP itself was only meh I now run a 6548 which works fine for me given I have no 240 volt loads on it To hang it you can form a cleat out of a piece of 1 by or 2 by cut at an angle. This also provides an airflow space behind the unit Yes, as you noted the AC blocks suck

[@edwardbyrd7667]

@T.J. Kong that’s the term!! damned if I could remember it. Thank you

[@SmallVansBigWorld]

Using the car as a test load is perfect. I like the way tesla let's you choose the amperage. I use that feature to charge the car during peak sun hours to reduce battery cycling. If only there was a way to automate that.

[@williamtheos]

are you using the scheduling feature on the tesla?

[@KP11520]

Open the wall and run secured 2x6s sideways between the studs where you would put those wall anchor toys. Always do it RIGHT!

[@hendersonsobers396]

Excellent review Will. I'm new to this solar DIY stuff, like literally 2 weeks and have learnt so much from your channel. I do like to 6548s as well. I learnt that MPP is bringing out a LVX6048WP model which seems to take the good from the 6548 and the LVX6048 and combine them into one and added water proofing so really excited to see LVX6048WP when it's released. Great review as always.

[@Sanwizard1]

The WP is what I am waiting for. Its 600V input also. I currently have two LV6548's.

[@ssoffshore5111]

@@Sanwizard1 Sounds very interesting! The idle consumption is a deal breaker for me though, I have a lot of intermittent periods with no or little draw. These things would eat a lot of my panel output and battery capacity.

[@albertvonschultz9137]

Solo art... I can't wait to come down and see your office ility also along with Atlas survival shelters. I'm glad that Ron finally got a chance to come over take a look around. I had no idea that you guys are in the same location until I contacted you a few months back and I didn't have the idea of having you guys installed the product Into the Bunker and have it a ready-to-go system kind of drop-in play

[@FaceTubeU]

This was designed to function as a hybrid whole home inverter to operate off grid if needed but also be connected to the grid to sell excess solar PV back to the grid. It would be nice to see this functionality tested in some way or another. It's the main way of recouping the cost much faster for a home solar install. A person in a rural area still connected to the grid could run 9 of these in parallel for 54 kW of PV and if they used only 50 kWh per day, they could sell the remaining 200 kWh back to the grid. Most utilities will buy this excess power at $0.05 a kWh, so thats $3600 a year in passive income on a large install. Over the life of these inverters, 15 years, that's over $50,000, which would cover the cost of such a large PV install.

[@scotty362100]

No "most Utilities" will not buy excess power at all! In the US, most utilities will only give you credit for what you put into the grid, and it HAS to be used before your chosen anniv. date or you loose it. A small handful actually pay you for excess power to the grid.

[@Jagent]

I love your content, sir. You have a knack for breaking down this stuff in a clear and concise way. I have a question though. Would an inverter like this be appropriate to use with a wind turbine and an array of solar panels? I live in an area with enough wind to make it worth investing. I like the idea of charging a battery bank with solar and wind, but I don't know how to do it safely.

[@DrDangerPuppy]

Look into micro wind turbines.

[@ericplummer4089]

Trying to install a backup to my grid tied solar system and l have no idea where to start or how much wattage l need. Your videos are helping me answer some of my questions!

[@bballguy162006]

Do we have a way of knowing if the Idle Consumption is the power usage/waste floor of the unit or if the wasted idle consumption reduces when it is inverting a decent load? I would be curious to do a test load of say 500w or 3000w to see if the total power consumption would be less than the test load + 130w observed idle.

[@mfgxl]

I am surprised I am the first person to give your comment a thumbs up. This is an excellent thought.

[@JungleJargon]

I just got a Growatt low frequency 240v hybrid inverter for my well pump and mimi split. I don't know about anything else so I'm satisfied with it but everything is covered with snow right now so I have to go out and remove it.

[@ivancandelaria2537]

Sigineer is really good inverter the one i use is 12k model all in one and run all my house appliances and my garage tools ... I'm completely off-grid 6,000 watts PV

[@ivancandelaria2537]

600amp lifepo4 bank

[@kgchrome]

put a 2x4 across 2 studs, then screw to the 2x4... provides airflow in the back, too.

[@ervinst.germain3886]

Try an electric instant hot water heater I think they have them up to 20kwh proberbly have the same cost as one of your server rack battery's. You could hook it up and maybe run a water hose in and have a place to run hot water out. Just a thought

[@ShaneS071]

you can bolt a piece of 2x lumber between the 2 studs and bolt to that and one on the lower part of the inverter

[@martehoudesheldt5885]

ya Will; just try and start a 1hp well pump on the HF inverter (good luck) then use the LF inverter (fires right up) that is what low freq works best for. for lower price inverter/ charger (non mppt) take a look at AMPIVT and tell us what you think. attach a 1"X4" to the wall studs then lag the inverter to it. (gives more air for cooling).

[@JimmyLLL]

3.24kwh idle consumption is crazy. That is 6 x more than my 13 year old SMA.

[@Chris-hy6jy]

I thought he said about 130w idle? Where did you get 3.24 kwh from?

[@JimmyLLL]

@@Chris-hy6jy 135w for 24hrs is a total of 3.24kwh. When you are off grid you don’t fuck around turning inverters on and off.

[@Chris-hy6jy]

@@JimmyLLL ok, didn't realize you were specifying the consumption over 24hrs.

[@GowriASU]

Yes, I agree with you that MPP Solar hybrid unit being better than Growatt unit. I lost expensive batteries by hooking them to Growatt. I have used only MPP Solar LV6048 hybrid, it is easy to install, configure and use. Growatt with its external Autotransformer it has more wirings and it doesn't work well with Tesla batteries (without BMS) but that is not the case with MPP Solar LV6048 unit though.

