How To Stub Out PEX Plumbing for PEX-A & PEX-B

[@libertarian1637]

This may be convenient for the first install but I prefer a dog ear elbow and brass nipple out to a threaded shut off; you can replace them easily years down the road and everything coming out oft he wall is ridged and cut safe. The PEX stubs aren’t as resilient and can be a real problem when a valve goes bad as they can not leave enough pipe to make another connection. The closes off copper stubs can be nice too as they’re hard and copper has the ability to be “repaired” more easily in the future.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I 100% agree. I would go with the 90 degree copper transition. Has a good nailing plate and all the pro’s you mentioned.

[@500goals]

This is outstanding. Thank you for sharing this technique. Ive been struggling with those stupid brackets and plastic clamps and wasted so much time trying to tighten that thread. Definitely, going this route in the future.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome. I appreciate that. I’m in the same boat. I won’t be wasting my money on those brackets anymore

[@JoDoe9]

100% agree

[@wjrobertson67]

Thanks for the tip. I am replumbing my house due to defective PEX from 2005 era. I’ve had around 8 pipe leaks in 19 years.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Dang sorry to hear about that. Is it the old pex that has like a metal sleeve inside it? I’ve seen a different PEX type material before from a home around that time and it was very difficult to work with because nothing in stores seemed to be the right fix. After some research Someone told me there was an old manufacturer of a plastic piping that was being used in home for a while but there was something that happened with leaks and they stopped putting it in home and a lot had to be completely replumbed

[@wjrobertson67]

@@FortKnoxCo it is the non metallic pex but it is a darker red and blue wasn’t available then, cold was white. It springs multiple pinhole leaks when it fails. They are finer than a spiders web. Real garbage.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@wjrobertson67 oh wow. Yeah that’s a tough situation. Having to replumb a whole house could be a bit task.

[@lrc87290]

I'll definitely use this with a bend support in the back to eliminate a fitting with pex A. Thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah. There’s a couple was to do this or maybe improve the method.

[@demordokos]

Just finished rough plumbing a 3500 sq ft home using those exact purple and white brackets. Can confirm, they seriously suck to deal with. Glad to see it wasn't all my fault. Wish I'd seen your vid 2 months ago.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Aww man I can only imagine your frustration. I installed two of them and then started trying my own way. I know mint method here isn’t “the best” but I felt like anything other than those brackets was going to save my sanity

[@rpvak]

I slightly drilled the fingers that hold the pipe, allowing me to screw the ring on afterward. The pipe is still secured to the pipe.

[@TheMixmastamike1000]

As a carpenter I am impressed with your craftsmanship brother.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I really appreciate that. Thank you

[@kennethj.jamrozyii7856]

I like that! Looks clean and looks like it works good. I have been trying to find something that works well. Thank You!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you. I agree, looks good and works well. Made this faster than trying to mess with the pre-made brackets.

[@Plumbingcrew]

I use Pex-A and do something similar. I use 1" x 4" wood and make 1 ⅜" holes for the hot and cold stub outs. Then use ½" insulator plugs to keep them snug in the stub out holes. I like it better than the hold rite brackets. Good job. 👍

[@FortKnoxCo]

I like that! I might give it a try my next build.

[@bobmohr4952]

I saw your custom setup and I wish I could have found those black plastic PEX holders. I used 1/2” suspension clamps and 2x4 drilled to accept the clamp and screwed one side, once the PEX was through the hole I used a pliers to bring the other ear to the center and screwed it in place making the PEX very secure. I absolutely love your procedure and did what I had to do to make it work for me. Thanks for the video, top notch brother.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I really appreciate all that. Yeah sometimes you just gotta be creative and make your own way. Learning to problem solve e along the way. It will be a priceless skill in the long run of DiY or building in general.

[@wilbready]

I use Pex b with the brass fittings and stainless steel crimp rings, have for over 20 years. I really admire your workmanship and explanation on using these black clamp pieces. I ordered 10 from the local Home Depot as your video played. I have a full bathroom and a laundry to plumbing in the next week so the timing is perfect. ~WilPaul

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome to hear. Happy you could find the video helpful. I’ve seen a lot of the pex B being available at most stores, but in our area, they use a lot of PEX A. The expansion over the crimp seems to be preferred by a lot of plumbers because the crimp connections have smaller internal diameters at the joints and fittings, and if you have a long run of water with several connections, it can end up reducing your water, flow and water pressure. So I’ve seen some plumbers have to come in and replace the crimp joints to get better water pressure upstairs at shower for example. Not to say anything is wrong with the other, I’ve just heard some plumbers talk about why they prefer one over the other. I never really thought about it until I started looking at the fittings and realized what they were talking about. It makes sense I guess if you have a lot of water that you need to worry about the water flow way down the line.

