#1 DO IT YOURSELF HOW TO CUT A HIGH COMPRESSION SQUISH BAND HEAD FOR THE YAMAHA BLASTER!

Cutting a high compression,squish band,hemi head for the yamaha blaster!

[@darrencurry08]

i live in Northern Ireland would you be able to do this for me ?, what does this all change on your motor apart from more power ? can you still run it on the same petrol ?

[@felipesantillan4832]

do you still do the heads and do you still do them for the same price?

[@franciscorios2129]

How much would it cost I live en Puerto Rico if so how much for

[@bontyhuntr77]

Not to ask a stupid question but how did you mount it square on the lathe? I mounted my head on a lathe using a threaded rod through the spark plug hole but it was not square to the lathe and was actually off about .030", it seemed to me that the hole was angled toward the front of the head.

[@felipesantillan4832]

the reason why I'm asking is because I'm rebuilding the bottom end of mine and when I get done with that I was gonna see if you still do the heads so you can do mine because I don't have the right tools to do it

[@adzythepwcblokeinaustralia5467]

What is the dome volume to start with ? I don’t believe the head has enough thickness to take that much off and still be reliable, especially an air cooled head .

[@Joeak74]

I would have to check my notes to find the cc's of the uncut head. Its been a while. Actually the head can be cut several times if needed. I made multiple cut away models to see the thickness of the cast material. They can be cut multiple times without question. No believing required. :) You are not just removing material to reduce the cc volume, you are actually re-chambering it into a entirely different shape. Its the shape and squish band width and squish band distance from the piston domed that make the magic happen. Just removing material from a stock head will do nothing but promote detonation. I've made MANY of these over the years, and have had zero issues with them. Biggest bang for the buck! No re-jetting required.

[@joelong119]

Ever get to check those notes and find out the volume of the stock head? I’m also interested. Furthermore, have you successfully run these motors on 93 octane with this modification, or do you find the need for race fuel?

[@rideordie2736]

@@joelong119 I can do it for you as well

[@IGoProEVERYTHING]

how much would you charge?

[@djmystery7235]

Do I need to do anything with the jugs or can I do just this

[@Joeak74]

You can do just the head if you desire. It makes a big difference! It makes even a bigger difference when you port the cylinder too. Both of these actions, both porting the cylinder and re-chambering the head will make 30+ HP with proper jetting and a quality pipe. Stock power rating of the Yamaha Blaster engine is 16 - 17 HP. You still retain high reliability, which is very important. Even a mild clean up on the exhaust port, intake port, boost port, and transfer ports makes a big difference. So does gasket matching the base of the cylinder to the engine case. Everything you change will compliment all the other changes made (within reason). The stock head is a real power killer.

[@djmystery7235]

Will I have to get a new pipe and ports because of shaving the head? And for the jetting should I go leaner or richer

[@craigtimmons3468]

Just watched this series and a lot of good information and very good illustrations and descriptions on what you were doing. Although the mast majority of what I work on is hand held 2 cycle engines ie chainsaws and weed eaters a good bit of what you show can be used on them even though the cylinder and head are you 1 piece. Thanks for a great video.

[@Joeak74]

$82 and your head that you send me. That price includes return shipping with a tracking number.

[@alexp.3102]

Hi. You still do it?