10 Must Have Amazon Tools and Accessories for Your Tool Box

We purchased 10 tools and accessories on Amazon to share their importance. Most of these center on electrical work and secure connections. You don't have to buy these on the Amazon giant; you can purchase these at Walmart, Auto Zone, Home Depot, or your favorite brick-and-mortar store. Let us know if you think we missed anything. #amazon #tools #shoplife #howto #diy
KastKing Braided Line Scissors: amzn.to/3xoYUYy
Wirefy Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/3VCviPn
Glark's 125pc Marine Grade Ring Terminals: amzn.to/3xAoidQ
Haisstronica 330PCS Non-Insulated Wire Connector: amzn.to/3VXTMUA
Haisstronica Crimping Tool for Non-Insulated Terminal: amzn.to/4eH2y0r
Haisstronica Non Insulated Butt Connectors Kit 220pcs: amzn.to/3ztolbK
SEEKONE Heat Gun 1800W: https: amzn.to/4eAPrOv
Hydraulic Crimping Tool 10 Tons: amzn.to/4cCV38Y
Haisstronica 240PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors Kit: amzn.to/4cwTitY
Oyviny Electrical Wire Harness Cloth Tape: amzn.to/3RKDwUp
Milwaukee Wire Stripper Pliers: acmetools.pxf.io/R5e4N2
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[@mannysr67]

Those helping hands are solid.

[@aaadamt964]

Remember when harbor freight had $5 sales on power tools? Drillmaster brand. I think they did a drill, 4" grinder, heat gun and maybe one other tool. I can't remember. Anyway, thats the heat gun i have and use it more than most people probably. I do body work for a living and use it a lot repairing bumper covers. Its probably the best $5 ive ever spent. Haha

[@jamesd5415]

I bought the hydraulic crimper a few years ago and they were were a lot cheaper, but I would pay the new price in a heartbeat if mine breaks. I highly recommend it to anyone who makes batteryy cables up, does car audio, or anything with 4g+ cable.

[@1970gregg]

I always crimp on the back side rather then on the seam

[@UGGdyno]

What I've found with seamed barrel electrical terminals is crimping on the backside sometimes opens the seam. One of the crimper jaws has a driving die (the part that pushes into the terminal, deforms the metal, and makes the crimp) the other jaw has a 'U' shaped receiver. When the driving die is jammed towards that receiver; the way the terminal deforms tries to pull the seam apart. A good demo is to crimp a non-tinned barrel on the seam, and then one from the back. The backside crimp will pull on the barrel in such a way that the seam tries to open up. It's tough to see / understand what I'm saying on a tinned barrel because the tinning usually holds the seam together. Hopefully what I'm saying makes sense!

[@joeculver6227]

Great video. I discovered the cheap Amazon solder-heatshrink butt connector all in one, and I LOVE them. If you look close, you can see the Sauter flowing pretty well and they give me enough confidence to keep using them.

[@justinvanburen8259]

Very nice list!!! I have most of that list and now going to buy the rest!!

[@offthestreetsandinthecreek7294]

Thanks for sharing

[@Ecobeastsoffroad]

I believe you’re supposed to crimp on the seem so it curls in and grabs the wire. Almost like a heart shape with a rounded bottom.

[@DanielSlack-fn3mn]

The correct way to crimp is opposite the seam. That comes from MECP, Mobile Electronics Certification Professionals. Also, when you used the hydraulic crimper you should turn the terminal so the crimp lands on the seam, not the sides.

[@cblack1863]

That tape is known as Tesa tape for factory style harnesses 👍

[@502deth]

if the seam is brazed shut, it may be ok to crimp on the seam, but as a matter of principal, ALWAYS crimp on the solid side. its how teh manufacturer lists them, therefore, it MAY be illegal depending on the codes and where/how its used.

[@Timothy-NH]

We have that same hydraulic crimper and had to use the next smaller die for the #6 cables. But dang, that thing worked awesome! With a little practice, you can get it pretty tight with one hand, to a point that you can let go and the wire won't just fall out and you can finish with both hands.

[@mannysr67]

By the way, don’t forget to insert connector and sleeve PRIOR to twisting wires together! Rarely can you slip up the back end like it was done here! 😂

[@jamesmason7124]

One piece of advice I can give you, don't use the c-frame type of hydraulic crimper for large gauge wire, I have seen those shatter, get the H-frame type with the pin.

