100K Mile Service! 2012-2015 Honda Civic

Watch & learn as I flush the antifreeze/coolant system (4x), replace the water pump, thermostat, alternator, serpentine belt, and fix the squeaky brake pads. This is a 2012 Honda Civic EX at 103,459 miles with the 1.8 L Inline-4 cylinder engine, but these steps should be similar for any Civic in the 9th generation of 2012-2015.
Other videos of me working on this Civic:
Battery replacement - • 2012-2015 Honda Civic ...
Sunroof replacement - • 2012 Honda Civic, EASY...
Tools used:
Spill-proof funnel: www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiato...
225 piece tool set: www.harborfreight.com/mechani...
Lexivon Hex bit socket set: www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Comple...
Long nose pliers: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Brake pad lubricant: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...
Parts used/replaced:
Honda OEM Water pump: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
Honda OEM Antifreeze/Coolant: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
Honda OEM Thermostat: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
Honda OEM Thermostat cover: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
Honda OEM Serpentine belt: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...
AutoZone Alternator: www.autozone.com/batteries-st...
Chapters list:
0:00 - Intro
0:13 - Coolant flush
11:41 - Engine dis-assembly
26:24 - Brake pad anti-squeak
28:17 - Thermostat replacement
37:56 - Engine re-assembly
50:02 - Work re-cap
51:16 - Coolant re-fill
52:52 - Outro
* If the video was helpful to you, give it a thumbs up. If you would like to see more DIY videos, then consider subscribing to the SuperGuyKY channel. *
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of SuperGuyKY, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. SuperGuyKY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. SuperGuyKY recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your own residence, and/or property with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of SuperGuyKY, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not SuperGuyKY.

[@danielwebster7030]

Youve given about the easiest, simplest, plain video on the 100k service and you made it look and sound enjoying. Great job. 👍

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks a bunch! Like the video & subscribe to help the channel! My goal to help empower others to do work themselves. There has been an ever-growing gap for people who have stopped learning/using trade skills to complete tasks themselves from about the past 15 to 20-ish years. My step-by-step videos are just my way of sharing what I know with those who want to learn! KZbin is a very powerful 21st Century tool to help accomplish this. And I don't just work on cars/old lawnmowers, I work on just about everything! Stay tuned to learn more skills that I've picked up being a handyman/Kentuckian all of my life.

[@JoseMartinez-cl9vt]

I’m excited when my Honda civic gets to 100,000 miles so I can watch this video again and feel good about myself taking care of my own car. Thanks for the video!

[@SuperGuyKY]

Your welcome, like/thumbs up the video to help me out! Whether you are just starting out learning how to work on your own car, a handy DIY'er, or a seasoned mechanic, my videos are meant to help everyone out. Perhaps you'll learn a trick or two that I show during my process.

[@mahdavimail]

My 2014 is at 307k km and everything is original lol I am just going to replace the engine coolant right after finishing this video. I believe that your original alternator will outlast that aftermarket alternator that you put in.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! I tend to agree that OEM components/parts usually outlast aftermarket and/or remanufactured ones (unless they are poorly designed from the OEM). The windings on the original one had begun to deteriorate (the rotor bearing sounded & felt very crusty as well), so I decided to go ahead and replace it while I had the serpentine belt off for the water pump replacement. I tested the output voltage on the original, and it was ~12.5 Volts, it should be around 13.9 - 14.5 V. Watch my video on the battery replacement to learn how to troubleshoot for that. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nISre6OOiLakmNU #KeepWrenching!

[@jessejohnson1743]

You made this video very well. Easy step by step and put a lot of effort into the video. For that you earned a subscriber

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thank you very much! My goal is to make videos to help both DIY'ers and anyone that would like to gain knowledge on how to work on anything with your hands. Stay tuned for more videos!

[@aphoenix9349]

Such a great video! Should have way more views.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks a bunch! I am trying to help both DIY'ers and those who want to learn how to do & fix things themselves everywhere. Like the video & subscribe to help the channel!

[@hamidasraoui8773]

Thank you brother for the video, I need this explanation too much for my Honda civic 2014.

[@SuperGuyKY]

You are welcome! Like the video & subscribe to help out the channel.