[@MrItalianfighter1]

The pex b connections reduce the i.d. the pex a connections retain the same inside diameter, so they have less restrictions in the flow.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@MrItalianfighter1 💯

[@SuperFunny65]

I like the idea of countersinking the fitting flanges.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Gives its a clean look and helps with keeping the fittings in place 🤙🏼

[@rogerwhiting9310]

Nice instructional video. I did my entire house with PexA...Wirsbo back then. Potable wayer and 100percent radiant through 2000sf house and concrete encased basement. LOADS of 90s and some tees...not a single leaker. All the hype of using sweeps instead of fittings for durability and flow doesnt mean a thing if you have good water pressure and flow. Keep the videos coming..I learn a lot from professionals.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I really appreciate that. And I agree, I think PEX A is the way to go. Love how simply and fast it is, but really like you said … it’s very strong and reliable.

[@bill-8794]

Uponor in cold weather is a bear. 2 leaks one project. Watts crimps and a torch to warm pipe... 😂

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@bill-8794 🤙🏼

[@AB-un2yr]

The Uponor plastic stub outs/bend supports that snap into the 18 or 24 in. Straps work great. Can rotate the Brasscraft anti-seize angle stops to minimize tension on the supply tubes. The Uponor PEX escutcheons w/ sleeve look nice for toilets and pedestal sinks. No 90’s is nicer too, less parts and failure points. Thanks for the vid.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree. Less connections is better. I used a couple copper 90 transitions for my exterior spigots and I used the plastic bend supports for a couple of the bathroom turns.

[@ohspokane]

Thank you Bryan/Brian, this is a clever & secure method. My plumber has always suggested to use as less joints as possible & I'd recommend you try the bend supports (pvc conduit or metal braces) instead of the 90 deg elbows in your video. Thanks again 🇺🇸 -OH, Spokane

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yes , the less connections or hard bends the best. From the water supply to this joint I have only 4 connections in total. I’ve bent the pipes through the ceiling, down the wall and into the pony wall. Unfortunately to make the turn inside this pony wall I’d be stretching the ability of these pipes in the limited space and angle I had to work with. So I cut my losses, literally, and just went with a hard 90 to make the final turn out. But yes I’d recommend always try to create a bend rather than cut and splice. Luckily the PEX A doesn’t reduce size at connections like PEX B does. With PEX B you really need to be careful how many joints you create.

[@DDee-mh8yy]

Real slick method. Great for RV conversions. Bravo, Dude!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@michaelflitcraft7743]

Super helpful. Worked well for me (2x4 walls are a little tighter than 2x6, but work just fine).

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice! Happy to hear this

[@davidnunn6608]

Thanks for the video. I’ve been watching videos most of the morning and this is the first video I’ve came across for water lines coming out of the wall. We are redoing our bathroom and my bride wants a hanging or shelf style sink( I’m not sure of the proper terminology). This has been a big help and now about the stub outs that is what I think I was looking for, thanks again.

[@FortKnoxCo]

No problem at all. Yeah it might be referred to as a floating sink or wall mounted sink. Or if it has any type of base a pedestal sink. If you stubbing out the wall where it is going to be visible you might want to transition to a copper stub out so it looks better. There’s a lot of ways to accomplish the task. They even make kits to cover the plastic pex pipe to sleeve it in a brushed or shiny finish of your choice

[@davidnunn6608]

@@FortKnoxCo I have planned out the build for the sink. I'm almost positive I can hide the majority of what would be visible. I want to go with the Sharkbite shutoffs so even its a little visible it shouldn't look too bad. Then comes tearing up the floor for a new floor. its a very small bathroom so should not be difficult. thanks again for the tips.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@davidnunn6608 sounds like a fun renovation

[@ralphriffle1126]

Nice idea. The method that's given the best results is. Set a 2 by 6 back in the wall to allow for a 1/2" brass drop ear 90. Use one foot of 1/2" type "L" copper solder to 90 and screw 90 to wood block. Add additional clamp to copper pipe 3" above 90. Now screw in a 6" galv. Pipe with cap. After drywall remove pipe and replace with brass nipple escussion and valve. Bee doing quality plumbing 40 years

[@FortKnoxCo]

What’s you just described is the ideal way to very good and professional set up there. Ideally it’s better practice to stub out with copper

[@steveh7108]

😅😂😅😂😅

[@darnellkramer-fitnessfound4064]

I just came back from the store with the same idea and items. Thanks for the video! I hate the other "solutions" on the market, they never hold the pipe in place proper.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I couldn’t agree with you more. Gotta try things yourself if you want something that actually works.

[@jacksprat7087]

Thank you, thank you! All my PEX will come up through the floor (house with crawl space). This will definitely help !!

[@FortKnoxCo]

No problem at all

[@JoDoe9]

THank you! Thank You! This is going to help me tons! why didnt i think of this...

