1 Big Sub vs 2 Small Subs Final Thoughts SVS PB-1000 Dual

It's a long video, but there was a lot to it. Prior to this project I'd never heard quality subs in a dual configuration. Vv Click SHOW MORE vV
GAME CHANGING SUBWOOFERS:
www.subwoofer10...
I knew it was better, but the difference really surprised me. I'd had duals before in a weak sauce setup (cheaper, under-performing subs), and the benefit was not there, or maybe it was, but the weak performance of those subs drowned out any real benefit.
Any subwoofer on the Best Subwoofers page should be great in a dual configuration. I can always recommend better (which doesn't just mean more expensive), but I can't confidently recommend less. If I find cheaper subs that make the grade, I'll be all over it, but with what it takes to do it right, that's a tall order.
www.subwoofer10...
Special thanks to SVS for making this video possible, they have helped me answer a lot of questions through their support. This video and many others simply wouldn't exist if they hadn't sent out their subs for me to listen to. Additionally, the many forum contributors who all played a role through making their thoughts and opinions public. There are so many who are far more advanced than I am, and their efforts have made mine possible.
*****
Subwoofers should reproduce quality sound with authority throughout the humanly audible bass spectrum (20-100 hertz). Most do not.
Browse this channel and www.subwoofer101.com for layman's tech advice, product reviews, content reviews, and tips to make the most out of your setup.
It's OK to be new here, that's the whole point! Aside from this project, I am an industry outsider, so my perspective is from a consumer standpoint with an emphasis on value.
www.subwoofer10...
I use affiliate links to support this channel and the website, but my opinions are 100% my own. You can support this channel by visiting my Amazon store for little stuff like movies and big stuff like subs, speakers, amps, and TV's: www.amazon.com...
Subscribing, likes, comments, and shares all help a lot too!
Subwoofer 101 is the world's first SVS affiliate, so if you mention Subwoofer 101, it can help support this channel and ensure that I can keep utilizing SVS products for this website.
SVS Bill of Rights, one of the reasons I'm so comfortable as an affiliate: sub101.link/Bi...
Here is the setup at the time of upload:
Amplifier, same as mine (X2000), but updated for 4k and dual subwoofers: shrsl.com/?~bngf
Consider stepping up to an amp with preouts in case you want to get separate power amps later. The X2000 does not have them, I believe the X3200 does: shrsl.com/?~bngh
Provided on a demo basis by SVS:
Towers (not in this video): sub101.link/Pr...
Surrounds (not in this video): sub101.link/Sa...
Center (not in this video): sub101.link/Pr...
Dual Ported Subwoofers (in this video): sub101.link/PB...
Dual Ported favorite subwoofers (not in this video): sub101.link/PB...
Speaker wire: sub101.link/SP...
LG 4K 3D that I replaced previous Vizio with a Square Trade type warranty. Love the LG, some issues aside.
amzn.to/20gn2BV
Measurement Mic for use with Room EQ Wizard:
amzn.to/1XDWQlV
Room EQ Wizard (free, donations encouraged for the guy that created it-not me, use earplugs!):
www.roomeqwizar...
Subscribe for more videos like this, and feel free to share, comment, and ask questions.

[@dlloyd6300]

constructive criticism. Honestly not being an ass. You did a lot of rambling and wandered around in your topics. There was a lot of good information there but it gets lost. I would choose a few bullet points that you want to hit and write those down on a piece of paper, then limit your presentation to less than a minute, but at least 15 seconds per bullet point. Your message will be much more efficient as well as easier to retain as a listener. It also allows you to map your conversation so the topics can flow better, and in a logical order instead of haphazardly. Thanks for the vids!

[@CallMePaine]

Couldn't agree more. Great Vid by the way. Unlike most where they only bash about one brand.

[@jackp9589]

Jesus! 5 min of info stretch out so long my ears bled and i fell asleep

[@dossipdan9173]

Let me straigth, this video is a waste of time, you start and end the video with same level of information, even the guy doesn't know what his findings were....

[@Dirtydunton]

I find it very difficult to follow these videos

[@ross5506]

It's probably cause he knows so much on subs.

[@dbrodbro1]

I finally went dual subs and the sound stage is now complete. Why didn't I do it sooner. Thanks for the advice.

[@Subwoofer101]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@wrxsavvy]

i have the SVS PB13 Ultra and I cant explain how happy I am. Coming from many other subs I've finally found THE one. The room fills up nicely with bass and effortlessly!. Its hard to describe the feeling when the bass hits or rolls and you cant figure out where it is coming from. I have bass even when the volume is mid way which was very difficult for all the other subs I've owned.

[@Subwoofer101]

If the PB-13 Ultra can't scratch your itch, you're going to itch the rest of your life. That low volume performance is a result of the way they tune their subs. Without giving away any secrets, I'll just say their response curves aren't just pretty on paper. You have arguably the best subwoofer on the planet imho.

[@ycr_14]

Subwoofer 101 For the price of the PB-13 I can get 2 HSU 15 MK2, would this better than 1 ultra PB-13?

[@carlosoliveira-rc2xt]

prologxdbcr For most people, yes.

[@electropad]

Thanks for the dual subwoofer videos. I have set up 2 REL t-zero 6.5" dual subwoofers rather than a single 10 inch sub. It integrates very easily with my bookshelf speakers and now they sound like deep bass towers!

[@jeronunkoffunk9437]

Thank you for the thorough descriptions and review of the subwoofers, because I've been kicking around he idea of doing dual subs , ive always thought of concept of balance especially with smaller driver subs. I recently purchased a used Martin Logan dynamo 700w i don't think I reaches as low as those but for the size I was pleasantly surprised and decided I'd find a twin! To run with my old Theil CS 1.6's and magnepans

[@beribear7956]

Some good info here in between all the rambling. This review could be cut down to 6 min and not a whole 20min

[@Niftynexuss]

lol thats not how you make the youtube dolla bills :D

[@glockisaac5570]

Get to the point which is better???

[@MrFireblade74]

Just ordered my second sb1000 pro and cant wait to hear the difference!

[@JC-bl9bo]

I'm new to SVS but I'm thinking of adding a second PB-1000. The PB-1000 blows me away daily so a second will be my next stop. I will never own another brand sub than SVS. They are just awesome.

[@Subwoofer101]

That's a potent sub, isn't it? Yeah, a second one should give more headroom and more even, complete bass. I won't even review a sub unless I have 2, I think it's that important. They are impressive subs!

[@JC-bl9bo]

Thanks for the advice. I'm salivating at the idea of going two subs in my system. The PB-1000 really is an impressive sub, and for the price it could not be beat.

[@bobdonda]

I've been reading some reviews on subs from cheaper brands than SVS, a certain percentage of people complain about the electronics inside going bad after a couple years. So it occurred to me that two subs > one sub in that situation too, because if one sub dies on you, at least you have the other one. I'm still just getting into home theater stuff so I'm a one-sub guy for now, but it seems that a lot of experts are saying two subs is the ideal way to go if you're putting significant money into your setup. One day I'll have to give it a try, but for now a single SVS is pricey enough for my wallet.

[@Subwoofer101]

Having a backup sub is a perk I never considered! No matter how great a product is, there will be a certain amount of failures, it's how those failures are handled that really matters. Amp failure is the most common failure on powered subwoofers, which is why the 5 year warranty is really nice. Some companies do a shorter warranty for the amp/electronics for this very reason.

[@johnbrooks1429]

I recently purchased one Yamaha (10") NS-SW100 and loved the sound and clarity. But after a while I noticed a slight increase to the right surround and rear speakers, So I saw this piece and decided to buy another one to match! DAAAYYYYUUUMMM!!! After watching Dune over the weekend, I was afraid the sandworms were going to take out my house!!! Oh! Don't forget the foot pads by SVS a real life saver!!!=D

[@joescott701]

Still running a Yamaha YST SW 150 from 1998. Dual 8s one sealed box. Paid 300 for it and 20 years later it still works nice. I do want to upgrade to to svs or Klipsch. I demo ed some DEF Techs at BB magnolia today and I was impressed. Home theater is like a dog chasing his tail always wanting to upgrade.

[@NBC_NCO]

they say bass is unidirectional ...but having a single sub I still can tell where the bass comes from. My wife however does not notice. My friend has two subs and the bass is very well balanced .

[@Subwoofer101]

+Psycho Kill 2 is the key!

[@KosmicHRTRacingTeam]

This is a great video. I have been considering doing a second placement sub lately. Problem is that my primary sub is a unit I built (with some help from those that know as far as size of box based on the parameters of the drivers I am using). The sub uses (2) 12" very good TC sounds drivers that are no longer made in a large sealed enclosure and using a Velodyne SC-1250 subwoofer rack amp. Since the drivers aren't made any more and I really don't want to build another sub (took a ton of time and was actually not a cheap project) I am wondering what to do. I would imagine that to match the size (12") and style (forward firing in a sealed enclosure) would probably be fairly "safe" as far as matching sonic characteristics? I feel the sub and power I currently have provide plenty of bass for my set up, but have been hearing so much about adding a second placement in a different location, that even if it isn't a super high end sub, will provide an even better listening experience.

[@LoveMyKleeKai]

It's kinda hard to gather the cash for dual pb16s though :( I'm starting with one hopefully in future I can get another. I dont do debt so credit isn't an option for me

[@kez2252]

Do the dual PB-1000's have as much punch/slam as the HSU? I recently bought a pb-3000 and was very underwhelmed. Coming from a cheap bic f12. Never having heard an SVS sub in person, went and bought a pb1k to compare. Long story short, after now 4 weeks of playing around with each sub extensively, think just discovered today that my room is causing issues, and because of that the pb1k is easier to place and getting better sound. However, I know it can't match the output potential of the pb3k. So, no debating whether to go dual pb1k, dual pb2k, or break the bank and buy another pb3k (with the latter knowing I'll have to invest time and money to adjust for room issues). I'm just afraid that the pb1k's will run out of headroom, and/or not offer that chest slam I'm looking for. But, their size make them more optimal for my room. Also, wonder if it'll be harder to overcome room issues since pb1k's have no dsp. Would greatly appreciate your insight, since you now have experience with so many of their models. Help! Lol

[@SushiMonkey]

I have a Sony 8 inch subwoofer. And I just bought a klipsch 12 inch subwoofer. Is it OK to run them both for dual subs?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Nicholai Courtenay Check out the video I put up today about mixing subwoofers.