[@satarsafe3633]

Well done,very clear video about repairing job.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thank you very much! Like the video & subscribe to help out the channel!

[@muhammadimtiaznasir2582]

Very very helpful vedio. If someone is planning for such heavy maintenance please make sure you have complete tools and replacement part available before starting.❤

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thank you for the comment! All parts and necessary tools needed are in the video description. Like the video & subscribe to help out the channel!

[@mikebowyer2450]

What a great video. Thanks for posting this. I have definitely learned a few things. I haven't had to replace anything major on my 2012 Civic yet and it has 224,000 KM's. Hopefully it last's many more years.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Glad to hear! I hope some of the things I showed in this video help you out for any work you may do in the future. #KeepWrenching!

[@noi960]

Mulțumesc mult pentru tot! 🙋‍♂️

[@SuperGuyKY]

I think this says "Thanks alot for everything!". My reply is, you are very welcome!

[@dandrada1]

Great video!

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks! This is one of many upcoming videos of me going into detail on exactly how to perform simple car maintenance tasks.

[@m.saberhagen502]

wow and i changed my alternator 4 times myself cause they kept giving me messed up ones. i asked my uncle to help me with the tensor cause it is so hard. at the end i put a large metal tube on the wrench to have more lever force and it worked wonders. Tanks for letting that know. the thermostat and water pump has never been changed.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Glad I could help! Using a long pipe with a wrench handle inside of it is a 'trick' that all mechanics learn at some time in their tinkering journey. #KeepWrenching!

[@steveh6373]

Thanks for posting. I am older now and not that brave to attempt this on my own.

[@SuperGuyKY]

You are welcome! The step-by-step video should make it simple for anyone to complete this themselves.

[@purpledonatello]

That 8mm hex bolt is scary stuff, it was so bugging me that I decided to replace the tensioner for the heck of it. It was a fight 😤 to get it out from factory torque. I would recommend replacing bolt and using some value compound put on your hex bit because 8 bit bolt has some play. I did not torque to spec, but half of it.

[@SuperGuyKY]

It was a pain wasn't it?!? Removing the passenger front tire & fender wall made life much easier for me. I think the factory torque spec is 41 ft-lbs, that's way too tight. I torqued it to about 20-25 ft-lbs and added blue thread locker to help it stay in-place.

[@mohdibrahim1350]

Perfect😅 I would go the extra mile and replace the tensioner itself!

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! I suggested that to the new owner, but he did not want to pay for the extra part. The tensioner part # OEM from Honda for this 2012 Civic is: 31170-R0A-025. Keep wrenching!

[@KhangNguyen-sf5ok]

VERY NICCE SHOULD HAVE MORE VIEWS

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks! Remember to give it a 'thumbs up' & like the video! That helps me out on KZbin's analytics & algorithms. Subscribe to see me fix more things. New videos are coming soon!

[@user-rb3yd5fz2o]

Great write up. It’s funny because I would have probably never seized some of the bolts you glued! You’re selling but I would’ve done that dastardly tensioner and idlers while I was at it-corrosion is a thing here. Again, very informative, even if I would slightly do it different. I’m curious if the manuals have a trans filter, I suspect not being gear oil. Would love to see how they’re done.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks for the comment! The buyer did not want to pay the additional ~$150.00 for the tensioner (Honda OEM part # 31170-R0A-025), but I agree, to go ahead and replace it plus the pulley's if you already have the front of the engine taken off. I'm not sure if the manuals have a trans filter, I know that the automatics do. It is a major pain to replace it, I did not tackle that endeavor, since we were selling it. If we were going to keep it for another 100,000 miles, I would have made a video on that as well. It only costs about $35-$40, Honda OEM part # 25430-PLR-003. I usually buy my Honda parts via HondaPartsNow.com, to save from dealer prices.

[@alanonsr3942]

Oh and if I could attach a picture... When I attempted to change the alternator, the serpentine belt tensioner broke. The molded bolt head for your socket/wrench/serpentine belt tool snapped off, along with the plate on that edge. I sounded like an angry sailor. After I calmed down, I grabbed a rag and placed it between the belt and the alternator pulley and manually pulled that belt through so the rag was over the pulley, then wrestled that belt off. After that process, I googled it up and learned you apply slow steady pressure on those hydraulic tensioners. And not alot at first either, or it'll fight you. Learn from my mistake and have fun!