[@pissedoften]

This is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't want to bring the pex up through the bottom or back of the cabinet and didn't know those securement clips existed. Very nice.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Awesome. You’re very welcome. Also look at the copper 90 transitions. They are a little bit more $ but very secure and have a screw plate attached so they are very secure in the wall. They come with a pex tip soldered to the end for you

[@aaronakers3095]

Well, as a 25 year veteran plumber I just stub out with copper. It looks great and very sturdy. Or, use a pex drop ear 90 then a brass nipple. If the stop valve goes bad on the pex stub out then there is usually no room to get another stop on to make the repair. Just saying. At least he has put hot high and cold low.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree, the copper finish looks good. I was considering transitioning to copper with their 90 stub out copper with a sweated PEX fitting on the end. A little more expensive but would be very sturdy since they also have a flange on the top nail too.

[@markploof]

Totally agree. Pex coming out of the wall is the cheesiest look there is. It’s not sturdy, they sag. Awful craftsmanship

[@ragingrevenge1]

Im a carpenter and thats how I do it pex valves are garbage. When they go bad, you are ripping drywall open to extend the pipe to put a new valve. Thats just lame

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@ragingrevenge1 yep. You have more options when dealing with copper stub outs

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

Is it really expensive when you consider the amount of money you’re saving by using PEX?

[@johnalvitre3154]

Good info, thank you. I do a lot of what you do, build complete homes so this little bit was valuable. I never liked those brackets either.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah this may not be the “best” way but it was just something I did on the fly and wanted to share. In the future I’ll probably plan ahead and do all the transitions to the 90 copper stub outs. Not too much more but a little more sturdy in the wall. Not a fan of the fancy brackets

[@JamesYale1977]

Using PEX b with some of the holdrite fasteners I had to clip off the protruding edge to get the nut to engage, worked fine after that, they clip right off with flush trim cutters

[@FortKnoxCo]

💯

[@johnflannery4815]

Looks good and will work well. There is absolutely nothing wrong with Pex A stub outs. I have had more trouble replacing old copper that develops pits and holes, especially in 1 1/2” to 2” copper lines.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree. I don’t mind PeX as a stub out . I get what people are saying as far looks n stub but I don’t really care. Looks fine to me. 🤷🏼‍♂️ and I love how easy and efficient PEX A is to work with.

[@johnnovick1643]

I like your simple way for all the reasons you stated. Makes so much more sense.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you. I appreciate that. I’m sure there’s a couple other ways to make it work. No harm in trying new methods

[@lauromunoz5683]

Very clean good job il be using this as part of my mental tool box

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you! It’s just one of many ways to work around something. I may do a more in depth video showing 3-4 main ways to stun out pex. Seems like a lot of ppl are wondering the same thing

[@johnpetrossi6406]

Was wondering about expansion and the noise of the pex drawing hot water ,,such a tight fit coming through the support! Great video thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Should t be a worry. They don’t expand and contract too much with that water temp. The PEX is very durable. And the clips are made for the material. So I’m assuming those things have been considered by the manufacturer

[@williamsolomon1307]

Excellent video brother!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you!

[@rikkicanbuild9964]

About to make the decision on how to approach the stub outs on my project, this may be the winner 🏆

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice! It’s just one way to get it done. I’ve thought of a couple other way to accomplish the task. Gotta be a little creative sometimes

[@phatboii0707]

thank you for this video ! going to do this on my new bathroom addition !

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice!! Happy I could throw some ideas out there.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Also look at the copper 90degree turns with the PeX adapter soldered on. They will work great too

[@charliegoldhorn2000]

Love the effort and efficiency, really good idea man

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you. I appreciate that

[@materialclassified]

Man, that's clean. Good job!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you !

[@bobmohr4952]

I’m DYI a bathroom in my basement looking for a way to secure hot/cold for the vanity this is fantastic I can do this. Thanks brother!😊

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome. You got this 🤙🏼

[@webcompanion]

You sir are awesome and you SOB I knew you were going to suggest the nice and fancy router to flush out those clips. No way for me, and you too.... I would do it exactly as you did. Looks great, works great, and is better than those kits!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Haha. Yeah I feel ya on that. I appreciate it man. Happy you found the video helpful 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@Matt-my7pz]

Haha lol!

[@allent555]

Great video, going to use this method in the kitchen remodel !!!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice! Its worked out well for me

[@mikemelara9591]

For sink stub outs I like drilling the hole with the 5/8” paddle bit so that the pex sits snug on the backer. And for a uniform cold line you had to add 1/2” 90. No bends!!!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah if you can avoid the extra fittings that better.

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

I think you did a great job on the execution and this is a great how to video for what it is you’re doing. You couldn’t pay me enough money to do that, I wouldn’t want my name attached to it. You are ready getting away with not having to use copper through the whole house, why are we compound in the cheapness and laziness by doing stub outs like that? There’s really no excuse for this, but you give people an inch of cheapness they want to take a mile! But I have to admit that I’m in the wrong, because whatever is cheap and fastest is the correct way in the US (in North America).

[@FortKnoxCo]

I hear what you’re saying. It’s definitely better to transition to copper on the way out. Believe it or not There are million dollar home builders running PEX but also stubbing everything out of the wall with PEX. It seems to be a standard of practice out here with some builders. I get what you’re saying, I appreciate it.