[@kingcarcas1349]

TBH running a crappy second sub is usually a hindrance

[@juliobello4561]

Nicholai Courtenay if both have their own amp yes

[@richardjackson9083]

yes but you will need to do a lot of work to get them to play together right

[@mclement052164]

Sure! I run a Klipsch, Martin Logan and a Definitive Technology sub running in my living room. 2 up front near the main towers, and 1 behind my couch. It took me forever to get it dialed in, where it's not too boomy, and blends perfectly with the 7 other speakers. I probably could be ok with 2, but it's a 20×30 room, and all the subs peak around 600 watts, so, none of them really have to work too hard. I'd say go with what you got and patiently tinker with your settings. If you can't dial it in, try another sub. Like so many others, you can't go wrong with an SVS, but I love my little Martin Logan. It can be configured to be downward or forward firing. I have it forward firing into the back of my cloth couch. So I can really FEEL the peaks, and the 2 front subs are downward firing. In a different room with a different layout and furniture- who knows? Have fun with it!

[@michaelwoodard1947]

Hi, love your videos. I have a question...and it seems you are reluctant to recommend specific brands, but I thought I would ask. I just bought a new pair of LS-50 anniversary editions, and NAD-368 Integrated, NAD-316BEE, Pro-ject Debut carbon TT, and 32" Pangea stands (filled with sand). This is my best 'beer budget' music-only system (have separate system for video). The LS-50's left me wanting for bass, so I added a Klipsch SW-10 I had sitting around (ported 10) and it boomed or 'moo-ed' a lot. I ordered and RSL 10 and it is better, but even after some experimentation with placement, xover, etc., I'm not sure it's a good match as it has a little detectable 'hangover' to me. Corner placement of either the RSL or Klipsch even with low 60-70hz xover point loaded the room to that corner and sucked the bass-soundstage off toward that corner, detectably. I'm on a budget of about $500. I was thinking about sending the RSL back and getting the SVS SB-1000. What are your thoughts on a good match for the LS-50 given that budget in a 16x14 room with vaulted ceilings?? Sorry for the length.

[@manoroid1]

I was thinking of going with a single pb 2000 but this video is changing my mind. If i go with the dual pb 1000's will i still get that feeling in the bones? Will duals go as low as 17hz like a single pb 2000? If so dual pb1000's it will be.

[@sherinrobb]

Hi, I am planning to buy one pb 1000 to combine with my sunfire SDS12. Will it be a good combo?.Do you have any suggestions?.

[@stupidmaster4866]

Greetings! from Poland.After i watch your videos i decise to buy 2 pb 1000.WOW it was great shot they are worth every penny.I spend only 800 $ for two in local shop:)Thanks

[@yuriythebest]

wow congrants and I'm really jealous! here in ukraine it's around 800$ for 1 speaker, you are lucky! enjoy the subs:)

[@porschedriver06]

Good video, thanks for the tips! Having been a long time, from the very early days of SVS (cylindrical moidels) I know full well what great engineering they've put into their products to get the accolades that are justified up to now currently. Impressive customer service as you've noted. Also, know about HSU as well going way back to the VTF1 days.. Great products too and cannot really go wrong with either. I will say I had a CT-100 and while I am a HUGE Velodyne fan, that little guy is not in a fair fight. I can see him sweating sitting next to those much more capable subs but that Velo was marketed to entry level audio enthusiast just starting out or on a budget and could be found at the local home audio stores in metro areas. Its really tailored for small rooms or a bedroom system just to supplant bass for smaller bookshelves dropping off at 55hz or so where it would come in and do "just ok" to about like you said, 35hz.. I am using dual REL 201E's for not having had MUCH larger subs (18" Velo) that just were an eyesore for most living rooms to some ppl.. I think you're doing well by going with the dual SVS for stereo bass ESP. if you could calibrate them both independently through your processor. That HSU is HUGE though man! :) But like you mentioned, even having dual PB's, you'll get much better even response in room, but little or no deeper response. Ever try stacking scenario in one corner??

[@Subwoofer101]

Check out the new sub in the video I'm publishing today...I'll get back to you on the rest...

[@romavictor1811]

Too much talking! Where's the actual testing?

[@stevew3978]

These white guys really like to talk. Take a look at these KZbin review videos. Almost all the excessively long, and boring, talking heavy reviews are done by white guys.

[@romavictor1811]

Steve W yup that's pretty much how it is....they talk more or as much as women do sometimes....sheeeshhhh

[@Subwoofer101]

I don't play anything due to copyright. Playing content that belongs to others may be common on KZbin, but it's a good way to lose your channel. I'm sure to get a claim from this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJu1oJqVlrOhgKs You'll both love it, I don't say a word. Short too, and I was still mostly white that day.

[@RjTheTrigun]

Subwoofer 101 classic comeback, what does supposed race have to do with anything. Ignorance is an equal opportunity employer that's for sure🙄. Thanks once again for your recommendations. What's interesting is no matter what is played you cannot honestly know what it truly sounds like because you would have to hear it in person or see objective measurements.

[@vignyk7706]

Nice job...what you suggest 2 bic america 200pl sub or single klipsch R-115SW?

[@mikethames3072]

Thanks SVS! I have a PC-2000 and have been loving it. Before I settled I listed to several different ones. I listed to Aperion and Outlaw Audio. Both of these were excellent as well but for me an my room the PB-2000 was slightly better so i decided to swap it for the PC-2000 for looks since it was supposed to acoustically match the PB-2000. I spoke with SVS many times and they were a pleasure to work with. Thanks for this Video. I was really thinking about the HSU but they didn't offer free two way shipping so it was hard for me to not bit the bullet and test it but i've been extremely satisfied.

[@Subwoofer101]

+Mike Thames SVS is known for their customer service. I have the PB-2000's now for review and they are ridiculously good.

[@AverageNiceGuy]

Cool info, thanks. I just installed an SVS sb-1000, and I am very impressed. It sounds like I will need to tickle my plans for a second one in the future. My first subwoofer was a BIC America F12, it was described to be the least expensive subwoofer that is not junk. And I have found that to be true, but it just falls short of being as sweet and musical as the SVS SB-1000.

[@gregcampbell1729]

AverageNiceGuy I have 2 f12 right now. I’m thinking about going with 2 svs 2000’s. Would it be noticeably better?

[@AverageNiceGuy]

@@gregcampbell1729 For music,... Especially fine.. and well recorded music... Yes... The SVS sealed subwoofers' accuracy is a very wonderful thing. But, if you are most interested in rumbling your house bigly, during a movie, I'm not sure if it would be so fantastic for the price. BIC is a very good Rumble box (bar room fight) , SVS sealed subwoofers are like a beautiful strong woman... Tender and convincing...

[@AverageNiceGuy]

Oh, I did the sb1000, cuz it was available in white, because I live with a beautiful strong Hungarian lady that wanted the decor to match the SVS Ultra bookshelves :-)

[@yuriythebest]

Thank you so much for this! I think 2x PB 1000 it is :) 2 questions: what is the best placement - I see you have them L and R of the tv? ( sorry if this was already discussed), also - if I use them with the Jamo S 809 5.0 speakers, will it be a good fit / will it work? thanks!

[@nunosantos165]

good i would like to know your opinion two pb-1000 or one pb-2000pro or so at most one pb-3000 congratulations on your videos

[@tite732]

I purchased two Klipsch R-12SWs from Amazon this week and trying to return them, Amazon won’t let me and is telling me to contact Klipsch. I’m calling them tomorrow since they are closed on the weekend. I have never been so frustrated with a purchase In my like. It’s literally been less than a week and they won’t let me return the subs. I screwed up and didn’t realize that the SVS1000 was the same price as the two Klipsch but way better quality. I really want to buy the SVS now and get the dual later.

[@JingoLoBa57]

I really appreciate the effort and rigor that you gone to here. Trying different options and configurations helps to define the boundaries of effective sub choice. One thing please, can you list say your final recommendations in ranked order. I think sometimes I couldn't understand cos you speak rather quickly. And like a great speaker system a strong accent, lol. Consider an 'in summary' closing section in print and in voice modes. This will help us to understand your bottom line recommendations. Thanks for the serious effort you go to make this video.

[@Subwoofer101]

+JingoLoBa57 Excellent point. I'm almost uncomfortable recommending a numbered list at this particular point, but I can see that being a good goal. I always feel good about recommending SVS, they are a pleasure to work with and the Bill of Rights is outstanding, it makes it less of a risk. And they were kind enough to make this video possible by sending out the subs for me to do this video, and I get why, they have well placed confidence. Hard to go wrong with the PB-2000's, and the PB-1000's are great if you can't quite pull that off. Duals for sure, a single is "incomplete", no matter how good it is. Check out the www.subwoofer101.com website, I go into more depth, and am working on adding more.

[@Subwoofer101]

+JingoLoBa57 I have to ask, what kind of accent do I have? Not that I doubt having one, I'm just curious what people think it is.

[@JingoLoBa57]

Lol...thick, sorry.

[@JingoLoBa57]

Its alright, where you come people understand you, this is the same for everyone...

[@TysonHook-22-]

Do you have any thoughts on the BIC F12 sub? I'm considering buying two F12s now which would be about $600 shipped to me or one SVS PB - 1000 which would be nearly $800 shipped to me with plans of getting a second in the future

[@Subwoofer101]

2 PB-1000's go for $950 unless you're outside of the USA, I think you're thinking of the PB-2000. I'd definitely try for dual PB-1000's. Next level, and powerful at depth. The BIC, based on the graphs I've seen, is pretty typical, getting quieter the deeper it goes. The PB-1000's don't start getting quieter until about 21 hertz in my room, still kicking at 19 hertz. It's a different world.