[@marcfruchtman9473]

Great review... as other commenters have already noted, the lack of the rubber grommet to protect the wires from the case, is unbelievably dangerous, and I really wish you had not done that even if it was just for "demo" purposes. I agree that the case needs more space below as well. I also dislike the small battery terminals as well.

[@SylwerDragon]

Thanks for video. I could suggest big load..It is usually air compressors..they produce high currents and you can get them cheaply.. Second the best thing is air con ..usually that old type ..without inverter.. Those have pretty huge current spikes ..i remember i had 3kw inverter LF and my 2kW air con wasn't able to start..after i went for 5kW LF inverter it was ok and over 2Amp for 48V system is too much it is over 100W ..yes it is typical for cheaper inverters. second thing i did notice they are using cheaper L or I core transformer..they are cheaper than toroidal transfoermers and have higher idle consumptions as well. but usually are pretty reliable. Another thing i think i didn't notice air vents on it..i think i did see only air vent on top side but only one side so not sure how it is.. Those fuses on main input are also OK - because if you would have problem there usually that part of inverter/charger is dead anyway..so that is fine.

[@OffGridandOutdoors]

Do you ever review the low frequency Growatts? Seems like that might be a good shoot out idea

[@mcsol473]

I own one, its nice capable of grid tie, can mix with grid if solar not sufficient so battery no need to be cicled or run it batteryless but just 2 problem 1. Standby consumption is about 250w so i recommend to use only at day when there enough sunlight 2. That "huge" transformer get so hot and the device hit 60c i dont know if that normal but for me is a little overtemp i cant get it stay at

[@badsamaritan8223]

I'd mount it to plywood, and then mount the plywood to the studs. Or you can just take a little weight off the anchors, and mount a 2x4 to the studs beneath the unit, so it's sitting on the 2x4 like a shelf, so that the anchor is merely holding the unit against the wall, rather than supporting the weight.

[@WillProwse]

That's literally what I said in the video. Did you not watch it? I said, use a thick piece of plywood. And I have multiple older videos using the 2x4 method. Are you new here? Really frustrating comments being posted today.

[@WillProwse]

This system was on the wall for 12 hours. I already have the lv5048 going back up today attached to both studs

[@mudslinger995]

Great Video, a suggestion would be to use UNI-Strut between the studs and mount the unit to it. Keep up the great work and channel

[@JasonCarmichael]

Emporia makes a 11 kw (48amp) charger. I have one. On my pair of LV6548s they will operate for about 25 minutes before both inverters overheat when pulling the full 48 amps to charge my car. I am looking to get the LVX6048WP. The main point of the LVX series is to back feed the grid.

[@melomanacejr]

Will should we consider heat and airflow in both indoor vs outdoor scenario’s. also consider max power quickest breakdown for R V users. Love you Will you are the most useful and down to earth with products and suggestions!

[@bernardthedisappointedowl6938]

My wife's takeaway from this video was that she thinks you're dating again because of that fancy T-shirt, ^oo^

[@robert4027]

Awesome review thanks for the honesty and time spent

[@JMaahs23]

Good, I see several people have mentioned horizontal 2X4s. That would be much safer I think.

[@WillProwse]

That would be dangerous. We mount to hardiboard. Because it's non combustible. 2x4 can catch on fire

[@JMaahs23]

@@WillProwse or behind the backerboard instead of plywood. But I see from other comments you've changed the setup. Another video loaded with information, thank you. When it finally comes time to do this it looks as if I'll have a lot of options between which units to use. The post you did about ground in North America is probably good to mention often.

[@yancymuu4977]

I have been experimenting with my own DIY low frequency inverter. My self wound 750 watt transformer is about 1/4 the size of their 6000 watt unit. I thinking that they skimped on the iron core resulting in the high idle current. My idle power is running about 8 watts.

[@forrestgossett]

You made your own? Do a video on it by any chance?

[@kevinkilkenny8158]

Yes those large lugged wires seem to be scarry close to the housing. I saw a lot of copper showing. You usually have some shrink tube on the lug.

[@chrisdervin5420]

You could also add a length of aluminium angle bolted to two of the stud wall timbers with slotted holes in the angle so that you can push it up under the base of the MPP.

[@ssoffshore5111]

Unistrut.

[@williamlabarre4755]

i would suggest 2x4's top and bottom that span studs and are bolted to them for mounting to. Sticks out a bit from wall but you can manage the attachment and loading better.

[@mochouinard]

FYI, you can get a Tesla Model S with the dual charger, which can draw up to 80amp at 240volt. So that could give you a 19200watt load. And tesla allow you to variate the amp usage, in the car, so you got a variable load at the same time.

[@vincent771]

Use a tig welder with a pedal. This application can give you a veritable amperage the further u press the pedal ... That would be so nice to see btw🤙

[@billjacobs8035]

Thanks Will 👍

[@jforsman10]

Thanks again for a great review of equipment!

[@larrylockwood]

The dead short potential on the battery terminals bridging across that case the way you set it up without the grommets is terrifying. I am sure you just did it temporarily for the test but I could anticipate someone doing it permanently and bad things happening when those leads get bumped.

[@WillProwse]

Yep, that's what I said in the video. It's awful.

[@McCuneWindandSolar]

Cool I have and MPPT 4048, I guess you can say old model. when I get back to working on my solar I'm going to use my old model as a portable power system, and I will have to get a few of these for my home.