[@MikeSlonaker]

great idea. very clean

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you !

[@TParma]

Excellent work and great job. Thanks for the informative and detailed video.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@BReal2319]

Great video, short and educational.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you. 🤙🏼

[@nothankyou5524]

The use of color coated Pex was interesting. For me, it's a rabbit hole that provides tons of great reading material, as well as food for thought. Again, imo. Best wishes.

[@nothankyou5524]

​@@FortKnoxCo Color coated Pex, huh? You got big stones, man! Best wishes, sincerely. You could be "Spot On". Wouldn't be the first time ya' know?

[@JF0913]

Awesome job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍💯

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you 🤙🏼

[@PaulSanguiliano]

Been a plumber for 47 years, I listen to these new age plumbers and I could say none of them would be able to work for my company

[@FortKnoxCo]

A lot of it can be just what code is requiring or what is available or new in the area. Seems like copper is not going anywhere. Sweating pipes is a skill for sure.

[@rufogallardo7168]

😂😂😂😂

[@patrickodonnell7523]

Amen brother

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@patrickodonnell7523 💯

[@URKlewless]

And from your attitude I would not want to work for your company. 20 yrs experience speaking…

[@WillMag]

I use the copper 90 stubs and basically do the same thing. I use the the black plastic 90 makers that you rout the tubing thru every single place i can to keep water flow up. You can shoot a hole thru a 2x4 or 6 or 3/4" ply and screw the flange down. Depending on where your coming from, you may nee to make it a notch rather than a hole but. Not hard to make it work and you dont have janky plastic pipes sticking out of the wall, mine aswell just shark bite everything at that point.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree. Stubbing out copper is best practice for sure.

[@patriciarobinson3756]

Love it. Gonna use this method on my basement bathroom project. Thanks!

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome to hear!

[@KarasCyborg]

The supply house cautioned me to allow the pex pipe to flex in the wall. Any sort of rigid clamping them down will eventually result in a hole being rubbed into the pex pipe resulting in a leak. So my plan was like others said ... to stub out with copper and connect pex to the back.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good idea. Transitioning to copper would be a good practice

[@Mshiner52]

Love this technique, way better than the brackets. My only question is, is that studor vent going to be accessable?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yep, I planned to put a small access screen that allows air flow but visually covers it up. It’s set behind the dishwasher so there’s flow around the unit but just didn’t want it taking up room under the sink. They mess up the lay out of your plumbing sometimes with the garbage disposal and lining up the sink drain.

[@patrickodonnell7523]

It always amazes me that you put 50 plumbers in a room it gets done 50 different ways 😂😂😂

[@FortKnoxCo]

Haha. Yeah. There’s obviously good , better and best ways, but you can’t be so locked In and territorial over this stuff. There several factors that play into someone’s decision over product and methods used.

[@younglee4666]

Nice and accurate TTU!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you 👍🏼

[@alexc2234]

Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I am sooo doing this. 😀👍

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome! Happy I could be of help!

[@discoveryman59]

Rodents LOVE PEX!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

They say it tastes like chicken 🍗

[@seanm3226]

If rodents are eating your PEX, you don’t have a plumbing problem. Rather a rodent problem.

[@jcnme]

Great Job Brother 👏 👍🏼

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@Louie88]

The backside of the wood (the 5/8th hole) that fits snug- how’s that work with expansion ? I would think it’s a little too tight no? I read somewhere that the 1/2 inch pipe requires a 3/4 hole and a 3/4 pipe requires a 1inch hole is that not the case ? Looking to be informed not to be talked down to- I don’t know so let’s make that clear. Im not working on anything and I’m not a plumber, I’m just curious about it.

[@FortKnoxCo]

There’s two ways to approach this I guess. You don’t want the pipe to be squeezed, in general. But the pipe will naturally expand and contract slightly with big temperature swings. The PEX can withstand extreme pressure though. Like waaaaay above what code requires as a minimum. You don’t want it super snug on material like wood because with the vibrations and expansion/contraction the real concern is abrasion, you don’t want it to wear through or weaken the material. So having it sleeved in the apex clips is the next best thing since you can reduce the friction wood would cause. You also don’t want the pipe to be loose with too much space, even throughout the whole run of Pex you are required to secure it with nail down clips so the doesn’t move or swing. So there will always be some grab on the pex, the nail down clips usually are an open “C” type fitting and wouldn’t have to worry about expanding. But I think a larger hole like you said and then usually you go back and fill with the foam from a can of your choose is the most common. Anywhere I passed the pex through the top plate of a wall or through a wall and studs I would spray some foam around it to seal the cavity and secure the pipe.

[@Louie88]

@@FortKnoxCothank you for the explanation. I appreciate the time you took to make a more clear for me to understand.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@Louie88 no problem at all

[@kbplumbing3817]

what is the plumbing code in your area for air admittance valve? Should they be above the flood rim level? And do you have to put them in the wall box since they are in the wall if concealed? Does your state use ABS instead of PVC?