[@TysonHook-22-]

Yeah im Canadian, unfortunately SVS get marked up quite a bit do to exchange rates and whatever and theirs only a few retailers that sell them over here... so theirs not a lot of competitive pricing and from my knowledge SVS subs don't go on sale much, but I've done some more research and decided I may as well bite the bullet and go with an SVS or 2. Since in the long run they'll be less likely to leave me wanting to upgrade to something bigger and better down the road. they'll satisfy my hungry for bass longer then there competition (if you can even call many other subs competition for them haha)

[@TysonHook-22-]

I've got a follow question for you, The sub or subs will be going in a bedroom setup for now, consisting of a Denon E300 AVR, a set of Polk TSX 220B bookshelf speakers, and a TSX 250C center and soon to be added are some Kanto Ben rears (great valued coaxial sealed box speakers)... Its a fairly small room 8x8x8ft (about 512cu ft) with a little null to the right side of my setup that's about 4x5x8ft (160cu ft)... altogether the rooms about 672 cubic ft, but oddly shaped with the null and has some setup limits do to the entrance door, a closet, and general space constraints... My question is would you recommend a SVS SB1000 or SB2000?... Keeping in mind that if I go with a SB1000, I'd be more likely to run a dual sub setup if I end up feeling the need for more bass after getting a single SB1000 to start off with, and the system could eventually be moved into a medium sized living room environment. I'm leaning towards the SB2000 as I feel it will have less limitations in the long run, but may be a bit over kill for me right now in my current room setup, but I also feel it would be enough that I wouldn't have any need at all for a 2nd SB2000, unless it becomes a living room setup and even then a single SB 2000 might actually be all I'd need personally for a medium sized living room setup.... Also worth noting that I live in an apt but I plan to build a bass trap or two and some acoustic wall panels using roxul in the coming months to help tame some room acoustics. and as a Canadian customer a SVS SB1000 costs $790 shipped, SB2000 costs $1106 shipped to me from electronicsforless.ca which is one of the vary few authorized SVS dealers in Canada... The Canadian market subwoofer mark ups are ridiculous, but it is what it is, unfortunately and other competitive brands to SVS like Outlaw, Hsu, etc aren't even sold in Canada at all to my knowledge, so they're even move expensive to get here due to international shipping rates/fees... Anyways sorry for writting you an essay to read haha just wanted to give you as much details and info as possible, so you could make the most informed opinion for me on my current subwoofer dilemma that I'm facing and thanks a lot for the original response, your advice is always greatly appreciated.

[@sunnyvalejedi]

A little rambley, but I like it! Plenty of tech info, with a little folksy wisdom... I'm in a 2300ft3 rectangular room with all AV on one 1/2 of the room. My optimal placement for my PB-1000 is front right corner, 9ft away. I'm thinking of adding a 2nd sub in the diagonal side (beside the couch), as I have no other placement options, and SVS recommends that position. Think a PB-2000 or PB12-NSD would pair ok with the PB-1000 for a little more sub-23hz grunt, or play it safe with a 2nd PB-1000?

[@socksumi]

Subwoofers are THE most difficult speakers to design properly. To achieve bass that is extended, tight, tuneful and even across the various bass ranges is no small accomplishment. I prefer the multiple subs approach as they provide more consistent bass response everywhere in the room. Single subs are much more prone to room acoustics problems like standing waves and reinforcements and can sound entirely different depending on your listening position. A DSP controller with at least two (or preferably four) subs spaced apart is for me the way to go.

[@Subwoofer101]

I agree. I call the standing wave effect "Swiss Cheese Bass", because I went back to the single for a week while waiting for the next set of subs to arrive. It was as though parts of the music were just missing from several frequencies, like little holes in the music, some big holes some small, so the term Swiss Cheese Bass was born. I won't recommend a subwoofer unless it is DSP tuned from the factory. It's the only way to go in my opinion.

[@addonisryan]

For a long time I've been a fan of running dual subs and until recently had been running a pair of Definitive Technology Prosub 600s which unfortunately were just not right for my room, they struggled to fill the room and despite being rated down to 22hz, they never quite seemed to produce anything near that region,maybe 40hz at best. i finally found a great deal on 2 Klipsch Synergy Sub 12s via Buydig. I was considering an inexpensive single 15" subwoofer before these but decided the Prosub 600s won't keep up so it would be better to replace them both with 2 equally matched,way more efficient,possibly even larger subs. The Sub 12s are everything I've been seeking, loud, house shaking bass, which is clean, tight, accurate and musical.I would love to own a HSU VTF15 like yours but it's out of my price range and as you've confirmed,it is best to run dual subs.Great video by the way. I like how you-explained everything and you've confirmed all that I thoughtt was true in the process.Keep doing what you're doing.BTTW, My subs are rated down to 24HZ but they most definitely do 20HZ with style and authority!

[@Subwoofer101]

Dual subs are incredibly important to be able to hear everything. Factory ratings can be misleading for sure, that's one premise of the channel. Very few subs truly hit the 20 hertz mark with real authority, most start getting quieter around 30-40 hertz like you said. The PB-1000's are the most economical sub I know of for getting there. Some subs may still produce sound that low, but there's a difference, particularly in the response curve. You can check out my video on "what you lose with high quality subwoofers" for more on that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4PZnHmCZah9pq8 All subwoofers drivers are naturally peaky, loud at 60-80 hertz, much quieter at 20-40 hertz. Very few subwoofers buck that trend, and actually deliver clean bass that gets a little louder as it goes deeper. It's certainly a different experience all together, and a LOT of fun. The PB-1000's can deliver the goods when most typical 15" subs are running out of breath at depth. I put together a list of subs that I would spend my own money on, it's not a long list: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/ One of my frustrations is the expense of good bass. It's just not cheap, and I really wish it were more accessible. Even more frustrating is when someone buy's a single higher end sub, only to realize they need a second equally expensive sub. I also agree with you 100% that subs should be matched for the best performance. Thanks for the feedback!

[@russellgault5402]

I have a r-12sw and I plan on adding a sw-450 will that be a good combo? I'm new to this and really need an informed opinion and you seem​ to know your stuff! Thanks in advance!!

[@Subwoofer101]

Welcome to the channel! The goal of my channel is to save my viewers time and make things a little easier. While not a terrible subwoofer, it's not something I would put on my list of subwoofers that I would actually buy: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/ I've tried mixing subs, arguably some of the best in the world, and ran into problems. I actually measure performance in room (Room Eq Wizard, which I've done videos on), and seem to get cancellations that aren't present with matched subs. Matched dual subs are just MUCH easier. Very few subwoofers deliver the goods where it counts, way down low. Most subs start to taper off (getting quieter as they go deeper) somewhere between 30-40 hertz, and looking at the specs, the SW-450 is no different. Most people assume it's their ears! In dramatic contrast, the subs on the list will be STRONG and balanced all the way down to the thresholds of human hearing. It's a completely different, and far more satisfying experience. I would start with either the PB-1000's or the PB-2000's. I'm the first ever SVS affiliate, something I pursued due to their stellar performance. Their subs make up the majority of "The List", so it made sense. You can go factory direct through my links, and it supports this channel. The good part for you is the Bill of Rights, which gives 45 days to listen, free shipping (even if you return it), and a 1 year full price trade in. So dual PB-1000's could be traded up at full retail less shipping for better subs, if budget allowed and you felt the need. They also have a pretty killer Outlet where you can get used gear with the exact same benefits as new, including the trade up. There's nothing quite like it. The point about saving time is that you could go out and get another regular sub, but you'll eventually want to upgrade to one of the great subs. You might be tempted to go even bigger, but the PB-1000's or PB-2000's will be FAR more satisfying than what you've been used to. They are a reasonable priced entry point to the same type of quality bass that can be found in the PB-16 Ultra, an award winning reference subwoofer that is shockingly good. Look up my candle video when you get the chance. Short but sweet. The PB-1000's drop to 21 hertz before starting to taper off, and remain clearly audible to 19 hertz. The PB-2000's are strong to 14 hertz in room, below my own hearing limit of 17 hertz, so they are true "full range" subs. This page also shows what a 28 hertz subwoofer looks like on a graph in comparison to these subs: www.subwoofer101.com/pb-1000-vs-pb-2000/ SVS product pages with reviews: sub101.link/PB-1000 sub101.link/PB-2000 I am a nut about this stuff, but it's a LOT of fun. You can look through my videos to hopefully take you from novice to being more informed than some people in the home theater business. I try to answer all of my comments, and SVS provides free support to my viewers, even if they aren't customers. Oh wait, I hope you weren't looking for a short answer! =)

[@russellgault5402]

Subwoofer 101 thanks. I'll ditch the 450 all together and sick with the one I have now for a while.

[@Subwoofer101]

No problem, next level bass is worth the wait.

[@joedinatale5913]

Russell Gault ==}

[@tylerwainner9922]

Have you tried the Sunfire sds 10 or 12 sub? I would be interested in how they compare to the svs pb 1000. I know they may not go as deep but they would be worth looking and possibly as a cheaper alternative to the svs?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Tyler Wainner Lack of depth is an absolute disqualifyer for me. I have not heard the SDS 10/12, but I suspect it would be similar to the DefTech Supercube, which was the last "common" subwoofer I will hopefully ever buy. The PB1000 is where "next level" starts. Deep, undeniably powerful bass to 21 hertz and still clearly audible to 19 hertz. See my website article PB-1000 VS PB-2000 for graphs next to a common 10" subwoofer. True depth is a much more satisfying experience in my opinion.

[@iwasatoad]

I won't brand mention but I run two 12s and a higher powered 8 these are not self powered and I have 2 amps for the subs and I have not herd a better set up yet great response from 20hz to 250hz with out the 8 it was missing the kick or solid hit sound but with out the 12s it missed the carrying notes granted dual eq is in use but all in all less than $1000 in and sounds good at low volume to max volume all though I can't be in the room with it much over half.

[@Subwoofer101]

+iwasatoad I have no problem with brand mentions. The PB-1000s, which are the smallest, least expensive subs I recommend, are capable of causing hearing damage in a dual configuration when pushed, so I believe you. If you're subs are just as loud at 25 hertz as they are at 60 hertz, I'd like to know what they are. Most of the time, subs really start to trail off from 30-50 hertz, so I'm always looking for subs that buck that trend and hit 20hertz with true authority.