[@2down4up]

Couldn’t agree more with literally everything you said here! I work for a high end European automaker and when it comes to wiring repairs, the only thing they allow you to use is their approved solder heat shrink ReyChem things. They use them from the factory and they’re awesome! However I have never EVER had any luck with getting a good joint out of them. I dunno how the factory does it, but no matter what, I couldn’t. They probably have a few million dollar machines that do it. Over the years I tried at least ten different heat guns and untold number of heat settings, distances, time, adapters, even the very pricey factory gun. No matter what I did I could never get a connection I was comfortable with. Same goes for all my coworkers too. So since I know how to solder and I think I’m pretty good at it, I took every single one of those solder shrink terminals and through them in the trash. I then soldered the old school way with dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink. Never ever had an issue with any repairs done like that! PS. At least in my world, there was two different types of that cloth tape. There was a tighter weave for wiring exposed to the elements, and a looser less expensive weave meant only to be used in the interior. Obviously you can use the tighter weave exterior tape in the interior but the looser weave interior tape will not last long when used on the exterior. I dunno how Amazon or other places sell it, but best to stick with just the one tighter weave and never worry about. The brand my company uses is Tesa. Damn good harness tape!

[@jacksmith2315]

I really do like the double walled heatshrink tubing where the glue seals it water tight. I also like the heatshrink connectors that does the same. Never used the solder connectors. Never had an issue with the heatshrink connectors.

[@2down4up]

@@jacksmith2315 Yeah I dunno what it is, but I’ve never had any luck with the solder shrink connectors. What heat shrink connectors are you referring to? Does it have a mechanical connection of some type?

[@jacksmith2315]

@@2down4up no there's no solder in them. Its pretty much them samething, but wo the solder. Like a combination of the double wall heatshrink tubing and an insulated crimp connector, so you get the strength of the crimp connector, and the sealing ability of the double wall heatshrink tubing all in one connector

[@2down4up]

@@jacksmith2315 Ohhhhh ok so it’s a crimp connection wrapped in double wall heat shrink?

[@jacksmith2315]

@@2down4up yes, exactly

[@rikityrik]

I may have misunderstood and you probably already know (or maybe I’m just confused, lol) but about your wire crimper you showed( second one) you can buy different crimping dyes. They slide out. I have one with 5 or 6 sets of dyes👍 Good picks.

[@louisd95714]

Thanks for the information. May I ask at what temperature you set your heat gun for the heat shrink tubing?

[@johnr5545]

Thanks god bless

[@MikeSmith-nu9wt]

Wouldnt matter if i bought them all now , when i went to use them i won't be able to find them so ill order them again 😂

[@chekelley6861]

Soooo true

[@jerrysgaragethemoneypit2028]

nice video

[@davidmcgee2126]

Pistol grip automatic wire strippers. HF had Quinn now Pittsburgh. Last 3-6 months. Lifetime warranty. Get 2. Best thing ever for 12V wiring. Snapon and other tool trucks have them with lifetime warranties too. Also need some wire stripping pliers sometimes For crimping Knipex pliers wrench. Tremendous crushing force. Smooth jaws don’t break insulation. My current 12V wire tools are southwire cutters. Knipex pliers wrench. Pittsburgh pistol grip strippers. SnapOn wire stripper cutter crimpers and Snapon torch. RV tech. Lots of 12v wiring. And southwire DC clamp multi meter The big battery lugs. Yeah the big hydraulic is nice. But even working on RVs gets used once a week. And push come to shove the Knipex will crimp large connectors, just keep working closer. One of reasons for knipex over icon. The knipex pliers wrench have just that little bit of extra opening at each position.

[@douglascrosby6536]

Get a fabric "Seam Ripper" tool for taking tape OFF wiring harnesses!!!! It's fast, EASY and Cheap....and beats the hell outta using a razor or knife!!!!

[@im2yys4u81]

I use a seat belt cutter. Works like a charm, and doubles up as a letter opener.

[@AXNJXN1]

I'm a retired USAF Tactical Fighter Mechanic. I can't say enough how the 'right' tools make the job cleaner, and simpler and ultimately properly done, so certainly job well done on this breakdown. Your comment on the in-line solder connectors is absolutely true; the risk of heating the solder connector to its potential to tearing/burning and re-exposing the wire is a true concern. Only quality connectors should be used from quality manufactures, and then still, I go over them with heat shrink just because. * My only down side 'comment' would be to caution individuals over the 'Oyviny' Electrical tape. They are NOT UL or SA certified and therefor do NOT have the same protective properties as 3M does. Just something to consider on your OWN particular setting, use and decision making.