[@FortKnoxCo]

It’s in the wall only because it has a small screen/vent in the drywall in front of it. For access and air flow. It was just done to save a little space u see the sink. It usually needs to just be placed no less than 4” above your drain line. So usually a 4” or larger stack works. Our area uses black ABS for house plumbing and the underground as well

[@erothegardener]

Really nice tip!

[@FortKnoxCo]

🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@hectorcardenas6616]

It does look very clean. My question is, how is it going to hold anything you attach on the side?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I’m not sure what you’re referring to. Once drywall is up the ends of the two ways lines will be cut and a 1/4 turn shut off valve will be connected to the end. Same process with PEX. They connect very easily and will have no problem being supported by this set up.

[@tonyc7352]

Good video, thank you. What do you do about the appearance on the finished side and do you need to worry about UV as some say. I see there are some chromes sleeves you can add to shield from UV.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I wouldn’t stub out pex if it’s going to be outside. For my hose bibs where I have it running out the exterior wall I transitioned to copper. But for interior stub outs you don’t need to worry about it. They do have some options that sleeve over the pex and give you a metal finish of your choice. It’s cosmetic but does give you the finished look.

[@tonyc7352]

@@FortKnoxCo Thank you for the reply.

[@Spacecadet0730]

Copper pex stub out looks much better and just requires a few screws into a brace. Its also only $7. You have a more durable stubout(metal) and less fittings to fail.

[@FortKnoxCo]

In my opinion the whole point of PeX is to hopefully avoid copper fitting all together. These PeX A fittings have shown to have some of the highest rated pressure tests done before seeing any failure. And there’s no torches,solder,flux,etc. Quick, easy and no flames or copper compression fittings. Where I did transition to copper was the stub outs for the exterior hose bibs. When exposed to the weather and sunlight I’d recommend not having a PEX stub out. lol. Might not last long out here in the Vegas sun.

[@JoDoe9]

yeah PEX seems to be the way to go when you can. much much easier and i haven't had one leak on me yet

[@jonathonfrederick2062]

​@@FortKnoxCo a pex to copper stub out doesn't require any torches, solder or flux

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@jonathonfrederick2062 you are correct.

[@tonycoraccio3514]

Would you be able to make fit using the 90% metal bracket for 1/2 pex thereby alleviate use of the 90% elbow fittings?

[@FortKnoxCo]

You can. Depends on how much space you have to work with inside the wall. Usually for the 90 turns you need a 2x6 wall. I used the plastic 90 turn braces for my stub outs for the toilets in the casita and it worked well.

[@tonycoraccio3514]

Thanks for the reply ,I’m a DIY er and was thinking trying it but only have 2x4 interior wall for space

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@tonycoraccio3514 you can still stub out just may need to throw a 90 elbow or even just use one of the 90 turn braces and have it sticking out of your finis wall slightly. It will be very secure but if it’s not visible then it won’t matter if the brace holding it is sticking out a tiny bit.

[@kirkevans9177]

Great video. Thank you for making it.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome 🤙🏼

[@loft306]

I stub out with a bent copper stub and nail the nail flange to a stud with copper nails of course.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s the best way! Copper nails is fancy fancy 👌🏼

[@johnnysaltyaircrabcake8030]

great simple video...all to the point.. with no extra kids,dogs barking, loud outside noises ..LOL

[@FortKnoxCo]

I appreciate that. I tried not to waste anyone’s time

[@josuerivera9749]

What is the high measurements on the water line and draining from the floor?

[@FortKnoxCo]

16-20”. With 18” being the most common. So the water line usually around 20” and the drain between 16-18” is common. & usually the water lines and just above the stub out of the drain.

[@zesemedo1352]

Thanks 4 ur tips.❤

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome

[@chipmhandle]

Link for fla,ps goes to a butterfly style, do ya have a link for the mount clamps you dhow

[@FortKnoxCo]

At the top of the video there should be some links possibly with pictures too through KZbin. I placed the link for them there and in the video they pop up. Should take you to homedepots website to purchase I believe. That’s the most common place I’ve seen them to purchase.

[@PepinoG699]

Lol...studor vent is diabolocal. That was funny. So true

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah, I put it there just as an added measure. The pipe is vented about 4 feet across the room, but I put the Studor vent to the left just because it has airflow and a screen vent around it and sits behind one of the utilities. So it’s not fully enclosed.

[@jbh.6257]

@@FortKnoxCo it’s ok to “hide” an air admittance valve inside a wall??

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@jbh.6257 no, your supposed to have it open to air flow and not be completely encapsulated in the wall cavity. In my situation I have it sitting within the studs but there’s a screen cut out similar to an air vent that allows it to have air flow to the room. Just didn’t like it sitting under the sink. Gets in the way of the plumbing.