[@iwasatoad]

I do half to say at the point of what i have done it is more pro audio set up and you would half to build your own cabinets ( work of art when matching volume displacement ). Most will not think of it like i did as these are car audio subs with house hold amp . So before i go much farther into detail none of the 3 subs are open played. and you will half to have a basic understanding of electronics to get what i have done. So here it goes i run two power acoustik STW-12 in standard ported box style setup with a mid box mounted four inch tube leading to a middle chamber that leads to external port. so think of it as two boxes joined by a box half the size in the middle that the outer two boxes are ported into that is then ported into open air. Sounds complex but this is done for pressure reasons. the eight inch ( for now am changing ) P1S4-8 Sealed Box half the cubic inch size of what it should be in again for pressure reasons only want it for kick ( changing to a 10 same style set up ) Now to the electronic fun. and with out going into massive detail any run of the mill Pre-amp eq will work just keep in mind you get what you pay for in terms of how it limits the power output witch will be massively effected after this point. With Little research on amplifier voltage out put and how wattage is figured you will see why my amps are low wattage but big push ( research how the electromagnet works in speakers ) Amps are Dual modified Soundstream PCA 2.760 Picasso. To sum this up they unlike normal amplifiers they run 48 volt output not 24. This was more the expensive part as getting a half decent 120v to 12v convert that would not blow on every not is a pain to cure it i run two D8 batteries on a 150 amp charger with four used ultracaps. I did this as i kept blowing inverters. Now granted had i intended for this to be in a house from the start i would have just bought and reworked the inside of house hold amplifiers. But i built all this for a 93 ford mustang convertible that i got annoyed with driving with the top down at 70mph and only hearing a snare and high end noise. After two months in three sets of 200 amp alternators and five sets of trunk latch bolts i took it out as it was nice at 70mph but if not it was overpowering. So now it sits in a basement paired with four 15 inch woofers and 6 high cones..... i know this is more out side stage type set up but i love loud music but it has to be clear or there is no point I also do voice work on the side for toy cash and comes in handy for play back and editing

[@humanx187]

Wow SVS is an amazing company.

[@Subwoofer101]

I agree!

[@rico313z]

so do i really have to spend 800+ for a subwoofer for optimum sound what are some cheaper options?

[@Subwoofer101]

The cheapest option that I feel comfortable recommending is the bit.ly/PB-1000 (affiliate link) which can be found from time to time in the SVS outlet bit.ly/OutletSVS (affiliate link) which still includes all of the Bill of Rights protections, including free shipping even if you return it within the 45 day trial, 1 year upgrade trade in upgrade at price paid (plus shipping in that case), full 5 year warranty, etc... For optimum bass, this is the minimum I would suggest, but in a dual configuration($950). So truly, $950 is the minimum entry for what I consider to be quality bass. You'll understand what I'm talking about when you hear such a thing. It's next level, and to me not worth saving a couple hundred dollars to get something that can't dig down deep. I would love to find a $300 sub that I can get behind, but no luck yet, and knowing what I know, I don't expect such a thing anytime soon.

[@rico313z]

Thanks For the Info!

[@meyer097able]

Rico NextLevel yes you can definitely get a decent sub for under $800 ...

[@rico313z]

david meyer any Examples?

[@meyer097able]

All depends the size of your room and what type music your into... Just Google then look up here on KZbin and find right sub that matches your needs... :-?

[@johncanavera3052]

I'm going to add a second sub to my home theater system. I currently have a Paradigm 10" sub currently and found another online. Will my Denon 5.1 AVR auto detect the second sub? I'm going to run a splitter to connect the two. Thanks

[@Subwoofer101]

+John Canavera It won't "detect" a second sub, but it will see both subs as 1 unit. This actually allows the room correction to work better than it can with only a single sub.

[@johncanavera3052]

Thank you for the ideas! Love the channel.

[@Badzazz]

I'm currently in the process of setting up a home entertainment/theater system. I only have two front towers for now as i am deciding what sub/s to get? should i go single or dual? my room is around 21'x21'x9' but it's just temporary...might move all of it in the basement which would be alot smaller (10'x11'x8') compared to the present room...as soon as i get a go signal from the commander-in-chief aka the wife...would dual pb-1000 be enough? Thank you!

[@Subwoofer101]

Dual all the way. The PB-1000's would be plenty for the smaller room and should even do the trick in the larger room if you listen at "sane" levels. The PB-2000's will handle it all a little better, going a little deeper and having more headroom, but the PB-1000's are impressive and satisfying. All of my SVS affiliate links (sub101.link/PB-1000) take you factory direct, which means you for sure get the 1 year trade up, so if you want to upgrade within a year, you get full credit (less shipping) towards the PB-2000's or any greater subwoofer they carry. I became the first SVS affiliate about a year after this video I think. Very good company.

[@Badzazz]

Thanks for the reply! I tried your link but its redirecting me to a find a dealer coz i don't live in the US. Will it still credit your link even if i purchase from a local dealer? I really want the pb-2000 but i can't go dual right away. (sigh) Decisions decisions...

[@Subwoofer101]

I won't get credit outside the US. I do have some affiliate links for other countries through Amazon, so that might work, it just depends which country it is. I'm pretty sure you won't get the 1 year trade up since you are outside of the USA, but it's worth checking out. If you can get them through your country's Amazon site, and that's something you want to do, let me know which country and I'll get you a link. If you don't get the trade up, I would start with one PB-2000 and get the second one when you can. The PB-2000's are a sweet spot, I recommend them the most.

[@Badzazz]

i'm from Canada.

[@deanmindock3680]

I think the Rythmik L22 subs (two 12" subs in each enclosure) are a hidden gem. Very quick and go really deep. The servo amps (one for each driver) serve out articulate and clear bass.

[@pedecia]

Hi, I have only one sub output on my Receiver. Could I split the output with a Y RCA splitter and send it to both subs? Any downside in doing that? Thanks.

[@mareli82]

yes, you just split the lfe signal, having 2 lfe plugs is more or less just an internal splitter, you might gain the ability to adjust the subs individually in regards to audysiy .

[@pedecia]

Tore Nyland thanks. I connected them last week and sound awesome....

[@KevykevMovies]

Very well explained iam a subwoofer fanatic an this is how ppl should really explain the different types, sounds and etc well done

[@Subwoofer101]

+Casey Musiq Thank you very much! It's really almost like a secret that only the most determined people get to benefit from. I had so many headaches from trying to research this stuff, so I figured I'd try and make the search a little easier. Thanks for watching!

[@noavgjoe]

I just picked up two PB12 NSD's and found love again! I still have a Polk DSW Pro 660wi (Don't underestimate it) and a Bic Pl200 (great for the price) now playing in the rear and the sound is crazy. I love being enveloped in Bass. SVS is some 'other level' sh*t!

[@Subwoofer101]

Other level, exactly. Nice to have something down in the acoustic "basement"! Congratulations! Try running just the 2 svs, then all four. Haven't run 4 yet, but wonder whether non matching subs would cloud the sound? I know a 10" and a 15" sounded off to me.

[@noavgjoe]

+Subwoofer 101 Indeed! I love options when it comes to HT and 2 channel listening. My living room was filled with different subs too but since the SVS purchase Ive since sold one and the other three are now on CL waiting on a new home.

[@bertjedekat]

What about a spl150 15, inch in combination with a 10 inch klipsch sub or is 12inch sub must?

[@chrisfuzy]

I have a 2002 Velodyne SPL 12 BV that needs repair (grumbling noise) looks like repair with shipping will be $300 but new outlet subwoofer PB - 2000 will be $729 with 5 yr warranty- what subwoofer would you replace Velodyne with? Can you repair Velodyne for less than $300 out there?

[@toyota4runner632]

How about placing dual sub at the rear next to the couch facing the tv? Will it sounds as good as placing them on the front

[@TE-ppgg]

Is it good idea to mix between port sub and seal sub? such as SB13 ultra + Pb 1000

[@Subwoofer101]

I really like to have the subs identical. 2 mixed subs are usually better than a single, but you can get cancellations. So single

[@SM0R3S]

I own a YST-SW315 since 2004, I would like to go dual subs. In anyone''s opinion would it be better to sell that one and get PB-1000 or get another YST-SW315?

[@Subwoofer101]

The PB-1000 is a whole different animal. It goes much deeper. Ideally, you want 2 of those. 2 SW315's would sound better than a single, but the response would still be what I consider to be shallow. You can run the PB-1000 with the SW315, but I would get a second PB-1000 as soon as possible. You want your subs to be matched. When you compare the 2, I think you'll find the PB-1000 to be next level.

[@SM0R3S]

Thank you for your opinion.

[@brad3d]

If you can find a 2nd used YST-SW315, for $100 or so bucks, it will make a nice difference, and worth the money, but they wont be in the SVS league.

[@KapinKrunch]

What receiver do you recommend? I'm probably getting 2 svs pb 1000 subs and either svs or klipsch speakers. My receiver/amp budget maxes out at $1500

[@dlloyd6300]

+Aaron Mcroodle (KapinKrunch) the best Yamaha that you can buy (RX-A1050), I have always loved their tonal quality. OR the Outlaw 5000 amp $600, and the best receiver you can get with preamp outputs for the $900 left (RX-A850). As long as you are fine with 5.1, or you can run the additional channels off of the receiver and leave the heavy lifting channels to the outlaw amp.

[@KapinKrunch]

I bought the Marantz sr7009 on Friday

[@KapinKrunch]

I didn't care about it not being hdcp 2.2 for 4K video

[@KapinKrunch]

I just got a 1080p OLED so I'm not looking to go into 4K anytime soon

[@KapinKrunch]

The plan is to upgrade to a full Atmos setup with 7.2, so I will probably be getting an amp to use with pre out on the Marantz

[@JoshHaley]

Which is the better way to go, (2) PB-2000s or (1) PB-4000?

