10 Things To Consider Before Changing Timing Belt In Honda 3.5L V6 Engine - 2010 Honda Odyssey VTEC

[@RoderickLitchford-mr5tw]

Thanks 👍 for taking your time with rookies

[@DIYWithIndi]

LOL

[@TYMWLTL]

I like that you are clear on concise. Thank you sir.

[@DIYWithIndi]

You are welcome

[@AmericanTrucker89]

Im at 114k the car runs fine did a powersteering pump change. Should i change the tensioned waterpump belt ? Car ia running good at 114k

[@DIYWithIndi]

Yes, the timing belt is due for change. You do not want to ruin the engine if that belt breaks.

[@christopherhaak9824]

I'm on my fifth Odyssey. Unless you are in some seriously extreme conditions, there is no need to change the belt prior to 150k miles. There are virtually no reported failures of the TB on any forums and every removed TB looks great. It's at most a once in a car ownership experience.

[@DIYWithIndi]

Good to know. How many years after? Usually that belt gets bad with age as well. Mine was 11 years old with close to 100k miles when the service reminder came on.

[@jasonalexander6417]

The problem is not the belt, its the tensioner. The tensioner starts to make noise prior to 150k miles.

[@koolzero007]

I have a 2013 ody with about 95,000 and I’m planning on doing timing belt this weekend. I’m hearing noises so I think my tensioner is going bad I also have some power steering fluid leaking and I got new washers for that.

[@ather1276]

I have 2017 V6 accord with 170k miles. Do i need to replace it. I usually drive highway

[@DIYWithIndi]

@@ather1276 Go with the maintenance reminder. If you bought it recently and do not know if the timing belt was replaced before, I will certainly replace it at 170k.

[@DIYWithIndi]

Watch my other video on what happens if you miss the alignment by one tooth on the camshaft pulley - kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHKWgmdpZ8aMaKM.

[@warren6172]

I live In California and have a 2007 TL type-S with the 3.5 with 50k miles. I want to do this but I don’t want to do this…What do you think?

[@warren6172]

My local mechanic buddy said to not worry about It because of the hydraulic tensioner.

[@DIYWithIndi]

@@warren6172 This is a difficult decision because of the age of the timing belt. You can defer this but keep checking for any odd rattling noises from that area.

[@warren6172]

@@DIYWithIndi thanks, I’m looking up the easiest way to get my Inspection camera in there to get a look at it. That will make me feel better to see it. Here in California the hourly cost of labor is really high to pay to have it done. Thanks for the reply

[@bethanyteti9844]

It has been 2 years since the TB replacement ,how is the asin kit holding up? any noise from the asin water pump or any of the components? Planning to buy this kit for my mdx

[@DIYWithIndi]

No issues so far with 30k miles driven after the replacement. I will recommend buying the Aisin kit - amzn.to/3CuxDBm

[@bethanyteti9844]

Thank u for the reply@@DIYWithIndi

[@michaelthomas9243]

Just did this last week. Use a 1/4 drive to remove the recessed bolt on the passenger side engine mount. Anything bigger and you will be boxed out.

[@nothingfree3524]

Have a 2007 oddessay and oil pressure sensor needed replace , couldn't find where it was located so had garage point it out , garage price was 400 dollars for part and labor bout hour , so looked up in internet EBAY ! for part and found new sensor for TEN DOLLARS ! Took out bad sensor in about one minute time and PUT in Ten dollar sensor another minute time , and WALLA ! OIL PRESSURE GREAT ! THAT WAS TWO YEARS AGO ! So bought another one to carry in glove box if need again for TEN DOLLARS ! NOT SAYING CHEAP PARTS ARE BETTER BUT IF WORKS WHY PAY REDICULIS PRICES JUST BECAUSE THEY SAY ? FOR SAME AS CHEAP PART ! DO RESEARCH FIRST ! IF CAN DO YOUR SELF AND GET SAME PART FOR LESS THEN DO YOURSELF ! IF MECHANIC CAN DO THEN WHAT YOUR PROBLEM ? FOR SIMPLE FIX !

[@susu-mi7kx]

Hello I saw your video on changing the oil and filter/selenoid.sensor from 2001 grand cherokee. I have same jeep 125k, I bought it with 61,000 miles, and never changed the trans oil, and do not know if it was ever done before I got it. I have been reading posts that it may not run and start to slip if I change it and if it has never been done. I do have code for the selenoid and sensor. I want to do this and have the parts to do so. My question is I am thinking about putting back the same oil I am going to suction out of it... and it mixed with new oil, so that it can still be thick, as that is what I have read what is keeping an old transmission shifting well. Is this okay. To reuse the old oil, with the new? please reply asap. INDI I am doing this on street parking ( help a girl out)

[@DIYWithIndi]

You can try with recycling the old oil and see if the slip goes away with new solenoid. If the trans still slips, I will suggest replacing the oil. I have replaced the trans oil on my Jeep (same year as yours) every 20-30 k miles. But I also tow a boat, so my trans gets hotter. Comment on my Jeep Transmission videos so others can help as well.