[@erickxiloj6673]

Hello! Is Pex_A or Pex-B being used in 2024 for new home construction? When you use these types do you always need a water manifold?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yes, I see both being used a lot more. PEX A (expansion) is the superior choice. Lots of Pros vs the cons of pex B. You don’t need a manifold for this though. It can be an option but there’s a couple trains of thought on using a manifold or running your PEX similar to how you would do your copper runs.

[@homecraftsolutions3506]

Good job of explaining a better, cheaper way. I also wish they would bring a code requirement for homes in dry, hot climates to do away with the brackets that put a curve in the pex to make a 90 degree turn. It seems like a good idea and avoids another fitting but over time this plastic dries out and a crack develops in the outside corner. I live in phoenix and have had to replace these curves with fittings.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s a good point, never thought about the dry heat weakening the stressed bends. I know less connections is usually better. But then you have stressed bends where people are trying to make it work at its limits.

[@homecraftsolutions3506]

I suppose you could heat the pex up to take the bend without so much stress, but that in itself could compromise the integrity of the plastic.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@homecraftsolutions3506 yeah exactly my thought. I wouldn’t want to use heat on these to make it move. Probably advised against somewhere in the manual

[@charliebecker2216]

Nice job I wish I saw this 5 years ago .

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you. Yeah I thought I was being fancy when I ordered the stub out brackets…. But quickly learned I had wasted my money. So I needed to try something else.

[@maddierosemusic]

No problem with the plastic 90's vs. the brass fittings? I have to do my house and not sure if the plastic ones are ok. Thanks.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah, the plastic ones were just fine. Most of the fittings that you’ll find in stores that are plastic are rated. The brass ones are nice, but obviously a lot more expensive.

[@nichitoable]

I like this tip, I will use it,but with cooper

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah. Copper is much nicer finished look

[@jayworley1583]

I like it. Looks like you stubbed in @ a 2x6 stud. Why would you not go ahead and use 90 degree tubing supports on the back side? I'm not a professional plumber, but I'd want to cut down on the number of fittings as much as possible. Just a thought.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your right. You could use a 90 turn support to eliminate the extra fitting for sure. Would be hard in a 2x4 wall

[@danielwatters5906]

Thank you! Good information.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome!

[@jayinmass]

I like this idea/way to support pex stub out, but wondering why you are using a pro vent on new construction?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I have the vent there just as an added vent. It’s a kitchen peninsula and the drain pipe has a vent about 9’ away in and adjacent wall. Should vent fine with the vent that’s in the wall down the line but added this just to do a little extra. I didn’t run a vent loop at the time the cement was poured and the ditches layout changed as I started framing everything out

[@paulbrunner72GenX]

Don't do it. Transition to a drop ear 90 with threads. Put in a threaded nipple, I use stainless myself & cap it. Easy to bleed air/ water off each branch for testing. And the MAIN reason is using threaded angle stops at each sub out. I use 1/4 turn stops. You can replace these stops many times thru the years during the life of the building. This is the absolute best solution for long term maintenance by a homeowner. Side note: the holdrite straps are difficult to slide thru by design, water hammer is a VERY REAL thing. That pipe sliding 1/32nd or 1/128th will be a problem that with all those points in the system, can turn into a serious leak at any one of them. Pipes shouldn't move, except if you put in a planned expansion loop which houses really don't need. Add water hammer arrestors at the lavatories, washer, kitchen sink, any sink. Many old timers in the trades will gladly give advice for free..... nothing better to do. New products are great but principles of engineering & practical field problems remain.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I really appreciate all the great info. I agree. There is a good , better and best way to do things. Always try to go that extra mile, even if it costs you a little bit more, could save you a huge headache and bill later.

[@thomaswayneward]

Good idea.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thanks. I thought so. There’s a lot of different way to tackle this. Just gotta be creative

[@angelisone]

so which is safer to drink water from, having cooper or plastic tubing?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Both are safe. Even when you install a filtration system or reverse osmosis there’s plenty of plastic tubing and pieces it’s all made out of that your water makes contact with. Copper has its own molecular benefits separately that is a pro when water passes through it.

[@angelisone]

@@FortKnoxCo Can't see why so many claimed that they are struggling buy bottled water & not drink tap? Thank you for replaying back & the time to post this video. What do you think about electrical tankless water heater vs electrical 50gals water heater? 1. Rheem 50 gal (leaking on bottom) needs to be replaced. So which is cheaper route to install? 2. Can I install & setup without PM on the tankless & reduce my electrical bills? Had no problem & installed the Rheem 50 gal with my daughter. We are both female & yes we have DVM/tools Should this be acceptable: Rheem RTEX-24 24kW 240V Electric Tankless Water Heater?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@angelisone I think tankless is really nice and overall can save you money on the water heating needs. As far as electric vs gas I’m only familiar with tankless gas. I just installed one myself and it’s very straight forward. I’d imagine the electric would be even easier. Running the gas and making sure that was all correct was the hardest part. Now the new tankless systems Have simpler ventilation and it’s a lot easier to install. Usually it uses schedule 40 pvc now for vent pipes which is way cheaper than the crazy high head metal vent systems. You would just need to co solder where you would vent your system. It’s like basic plumbing and connections. The electrical part just make sure you plug is on a strong enough amp/breaker. I’ve seen a lot of them only need your 120v standard.