[@Subwoofer101]

This video says it all. In short, my choice would be dual PB-2000's. The PB-4000 is amazing, but I think duals are that important. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4LdYYmYqsp8e6c

[@JoshHaley]

Thank you! I promise I will watch all of your videos before my next question. OK, kinda promise. :)

[@Beghty27]

Single PB2000 or dual SB12 nsd? Each option would run the same price at $800 right now.

[@Subwoofer101]

I like ported subs a lot, but you may prefer sealed. I've put together a decision chart here: www.subwoofer101.com/ported-vs-sealed/ If sealed sound like what you want, then yes, definitely Dual SB-12 NSD. I wasn't aware that these were being sold on Amazon: amzn.to/2gd024H (affiliate link) they sold out pretty quick at SVS. If you like sealed subs, they are an awesome deal. If you're more inclined to have ported, dual bit.ly/PB-1000 would be my choice in that price range. SVS is giving one away to celebrate my 100th video, so that might be worth entering. I announce the winner next week. Contest ends on the 6th.

[@velocci6666]

Do you think 2 sb-1000 would be as good as 1 pb2000 for movies in a 3000+ cubic foot room?

[@Subwoofer101]

Kind of apples to oranges. I'd be more inclined to do 2 PB-1000's over a single PB-2000, but here's my write up on ported vs sealed: www.subwoofer101.com/ported-vs-sealed/

[@michaelwright1602]

I own two PB-1000 subs, they rattle my house, the dishes in the kitchen rattle. For the money, well worth the price. I would rather have two of these than one PB-2000. You said SB-1000, I would go PB, open port, much better in my book. Sealed are usually more restrained, and like sub 101 has stated, they can be fatiguing.

[@manoroid1]

I was thinking of going with a single pb 2000 but this video is changing my mind. If i go with the dual pb 1000's will i still get that feeling in the bones? Will duals go as low as 17hz like a single pb 2000? If so dual pb1000's it will be. REPLY

[@awwbollocksthen1359]

Thanks for the video, I was just wondering if you ever had side fighting subs if so what would you recommend the best location for them in a small 12 by 13 ft room. Not only are you very articulate you're able to explain things in layman's terms

[@Subwoofer101]

Thanks! I prefer to be "down stream" of the subwoofer cones, with the cones pointing to the main listening area. The SVS Ultra Towers have side firing drivers, which affect timing in a positive way, really adding to the bass, even when set to "Small" and 90 hertz. I like it in that capacity. That said, side firing, or even down firing changes the timing of the sub slightly (compensated with room correction), and essentially reflecting the bass off of another surface before reaching your ears. Reflection happens regardless, but I'd rather have a direct line of sight. How much does that matter? Is it perceptible by most people? Not sure, but I prefer front firing over down firing, mostly because of my noisy wood floor. I couldn't tell you whether it's the noisy floor alone, or the reflecting of the sound waves as well. As far as where to place your subs, it depends on the sub itself, if you have two, etc... I like running mine inside of the towers, partially because my room won't allow true corner loading for both subs, and outside of the towers would narrow my front stage (towers too close together). If they can be corner loaded on the front sound stage wall (the wall where your main left, right, and center are) try that, if not, I would locate them like my set up. If you aren't running two, strongly consider going that route. Makes a big difference, and even more so with deep bass subs: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/

[@DonLee480]

The finish looks nice on the HSU sub. That is the matte black? Looks like piano finish but I don't see that option on their website?

[@Subwoofer101]

Unless they changed it for the MK2, I'm pretty sure it's their same satin black finish.

[@blueribb99]

You never mentioned room acoustics. I have two listening rooms in my home. The first floor uses Klipsch Cornwalls and a pair of HSU VTF-2 MK III's. My basement semi-finished man-cave has Cerwin Vega VS-15's and a pair of Velodyne CT-150's. The sound from both rooms is totally different. The first floor system is very boxy / boomy sounding with a lot of bass-induced vibrations and wall-creaking resonations. My basement man-cave has none of those negative characteristics. When I went from a single to dual subs in my man-cave, that was the best thing I could have done. A single sub produces areas of too-much or too-little bass. In my case, a single sub offered almost no bass at the listening sweet spot. Adding the second sub not only fixed that issue 100%, it added a much smoother total bass response.

[@Subwoofer101]

Good point! I didn't really mention room acoustics because I think no matter how good or how bad the acoustics are, duals will be an improvement over a single, which as you point out will either produce too much or not enough, depending on where you're sitting and the frequency. I call that "Swiss Cheese Bass" kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmeYg5uth7GIg5I You could download Room Eq Wizard if you haven't already and see what's happening in your first floor. Are you running any sort of isolation on the VTF-2's? If they have flexible rubber feet, that would count. I know my VTF-15 came with isolation feet, and SVS has their isolation feet that can be used on most subs with screw on feet: bit.ly/IsolationFeet (affiliate link) One other thing you could try is turning the subs on their sides, making them front firing rather than down firing. In that orientation, you can also put a pillow or some sort of substantial cushion (like a couch cushion) under them while front firing, and see if that helps. If you are getting a bunch of energy transferred into the floor, that could certainly cause some problems like you're describing. You could also try swapping subs, I'm guessing your man cave has a solid floor?

[@blueribb99]

I have hard rubber furniture coasters under my HSU subs cone feet which float my subs on top of my carpeting to un-couple them from the floor. That eliminated some of the room vibrations but not all. My first floor listening room is much smaller than my basement man-cave, so the walls amplify the bass and make it really boomy compared to my basement man-cave with concrete floors. Being married means there's no re-arranging the room or turning subs on their sides. I have to live with what I have. Velodyne is a much older company than SVS, HSU and most other sub manufacturers. Velodyne makes two lines of subs. Their home line has really shrunk compared to what they offered 10-20 years ago. They also offer some really high-end 15 & 18" subs too. Note: The Auto-Power On feature on my HSU's never worked correctly, so I was told to leave the subs on all the time. My older Velodyne CT-150's Auto-Power On feature works perfectly. I put together my man-cave system using eBay and Craigslist. I found some vintage mint-condition equipment for a fraction of what it costs new. I believe in ultra efficient main speakers so that my AVR's have enough power to play at concert levels. Both Klipsch and Cerwin Vega have over a 100db sensitivity rating.

[@Subwoofer101]

I hear you, WAF is an issue. My system would sound much better if I could move my chair forward about 2-3 feet, but it's a nonstarter. Bad for the room flow, which is true. Sometime, when she's away, if you have some time and you feel up for it, tilt them on their side and see if there's a difference. Just be sure to put them back!! I'm just looking for feedback, as I'm going to be doing a "down firing vs front firing" video soon, and can't lay the PC-2000's on their side without getting the fabric dirty. Having the PB-2000's is a great analog, but not a perfect one.

[@FirstLast-kr1fw]

+Subwoofer 101 So many speakers. Makes your house look messy. Can I help you clear up the mess and ask for a speaker donation ;)

[@Subwoofer101]

A Good Samaritan!

[@gregcampbell1729]

My wife and I sit right next to each other in the same spot and we never have people over. Should I go with (2) svs 2000 or (1) REL ht 1508 predator?

[@frankvee]

Get two REL 1205 and you'll be happy.

[@JaredSchumaier]

@@frankvee I have a 16 x 14 room (250 square ft), will two 1205s be too much for this room?

[@mdvener]

It makes sense that you have seperation of channels in your room, have a receiver with the sub out, 2 or 4 channel output to match the same speaker area, or more, for total area sound control. The cost? Not in my life time. 5.1 or 7.1 is now 5.2 or. 5.4 , and 7 would be the equivalent. Welll,,,, we can all dream.

[@allanbenthien8519]

what do you want in your set up are you reviewing or asking for advice im confused

[@rmabgoi]

Thank you for the video. I am a bass lover... the foundation of music. I would like to know what is your appreciation about the Rel Storm III. Mark Levinson 27.5 is coming to play with it. Greetings.

[@Subwoofer101]

+rmabgoi I suspect you would notice a nice improvement with anything in the SVS line, preferably in a dual setup. Rel is certainly well made, not cheap by any means. SVS is just next level stuff. Just plugged in a pair of PB-2000's 2 days ago. I LOVE them. That Mark Levinson Amp looks nice! I agree, if the bass is wrong, it just isn't right. Dual subs really complete the presentation in a way that no single sub can. Cheers!

[@rmabgoi]

+Subwoofer 101 I love this Rel sub. I might buy another one that i saw days ago (750eur, when new 1,995eur rosewood). I wonder if the SVS PB 13 is better than the Rel Studio III, musically speaking. Grateful for the attention. Ps: i am very, very curious about SVS subs since 2 years ago !... you never know.

[@xyanide1986]

As a music guy I never understood why people want to deal with single subs, I get this.

[@Subwoofer101]

+spookanide I went back to a single for about a week. So many holes in the response, like Swiss cheese bass, at no fault of the sub.

[@yarsivad000.5]

Was the one with the finicky on off switch...Polk?

[@MushroomKingdoom]

I just bought a 12" subwoofer. That size in order to get a wide range (more deeper frequency) and also sealed to give better acuracy. It is not an SQ subwoofer. It is an alpine 250 rms. Imfeeding it from a car amplifier powered pc power supply (450 watts) to reach around 100 rms (half power) because 100 rms are more than enough for a movie or not loud music. That is my story hehe.

[@jeffsmith6133]

Could you please review the Pc2000 compared to the Pb2000? The pc is rated for lower extension to 17hz

[@Subwoofer101]

+Brandon Brandon Very close in performance, it were me it would be more of a question of personal style.

[@cero815]

I have a question for you, if you don't mind. A Teufel S10000 is indicated with 115dB SPL while a Klipsch R115SW can achieve 122 on the paper. This is a lot of difference - how much does it mean? This sounds like a much superior Klipsch at lower power - regarding the fact, we are talking about 15" chassis, it looks like two of the Klipsch would blast the Teufel right out of the window and we are on topic again: 2 small subs vs 1 big. I somehow cannot imagine ...