[@nfn4]

I did my 100K miles maintainace last week on my 2012 Civic. I replaced the tensioner, water pump, alternator, alternator belt and pully. Oops, I forgot the thermostat 😮 The car now idles like when it was new. I plan to change the starter next week, an after thought. I will change the thermostat when I do the starter.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Great work! Few people do this kind of work on their own vehicles/equipment nowadays. All of the Honda OEM part numbers are in the description to help you out. Keep up the good work!

[@RealJohnRedcorn]

325,000 on my 2012 .... Ive only ever had to change Oil, Transmission fluid, Coolant and brakes. Tires as well!

[@SuperGuyKY]

That's a whole lot of miles! I would recommend changing the thermostat & checking valve adjustment when you are that high on miles. Keep chugging along!

[@kingroll7026]

Very detail video. Great great job👍. Did battery cel pop out with autozone alternator?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there, I'm not sure what you mean by 'battery cel'? The new battery was charging at the correct amperage range with the new AutoZone alternator if that answers your question?

[@kingroll7026]

@@SuperGuyKY sometimes the battery u get a red battery that illuminates on the dash after installing autozone alternator

[@SuperGuyKY]

Ohhhh I see what you mean now. The answer is no, there was no issue with charging once I installed the AutoZone alternator. I bought the 'Duralast Gold' and not a re-manufactured one for the next owner. For whomever reading this, the red battery light that he is referring too, means that there is an issue with the car battery itself, or the charging system for re-charging the battery from the alternator. I did not have either issue.

[@jenkinsljenkinssquire9137]

The belt looked fine

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there, about every 100,000 miles is a good 'rule of thumb' for when to replace serpentine belts on cars. I already had everything off and it was requested by the new owner. So I went ahead and did it. The Honda OEM part # is 31110-R1A-A01 incase you were wondering. Thanks for watching!

[@Djmiddlekauff]

I'd like to get started on these repairs, but I don't have the money to do them all at once. Which ones would you recommend first? I already do regular oil changes and change my breaks. I've never really done any work in the engine bay other than servicing the battery and checking the fluids

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there, if you have been doing the standard engine oil & filter changes. My first question would be, when was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? Not flush, change. I don't go over that in this video, but I have A-LOT of additional footage to sort through, so it may be somewhere in there. The very simplest under the hood thing to do, is just to change the air filter. For what I do in this video, it depends on your mileage/use of your Civic, but my guess is the antifreeze/coolant flush (with or without changing the thermostat) is the first thing I would do if I were you. Just be 1000% sure that the engine/coolant system is fully cooled down (has not ran for ~10 hours) before you crack open that radiator cap. Otherwise, you'll be scalded with hot Honda antifreeze.

[@Pancho-villa666]

I would change those idler and tensioner and since you did everything else not change all the radiator hoses while you've got the rad empty .

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! If I was going to be keeping this vehicle for another 100,000 miles, yes I would have done the tensioner, pulleys, spark plugs (changed out off-camera), engine & trans mounts, tie rod bushings, etc. but since it was already sold (pending pickup from new owner and awaiting this work to be completed) the new owner and I decided that the more basic-level of 100K mile service was more appropriate.

[@Remaggib]

Will you be doing the trans fluid change in a video? I'd be stoked to see it, my 2015 Civic needs it.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! I do not do the trans fluid change in this video, that is on an upcoming one (engine oil & filter change, brake fluid flush, trans fluid change, spark plugs, I think that is it?). I have several in edit currently. The good news is that it is not difficult. Removing the air intake filter and it's plastic case makes the job really easy. I would add a few ounces of AT-205 to help re-condition the main seal against the engine also. That is what I did, it stopped the very slight leak that this Civic had before it went to it's new owner.

[@Remaggib]

@@SuperGuyKY Awesome thank you for that! My 2015 has 180k on it so now I'm toying with the idea of new water pump. Once I get the current issues ironed out that is!