[@logan9240]

The studor vent in the wall is diabolical work

[@FortKnoxCo]

Haha. Yeah it was a little extra precaution added last minute. There will be a small vent plate in the drywall to allow air flow. There’s a proper vent pipe about 9’ away across the kitchen

[@chadm1969]

Great instructional video, from a fellow professional.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@Ramdodge582]

that's the proguard stub out kit, it's under 7 bucks. it replaces 2 90 degree fittings, 2 bucks each and 4 rings, 0.25 each, and 2 2 supports, about 0.20 each. that's just over 5 bucks total. plus the 2x4 and most importantly the time. if your having a hard time with those just use a bend support for wood. it's under 2 bucks, no adding fittings and is way faster to install. check out holdrite item 705.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That some really good info. Sometimes it’s just fun to create. I mainly just tried this out of frustration with the other brackets.

[@kathyhathaway8823]

Great idea . Thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome

[@rukadorehosa3917]

I wanted to buy some of those clips. I couldn't find them on Amazon but came up with butter fly clips. Will they work as well?

[@FortKnoxCo]

That could work but they may stick out a little Bit. They have them at Home Depot and sometimes Lowe’s. I think I put a link for them in the video description though. Should be able to find them there

[@rukadorehosa3917]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks. I didn't see them at Lowes over the weekend and Home Depot is an hour from me. I'll try the butterfly ones but inlay them with a router. I only need to plumb one sink and a shower.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@rukadorehosa3917 sounds like it should still work. 🤙🏼

[@todbnla]

The link to amazon for the pex suspension clamps is a different style, wish that had the ones you used?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I have the exact clamps listed at the top of the video. 1/2” pex clamps. Should be a picture/link if you expand the details of the video

[@tonystafano4028]

May have already been asked but as far as flushing up for sheet rock, why not turn board around and have plastic inserts on the inside of the wall?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I guess that would be possible. But the grip on the small tabs on the inside of the plastic clips might not grab as well. May be able to push the pipes back into the wall easier will less resistance. I believe they are angled to allow to push through and give resistance on the reverse

[@jasonhaynes2990]

I wish I could post a pic in the comments, but I always use a brass drop ear( PEX type ) screw it to a wood block, then finish out with a 4” Crome stub out 1/2 MIP thread on each end ,and a quarter turn valve, do any other contractors use that method? A commercial plumber showed me how to do it that way 🤷‍♂️

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah transitioning to the copper 90 out the wall is a really good way to go. It’s very common. I do that with my exterior hose bibs. Don’t want pex sticking out the wall and sitting in the sun all day.

[@maddierosemusic]

Excellent job, thank you!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@daktusdurggery5505]

With your way, I am trying to not have joints behind the wall, how would you do this using a bend in the pex instead of a joint?

[@FortKnoxCo]

You can use the 90 bend brackets that help hold the PeX, you just need the room in the wall to be able to accommodate to the radius of the bend. Usually they only work inside a 2x6 framed wall and you will have that PEX line come down and towards one edge of the wall so it can safely bend and shoot 90 to the other side. So it takes up a lot more clearance inside the wall. But it can be done

[@daktusdurggery5505]

@@FortKnoxCo I’m in a 2x4 wall :/ thanks though

[@daktusdurggery5505]

@@FortKnoxCo otherwise I’m stuck using the bracket you have stating is difficult?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@daktusdurggery5505 in my opinion the brackets are difficult to work with. You can get it done but they are as innovative of a help as they lead you to believe. They could be designed better and more sturdy. But having a connection behind the wall isn’t such a bad thing if you have to do it. They are plenty of connections that are made within the system. Obviously the less the better. But these PEX connections are very dependable in my experience. So it’s whatever works for you and your budget. There’s many way to accomplish the task.

[@1mrsleepy1]

Thanks for the video bro!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome 🤙🏼

[@solo8820]

I only stub out in copper too. Does look like crap on finish to use PEX stops. Hold rite makes a way easier bracket/bend support. The bend support makes an easy bend not like the hard 90’s you put in. They cause turbulence and restrict flow. Colored PEX can cause pin holes but that’s another story. Pro tip. If you are stubbing out in PEX put a piece of 3/4 PEX over the stubs before you put plugs on the end so when you set finish you can cut them off and have clean pipe and not a PEX pipe that’s covered in paint,mud etc. We built 4,000 homes on a big project stubbed out in PEX and the brackets with bend supports couldn’t be easier to use. The ones you used suck that’s all. It’s not your fault but the way you did it is incredibly time consuming and uses more unnecessary fittings than you needed to.It would take me less then 30 seconds to stub out the water lines.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree with you on all of that. I just wanted to kinda show a way I made it work and thought others may find it interesting. Ive stubbed out a few other areas in this structure with the text to copper and they work great

[@Bits-of-Bytes]

What shut off valves do you prefer to use on your pex fittings?