[@Subwoofer101]

I'm unfamiliar with both subwoofers, meaning I haven't personally heard them, but I wouldn't purchase either one. Neither appears has a DSP, something I believe to be essential for a good subwoofer. Max SPL is only part of the story. How well the sub performs and how flat the response is makes quite a difference in the overall experience. A subwoofer from "The List" will sound much deeper and have a more even response than the subs you mentioned. It's a different world, and all of those subs are next level. Max SPL is important, but shouldn't be the deciding factor. www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/ To the point of 2 vs 1, if you listen to a frequency sweep, found on my playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLMZU06y9stN5z0pyKkaF-frNPcigSyHi1 You will notice that with a single subwoofer, as the frequency drops under 80 hertz, the sound will vary, getting both louder and quieter as the frequency drops, pulsing in and out. This is the standing wave effect. If you have a basic subwoofer, the sound will also start to taper off between 30-50 hertz usually. With any subwoofer on the list in a dual configuration properly setup, the frequency sweep will be much more even all the way down to 20 hertz. Music will sound fuller, and movies will be much more convincing. You will be able to hear all of the bass, where with just a single you will have Swiss Cheese Bass, lots of holes in the response.

[@cero815]

Thank you for your quick answer. I won't totally agree with you. The need of a dsp in your sub is not 100% given, since avrs coming with audyssey multeq deliver quite good results. xt32 is said to be even better. If you combine different lfe effects and your avr does not truely support x.2 formats (for example if we are talking about a splitted output) you should use an integrated or a plug-in dsp at least in one lfe-part. A dsp is an improvement, but it is absoultely not essential for a subwoofer to be good. Or do you complain about your speakers for being passive? :-) I know the sweeping effect, thank you. Afaik you can avoid a second woofer if you are lucky and can place it well and plug a dsp in if not included.

[@Subwoofer101]

+cero815 Audyssey is a great option, but if you're suggesting it will make a non dsp sub sound as good as an SVS, I'd have to heartily disagree. I've tried it, no comparison. Still breathless under 30 hertz, while the SVS are just clearing their throats. A dsp, no matter how wonderful it is, cannot overcome the standing wave effect with a single subwoofer. Even if it gets close, it will be overdriving the sub trying to overcome dead spots, which also makes it crazy loud in other seating positions in the room. Too messy. Dual subs resolve it in a very tidy way. You may not believe me, but experiencing it with matched subs I recommend would be all you need to be convinced.

[@OMG_BeCkY]

If I buy a second sub, would I be using twice the electricity as I am with just one or would I turn the volume down on each one and essentially use the same amount in total?

[@Subwoofer101]

These subs don't use much electricity. With strong capacitance, and an efficient amp, they will barely draw 20-30 watts working really hard. Just over 10 watts or so idle, .5 watts on standby. Sound occurs in pulses, so it's not like a space heater that draws constant power. If these were class A amps, they would draw a LOT more power, but these are very efficient class D. It's amazing how little power they consume. You will reduce the power a little to compensate for the added output, but you might consume 80-90% more power as dual vs a single. If you are still concerned about power, ported subs are more efficient than sealed. You need more amp power in a sealed to deliver the same impact as a ported. If you are interested in seeing how things work out, you can get a kill-a-watt meter, it shows you how much power a device is using. Eye opening.

[@OMG_BeCkY]

@@Subwoofer101 Interesting info, thanks! So I don't need to worry about blowing any fuses with two subs then? : P

[@Subwoofer101]

Not even with dual PB-16 Ultras! 1,500 watts RMS and 5,000 watts peak. EACH. So 3,000 watts RMS and 10,000 watts peak power for duals!! Less than 100 watts combined of constant draw making some SERIOUS FREAKING NOISE!!! Still less than 35 watts draw idle, combined! Only 1 watt combined in standby. Capacitance is a beautiful thing! Not all sub amps are like this. A $200 sub with a different type of amp could draw more power, but with much less effective power to driver. All very interesting stuff.

[@OMG_BeCkY]

@@Subwoofer101 So in a way it makes sense to pay more for a quality sub up front because it'll help to offset the higher cost via electricity savings? Haha

[@Subwoofer101]

😆😂🤣 There might be more exciting reasons, but sure!!

[@juanbaclavab]

What about B&W Subs? The ASW610 packs a good punch tho

[@Subwoofer101]

+DON'T EVEN TALK TO ME ANYMORE, SERIOUSLY! The ASW610 is not super powerful, but the room gain might get it down to 20 hertz. Room gain affects response differently between ported and sealed. www.subwoofer101.com/ported-vs-sealed/ For the money, I'd go with the SB-2000's if I were going sealed. It's DSP controlled, has a bigger driver and amp. But I'm more of a ported guy, B&W all appear to be sealed.

[@carlosoliveira-rc2xt]

The ASW 610 is fine if you watch movies in your closet. Too costly for performance offered.

[@nobodynobody1235]

After about 4.5 years this video was posted, here's what i want to say : 1) You mentioned about the HSU being huge, you made it sounded like that's a negative. To be fair, the huge size is due to the larger driver and ported. If you look at what you own right now, i think it's SVS PB3000 and i seen you tried SVS PB16 Ultra, you never sounded like the size is a negative point...... 2) Agree, dual is the way to go and i owned PB1000 dual which i just sold them 2 days ago. What i found missing in this video is to talk about the room size that you are listening the home theater system. From my experience, this is important to raise the bar from good to great experience. If you are in a large listening room (eg close to 4000 cubic ft), you need to get those larger subs and make them dual in order to pressurize the room enough to get those big sound impact to your chest. PB1000 did good in my 1.5 years of usage, they produced good sound but never impactful enough. By the way, great video content and because of your video, I went with dual PB1000 in my initial set up :)

[@chagog470]

I have a rel subwoofer it’s an amazing high accuracy high end subwoofer speaker. It doesn’t punch u in the chest though so I just Svs. Pb16 ultra. I’m going to use both. How would u configure. I noticed ur subs are in the front??

[@Subwoofer101]

Yeah, I keep my subs where they are out of necessity. It's a mixed use room, so it's the only placement that works. Luckily, dual subs make it a non issue when adjusted properly. See my Bass Hack video series to see everything I do to optimize. Mixing subs is not ideal. Better than a single? Yes. But I have had the PB-16 Ultra as a single, tried mixing it with several other subs, and was honestly a little underwhelmed. It wasn't until I got the second PB-16 Ultra in that the true gravity of what that sub is all about hit me like a tone of bricks. When mixed with other subs, it's almost like the weaker sub sucks the performance out of the better sub. Very weird, but that's the best way I can describe it. Check out this video released today: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o56bpZyXlLyGeas The Outlet sale starts Monday at Midnight Eastern time. Might be able to find a smoking deal on a second PB-16 Ultra, and then remove the Rel from the equation to keep the bass "audibly tidy".

[@jimconard877]

Nice Job explaining sub woofer adjustments to speaker size. Your channel is very informative keep up the good work! A suggestion would be to talk a little more on about subwoofer efficiency. If you look into raw drivers at a place like parts express you will see the lower they play the less efficient they are. I glanced on line to see if I could find efficiency numbers on your 10s and found none. Take a 86db speaker and a 92db to raise 3db we must double the power . that said a 92db speaker using 500 watts of power the 86db would need 2000 watts of power. People with large theater rooms need totally different equipment to fill there theater with sound than a person with a small living room.

[@Subwoofer101]

+Jim Conard Thanks! SVS uses proprietary drivers for their subs. I imagine with their reputation they aren't keen to release any potential secrets of their designs. The PB-1000's will fill a pretty decent sized space, but the PB-2000's are a safer bet for larger rooms or insane listening levels. Really hard to run out of headroom and still keep your hearing with any Dual SVS ported sub, assuming you aren't in a gymnasium. My room is 24 x 24, 1/3 of which is kitchen. Had plenty of gas left in the tank.

[@kingcarcas1349]

My second SB-1000 is on the way!

[@Subwoofer101]

Whoo hoo!!

[@Marzen216]

While I appreciate your enthusiasm, you might try commentating with the use of notes. Much easier to map out where you want to go and stay on point. I'm glad you had an epiphany on using dual subs, that's a great moment when you realize how much better it sounds. I had a similar response the first time I experienced Butt Kickers in a home theater. The tactile response was amazing. Good luck with your channel!

[@Subwoofer101]

+Marzen I've heard that about the butt kickers, I'll probably give them a shot at some point. My channel certainly hasn't grown because of my presentation skills, lol. My health forces me to keep it super simple. That said, I try to use more notes than I used to. I've learned a lot since starting this channel, but the dual subwoofer thing is vital to good bass. Going backwards to a single subwoofer for a week really made it clear. Too much is missing with a single.

[@foreverjjun]

My recommendation is this. Get 1 Big Sub. Then add mid sub as budget allows later.

[@Subwoofer101]

Given my experience, I couldn't disagree more. Mixing subs causes cancellations and the bass favors the weaker sub. Did this exact scenario, PB-16 Ultra with PB-2000. Both great subs, but a bad combination. Keep them the same exact model for the best results.

[@surprizeattack4477]

SVS 16 ultra or 13 ultra? what should I get?

[@carlosoliveira-rc2xt]

Surprize Attack Ultra 16.

[@rickscholte]

You should try the Rel Quake mk2. Its a little 8 inch subwoofer but its really, REALLY impressiv for its seize and does real 25hrtz. Tell me what you guys thinks about the Rel brand or the Rel Quake mk2 on its own. Sorry for the bad English grammer....im dutch

[@Subwoofer101]

+rick scholte No problem, English is not an easy language! I have not heard Rel, and I have not seen any graphs either. While not impossible, I don't imagine it belongs on The List: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/ There are particular earmarks I look for in a sub. DSP, copious power, no bad manners, etc... While not impossible, it's really difficult to get an 8" driver to sound like the subs on the list without being really expensive. The PB-1000 was my one rule breaker at 10", normally 12" is the minimum, but it demolished that rule. I also have a rule of 20 hertz comfortably perceived. Thanks for the comment!