[@ReddyzFun]

Thank you for your timing belt video as well as the 10 things video; pretty helpful. I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey for which I am planning to do the TB replacement this weekend. I got the OEM parts from my local Honda dealership...never done this before..little nervous but youtube videos are my hope and strength. I will keep you guys posted. Couple questions I have is with the timing belt's TDC; 1. what do you think is the best way to ensure it's accurate without any parallax error? 2. Did you put any marks on the timing belt itself that you transferred later to the new belt? if not, what do you think about that idea? TIA

[@DIYWithIndi]

While putting the belt, start from the bottom crankshaft and go anti-clockwise to the front camshaft pulley. Then around to the rear crankshaft which is a bit problem because it will be jumping because of spring tension. There should be no slack and the teeth on the timing belt will accurately match the alignment. I did not use any marker on the belt, though I used a marker for the crankshaft pulley as it was easier to see the TDC when the bolt was on. Watch my other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHKWgmdpZ8aMaKM as I had to repeat the process. Good luck.

[@ReddyzFun]

@@DIYWithIndi Thank you Indi; successfully completed the timing belt. I have also replaced the motor mount as it had some slight cracking as a preventive measure. Also changed the oil filter housing base gasket + PCV valve and Power Steering pump. The van literally runs like new and so much quieter with pretty much all sounds eliminated.

[@richardjacques1731]

@@ReddyzFun Is your Odyssey still running good? How long did this job take you?

[@ReddyzFun]

@@richardjacques1731 Yes; it is still running like a champ super quiet and super smooth. I had a friend helping me where needed; and it took us about 2 days. We started on a Friday evening and were done by Sunday morning. We probably worked like 8 hours a day with breaks included; as we did other things along the way which were unplanned previously like motor mount, power steering pump, oil housing base gasket etc. If you haven't done anything like this before, I recommend taking it super slow and give yourself ample time and do not rush at all; and it will be a great fun and learning experience for you. End of the day the feeling of accomplishing something is priceless and the cost savings are pretty good which will give you a Segway to do lot more in the future. Few things I would like to highlight are... 1. Educate yourself; watch as many youtube videos as possible for your vehicle's model and year. Mine was 2010 Odyssey EXL; and there was an excellent video by Repair Geek link here.kzbin.info/www/bejne/haaQpmijg9OHn7s which I highly recommend for the amount of detail and picture quality. 2. Use only Honda Genuine OEM parts and order them from trusted sources. I procured most of the parts from my local Honda dealership with a Costco Auto Program's 15% off coupon. For non-stock, I ordered from Amazon like the PCV valve from a trusted 3rd party seller. 3. Take pics along the way before removing; and place them in a sequential order with no kids around. Always follow LOFI(Last Out First In). 4. Pay particular attention to the torque settings as you don't want to over do them and strip the bolts; at the same time, don't wanna under do making your car come apart :) Good Luck!!!

[@iyervikas81]

Thanks bro. I am going to do it next weekend as well on my 2011 accord which is nearing 97k miles. Did you just use all parts from the aisin kit or some other manufacturer for a few parts. I am thinking of using a unitta made in Japan timing belt and rest from aisin

[@TH-et3de]

Good advice.

[@DIYWithIndi]

Glad you think so!

[@Mazdatechsenior]

Even though Asin does make the oem parts, but why are the prices difference, I work for dealership and I get a discount. I always wonder if it’s the same quality parts as oem. I spend 1800 for timing belts parts. And water pump. Power steering pump and hoses, trans fluid, 4 oil filters, 4 p.s steering fluid. Front rotors and rear pads. 89k on it 2007. Did all the work my self. 4 hours on timing belt job. Sounds like allot of money, but at least Iknow the the Odyssey Has parts from factory, just like how we came out new.

[@DIYWithIndi]

Kudos to you for doing the work yourself. Buying from a dealer will make sure you get the oem parts, but often comes with huge mark-ups. I checked with a local Honda dealer last year and the timing belt parts were around $650 for Honda vs $190 with Asin kit. I got the power steering pump replaced by the dealer for free (service bulletin 11-039). I do not buy brake parts from dealer though I have bought fluids from dealers.

[@DIYWithIndi]

@@Mazdatechsenior I was lucky with SB-11-039, caught the issue a few days before 7 years/100,000 miles and dealer replaced for free. The issue with the steering pump is a small rubber seal that can be replaced instead. You may need to replace the power steering rack and pinion also. It is a known issue with fluid leaking there. I got Honda to cover most of the replacement cost. I got brake rotors and pads from Amazon - kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2e5dKSEfdd6rLc.

[@Mazdatechsenior]

@@DIYWithIndi yea it was leaking of the seal, my dad kept putting fluid and I assume it got too low so the whole pump took a shit. So I replaced with new one oem from Honda, new seals and new fluid.

[@roberta949]

Most mechanics who have done a lot of Honda timing belts believe the current OEM are better but not near as good as factory installed at time of purchase. This would be based on how many of the aftermarket have failed withing 35K miles as opposed to OEM. That and it is extremely hard to find a dealer who will quote both OEM and aftermarket like they used to because they get too many poor belts. Both fail considerably sooner than the factory installed. Most good Honda mechanics don't want you to replace any "original" OEM parts that came from the factory unless absolutely necessary. If you think about it an aftermarket timing belt in 2010 was about $60. That same aftermarket timing belt is still $60 so given the massive inflation over the last 15 years the only way to do this is to degrade the quality. So for the same $60 now you are getting about a $20 part in 2010. The OEM is like $150 now and is likely the 2010 $60 part equivalent. Still not factory quality.

[@nothingfree3524]

Video mentioned DON'T BUY CHEAP PARTS FROM EBAY THEN WHY HE BUY CHEAP TOOLS ? EXTRA SOCKETS BECAUSE THEY BREAK ?

[@DIYWithIndi]

Good point. I meant do not buy the cheap parts. Sockets are cheap and can be replaced, but cheap engine parts will create a lot of damage.