[@FortKnoxCo]

For this area I would use the pex A 1/4 turn shut offs. Just like any other type of water faucet turn shut off but they make them with the pex fitting on the end. Other wise the also have handle shut off and any other type your used to but with a pex end to connect to all your pex types.

[@sladeoriginal]

Im installing a vintage style wall mount faucet with the mixing done in the faucet itself, mixing valve not inside the wall. Whats the best way to stub out a conversion from pex to the wall mounted faucet?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I would transition the pex to copper if possible. It will most likely work better with whatever fittings your sink and faucet have.

[@michalp2362]

Sweet!

[@FortKnoxCo]

🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@electrictonix9891]

Very nice idea,..."...done all

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@budmanzoom4441]

Fantastic!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you!

[@JO-cj2dv]

A studor vent in the wall on new construction? So who screwed up?

[@FortKnoxCo]

It was just added there as a added measure. There’s a vent across the kitchen for that drain that’s dedicated for it but because the run underground is about 6+ feet we added a stud vent. There will be airflow to the event so it won’t be locked behind the drywall. But just didn’t wanna have any drainage problems with airflow. Everything is oversized anyways so the airflow shouldn’t be a problem either way

[@JO-cj2dv]

What do you mean by extra measure? Where are you doing plumbing at? So you mean to tell me that where this job is located,you could just sweep down from your arm into your 2 inch coming out of the floor, without a vent and it would legal? Is that what you mean by extra measure? So lets delete the “extra measure” for the sake of argument. You could have your 2 inch coming out of floor, no vent, except the one 6 feet down your 2 inch run under the floor ? And since when is 2 inch considered oversized for a kitchen drain? Where are you located?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@JO-cj2dv this small county no one’s ever heard of. Weird codes. But usually like a 2” unground drain the max a vent can be away is around 5’. For 1-1/5” pipe no more than 42” away. For a 3” pipe the distance is 6’ away. Similar to a shower drain or a bathroom set up where you may run a couple lines from a sink, shower and toilet u ground and at some point near by it hits a wall to vent those lines.

[@Jiangster]

what if the drain vent is in the same stud bay?

[@FortKnoxCo]

You could use thinner wood to span across the studs. You could also use a different type of PEX clamp that had nail/screw down points. Could secure the PEX directly to the studs and not have to span across.

[@Jiangster]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks! Those are some great options!

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ no problem. Also look for a copper transition 90. They come with the PEX adapter soldered on already and a nail plate. Probably the best way to transition PEX. Secure to right to the studs and no need to cut wood or use other clamps.

[@meshedgears2794]

Not sure i like the connection inside the wall, pex is typically run from manifold to fixture without the leaky connections. Oh sure they work at first, but I wouldn't put any connection inside a wall especially a but joint if I could help it. With that said, I think i would use a PVC sweep (1") (2 bucks) and connect/glue it to the clamp that way I could use the spirit of the idea without the 90's in the wall. Humm would it make sense to add an additional clamp at the first stud? -MG

[@FortKnoxCo]

I get what you’re saying and yes the less connections the better. For some reason it’s very common out here in new construction to have the water line split off of an in line manifold type connection up in the ceiling and continue through the house. They haven’t been using the large manifold shut off blocks and doing home run water lines. I know in the past the older company who made this type of water manifold was having problems with the system. Very common to break and you would have to replace the whole manifold. Hard to find and expensive. But in general it would be best practice to transition to a copper or other type of sturdy 90 and stub out the wall with that

[@meshedgears2794]

@@FortKnoxCo I don't know, I like your idea better, seems like it provides a tuff connection with just the right amount of rigidity versus flexibility. I still think I would throw in the 1 inch PVC just to support the tube, the copper connections are just another type of 90. I think they are the best option for durability, but from a cost stand point your setup provides a good product at a reasonable price. -MG

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@meshedgears2794 I agree 👍🏼

[@johnlimke9313]

Are automatic air valves allowed in your area?? Shouldnt that valve be above flood rim level?? Just asking not criticism

[@FortKnoxCo]

I added it as an additional thing. Wasn’t needed because the vent to the sink is about 6-7’ away across the open kitchen and it’s dedicated to the main drain that runs out. But just in case there were any restraints with the ventilation I added the studor vent. A lot of the times they install it right after the P-trap at that level but it does need to be 4” above the drain line. So you’ll see a small vertical piece to accomplish that. Also it need to be accessible and have air flow.

[@steveprice5664]

Do you have a link for the plastic clamps? The link you've given isn't for a different type of support.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I have the clamps in the product links on the video. Should take you directly to it. If you see during the video or when you look at the video product links it’ll show several. They are the 1/2” grip right’s