[@rickscholte]

+Subwoofer 101 i know what you mean, bump up in the 40hz range and everybody thinks they play heavy low bass. But i promise, if you ever have the opportunity to test a Rel sub (especially the Rel Quake mk2) you'll be suprised what it will do in a small/medium sized room. i know it cant compeet with the SVS subs etc. but in comparison to other 8/10 inch subs i listend to (most of them big brands and not specialist in subs) this blows them all away in nice, clean, warm and deep bass. thanks for your comment and i enjoy your vids! keep up the work. greetings from The Netherlands

[@rickscholte]

Subwoofer 101 hifi-advice.com/REL-quakeII-vs-strataIII-review.html this is a little review about the sub.

[@nataflet]

Thanks for the video, i am looking for pb1000 for a while and still can't decide between pb1000 and pb2000. I can upgrade later and won't ever get two pb2000 so single pb1000 is better for a start. You get more detail on highs using X3200. Using X4200 you get even more details (AL32 helps here, you hear music layers clearer), It's not only about power and features. They don't increase the transformer size and that's all, they add more chips and more stuff. Also bass is more tighter bass using more expensive receiver, voice becomes more clearer even at low and very low volumes. Also had X4100 and is not a big difference from X3100, I kept 3100 because I had a very bad experience on movies using 4100. I needed to increase front by 3 db, lower center by -12 db, increase surround by 6 dB, XT32 sucks in this way. And 80% of the sound was coming from the center. Rain, thunder was coming from the fronts. Voice was lost in the background and when I increase the volume, I don't understand it. My ear gets tired after watching 10 minutes on a movie. XT32 sucks again, AL32 helps on higher frequencies, not XT32. X4100 was a nice product because I could upgrade to 9.1 but that was a bad mistake I made.

[@Subwoofer101]

+GraveNoX Thanks for the feedback on the receivers. One thing is to always check your settings after any sort of room EQ. As good as they are, they can really muck things up too if you're not paying attention. Another thing to consider is going dual PB-1000's from their refurbished stock, for close to the same as a single PB-2000. With refurbished stock on Amazon, I wouldn't recommend it because you can't get an aftermarket warranty, but SVS makes no distinction as far as their Bill of Rights is concerned. Same full 5 year warranty, no shipping, etc... You even have the ability to do the trade in with refurbished, though it would be at the refurbished price. If you know dual PB-2000's are off the table, then these make a lot of sense. Thanks for the feedback!

[@Kevroa]

what sub do you think is the best for under $400?

[@Subwoofer101]

I hate to say this, but it's really tough to find a sub I like under $500. There are basic things I look for, and I usually don't see those things (like DSP) until you hit about $500-$600. I wish I had better news. It's worth the extra $100 to get a great sub in my opinion. SVS has an outlet where they sell returned products, and it cycles quite a bit as inventory changes, so it's a good idea to check back. What's cool about their outlet is that it's just like buying new from them. Same full 5 year warranty, same return policy, and the ability to upgrade within a year to a better model at FULL price. So if you found a PB-1000 (which is the least expensive sub I recommend) for $450, and a year later you wanted to upgrade to a brand new PB-2000, your trade in value would be $450. Not too shabby. Here's their outlet (affiliate link): bit.ly/OutletSVS If I ever find a sub that I would buy under $500, you can bet I'll talk about it, this hobby isn't cheap.

[@QKiet-oc8rw]

Subwoofer 101 hg

[@billywizz766]

What is the name of your big 15inch juggernaut sub, please ?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Bill Wizz No problem, it's a HSU VTF-15h (MK-1)

[@billywizz766]

Many thanks.

[@officejedi7465]

At least 2 minimum, but 4 subs is recommended by THX ..Two smaller subs will beat one larger sub with smoother bass response with proper sub placement. Once you calculate the problem frequencies in the room (there is a formula and spreadsheet for this), proper placement along perpendicular walls where those harmonic frequencies occur (center, 1/4, 1/3), will give you the best bass response, pushing up the lower dips in the standing wave problem frequencies and eliminating the "high" and "low" pressure zones where there is a build up of too much base ...or too little (seating placement is key in relation to this). Although hard to do, 1 sub in the center (in wall) of each wall (so 4 total and with reverse phase set on opposing walls) will give you the best bass response you can get by treating the 1st frequency harmonic standing wave that is the strongest problem frequency for any room, thus giving the smoothest base response for the strongest frequencies. Or 2 in the center for the strongest axial frequency and the other 2 1/4 or 1/3 along the other walls to treat the tangential or oblique frequencies.Sub placement should be calculated properly to treat the problem harmonic frequencies (axial, tangential, and oblique) of the room. Each room/wall has its own problem frequency harmonics based on the length of the wall and size of the room.But if you do only have one sub, it should be on the wall where the LCR front channel speakers are located. Center if possible, then 1/4 of the way along the wall, or 1/3 if 1/4 is not possible to treat those problem frequencies and where the dips in the standing waves occur.A lot of people use the "throw the sub in the corner" school of thought when it comes to sub placement, but that is the worst and last place you want to put it.Full range towers should also be set to small in receiver calibration settings with an 80Hz cutover to allow the sub to handle all 80Hz and lower L/C/R/SL/SR/SB channel frequencies as well as the LFE channel.

[@Subwoofer101]

Pretty much sums it up! I'm not a fan of corner loading either. 1 sub on each wall works great for dedicated rooms (so the research and opinions suggest, haven't tried it) but for people like me with mixed use rooms, it's just not in the cards. Thanks for the comment!

[@ThatCrazyRCGuy67]

You made a really good video, thanks for letting people know, for me i have 1 sub, the PSA Triax, its a killer sub, with the 3 drivers i cant locate were the bass is coming from.

[@Subwoofer101]

+Josh JP Now see, you aren't playing around! That's a serious sub!

[@ThatCrazyRCGuy67]

+Subwoofer 101 Thanks alot.

[@Aqilla2msc]

what about dual svs sb3000 vs single sb16 ultra?

[@taseti4803]

The single SB 16 Ultra is on another level as compared to 2 SB 3000'S. From my recent experience, I had 4 SB 3000'S and I upgraded them to 3 SB 16 Ultras. SVS shipped one sub a week earlier than the other two. The single SB 16 is far superior to 4 sb 3000'S. The bass goes through your body and the chest thump the bass gives you is un real. The 3000's can't do any of that. You just hear the bass with the 3000's for the most part, and occasionally feel some vibrations if you have the subs behind you.

[@Aqilla2msc]

@@taseti4803 finaly i got single sb4000 replacing pb2000 pro, its because sb16 out of stock and need a months to get here, the different is huge from both, more air presure from sb4000 more than enought to fill my room I think i need another one in the future 😁

[@Cblan1224]

So....dual pb 1000s over a single pb 2000 pro?

[@DaisyHead666]

well this dude has a shit ton of subwoofers

[@Subwoofer101]

3 of the best flagships in the house right now. VTF-15, Outlaw Ultra-X13, and PB-16 Ultra. Just happens to be the case at the moment, the channel is growing. www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/

[@thedarklord5922]

whats your thoughts on 6.5inch subs.

[@Subwoofer101]

+the dark lord Takes a lot to make them sound as good as a 12, but not impossible. Lot's of power, multiple drivers, and heavy EQ, and it might sound good. Haven't heard one that I was wild about, but I haven't actively looked either. I think in general, the smaller the driver, the harder it is to get sub 30 performance.

[@Packer1290]

That HSU is a monster!

[@JordanKL1]

Subwoofer 101, Could you name a few songs with anything meaningful in the 20-30hz range? You say you couldn't fault the PB1000 yet you claim that bigger would still be better. Why though? Honest questions. I'd love some song examples and to hear your reasoning.

[@allanbenthien8519]

harmon kardon did you say clipping at 85 watts I just cant get it to sound good

[@cp070476]

I've got 3 subs in my cinema system.. Sunfire XTEQ 12 wired to right channel.. Velodyne SPL1200R wired to left channel.. And Velodyne DD18+ for LFE. Sounds Superb.

[@Subwoofer101]

You're not playing around! Have you tried running them all on a mono signal vs left and right? I know there would be some time domain issues to get them all in phase, but I am curious if you'd tried it.

[@cp070476]

No i have not tried that.. I have set them to the same spl level using speaker test tone and a spl level meter.. As for phase there all set at 0.The front channel subs are set to 150hz. The DD18+ set to bypass. They make a huge difference to front channel effects.

[@DarthHater100]

I wonder if the drop out he is describing is just bc of poor room acoustics. I've never experienced drop out at certain frequencies with my single subwoofer, nor does it get boomy, or muddy depending on where you are in the room. It's just tight and punchy and powerful everywhere in the room. I happen to have a really dead room, no dry wall or windows in the basement here. I bet it is just some kind of destructive interference from reflections. . . maybe some room treatments and base traps are an option over a second sub, but it's just an idea based on me not having a sub problem in my particular room, and I think the lack of reflective surfaces is the reason why. Though I guess that's not as fun as getting a second subwoofer, which sounds like it fixes the problem.

[@Subwoofer101]

+DarthHater100 Unless you have a room devoid of physics laws, you have dead spots and peaks like everyone else with single subwoofers. Standing waves cause these peaks and nulls. Rooms can make it worse for sure, but duals iron out the room by interfering with each other's waves. The standing waves change with frequency. A single sub, no matter how good it is, will have what I call Swiss cheese bass, little holes in the sound. You don't know it's missing until you hear it with properly set up duals. What kind of sub are we talking about here? This videos shows how the frequency changes the location of Modes and Nodes (peaks and dead spots) kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4O3g5uYrJmJjaM

[@DarthHater100]

+Subwoofer 101 My sub is nothing special, a Paradigm PW-2200, $1500 range. But my room isn't too big, maybe 13 by 15. . . . Like I said, the room and acoustic treatments make the room dead in terms of reflections. Don't you need reflections to get destructive interference? I'm not saying there are no reflections, and I didn't mean to say _absolutely_ everywhere in the room, just everywhere you would sit. I've been in rooms that are all drywall and windows and the sub can be very sensitive. . .you can lean forward in your chair a few feet and you hear a drop out, and the 'Swiss cheese' base is actually quite audible. But if your room is small, your listening area narrow, and your acoustics good, you can get good results. I'm not trying to say there's anything wrong with a second sub, it is probably the best choice, but you can go a long way with better acoustics. You don't know what you're missing until you hear a room with good acoustics.

