1 Setting Easy Supports Removal | Bambu Lab P1P

[@KidHaru]

You know what's funny? I've been printing for who knows how many years now and with my bambu, I've run into issue after issue of supports fusing to my models. I wasn't looking for this video. Admittedly a little bit of ego hand waved a little bit. And then I just ran a print that previously went kind of terrible but this time with .275. and immediately I shared this video to everyone I know. Shout out to you. Because this is spot on.

[@KidHaru]

It had the perfect amount of grab. Removed just as easy. And you'd be almost hard pressed to even figure out all the different places they're actually was support with how clean it all broke away. Thank you for taking the time to make this

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@KidHaru oh bless you man, thank you for that. It took me lots of filament and fails to get that value, and I would say 0.27 - 0.275

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@KidHaru love your videos btw ! ;)

[@darrennew8211]

Another great trick, if you have one giant overhang like that, is to pause the print at the top of the supports and scribble over them with a laundry marker (aka a "Sharpie"). PLA doesn't stick to Sharpie, so if you set your support distance to zero and cover the top with sharpie (and leave no unmarked areas) it'll just fall right off when you're done. Of course, it doesn't work for every support pattern, but when you have something like an embossing that you want to print face-down, it's great.

[@jedisct1]

That's actually the best tip!

[@MikeKleinsteuber]

Thanks will give it a try

[@TheAciditty]

If using PLA use PETG as a support interface with Support/Raft interface drop down and vice versa. Lower the top z gap to .08 and set Top Interface Spacing to zero to make it solid this will make the support connection look nicer. Interface pattern concentric for rounded and rectilinear for flat. Works best with flat supported areas due to less filament changes. It comes off incredibly easy and the scaring is very minimum.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@TheAciditty I don't have the AMS, but I'll take It in consideration for when I do

[@andrewmo49]

This makes it easy to remove supports but I find that it lowers layer adhesion. Likely because the PETG doesn’t fully get out of the nozzle before putting down the next layer

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@andrewmo49 absolutely, in fact I mention to tweak the value accordingly to the filament and print itself

[@PJ-oe6eu]

​@@PixelForgeLabI wonder if its possible to set the printer to pause after its finished printing the last layer before the support interface layer allowing you to change and then pause again once it finished printing the interface layer.

[@Slydog43UTube]

I have been using 0.28 for a while and think its about perfect. Thanks for sharing, hope others can learn from it.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@Slydog43UTube nice one 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@antony2894]

A life saver!

[@federicocoassolo9347]

You can use PETG interface with 0 Z distance and 600 purge (for both pla to petg and petg to pla). A lot of purge is used to avoid the risk of poor adhesion between layers of the same material due to contamination. I recommend using the same color if possible since it can stain white, for example. Of course the AMS module is recommended but if the support is all on the same layer you can do it manually

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@federicocoassolo9347 that's a bit too complicated, but thanks

[@VespasianoNevio]

good video short and u reveal the setting right at the beginning with makes it nice to keep wATCHING...

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@VespasianoNevio thank you for watching it

[@rcrum89]

Nice video, I can't wait to give it a try.

[@duc7686]

I run my Z distance at 1.6 for a cleaner over hang. Sometimes it can be a pain to remove but a sharp putty knife makes quick work of it.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@duc7686 1.6 ???

[@boggisthecat]

@@PixelForgeLab 0.16 mm, probably.

[@mattr3194]

The best I have found so far is BVOH with 0 gap but BVOH just for the interface layer,almost all falls off anything left is water dissolvable. It's expensive but goes a mile if you leave it only on interface layer.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@mattr3194 thank you for the info 👍🏼

[@namedjasonc]

Cool set of tests, but I wish that you'd showed us the undersides of all of the overhangs so that we could see the impact of the greater z distance on the print quality where it is most pronounced.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@namedjasonc yes that's a good idea, maybe next video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@urmonatorgaming]

You can CLEARLY see the underside of each test after the supports are removed in this video. It was extremely clear, just watch again and pause!

[@ddegn]

@@urmonatorgaming Only on some of the samples. We don't get a clear view of the 0.275 sample. The 0.2 sample also goes by without a good view of the underside. A closeup view of all four samples would have made this very good video into a super great video.

[@Zenathra127]

Good Video, have you looked into the optimal z distance for a 0.2mm nozzle?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@Zenathra127 thank you ! Not yet because I don't own one, but good suggestion

[@snart]

This is great - also worth a plug for Support for PLA if you have the AMS with your Bambu printer.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@snart yeah, as soon as I get the AMS, I'll try 👍🏼

[@Scoot2Bling]

very valuable, thank you!