[@Shoptoolreviews]

First off, thank you sir for your service. It is because of you that we are free. I've always been impressed with the care and methodology of aircraft mechanics and machinists; even moreso a tactical fighter mechanic. Thank you for the compliments. Great point on the Oyviny cloth tape. My point there was not to be an insulator, but only as a harness wrap to keep all the wires contained and give a more aesthetic look. Thanks again for watching and commenting.

[@AXNJXN1]

@@Shoptoolreviews Thank YOU for the immensely generous response! I 100% agree with you on your follow up point! Personally I do have a special place for that fabric tape in my collection as well, for the points you clarified. As they say, a time and place for everything - and every tool and you nailed it on that specific point. Thoroughly enjoyed the vid! Keep em’ coming!

[@eighty3boxchevy]

I deal with car audio and recently got a few of these items. That crimping tool will be my next purchase

[@iCutWaffles]

Temco is the original hydraulic crimper manufacturer. Got my boss to buy it for the shop as it was more expensive that the amazon chinese version but did such a better job, had more sized and crimped perfectly hexagonal

[@gamingwithaone6745]

Crimp on the seam is the strongest. I calibrate crimpers for my job.

[@simonlang2001]

Add a dip of non corrosive flux too each wire

[@jamesrahn8339]

I have that yellow crimper. It's trash and the sizes you have to scale down like you said. I use it regularly and suggest a higher priced one.

[@jacksmith2315]

For the ratcheting crimpers and connectors? Why do you recommend non insulated over insulated? I would think you'd get more use with insulated. Not all connections and be used with non insulated, but can be used with insulated. The insulated heatshrink connectors with the ratcheting crimpers are great. I guess you can use heatshrink tubing with non insulated if you need to, i just find the insulated connectors better, especially the heatshrink ones where the glue melts and seals them. I do have heatshrink tubing with the sealing glue, but the outside is clear so you can see everything, but i never use it because i just use the heatshrink connectors. Also, i crimp on the seam. Seems to be a better crimp. I always thought they were made to crimp on the seam. Edit: ah. I asked too soon. You did answer my question in the vid lol. I get that you can see it better, but ive never had a problem w the heatshrink connectors. They're transparent so i can see the crimp. I dont like the cheaper non heatshrink ones. You cant see the crimp, and i always felt they never gave as good as a crimp, and they arent water tight

[@adammosher1115]

If it's not coming off it's a good crimp but I would do exactly what you did with the split seam do it on the back

[@michaellindsay8934]

I always crimp on the seams, why? Because thats how I was told to do it 50 years ago, right or wrong I don't know but you couldn't separate them. That's a great list I'm going to order the little scissors.

[@javaman2883]

I prefer the non-insulated terminals too. The insulation they put on doesn't realistically protect much

[@stephanparis6887]

Coincidentally I already own all these except for the hydraulic crimper. The crimpers available at the time I needed a 0 gauge crimper were well over $150 so I went the hammer tool route. Why is the cordless heat gun so slow? I think I grew a couple additional gray hairs while watching it melt solder. Geez

[@kevinsigler6747]

I crimp on the back side

[@mannysr67]

I’ve been very disappointed with the solder sleeves. They are more of a pain than crimping, and heads up, they DON’T give you a better connection. I have them just to mix it up a bit, but crimping is pretty much the way to go.

[@user-rw7ei3jr2c]

Удивительно как американцы увидели ПГР-70

[@ChadReynoldsGarage]

Always crimp on the side without the seam. Period.

[@user-cp4mb7cc6y]

I will always crimp the backside

[@user-rw7ei3jr2c]

Смешное видео, из темы «мы познаем мир». Что в России уже давно, у них это Must Have

[@hemi08911]

Those styles of crimping tools are a waste of money. I've literally purchased 2 hydraulic crimping sets only used them 1 to 2 times and they both malfunctioned just from sitting in their cases in climate controlled storage.

[@SouthwestD313]

I've used mine sparingly over a few years and they have worked for me.

[@Mr.SuperDuper-idk]

Buncha BS

[@shelbyvaughn9397]

Please delete this video

[@christianalvarez7799]

Imagine how great your country could be if it went metric.

[@aaadamt964]

It has in automotive. What else would improve if it "went metric" and why?

[@lasersbee]

1:30.. where is the link to these large lugs ?