[@SuperGuyKY]

Your welcome! If you are at 180k in mileage, I would recommend checking all major wear items; bushings, ball-joints, wheel bearings, starter solenoid, spark plugs, etc. Just because a component has a large amount of miles on it, does not mean that it has failed/is in need of replacing. Some last longer than others, it just depends on the stresses and loads that they are put under.

[@Mundorey]

How did you get your overflow tank to get emptied, I filled it up in the beginning and it never went down throughout the process but its filled with the distilled water?

[@SuperGuyKY]

You have to wait until the thermostat opens and all of the distilled water is moving throughout the antifreeze/cooling system. Run the vehicle for about 10-15 minutes and then pop the overflow tank cap before you open the petcock drain valve.

[@MarkTrades__]

Why did the alternator & water pump need to be replaced? I have the 2.4 in the civic si. Is that really part of the 100k service for the 1.8?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks for commenting! The alternator was reading low amps previously, so the battery died, I have a separate video of me replacing that as well. The water pump was replaced at 100k miles since it is a normal wear & tear item. This isn't part of the service schedule for the 1.8L Honda I-4, but any mechanic will recommend replacing both the water pump & thermostat at xxx,xxx miles, since as they wear, it makes it harder for the engine to keep running. Think like a runner that started running without a wind chute, then a small wind chute, and the chute just gets bigger over time. Make sense?

[@MarkTrades__]

@@SuperGuyKY ah got it yeah makes sense. Kinda like engine mounts sometimes on the 2.4l. didn't think about checking the alternator I'm gonna have to do that at least & lookup the rest for the 2.4 haha

[@royalflush9850]

I have 2012 HC I had my car siting there running because they were putting a radio. Well doing that there was water leaking in the bottom of my car do you know why? My radiator is full.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! I am guessing that your air conditioning was running while the radio was being installed, correct? in that case, the water that was leaking may have been coming from the evaporator core. A/C systems on cars are designed to let the extra moisture/water leak out.

[@royalflush9850]

@@SuperGuyKY no the car was running in park. No AC was on I step out of my car cuz I smell coolant. I look down there was water coming down from my engine. Once it cool down check the radiator and it.was full.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hmmm unless you have a leak from the water pump or the overflow tank, not sure really. How long did you let it cool down? I would let the vehicle cool for at least 12 hours to get an accurate coolant level reading.

[@splicezone]

Good video, cover most of the details beside following torque specs. FYI - I have never had to use any loctite (red or blue) on any Honda.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Thanks! On this specific video, I didn't see the need to go over torque specs. The only ones that were critical are the 8 mm for the tensioner (I think the torque from Honda is ~41 ft-lbs? Way too high), I tightened it to about 25 ft-lbs and blue Loctite on it so it could be removed in the future. And the bolts that fasten the water pump to the engine, I tightened them to about 20 ft-lbs each. Perhaps Loctite wasn't necessary, but it doesn't hurt and provides peace of mind to whoever did the job.

[@anthonypayne1782]

Why not get a new tensioner while you had it out?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there, Anthony! I performed all of this work before I sold this car, I asked the new owner & he did not want to pay the additional ~$140 for a new tensioner.

[@BW-kv9wj]

At 34:45, what is that elbow part called?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! At 34:45, the 'official' part name for that from Honda is a 'Thermostat Cover', part # 19311-R1A-A00. It was a pain getting that off & the new one on, so I wouldn't say that you 'have too' replace it as I did. Just clean the mating surfaces and re-install after you put a new thermostat in. & yes I did replace the alternator at the same time, it was reading low on Amps going back to the battery, that's why I have a video replacing the battery on this car also. Here's the link; kzbin.info/www/bejne/nISre6OOiLakmNU

[@BW-kv9wj]

@@SuperGuyKY Thank you

[@Thegoat4758]

How do you flush the reservoir?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! The overflow anti-freeze reservoir I think you mean? Once the thermostat opens up, the overflow tank gets mixed with all anti-freeze to flush the system. It is critical to wait for the thermostat to open, to fully flush the internal coolant orifices inside of the engine.

[@Thegoat4758]

@@SuperGuyKY why have I seen people use siphon tools to retract coolant from reservoir. Is that wrong?