[@arongatt]

Works great , thanks

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@arongatt happy to hear that

[@ThatJerkFromCali]

Does this work with all support types

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@ThatJerkFromCali pretty much yeah, just do some small tests, it may varies a bit

[@s13kuminachu]

Good video thank you. Ive been experimenting with zero interface layers. If you can get the supports to run perpendicular to the first layer of the overhang they come off easy. I have a hard time removing the interface layers. Going to give this a try.

[@TheDrunkenAlcoholic]

Tree slim supports set Top Z distance to 0, also what about 0.16 optimal settings, I am wondering if we add 0.075 to this if it will also work as 0.2 settings, great video and I will be using the suggested 0.275 when using standard 0.2, I will test the others when I get a chance and see if it also works on 0.16 and see if "slim tree" supports can be changed from 0

[@JanVokas]

Dont forget about minimal step dimension for stepper motors which are mostly 0.04mm so you better round the top z distance to multiple of 0.04. In that case 0.28. The printer/steppers can't do 0.275 anyway (at least on bambulab printers).

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@JanVokas oh right, good to know ! Thank you

[@shoreydesigns3064]

super helpful video

[@oldsalty3d122]

You forgot to mention that the setting for “Independant support layer height” needs to be turned on. That allows the support layers to be printed at their own layer height. But this only works if there is no purge tower being used. If the “Independant support layer height” option is not selected, or a purge tower is being used then the support seperation distance needs to be in multiples of the set print layer height. For example, if the “independant support layer height” isn’t set, and the print has a layer layer height of .2mm the gap must be set at .2mm, or .4mm, etc. If it is set with a value that is not a multiple of the prints layer height setting then the slicer will pick a distance that is closest but a multiple of the prints layer height. For example, if you set the gap to .275, and the layer height of the print is .2mm, it will most likely choose a gap of .2mm. If you set the gapt to .35mm, then it will select a .4mm gap. Now if you have the “Independant support layer height” set, your method works like a dream.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@oldsalty3d122 oh right, thanks for the info 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@oldsalty3d122]

@@PixelForgeLabyour welcome. 🤗

[@deadbane]

Thanks for this! If I use 0,16, would the top Z distance still be the same as with 0.2?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@deadbane most likely is gonna change, because layer height is smaller, therefore need a different top Z distance

[@JohanvanAswegen-z6j]

What was the part printing layer height, 0.2?

[@yukinoryu]

yup

[@PixelForgeLab]

yes, sorry if I didn't mentioned it, I left it out because by default is 0.2

[@titusm]

I have another issue. Maybe you can suggest something. When printing with petg-hf with supports the filament looks like it's burning where the seem finishes near the supports. On the supported area the output is horrible almost like it has too much heat. When printing without supports everything is ok. And as you presented the supports loose their purpose if the distance is too high. It's almost like the heat from the support material dissipates and melts the printed part.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@titusm so sorry but I have a little nor much with those filaments, like I say in the video, every filament will have its own setting

[@titusm9837]

Thanks. Who knows where the answer is coming from. Only those who do not ask don't receive answers😊

[@Viking8888]

That's such an awesome tip! Thx.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@Viking8888 you're welcome

[@LetsPlaywithDDae]

Why does my recommended profile that I paid for have a top z of 0.16?

[@matthewprice5749]

What layer height did you choose for these parts? My understanding is that the contact z distance needs to be a multiple of the layer height or it is rounded to the nearest multiple. This could definitely be wrong as I am new to Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer but I've definitely experienced this in the past with Cura and Prusa Slicer.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@matthewprice5749 layer height was 0.2

[@Dan.T.]

It needs to be a multiple of the layer height, you’re right, but, that’s for normal supports or hybrid. For tree supports it doesn’t have to be. That’s what I found in the Bambu documentation. Hope it helps.

[@Battlewear]

are the support testers available for download to run our own tests?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@Battlewear i could share them, but I literally created them in bambu studio, two cubes, to create an overhang, very simple

[@Optikification]

Mine is default 0.2 with my Elegoo filament and they just fall off when trying to remove them.

[@PixelForgeLab]

yeah, it depends on the filament brand too

[@batcow6066]

I'll try it out!

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@batcow6066 let me know

[@batcow6066]

@PixelForgeLab It worked wonders! I recently switched to Orca Slicer, using an Ender 5 Pro. My settings were .2mm layer height with organic supports and the .275mm top Z offset. Supports came off like they weren't even there

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@batcow6066 I'm glad it worked !