[@Subwoofer101]

+DarthHater100 Putting it together now. Your towers have powered subs, right? That will help with the bass wave interaction, reducing nulls. You already have multiple subs! Room acoustics do a lot for sure, but getting the standing waves to interact evens it out, even in lower amounts. It's a tricky concept, even more so when you factor in the Large Vs Small settings we discussed on the other video. Your comments have been very helpful to me. For a lot of people with mixed use rooms like me who can't get away with egg crates on the wall, having duals solves a lot of problems. The good news? Neither of us is crazy, with your powered subs in the towers I imagine you have very little swiss cheese effect.

[@DarthHater100]

+Subwoofer 101 Not so fast though, I'm running the towers above 80Hz, so I dont think they count as subwoofers. . . I'm still crazy lol

[@Subwoofer101]

+DarthHater100 If you turn off your sub (not on the avr, on the sub itself) and leave everything else the same, when you run a low frequency sweep, when does the tone disappear? I still hear the tone well below the crossover, just not as strong. Again, I have an older AVR, so I'm curious what you find.

[@luigimartinez1748]

what do u think about bic acoustech pl 200?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Luigi Martinez The subs I recommend are here: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/ I have a pretty strict standard for subs, and only list what I would consider if my own money was involved. Not to pick on Bic, but it lacks a DSP and strong performance at depth. For the price, this is not surprising or unique.

[@acehighflyer123]

+Subwoofer 101 Except for the fact that it pretty much smashes anything within 50 dollars of it, to include Polk etc.....and you pretty much have to spend over double the money to beat it. For those of us not running individual test tones and SPL meters this is one of the best for under 330 dollars. Yes I know this thing does not cover the entire LFE spectrum. I think all of us are aware that it drops off hard after 20-25 hertz, its kinda not the point. Some of the same talent you extol, Dr HSU helped design this sub. While I respect your integrity and passion there is always a best in every price range, a use case and to me spending 1000 dollars on a non acoustic treated room for an amazeballs sub is a complete waste of money. At any decent volume you will just tear your room apart. Say over 400 watts RMS. I absolutely cannot stand rattles etc, drives me crazy. Adding an insanely awesome sub means so much more than just putting your credit card number in the order form. Its like adding more power to your car, it cascades into other portions of your setup until you have to do a ground up build. Any room is the chassis of your audio and it never suits to add more power than the chassis can handle. My assessment of the PL 200 is that its more than enough for most and not enough for a few, those demanding the full definition of a sub, which is obviously completely fine. Not many of us have a room bigger than 20x20 so two PL 200s are plenty. That puts you at 500w rms and 2000 peak performance. Plus not that it matters nearly as much, but honestly all the subs in this video, with the exception your your complete monster baby HSU 15 are anywhere near the neighborhood of good looking or aesthetically pleasing. Cheer man www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/1430622-bic-pl-200-review-first-impressions-anyways.html

[@luigimartinez1748]

+acehighflyer123 hey thanks for the reply Ive already owned one but I'm debating on buying a 2nd or 2 totally different subs but I think I'm going to get a 2nd bic

[@Subwoofer101]

+acehighflyer123 One thing that bums me out is breaking the bad news about the expense of good bass. You can "get by" on dual $200 subs, and it will certainly sound better than a single $200 sub. Is there a dramatic difference between any $200 sub and a PB-1000 or any other sub on the list? Yup. Is it worth it, even in an acoustically horrible room? Absolutely, that's exactly the position I'm in, and my living room hasn't fallen apart just yet. I too hate rattles, and did a video on reducing noise. Max SPL is NOT my goal, in fact I enjoy low listening levels a lot, along with higher levels for movies. I get uncomfortable before the subs reach their limits, and that's a happy place to be. The only reason I picked up a measurement mic is because of this channel, otherwise I'm not a freak about it, so I get your point. I can't imagine myself with 8 subs either, but I've learned enough to never say never. Think of it this way: you can buy a guitar at the same place you buy groceries and lawnmowers pretty cheap, or you can get a real guitar. While they will both "play", the real guitar will sound better in almost every fair scenario. Can everyone afford a real guitar? No, but for those who really love to play guitar, the mart store version, even with it's amazing value, isn't quite good enough. I don't know jack about guitars, but this is how I feel about subs. There is a threshold when things get really good, and I wish it was cheaper. The PL-200 offers a lot for the money, no doubt. Does it offer enough that I would spend my money on it? I'd be as excited as Clapton or any other artist would be to buy a new $50 guitar. It's not snobbery, it's just an expensive reality, good stuff isn't cheap, which frustrates me just as much as you. Your perspective changes when you hear the difference.

[@Subwoofer101]

+Luigi Martinez If it's at all an option, consider trying one PB-1000. You have 45 days to return it, which SVS is very good about, it's not a hassle. If you do return it, you get a full refund with no shipping or restocking fees. It would cost you nothing if you didn't like it. SVS realizes that it's a big leap to buy a sub you've never heard, so they make it super easy to try. I'm betting that like most others, you'd put your current sub on craigslist and order another PB-1000 when you could. Their outlet subs are a little cheaper and offer the exact same warranty and return policy as new, which is pretty unique. If nothing else, at least you'd hear what the difference is for yourself.

[@jedi8189]

I'm after a rel q400e... so hard to find one these days

[@allaboutbeats882]

+jedi yes they are from 2009 ill try to look for one for u

[@allaboutbeats882]

+jedi sorry from 2003

[@jedi8189]

+all about beats that would be awesome :D

[@allaboutbeats882]

is that ok

[@TheSteppenwolf666]

+jedi - don't but the new Rels. They are truly terrible. I made the mistake of wasting almost two grand on a S5 SHO

[@TwinShadowX]

10:49 Yes, RSL Speedwoofer 10E Subwoofer

[@WalkandGrindwithJV]

I see two SVS PB-1000 subs in my future!!! Thanks for the info! #DualSubs

[@williambrantley8621]

Just got my second pb1000, man!!!! Do it!! It’s a Big difference. You’re gonna truly enjoy it

[@awwbollocksthen1359]

"Keep the videos coming" . Obviously I'm pretty new at this but reading through the replies I get the impression the objective is to get the hertz as low as possible on the subs while maintaining a good sound,? Can anybody tell me if you move your subs do you have to do a recalibration, if so how far do you think you are able to move them with getting away with it.?. Help and advice most needed

[@Subwoofer101]

Any further than about a foot to the left or right, and I would recalibrate just to be thorough. If the sub is moved more than 8" closer or further, same advice. You have changed the timing of the speaker. The Distance setting is basically timing. If you have one speaker 10 feet away, and another speaker 6 feet away, the room correction sets the distance accordingly. The speaker furthest away will get the sound first, with the other speakers slightly delayed so that every speaker sound hits you at the exact same time. Not having this right sounds "off" and garbled. The exception is the Distance Hack, where after you calibrate, you add about 4 feet to the sub, which reduces cancellations. Super valuable when running dual subs, which I highly recommend. Also, be mindful of the room correction microphone placement. For example, with Denon, you aren't supposed to take a sample further than 2 feet from the first sample, regardless of how far apart your seats are. I used to put the microphone in every seat, way too far apart, and the sound was considerably worse than when I grouped the samples closer together. The first sample is the most important.

[@Subwoofer101]

And yes, the response curve of the subwoofer makes a big difference on how deep the sub sounds. Most subs get quieter as they go deeper, making the lower frequencies very hard to hear. The subs on my list are 180 degrees from the norm, getting a little louder as they go deeper. This actually matches your hearing better, because the deeper the bass goes (lower frequency, hertz) the harder it is for the human ear to hear it. If the subwoofer gets a little louder as it goes deeper, it actually sounds perfectly flat. There are some frequency test videos on my Subwoofer test playlist. It shows the frequency bring played on screen, so you can see what each frequency sounds like, and hear whether your sub gets louder or quieter as it goes deeper. The subs on my Best Subwoofers list all have a deeper sound then most other subs. Going dual is important. kzbin.info/aero/PLMZU06y9stN5z0pyKkaF-frNPcigSyHi1

[@allanbenthien8519]

what I think could be happening but what might not be happening

[@hiboost2453]

is it good to get 2 big ones

[@richardjackson9083]

yes get the same two subs

[@agostonberko]

PB-1000 vs PB-2000 vs SB-2000 ?

[@Subwoofer101]

Stay tuned...

[@HFIntegrale]

PB-2000 - For rooms larger than 3000cu/ft SB-2000 - For rooms smaller than 3000cu/ft If you go dual go with the SB

[@redleg32002000]

@@HFIntegrale I know this is an older video but do you still recommend the sb2000 for duals?

[@HFIntegrale]

@@redleg32002000 - Yes. Though after much debate I went with 2 of these (they were discontinued Nov 2017) rbhsound.com/i12e.php 2 x SB2000 properly calibrated, will be an unstoppable monster :)

[@xMine1003x]

What is the right Subwoofer? Look like an Eminence Lab

[@Subwoofer101]

+xMine1003x That's a Hsu VTF-15h MK1.

[@vsighi]

THX recommends getting the biggest subwoofer that your living space and budget will allow. In the world of THX Certified speaker systems, a 12-inch or 2×10-inch subwoofers is a minimum requirement. My 12" THX Monolith it’s enough...but depends of your budget 2 subs may be a good idea?

[@Subwoofer101]

Another 12" Monolith would be a good idea. It's not just about output, it's about being able to hear all of the bass. Pretty much impossible with a single due to the standing wave causing Swiss Cheese Bass. The Monolith subs are candidates for "the list", just need to get my ears on them to confirm. I'm unsure about their depth of presentation, though I think they will be good, but otherwise they appear to be solid subs.

[@vsighi]

@@Subwoofer101an I ask since you do a lot of reviews: Do I still need the second sub when I/we have massive front spekeres ? I have the JBL Studio 590 and they are punchy! JBL 590 / Audio Specifications Nominal Impedance 6 ohms Crossover Frequencies 1.5kHz Sensitivity (2.83V@1m) 92dB Frequency Response 35Hz-40kHz