[@SuperGuyKY]

It's not wrong. They are just getting all possible coolant out if they are not waiting for the thermostat to open. That's all. Either/or will work.

[@Thegoat4758]

@@SuperGuyKY how long does it take for thermostat to open. 15 minutes?

[@SuperGuyKY]

I would wait 15 - 20 minutes for it to open. I think I did 15 minutes in the video with the shop fan blowing (IMPORTANT if vehicle is stationary).

[@steveh6373]

I think if I did this I would have included a new belt tensioner as sods law says within short time it would start sweeking

[@SuperGuyKY]

A good idea, but this Civic was sold within a week of this work being completed. I spoke with the new owner and he did not want me to replace that. All that I completed (and more, future video HINT HERE!) was enough for him to be comfortable paying the price we negotiated. The Honda OEM part # for a new belt tensioner on this 2012 Civic 1.8L I-4 is: 31170-R0A-025. It's about $200.

[@andrewl8251]

​@@SuperGuyKY lucky guy whoever bought it

[@153eddy]

So you say always use genuine Honda parts but your alternator is after market. Why? Also you went thru all that trouble, why wouldn't you replace your belt tensioner and your coolant hoses?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there Eddy, if you read the above comments, you’ll find the answer to your questions. Please check out my other Civic videos & more are coming soon. Thanks for watching!

[@maurogallinotti3742]

Whats the code name for that motor??

[@SuperGuyKY]

HI there! I think the code for the 1.8L Inline-4 cylinder engine from Honda is, R18Z16. Stay tuned for more videos of this car upcoming!

[@maurogallinotti3742]

@@SuperGuyKY thank you sir!

[@SuperGuyKY]

Your welcome!

[@chodkowski01]

Do yourself a favor and save all the old parts in a box. My car reached an age that was near impossible to order new parts and because of a maintenance part I could no longer get I had to give up my old reliable car. It pays to save old out of date parts that are no longer available.

[@SuperGuyKY]

I agree! My dad has an El Camino that he bought new back in the 80's, and we always save the old parts when we work on it. The only place we can find any parts of it, are either eBay, or Original Parts Group.

[@scottmiller9195]

You got the coolant levels in the tank all wrong. The level mark is at the bottom of the bottle.

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! Can you show me a minute & second mark so I can figure out what you mean? I likely did something off-camera that I forgot to explain or show.

[@MichaelWilliams-yu1xj]

I did my 200,000 mile this past weekend 😭

[@SuperGuyKY]

Alright! Happy to hear that. With proper maintenance, hopefully you can get another 200,000. Keep wrenching!

[@MichaelWilliams-yu1xj]

@@SuperGuyKY I ended up doing all the things you did, plus motor and trans mounts rotors….mine has drum brakes in the rear which is stupid

[@billballoo7881]

You even lift bro?

[@lotonalau21]

star your wife in your videos, will def. boost your views 🤝

[@SuperGuyKY]

Lol perhaps one day.

[@Litto1]

Thirsty

[@alanonsr3942]

I've been told by a Honda dealer service advisor there's no transmission filter on these cars. 🤔 Is that right?

[@SuperGuyKY]

Hi there! I am not sure what 'qualified/certified/ Honda dealer service advisor told you that. as that is 100% flat wrong. Did they also try to sell you spark plugs for a diesel as well? The transmission filter is located behind the air intake boot inside of the engine bay close to the firewall. I was going to replace it, but the new owner did not think it was necessary, so I didn't. It is also quite a pain to do so. Here is the Honda OEM part # for the transmission filter; 25430-PLR-003. Here is a link to where I usually buy Honda OEM parts for cheaper than dealer prices. www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~filter~25430-plr-003.html?vin=19XFB2F8XCE052566&make=Honda&model=Civic&year=2012&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

[@alanonsr3942]

@@SuperGuyKY no need to be snarky. I was wondering about that which is why I asked. Thank you though, I appreciate you telling me where it is

[@SuperGuyKY]

Of course. My apologies as I get quite worked up when dealers tell customers one thing, when another is the case. Some have earned their reputation and I have been on the latter-end of some of those experiences.