[@JohanvanAswegen-z6j]

What was the main part printing layer height, 0.2?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@JohanvanAswegen-z6j 0.2 all layers

[@JohanvanAswegen-z6j]

@@PixelForgeLab Thank you for the reply, if your Layer height is 0.3 would you increase the z gap?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@JohanvanAswegen-z6j no no, the top Z distance won't change

[@rkwjunior2298]

Im new at this. Does anyone use the bambu lab support material?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@rkwjunior2298 never tried it

[@NormalSpeedGamer]

Yes, they are water soluble so just dump the print into water and all the supports will be gone, but that filament is way too expensive

[@phreakmode]

Have you tried .28? The reason I am asking is even numbers are easier to remember and calculate.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@phreakmode hi, no I haven't tried, will do 👍🏼

[@kefirr0]

Add more "Top interface layers". Then you can use smaller gap.

[@BigSteelThrill]

yep, I use 3 layers and .26

[@aarrodri]

Please show zoomed comparison of the supported structure (show don't tell) after removing support.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@aarrodri i thought I did a little bit, next time ;)

[@grahamwood3105]

sorry to say but i tried top z 0.275. but it did not come very good

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@grahamwood3105 filament type ? Was it dry ?

[@oneillam1990]

interesting. I've been using 0.16 with good results

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@oneillam1990 0.16 layer height ? Because this is not about layer height but the top Z distance

[@oneillam1990]

@@PixelForgeLab 0.16 top Z distance

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@oneillam1990 that's lower than default... Impossible for me to remove them

[@oneillam1990]

@@PixelForgeLab have you tried it though? works really well for me

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@oneillam1990 yup

[@MStoica]

The surface that was in contact with the support looks equally ugly on all 4 types :( Or at least “equally unusable”. Looks hideous, the very opposite of smooth. That’s the real problem with supports. I will eventually try special support material for the interfacing layer, really curious how much it would help with this. It should help, because you can print right onto it, as far as I’ve heard, and will still come off properly. But will it be perfect? I don’t know…

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@MStoica yes you're right, but consider this was just a test on a very small surface, all pushed to the limit and the overhang was basically 90 degrees

[@thefacelessone74]

mines at 0.08 and still no like superglue

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@thefacelessone74 that's good 👍🏼

[@rsilvers129]

I thought you were going to show something non obvious. You can turn down the hot end temp. You can turn up cooling on overhangs. You can make the line width thinner on the overhangs.

[@PixelForgeLab]

thank you for letting me know ! appreciate it

[@yukinoryu]

So it's base layer height * 1.375 0.2 * 1.375 = 0.275

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@yukinoryu what's 1.375 ?

[@Spawny3]

He's trying to ask if you can use a general multiplier based on layer height to determine the z-distance. So for 0.15 layer height, it would be 0.15*1.375=0.206 -> z distance of 0.21mm. However, it very much doubt it's a linear relationship and requires a bit of trial and error based on layer height, brand of filament, type of filament, printing speed, cooling, etc. It's just that z-heigt is an easy place to start.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@Spawny3 at the end of the day it's gonna be different in all filaments, and still, it's melted plastic ;)

[@yukinoryu]

@@Spawny3 yeah, thanks for feedback ;)

[@reflexivemedia]

I see no comment regarding the fact that a tuned filament should not need this adjustment…

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@reflexivemedia has it been tested ?

[@reflexivemedia]

@@PixelForgeLab I’m sorry, I don’t understand: has what been tested? I only meant that tuning a filament correctly (flow and pressure advance) will lead to desired results (easy to remove supports) with default settings.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@reflexivemedia yeah I got it, I mean, did you test it ? Calibrating the filament and try a test to remove supports

[@reflexivemedia]

@@PixelForgeLab yeah, never had issues, no matter the support type.

[@hotfix7387]

You went from the default of 2.0, to 2.25, to 2.75, to finally 3.0. What happened to 2.5? Did I miss something?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@hotfix7387 0.2 - 0.25 - 0.275 - 0.3

[@hotfix7387]

@@PixelForgeLab isn't that what I just typed? I was asking what happened to 2.5 if you were testing in. 25 increments.

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@hotfix7387 there is no 2.5... you mean 0.25 ?

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@hotfix7387 0.25 is the second cube setting... It's correct, check it again.

[@defdaz]

It's actually the 0.225 value that's missing haha, but it wasn't really necessary to prove the point since both 0.2 and 0.25 are still too tight.

[@thamjunyan6992]

most knows this, it's just a tradeoff between ease of removal and surface finish, nothing new here

[@PixelForgeLab]

@@thamjunyan6992 most but not everyone ;)

[@RaptorPrinter]

New to me